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Overseeding

24

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 510 ✭✭✭agriman27


    Just wonderin did many lads on here put the minimum till chain harrow method of a full reseed into practice. Loads of ideas and chatting on this thread but nobody ever really talked about results. I'm interested to hear is it worth tryin a full reseed this way :pac:.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,422 ✭✭✭just do it


    Quote below from this Teagasc article
    What is happening at farm level?
    A recent survey of a proportion of co-op suppliers from Kerry, Connaught
    Gold and Glanbia (Creighton et al., 2011) found a number of significant
    findings from a reseeding perspective, these are listed below.
    i. Regular reseeding took place on 50% of participants farms, 25%
    reseed infrequently, 25% never reseed.
    ii. Of those reseeding, 50% of participants reseed 2-4ha/year, 20%
    <2ha/year.
    iii. 75% of participants prioritise reseeding the grazing area.
    iv. The experienced benefits of reseeding are increased
    spring/autumn DM production and improved sward quality.
    v. Autumn reseeding was the preferred time of 66% of survey
    participants, 13% in spring, the remaining 21% did a combination
    of both.
    vi. Only 50% of the participants soil test the area being reseeded.
    vii. 50% plough, 20% use minimum cultivation, 30% use a
    combination of both.
    viii. When seeding, 40% use the fertiliser spreader, 35% seed barrow.
    ix. Post emergence spray was used on 50% of farms.
    x. 85% of participants have swards affected by docks, directly linked
    to low usage of post emergence spray and timing of reseeding.
    In general the results of the survey are encouraging; the farms which are
    reseeding are experiencing good results and consider it a good investment. A
    number of key areas need to be addressed however, which is the purpose of
    the following paper.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 510 ✭✭✭agriman27


    Any results on the chain harrow method does it work well


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,422 ✭✭✭just do it


    reilig wrote: »
    I baled 8 acres of silage yesterday that I sprayed with roundup biactive a week ago. I ran the chainharrow on it twice yesterday evening and spread grass seed along with 1 bag per acre of 10-10-20 and 1 bag per acre of granulated lime. I intend to cover the whole lot with a very light coat of slurry this evening and roll it in. In the past this method has worked out great for reseeding for me. It doesn't break the sod and I find that grass grows much better on it than if I had power harrowed the top inch of soil.
    This post answers what I came looking for - timing of the steps. So for myself:
    • Day1 - spray second cut with Roundup Biactive 1 week before harvesting silage
    • Day 7 - Mow
    • Day 8 - bale
    • Then all the next steps in immediate succession
      • Chainharrow x2 in perpendicular runs
      • Spread half seed with 1bg of 10-10-20 in one direction
      • Spread other half of seed with 1bg of gran lime perpendicular to fert
      • Slurry, I'm thinking 2,000 gal/ac
      • Roll
    • All done by end of day 9/10
    Some questions:
    • I'm a bit nervous about spraying before cutting. If the weather breaks what are the shortest and longest time periods you have to work with sprayed grass?
    • If all goes according to plan how soon after seeding are you looking at grazing it? I'm looking at coordinating weaning so that they will be grazing it. Will break it into paddocks and rotate them on it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,343 ✭✭✭bob charles


    just do it wrote: »
    This post answers what I came looking for - timing of the steps. So for myself:
    • Day1 - spray second cut with Roundup Biactive 1 week before harvesting silage
    • Day 7 - Mow
    • Day 8 - bale
    • Then all the next steps in immediate succession
      • Chainharrow x2 in perpendicular runs
      • Spread half seed with 1bg of 10-10-20 in one direction
      • Spread other half of seed with 1bg of gran lime perpendicular to fert
      • Slurry, I'm thinking 2,000 gal/ac
      • Roll
    • All done by end of day 9/10
    Some questions:
    • I'm a bit nervous about spraying before cutting. If the weather breaks what are the shortest and longest time periods you have to work with sprayed grass?
    • If all goes according to plan how soon after seeding are you looking at grazing it? I'm looking at coordinating weaning so that they will be grazing it. Will break it into paddocks and rotate them on it.

