Overseeding

Muckit

What to lads think? Have you done this/similiar before......?

I've 7 acres of aftergrass mowed this morning for baled silage (baling sat) and I'm thinking of moving straight in afterwards and overseeding it (with grass seed). I just don't want the hassle or expense of a full reseed. The sward is very open and weedy, so I'd like the benefit of cheap fresh grass.

My plan is once bales removed, to run the grass harrow on it, then use seed barrow to put on a bag of grass seed/acre, then roll it. I'm going to lay off putting on fertilizer until I see the crop emerge as I don't want the old grass to take over (ideally I should have prob burnt it off, but no point talkin about that now!!)

I'I put on a few bags of 10 10 20 in about 3-4weeks (end sept)

Does this sound like a plan? Any other help/suggestions appreciated.

nilhg

Well you can't make things any much worse, the grass harrow won't do much damage to the old swarth, the biggest problem is that the old grass will out compete the new seeds, you'd need to keep it grazed very tight but be careful of poaching.

Muckit

Wel that's what i was thinking, for the price of the seed (it was €30/bag there last spring, I hope it's still the same!) and the tonne of manure, I'd have the field looking not half bad.

As you say, I'd want to avoid poaching it, that'I all depend what way the weather is when it comes to grazing it!:rolleyes:

reilig

I baled 8 acres of silage yesterday that I sprayed with roundup biactive a week ago. I ran the chainharrow on it twice yesterday evening and spread grass seed along with 1 bag per acre of 10-10-20 and 1 bag per acre of granulated lime. I intend to cover the whole lot with a very light coat of slurry this evening and roll it in. In the past this method has worked out great for reseeding for me. It doesn't break the sod and I find that grass grows much better on it than if I had power harrowed the top inch of soil.

I would recommend spraying - especially when you have already cut the silage. It will be dead in a few days and you can then come in and harrow and seed it. It will prevent the old grass from smothering the new grass. A bit of lime will ensure that fewer crofot or weed grows.

Tipp Man

Muckit wrote: »

What to lads think? Have you done this/similiar before......?

I've 7 acres of aftergrass mowed this morning for baled silage (baling sat) and I'm thinking of moving straight in afterwards and overseeding it (with grass seed). I just don't want the hassle or expense of a full reseed. The sward is very open and weedy, so I'd like the benefit of cheap fresh grass.

My plan is once bales removed, to run the grass harrow on it, then use seed barrow to put on a bag of grass seed/acre, then roll it. I'm going to lay off putting on fertilizer until I see the crop emerge as I don't want the old grass to take over (ideally I should have prob burnt it off, but no point talkin about that now!!)

I'I put on a few bags of 10 10 20 in about 3-4weeks (end sept)

Does this sound like a plan? Any other help/suggestions appreciated.

How you going to get rid of the weeds without a spray?

Or am i missing something?

Muckit

reilig wrote: »

I baled 8 acres of silage yesterday that I sprayed with roundup biactive a week ago. I ran the chainharrow on it twice yesterday evening and spread grass seed along with 1 bag per acre of 10-10-20 and 1 bag per acre of granulated lime. I intend to cover the whole lot with a very light coat of slurry this evening and roll it in. In the past this method has worked out great for reseeding for me. It doesn't break the sod and I find that grass grows much better on it than if I had power harrowed the top inch of soil.

I would recommend spraying - especially when you have already cut the silage. It will be dead in a few days and you can then come in and harrow and seed it. It will prevent the old grass from smothering the new grass. A bit of lime will ensure that fewer crofot or weed grows.

Hi Reilig,

Did you spread the seed in the fert together with the fert and lime? If so, did you keep tight with your tramlines or just the same as if you were spreading fert only? I've never used this method for a large area before only to patch bits of poached ground. I'd be anxious that it wouldn't come out even, that's why I was thinking of using seed barrow. But if it worked, I might chance it.

I've only a small 8cwt single spinner, maybe you use a wagtail or a bigger double spinner, I'd say they are more accurate.

Also re spraying, won't I have to wait until regrowth comes to spray off? Will it have much affect on stubble? I would be aofraid then of it being too late and frost arriving!:mad:

Muckit

Tipp Man wrote: »

How you going to get rid of the weeds without a spray?

Or am i missing something?

It's a crop of aftergrass that never got any fert and only a light spread on first cut. I'm reckoning because it's got two cuts and because of the time of the year, that the weeds won't grow too much before the grass seed comes. If they do come, I was planning of putting stock in to bare it tight.

