Today I did something to my car (volume 2)

jimgoose

Voodoomelon wrote: »

Yep 3.0 V6, far from fresh though! Heard about the boot seal alright, seems fine on mine. Apparently the sunroof drains cause awful trouble too, as the lines run inside the interior between the headliner and the roof. Will do some tests over the coming days to narrow it down.

Managed to snap the dipstick in half too, the pull ring came clean off! Got it out thought with some ingenuity (a wood screw).

You can get just about anything for them from Eurojag, British Parts UK or SNG Barratt, just so you know. Is it using much oil, as a matter of interest?

Voodoomelon

Thanks for the tips. To be honest I've only driven it about 3 miles; test drove twice! Do they burn much? What's the oil spec, will do an oil change next week.

colm_mcm

I used ford spec 5w30 on mine, didn't burn any noticible amount.

cletus

cletus wrote: »

Just back from the Nct, failed on "advanced corrosion rear brake pipes".

Will jack it up in the morning and see if my car is about to piss brake fluid all over the road, or are they just dirty

Just to come back to this.

Jacked it up. Rear lines are only exposed for about three inches, then they have some sort of coating, before disappearing up behind the fuel tank.

Knocked the muck and dirt off, cleaned them down, and could only find surface rust, no sign of pitting etc.

Cleaned back to bare metal with 120 grit sandpaper, primed and gave a couple of coats of black paint.

Retest this evening. Tester gave both lines a good going over with a wire brush, came back out with a cert. Happy days for another year. Might do the same job preemptively on the front at the weekend

Voodoomelon

Back wheels came off the S-Type, new tyres needed in the morning. Also good opportunity to check the ABS sensors and see it they're causing the ABS dash light.







Looks like the rear right is gouged:



Cleaned up, might make a difference:



Left side is perfect:



Rear tyres were diabolical:



In the boot of the 7, will check out decent part worns as the Jag will rarely be driven:



The fronts...



Won't turn the car back on until the front seats are back in, don't want an airbag light.

Black_Knight

Voodoomelon wrote: »

The fronts...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v282/voodoomelon/S-Type/9_zpsdepyme00.jpg~original

Im sure there's plenty of wear left in those ball-o-****e tyres anyways

Mitch Buchannon

My 02 Seat Leon started leaking like a sieve recently. So much so that I started getting some mold on my seats. I tried using a dehumidifier but unfortunately it wasn't up to the task. Obviously this is a well known fault in Leon's & Golf's of this age so there a lots of guides online on what to do.
Yesterday I decided to strip out the carpet and underlay. It was a pain but it wasn't as big a job as I thought it was going to be. I only put the front seats back in while I try and get the other stuff dried out.
Anyway true to form , the underlay was ringing wet. The carpet is now dry but I Won't put it back until I'm sure I have the leaks sorted. The carpet will eventually be going back in but I don't know if the underlay will be any use. Does anyone know of any car underlay suppliers in Ireland or will I have to get stuff from the UK. Failing all of that , maybe a trip to Des Kelly's ??? 😀.

Hal1

A good time to lay down some sound deadening sheets. http://www.halfords.ie/technology/car-audio/stereo-fitting-accessories/vibe-sound-deadening-material-roll-32x18

blade1

Yikes!! I wonder how long that is there?
Could do with 2 new rears anyway so I ordered 2 Vredestein's to match the 2 pretty new front ones.
Also ordered rear brake discs and pads,braided lines for all around and a fuel filter!

It's never ending, isn't it:(:(

Special Circumstances

LOL, even without things stuck in it, how old is that tyre!

blade1

5 years old and still going strong......well still going!!

jimgoose

Voodoomelon wrote: »

Thanks for the tips. To be honest I've only driven it about 3 miles; test drove twice! Do they burn much? What's the oil spec, will do an oil change next week.

Castrol Magnatec 5W30 C3 here. It'll slurp around a litre every 1,500 miles. Oil capacity is 6.5l.

Diabhalta

Where i can get something like this in Cork? Or similar, but not for 20 euro a bottle. It's a polishing compound for plastics.

https://www.novuspolish.com/fine_scratch_remover.html

I am trying to polish scratches on the instrument panel I removed from the car but the trick with toothpaste isn't good enough. I want it to be shiny and like new. There are many tiny or small scratches all over it.