    I have had the weather turn after spraying and not cut for 15 days, you will think its gone to ****e when you cut it that late, but the cattle will eat it over any other silage due to high sugars

    6 weeks?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,920 ✭✭✭freedominacup


    Muckit wrote: »
    HI JDI

    I did a full reseed that time, not just 'overseeding. I sprayed it off with roundup, then got contractor to give it a single light rub of powerharrow. Then I shook grass seed on its own with spinner, then put out 2 -2.5 bags of 10-10-20(I think)

    This year I have given overseeding a go. But wasn't going to mention it here until I seen results :D

    ..........so basically I sprayed meadow 3weeks precutting with Hi-load micram. This was to kill off all weeds (few docks, but mainly buttercups). Walked it last night and none coming in regrowth so I'm happy out.

    Silage picked up on 8 June and a few days later I gave it a run of chain harrow, then attached chain harrow to back of spinner and spread grass seed, then a bag of 0-10-20/acre. I also threw half a bag of seed into each tank and got slurry out on it. Then borrowed a neighbours roller and gave it a light roll

    It's starting to green up now, but that's the old grass. Once it comes on another bit I'I use strip wire (front and back) to move them around the field and clip it down. This should let light into the new seedling and give them the best chance. I'm thinking if it doesn't work, I can throw my hat at this overseeding lark!! The weather has been perfect for it.

    Around the time you posted this you shoud've sprayed it with roundup. You would have nailed the old grasses. Grazing won't give anything like the same results.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,060 ✭✭✭Markcheese


    Grazing after reseeding especially with light stock will keep light getting through to the newer more productive grasses and clover... Shouldn't really need to spray if ph and p and k s are about right ...

    Slava ukraini 🇺🇦



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,422 ✭✭✭just do it


    I was on a farm yesterday where the full variety of reseeding/overseeding techiques have been used, with the exception of ploughing. The best 2ac paddock was oversown earlier this year, got no spray and has been grazed every 3 weeks since. Farmer uses gran lime & slurry and is a believer in a little and often when it comes to fertilizer.
    He's used direct drill and broadcast and sees no difference in results
    • Has not rolled post seeding with no issue.
    • Has a lot of drainage done since taking over the farm 5/6 years ago prior to reseeding
    • With overseeding has maintained 3 week rotation and therefore no time lost while waiting for new seed to take
    • Worst paddock was done last spring, had to be grazed and was poached, and a cut of silage taken off it one week ago. Good grass growth but not thick


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,422 ✭✭✭just do it


    just do it wrote: »
    This post answers what I came looking for - timing of the steps. So for myself:
    • Day1 - spray second cut with Roundup Biactive 1 week before harvesting silage
    • Day 7 - Mow
    • Day 8 - bale
    • Then all the next steps in immediate succession
      • Chainharrow x2 in perpendicular runs
      • Spread half seed with 1bg of 10-10-20 in one direction
      • Spread other half of seed with 1bg of gran lime perpendicular to fert
      • Slurry, I'm thinking 2,000 gal/ac
      • Roll
    • All done by end of day 9/10

    What I've ended up doing:
    Day 0 - spray with Biactive
    Day 3-7 - bite finger and toe nails watching the weather;)
    Day 7 - mow and bale. Grass was only left on the ground a few hours as it was already dry and rain was on the horizon (drizzle started as last bale was in baler)
    Day 8&9 - disc harrow by a friend who has one. Opted to do this as the field has a lot of ridges and the 2 headlands were unmowable so it will bring all the field into the silage ground
    Day 10 (tomorrow) - power harrow
    Day 10/11 - spread seed with wagtail in two perpendicular runs, spread gran lime and 10-10-20 with wagtail. Roll.
    Day 11-12 - watery slurry at ~1500-2000gln/ac
    Day 13 - figure out how I'm going to pay for it:rolleyes:

    I've kept a 1 acre corner for reseeding with chain harrow only. I gave it a few runs on day 8 but it didn't get much of a cut in the ground. Grass still dying off so will give it another run on day 10 so will be interested to see if it cuts in better.