Maybe I've it all wrong and this plan isn't a runner?:rolleyes:

reilig

I spread it with a wagtail the other day. Went over the whole lot of it twice in different directions. Mixed half the seed with the fertilizer first and spread it and then mixed the other half of the seed with the lime and spread it. i don't think I missed any ground. I've spread seed mixed with fertilizer in the past with a small spinner like you have and it came out perfect. The secret is to put it on very light and go over it twice. The first time I ever seeded, i used the seed barrow, set it at the recommended setting (3 match sticks wide I think). Put 3 acre packs into and there was still seed in it after I had 6 acres covered. Its a slow process and I had no intention of going over it again with the seeder so i just mixed the seed with the fertilizer and finished the rest with the spreader. It worked perfect.

As for spraying, stubble is ideal for spraying. You'll get a fast kill and you won't need to clean it off before you harrow it. I recommend the Roundup Biactive for a faster kill - even though it is more expensive than other glyphos products. If you sprayed today, you could harrow it a few times over the weekend and be ready to seed by wednesday next week. its promised good until then anyway. Frost won't have a big impact on grass until december. if you get it sown and it gets established, then it will be safe.

Muckit wrote: »

Hi Reilig,

Did you spread the seed in the fert together with the fert and lime? If so, did you keep tight with your tramlines or just the same as if you were spreading fert only? I've never used this method for a large area before only to patch bits of poached ground. I'd be anxious that it wouldn't come out even, that's why I was thinking of using seed barrow. But if it worked, I might chance it.

I've only a small 8cwt single spinner, maybe you use a wagtail or a bigger double spinner, I'd say they are more accurate.

Also re spraying, won't I have to wait until regrowth comes to spray off? Will it have much affect on stubble? I would be aofraid then of it being too late and frost arriving!:mad:

5live

Muckit wrote: »

What to lads think? Have you done this/similiar before......?

I've 7 acres of aftergrass mowed this morning for baled silage (baling sat) and I'm thinking of moving straight in afterwards and overseeding it (with grass seed). I just don't want the hassle or expense of a full reseed. The sward is very open and weedy, so I'd like the benefit of cheap fresh grass.

My plan is once bales removed, to run the grass harrow on it, then use seed barrow to put on a bag of grass seed/acre, then roll it. I'm going to lay off putting on fertilizer until I see the crop emerge as I don't want the old grass to take over (ideally I should have prob burnt it off, but no point talkin about that now!!)

I'I put on a few bags of 10 10 20 in about 3-4weeks (end sept)

Does this sound like a plan? Any other help/suggestions appreciated.

Just watch the old nitrates regulations. All N and P out before 15th sept and 31st aug for REPS3. Might better wait for weekend at end of sept;)

Muckit

reilig wrote: »

I baled 8 acres of silage yesterday that I sprayed with roundup biactive a week ago. I ran the chainharrow on it twice yesterday evening and spread grass seed along with 1 bag per acre of 10-10-20 and 1 bag per acre of granulated lime. I intend to cover the whole lot with a very light coat of slurry this evening and roll it in. In the past this method has worked out great for reseeding for me. It doesn't break the sod and I find that grass grows much better on it than if I had power harrowed the top inch of soil.

I would recommend spraying - especially when you have already cut the silage. It will be dead in a few days and you can then come in and harrow and seed it. It will prevent the old grass from smothering the new grass. A bit of lime will ensure that fewer crofot or weed grows.

I changed from my original plan and sprayed off like you suggested with roundup. (4L roundup/200L water to cover 2acres) It was kinda niggling in the back of my mind to do it anyway:rolleyes: No point being penny wise and pound foolish. It would only have bugged the sh1t out of me if it came out covered in weeds.

I got the loan of a single leg subsoiler from a neighbour and did the lot yesterday before spraying off today, which as it happens, worked out brilliant when it came to spraying as I could follow slits left by subsoiler I couldn't imagine trying to burn off without having them as a guide.

I look into the gran lime too. Lad at co op suggested not to spread seed with the lime as it might damage it ?! Any which way, I'I just spread the seed with the 10 10 20 and leave gran lime until 3-4 weeks time or might put off until spring altogether, from what I've read on gouldings website I think it has thesoil has the best uptake then;)

John_F

was there green in the field when you sprayed?

Muckit

Ya it was cut 6.5 days before I sprayed so it was well green (Cut it last Thurs morning, sprayed following Wed afternoon(Yesterday). Regrowth with the fine weather has been very good.