I want to do this:

Diabhalta

The way it should be

blade1

Some stuff arrived today!
I'm trying to resist the urge to go at the car in the afternoon as I'm just finished work and wouldn't mind taking it easy for the day.

Price of fuel filter was saucy enough at €52 so the 15% micks garage discount and free postage came in handy!

CJhaughey

blade1 wrote: »

Some stuff arrived today!
I'm trying to resist the urge to go at the car in the afternoon as I'm just finished work and wouldn't mind taking it easy for the day.

Price of fuel filter was saucy enough at €52 so the 15% micks garage discount and free postage came in handy!

52! I thought a genuine Honda one was bad at 36

blade1

CJhaughey wrote: »

52! I thought a genuine Honda one was bad at 36

Crazy alright but badly needed.:(

crasy dash

Nothing major but first time i ever changed the oil on my car didnt break anything either:D



Thanks for all the friendly advice on here lads:)






Drove the car up on timber as you can see toughest part of the change was removing the underside trays on the bloody a4:(

Final pictures just the air filter new and old

shietpilot

Jaysus, you know you've got a race car when you whip out the drill to change the air filter :P

CIP4

shietpilot wrote: »

Jaysus, you know you've got a race car when you whip out the drill to change the air filter :P

I was thinking that all the air filter I've changed I never used a drill. Fair play though crazy dash the first time is the toughest you quickly get the hang of it.

crasy dash

shietpilot wrote: »

Jaysus, you know you've got a race car when you whip out the drill to change the air filter :P

Well i had to get the dust off the drill somehow the torx screwdriver i had wasnt long enough to reach that corner so had to use it :pac:its not cause im lazy at all:D

crasy dash

CIP4 wrote: »

I was thinking that all the air filter I've changed I never used a drill. Fair play though crazy dash the first time is the toughest you quickly get the hang of it.

So true only next time ill be fine when i was doing it when i dropped the plastic under trays there was a bit of oil on the bottom of the sump.

Had a good root around from below and on top i did not notice anything obvious but i have a funny feeling its coming from a gasket on the egr valve so thats probably next to be replaced

nd

The almera put back together



Gearbox seems to be working grand and no leaks, woohoo.

Voodoomelon

The S-Type works continue.

New rubber on the back, €75 a corner. Went with Dayton, half decent reviews and a step up from the utter muck. Will do for 500 miles a year it will be driven.





Gave the rear calipers the fastest, most shoddy clean up:





Time to lift the front seats back in and connect them up so I can start it up and heat the engine oil.





Another bargain oil service kit, some €53 all in:



Oil is up to spec:



Breaker bar was the only way the bung nut was coming out:



As black as coal:







Filling up the filter:

Voodoomelon

Really and truely, awful oil. Could be 30,000+ miles on it:



Dipstick snapped off, improvise...



Of all the tools i've picked up over the years, this Aldi flashlight has to be the best:



Started her up, here are the lights that need sorting, engine and ABS. Cleaning the ABS sensor on the rear had no affect, a new one will be required.



Time to bolt down the seats again, now everything has dried out after cleaning:







All done for another day:



New slicks:



New H7 needed too, the list goes on:



Looks sharp for its age:

Noccy_Mondy

Is there a reason why trye fitters still put them dirty balancing weights on the face of wheels. Thought most put them on the inside now?

Voodoomelon

If it was my main car i'd hate that, but I don't care about the details on this one. There were already weights on the outside, so I think they just moved one and added a new one to the other.

Special Circumstances

CIP4 wrote: »

I was thinking that all the air filter I've changed I never used a drill. Fair play though crazy dash the first time is the toughest you quickly get the hang of it.

Ah you've never experienced super cheap german plastic air boxes and battery covers... lucky you!

Self tappers very handy for holding things together when plastic shenzen would be ashamed of fails!

Special Circumstances

Voodoo man, the sensible way is a second hand dipstick I spose ... but at one point I did work with a guy who had a sideline 3d printing plastic parts for cars. Mx5 dipstick were a common problem apparently... maybe a 3d printed plastic part might be a solution for considering there aren't too many jags around?

Special Circumstances

Noccy_Mondy wrote: »

Is there a reason why trye fitters still put them dirty balancing weights on the face of wheels. Thought most put them on the inside now?

Saw a 161 with weights on the outside... nasty.