    So yesterday morning as I was parking up with the chain harrow a retired neighbour called in. I'd always take this man's council. He told me he reseeded years ago using no spray, a chain harrow, spread seed and spread FYM on top with great results. It was a timely visit as I felt the chain harrow hadn't done enough to open the ground for new seed. He took a look and said it would take off! Time will tell....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 510 ✭✭✭agriman27


    just do it wrote: »
    [/LIST]
    What I've ended up doing:
    Day 0 - spray with Biactive
    Day 3-7 - bite finger and toe nails watching the weather;)
    Day 7 - mow and bale. Grass was only left on the ground a few hours as it was already dry and rain was on the horizon (drizzle started as last bale was in baler)
    Day 8&9 - disc harrow by a friend who has one. Opted to do this as the field has a lot of ridges and the 2 headlands were unmowable so it will bring all the field into the silage ground
    Day 10 (tomorrow) - power harrow
    Day 10/11 - spread seed with wagtail in two perpendicular runs, spread gran lime and 10-10-20 with wagtail. Roll.
    Day 11-12 - watery slurry at ~1500-2000gln/ac
    Day 13 - figure out how I'm going to pay for it:rolleyes:
    O
    I've kept a 1 acre corner for reseeding with chain harrow only. I gave it a few runs on day 8 but it didn't get much of a cut in the ground. Grass still dying off so will give it another run on day 10 so will be interested to see if it cuts in better.

    So yesterday morning as I was parking up with the chain harrow a retired neighbour called in. I'd always take this man's council. He told me he reseeded years ago using no spray, a chain harrow, spread seed and spread FYM on top with great results. It was a timely visit as I felt the chain harrow hadn't done enough to open the ground for new seed. He took a look and said it would take off! Time will tell....

    I've been waiting for someone to test out these methods for a long time :D I for one will look forward to the results! I was hoping to get some new seed in myself but can't get it arranged at the minute.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,401 ✭✭✭reilig


    just do it wrote: »
    [/LIST]
    What I've ended up doing:
    Day 0 - spray with Biactive
    Day 3-7 - bite finger and toe nails watching the weather;)
    Day 7 - mow and bale. Grass was only left on the ground a few hours as it was already dry and rain was on the horizon (drizzle started as last bale was in baler)
    Day 8&9 - disc harrow by a friend who has one. Opted to do this as the field has a lot of ridges and the 2 headlands were unmowable so it will bring all the field into the silage ground
    Day 10 (tomorrow) - power harrow
    Day 10/11 - spread seed with wagtail in two perpendicular runs, spread gran lime and 10-10-20 with wagtail. Roll.
    Day 11-12 - watery slurry at ~1500-2000gln/ac
    Day 13 - figure out how I'm going to pay for it:rolleyes:

    I've kept a 1 acre corner for reseeding with chain harrow only. I gave it a few runs on day 8 but it didn't get much of a cut in the ground. Grass still dying off so will give it another run on day 10 so will be interested to see if it cuts in better.

    So yesterday morning as I was parking up with the chain harrow a retired neighbour called in. I'd always take this man's council. He told me he reseeded years ago using no spray, a chain harrow, spread seed and spread FYM on top with great results. It was a timely visit as I felt the chain harrow hadn't done enough to open the ground for new seed. He took a look and said it would take off! Time will tell....

    I think that using a power harrow after all that you have done above is overkill unless you need to loosen soil to fill humps and hollows - but I haven't seen you mention land leveller so I assume you 're not. Have no doubt that the area rubbed with the chain harrow will do really well. have tried and tested it with no problems. Watery slurry is the key and a very light coat!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,701 ✭✭✭moy83


    reilig wrote: »
    I think that using a power harrow after all that you have done above is overkill unless you need to loosen soil to fill humps and hollows - but I haven't seen you mention land leveller so I assume you 're not. Have no doubt that the area rubbed with the chain harrow will do really well. have tried and tested it with no problems. Watery slurry is the key and a very light coat!