I'm hoping that by Saturday week(12Sept) it'I be well 'burnt off'. I'I chain harrow the hell out of it then. I'h hoping I'I get enough of a tilt in the soil to sow the seed by just this alone. If not I'I get a contractor to power harrow, but hoping to get away with not power harrowing if possible as I feel it'I stop spread of docks by not disturbing existing roots.

I've never min tilled before so it's trial and error. There's only one way to find out if something works or not and that's trying it out for yourself:rolleyes:

sea12

reilig wrote: »

I spread it with a wagtail the other day. Went over the whole lot of it twice in different directions. Mixed half the seed with the fertilizer first and spread it and then mixed the other half of the seed with the lime and spread it. i don't think I missed any ground. I've spread seed mixed with fertilizer in the past with a small spinner like you have and it came out perfect. The secret is to put it on very light and go over it twice. The first time I ever seeded, i used the seed barrow, set it at the recommended setting (3 match sticks wide I think). Put 3 acre packs into and there was still seed in it after I had 6 acres covered. Its a slow process and I had no intention of going over it again with the seeder so i just mixed the seed with the fertilizer and finished the rest with the spreader. It worked perfect.

As for spraying, stubble is ideal for spraying. You'll get a fast kill and you won't need to clean it off before you harrow it. I recommend the Roundup Biactive for a faster kill - even though it is more expensive than other glyphos products. If you sprayed today, you could harrow it a few times over the weekend and be ready to seed by wednesday next week. its promised good until then anyway. Frost won't have a big impact on grass until december. if you get it sown and it gets established, then it will be safe.

Dont think He would get it would be ready that quick rellig. Even though I suspose it is aftergrass and would burn off quicker.

I got a couple of acres sprayed off last thursday and it is only starting to buen today. It was an old sward and it probably needed a a couple of days between grazing and spraying.

I am raging as had lad booked into spray it 2 weeks earlier but he never came until last thursday. Definately getting my own sprayer next year. Fed up trying to get people to do Jobs like this. never come on time when the time is just right. I could have the seed in this week now in perfect conditions if it had went to plan.

As it is next week is meant to be a very wet week. So it will be the following week by the looks of things and it is starting to get a bit on the late side.

reilig

sea12 wrote: »

Dont think He would get it would be ready that quick rellig.

I posted that over a week ago

sea12

reilig wrote: »

I posted that over a week ago

I'm like my sprayer man, A bit Late!!!

Muckit

Hey

Came across this article on reseeding, some good pointers.......;)

http://www.independent.ie/farming/news-features/savings-to-be-made-in-grass-reseeding-1700669.html

reilig

Muckit wrote: »

Hey

Came across this article on reseeding, some good pointers.......;)

http://www.independent.ie/farming/news-features/savings-to-be-made-in-grass-reseeding-1700669.html

There was an article in last week's journal that looked at min till machines. To be honest the principal is all the same as what you and I are doing. Perhaps even the chain harrow is a better job than the tynes on the machines that they are using and do you really think that an electric seed spreader will spread seed better or more accurately than a fertilizer spreader. I don't think so. Our way of reseeding may not be pretty, but it does the same job as these machines - and we havent't spent 10 grand on the machinery

The article even said that overseedng is a good job (without spraying)

Sam Kade

Muckit wrote: »

Hey

Came across this article on reseeding, some good pointers.......;)

http://www.independent.ie/farming/news-features/savings-to-be-made-in-grass-reseeding-1700669.html

Interesting. If you reseeded with a nurse crop in the spring 4 to 5 stone of oats/ac you could be grazing it 4/5 weeks after.

Muckit

reilig wrote: »

There was an article in last week's journal that looked at min till machines. To be honest the principal is all the same as what you and I are doing. Perhaps even the chain harrow is a better job than the tynes on the machines that they are using and do you really think that an electric seed spreader will spread seed better or more accurately than a fertilizer spreader. I don't think so. Our way of reseeding may not be pretty, but it does the same job as these machines - and we havent't spent 10 grand on the machinery

The article even said that overseedng is a good job (without spraying)

Your dead right. there's a world of those machines (einbock grass harrows and air seeder combo types) for sale on the net that are only a year or two old. They are mad money and outside the scope of most farmers. I'd say alot of contractors may have bought them but got very little custom.