    With the chain harow and slurry , do you harrow it before or after spreading the slurry . Or a run before and after ?
    If I lashed out a heavy coat of slurry and chain harrowed the crap out of it after to break it up would the seed take or still get smothered with the heavy slurry


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,401 ✭✭✭reilig


    moy83 wrote: »
    With the chain harow and slurry , do you harrow it before or after spreading the slurry . Or a run before and after ?
    If I lashed out a heavy coat of slurry and chain harrowed the crap out of it after to break it up would the seed take or still get smothered with the heavy slurry

    Harrow first. Then seed, fertilizer and lime. Then roll. Then thin slurry. If slurry is too thick it will crust and grass may not grow. That's what I do, but I don't think there is a set rule.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,701 ✭✭✭moy83


    reilig wrote: »
    Harrow first. Then seed, fertilizer and lime. Then roll. Then thin slurry. If slurry is too thick it will crust and grass may not grow. That's what I do, but I don't think there is a set rule.
    Thanks reilig . I have 7 or 8 acres for reseeding and the lad next door has a 4 bay tank full of slurry that he would like to be rid of before the winter . Thats why Im thinking of liberaly applying the slurry but if its no addition I probably wont bother .
    I might just dose it with slurry and lime a little while after and leave the reseeding until spring altogether either .


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 53 ✭✭arais


    not a fan of putting slurry either watery or otherwise on top of grass seeds.. maybe if you have heavy peaty soil might be ok

    for a good seed bed, you need the seeds to root downwards, slurry attracts them up wards


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,326 ✭✭✭Farmer Pudsey


    would be careful using this method this year if you get a dry spell after spreading slurry grass will germinate and die. Used it last year myself worked perfectly. However this was a field that was being reseeded after a hybrid and there was little or no skin on it.

    If it works it is a cheap way of reseeding.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,574 ✭✭✭dharn


    I have justs stitched in 3 acres with guttler machine, 10 days after spraying ground very hard and very dry topped it after 5 days and let cattle in to graze toppings, but a lot of chaff left, 2 bags of gran lime per acre applied and 2 bags 10 10 20 applied thinking of puttingsome thin slurry on it, any opinions on when would be the best time to do this , tomorrow or when the seed has sprouted


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,326 ✭✭✭Farmer Pudsey


    dharn wrote: »
    I have justs stitched in 3 acres with guttler machine, 10 days after spraying ground very hard and very dry topped it after 5 days and let cattle in to graze toppings, but a lot of chaff left, 2 bags of gran lime per acre applied and 2 bags 10 10 20 applied thinking of puttingsome thin slurry on it, any opinions on when would be the best time to do this , tomorrow or when the seed has sprouted

    I would not put thin slurry on it all you are addind is nitrogen it has plenty at present. Have you or wgo ever stitched it put on slug pellets. If not put on slug pellets.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,574 ✭✭✭dharn


    I would not put thin slurry on it all you are addind is nitrogen it has plenty at present. Have you or wgo ever stitched it put on slug pellets. If not put on slug pellets.

    Thanks pudsey, no slug pellets used, would the amount needed be very expensive, never heard of using slug pellets on grass reseeding before


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,326 ✭✭✭Farmer Pudsey


    dharn wrote: »
    Thanks pudsey, no slug pellets used, would the amount needed be very expensive, never heard of using slug pellets on grass reseeding before

    No with normal reseeding however with stitching they are required not sure of the amount I think Bob and Delavel do it a bit one of them might tell you of the amount


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,343 ✭✭✭bob charles


    No with normal reseeding however with stitching they are required not sure of the amount I think Bob and Delavel do it a bit one of them might tell you of the amount

    put on a kilo at drilling and keep your eyes open. *Think* 15kgs is around 100quid or draza/metarex


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 871 ✭✭✭severeoversteer


    dharn wrote: »
    I have justs stitched in 3 acres with guttler machine, 10 days after spraying ground very hard and very dry topped it after 5 days and let cattle in to graze toppings, but a lot of chaff left, 2 bags of gran lime per acre applied and 2 bags 10 10 20 applied thinking of puttingsome thin slurry on it, any opinions on when would be the best time to do this , tomorrow or when the seed has sprouted


    what contractor did you use? pm me if you wish


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,949 ✭✭✭delaval


    put on a kilo at drilling and keep your eyes open. *Think* 15kgs is around 100quid or draza/metarex

    1 kg/Acre at drilling. Don't know for broadcasting.

    Reseed without pellets at your peril.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,558 ✭✭✭MfMan


    Cutting a field of aftergrass towards the end of September. Is it too late then to attempt a reseed of the field? Would rape be better until Spring?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 47 yupyupyup


    We swapped out rotavator this summer for a spiked rotavator as we felt the standard rotavator was creating a 'pan' in the soil if you like and inhibiting drainage, anyone have experience of this?
    The spiked rotavator did a good job tilling and seemed to burn less diesel(although we had it burned off for 3.5 weeks so it was very tender) but our big problem was it seems to have left huge amounts of scraw on top, when we ran the chain harrow over it to cover the seed it literally dragged mounds of scraw, very frustrating. Is there anything we could have done differently?
    Is it advisable to spread bagged lime on it also? it's only 2 acres so we ain't gonna be getting someone in with a lime spreader for that little bit

    Also I'm curious about sowing in rape on about 2 acres of extremely peaty(practiaclly bog) land that Im gonna reseed next yr hopefully, is it too late to put in the rape now?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,326 ✭✭✭Farmer Pudsey


    yupyupyup wrote: »
    We swapped out rotavator this summer for a spiked rotavator as we felt the standard rotavator was creating a 'pan' in the soil if you like and inhibiting drainage, anyone have experience of this?
    The spiked rotavator did a good job tilling and seemed to burn less diesel(although we had it burned off for 3.5 weeks so it was very tender) but our big problem was it seems to have left huge amounts of scraw on top, when we ran the chain harrow over it to cover the seed it literally dragged mounds of scraw, very frustrating. Is there anything we could have done differently?
    Is it advisable to spread bagged lime on it also? it's only 2 acres so we ain't gonna be getting someone in with a lime spreader for that little bit

    Also I'm curious about sowing in rape on about 2 acres of extremely peaty(practiaclly bog) land that Im gonna reseed next yr hopefully, is it too late to put in the rape now?

    If there is a scraw I would use 1-2 bags of granlime/g-lime to make sure it will not effect the germinating grass seed. Be careful as well as crows will lift scraws try to get the loan of a banger or use a scare crow( high vis vest and pair of overalls works well on a cross.

    No not too late to plant rape am considering putting 0.5kgs/acre in a field I am reseeding. Have it left over from a few years ago.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 47 yupyupyup


    what does the lime do to the scraw? the seed is sown about a week now is it too late to put the lime on?

    are you putting the rape in as a catch crop with grass or on its own?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,574 ✭✭✭dharn


    Lime neutralises the rotting scraw as this is acidic, so it protects the emerging grass, so id say you could still put on the gran lime


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,326 ✭✭✭Farmer Pudsey


    yupyupyup wrote: »
    what does the lime do to the scraw? the seed is sown about a week now is it too late to put the lime on?

    are you putting the rape in as a catch crop with grass or on its own?

    I am putting in the rape seed as I have it left over I am hoping to bulk up the first grazing in 5-7 weeks time. I would still put in the lime asap.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,523 ✭✭✭Sami23


    dharn wrote: »
    Lime neutralises the rotting scraw as this is acidic, so it protects the emerging grass, so id say you could still put on the gran lime

    If soil pH is on the high side (7) would ye still use lime when reseeding ?


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