I seen that article in farmers Journal that you talked about. I just thought what alot of money for doing a relatively simple job. Even power harrows, they do leave a lovely flat fluffy finish, but this isn't always ideal for grass seed. There's alot of maintenance and wearing parts then to fix and they are slow working machines requiring big hp! I think with grass burnt off that a good triple K harrow or something similar would rough things up enough if you wanted to rough things up before using a chain harrow to finish off making the seedbed before seeding.

I bought a new hackett 10' drag chain harrow this spring for €600 from Johnstons farm mach in longford. Best investment I ever made. He sold the world of them to farmers reseeding this year.

I chain harrowed all the farm during the spring before spreading fertilizer. Great to pull out moss, weeds and dead grass. The only thing I noticed was that ends used to bonce and curl up, but I cured that by linking on 2 sections of 5' girder side by side to the back. Keeps it well pulled out and you get a good 'bite' with them. I'I take these off and turn the whole thing upside down to cover seed

Muckit

reilig wrote: »

I spread it with a wagtail the other day. Went over the whole lot of it twice in different directions. Mixed half the seed with the fertilizer first and spread it and then mixed the other half of the seed with the lime and spread it. i don't think I missed any ground. I've spread seed mixed with fertilizer in the past with a small spinner like you have and it came out perfect. The secret is to put it on very light and go over it twice. The first time I ever seeded, i used the seed barrow, set it at the recommended setting (3 match sticks wide I think). Put 3 acre packs into and there was still seed in it after I had 6 acres covered. Its a slow process and I had no intention of going over it again with the seeder so i just mixed the seed with the fertilizer and finished the rest with the spreader. It worked perfect.

As for spraying, stubble is ideal for spraying. You'll get a fast kill and you won't need to clean it off before you harrow it. I recommend the Roundup Biactive for a faster kill - even though it is more expensive than other glyphos products. If you sprayed today, you could harrow it a few times over the weekend and be ready to seed by wednesday next week. its promised good until then anyway. Frost won't have a big impact on grass until december. if you get it sown and it gets established, then it will be safe.

I got a good kill off with the roundup. Had planned on tilling at the weekend but weather just so bad, going to hook up chain harrow now this evening.

On the spreading the seed......... did you ever just spread the seed on it's own on a very low setting?? My concerns with mixing seed with fertilizer is firstly

1)to get it mixed right in spreader
2) Will fertilizer and seed not broadcast differently as the seed in lighter than the fertilizer??? (I'm no expert, just my opinion) If I follow how far the spreader 'throws' the fertilizer, will the seed not travel a shorter distance than this??

I know you've done this for any years this way, so maybe my concerns aren't necessary??

Thanks for all advice

Has anyone any other experience of broadcasting seed with fertiliser spreader?????

reilig

Muckit wrote: »

I got a good kill off with the roundup. Had planned on tilling at the weekend but weather just so bad, going to hook up chain harrow now this evening.

On the spreading the seed......... did you ever just spread the seed on it's own on a very low setting?? My concerns with mixing seed with fertilizer is firstly

1)to get it mixed right in spreader
2) Will fertilizer and seed not broadcast differently as the seed in lighter than the fertilizer??? (I'm no expert, just my opinion) If I follow how far the spreader 'throws' the fertilizer, will the seed not travel a shorter distance than this??

I know you've done this for any years this way, so maybe my concerns aren't necessary??

Thanks for all advice

Has anyone any other experience of broadcasting seed with fertiliser spreader?????

My spreader (a wagtail) has a setting for broadcasting seed alone. I don't think there would be a problem spreading it with a spinner or wagtail. It would be a case of trial and error in my opinion. Try it out with one bag, see how much ground you have covered and take it from there. If you have it at a very low setting sure you will have it there or thereabouts. Be careful if its windy though (as it is here today) - you will end up with uneven cover.

I saw my father in law spread seed on 7 acres 2 years ago with a bucket. It came up perfect. There was no accuracy used or needed there. I told him that I'd do it with the spreader but he siad that this was the way that he always did it and it always worked for him.

A small bit of seed goes a long way. Spread it as light as you can and then if you have some left over, go over it again.

Username John

reilig wrote: »

My spreader (a wagtail) has a setting for broadcasting seed alone. I don't think there would be a problem spreading it with a spinner or wagtail. It would be a case of trial and error in my opinion. Try it out with one bag, see how much ground you have covered and take it from there. If you have it at a very low setting sure you will have it there or thereabouts. Be careful if its windy though (as it is here today) - you will end up with uneven cover.

How close do you go between 'lines' or 'rows' with the spinner? The seed wouldnt travel that far (I imagine), so am interested to know how close you drive to the last line you did.

reilig wrote: »

I saw my father in law spread seed on 7 acres 2 years ago with a bucket. It came up perfect. There was no accuracy used or needed there.

Ouch - 7 acres - thats a lot o walking and shaking o seed... :eek:

reilig

Username John wrote: »

How close do you go between 'lines' or 'rows' with the spinner? The seed wouldnt travel that far (I imagine), so am interested to know how close you drive to the last line you did.


Ouch - 7 acres - thats a lot o walking and shaking o seed... :eek:

How close do you drive, well that will depend on how wide it spreads and if you're going over it twice, its fine to let it lap a little bit. As i said, I mix the fertilizer with it, so its easy to see on sprayed off grass how wide the seed and fertilizer went.

As I said in one of my earlier posts, the whole secret to getting an even grass growth and not having lines or rows is to spread the seed lightly and go over it twice - the second direction perpindicular to the first direction IYKWIM. When you are finished you will have done a chequered seed spread across the field and anything that you missed in the first run, you will cover in the second.

I'll try to put up a picture of what I seeded 3 weeks ago. There's a fine cover of grass coming on it now since the downpours of rain finished 3 days ago.

dar31

spreading with a twin disc spinner we drive the with of the tractor apart.
the when we go to roll the field we leave the spinner on and put the roller on the long drawbar. we leave the spinner running and the doors closed when rolling, some seed will still come out, leaving a fairly even cover of seed

Muckit

dar31 wrote: »

spreading with a twin disc spinner we drive the with of the tractor apart.
the when we go to roll the field we leave the spinner on and put the roller on the long drawbar. we leave the spinner running and the doors closed when rolling, some seed will still come out, leaving a fairly even cover of seed

You mix the fertiliser with the seed the first time though, yeah dar31?

That sounds like a good idea pulling the roller behind while still spreading some seed to finish up, your pretty sure to get everything then.

Muckit

reilig wrote: »

How close do you drive, well that will depend on how wide it spreads and if you're going over it twice, its fine to let it lap a little bit. As i said, I mix the fertilizer with it, so its easy to see on sprayed off grass how wide the seed and fertilizer went.

As I said in one of my earlier posts, the whole secret to getting an even grass growth and not having lines or rows is to spread the seed lightly and go over it twice - the second direction perpindicular to the first direction IYKWIM. When you are finished you will have done a chequered seed spread across the field and anything that you missed in the first run, you will cover in the second.

I'll try to put up a picture of what I seeded 3 weeks ago. There's a fine cover of grass coming on it now since the downpours of rain finished 3 days ago.

I understand the spreading pattern you use, it's a good idea. I do the same when I'm spraying grazing ground to make sure I get everything.

I chainharrowed last night. Gave it 4runs. Did it criss cross (chequer style diagonal runs like you describe) and then i went diagonally from opposite corners of the field and then from the other two corners (to make an X.......hard to explain without a diagram, but I think you should understand) I think I got it well blackened now. It didn't pull out the scraws though, it shouldn't do? Not necessary??

Anyways, I had only gave it one run when the oul lad came up with diesel in the jeep and said I was only 'wasting my time with that yoke' and that a powerharrow is what is needed!!! :mad: Now he has me doubting myself!! I'I never live it down if the reseed is a disaster!:rolleyes:

Planning on spreading seed with fertiliser this evening, giving it one run with chain harrow again and then rolling. What's the verdict guys, to powerharrow or not??:rolleyes:

reilig

Remember the articles in the Independent and the journal last week about the min till machines - none of them remove the scraw and they work fine. You're not doing anything different.

The whole idea of the chain harrow is not to break the scraw. Mine was chain harrowed twice and the seed spread on top of it. Rolled in, and that was it.
Chain harrowing is enough for it. Don't waste your money on the power harrow. Get the seed sown because its getting late for it. It will strike within a week and by the middle of next month there will be a nice bit of grass on it.

Muckit wrote: »

I understand the spreading pattern you use, it's a good idea. I do the same when I'm spraying grazing ground to make sure I get everything.

I chainharrowed last night. Gave it 4runs. Did it criss cross (chequer style diagonal runs like you describe) and then i went diagonally from opposite corners of the field and then from the other two corners (to make an X.......hard to explain without a diagram, but I think you should understand) I think I got it well blackened now. It didn't pull out the scraws though, it shouldn't do? Not necessary??

Anyways, I had only gave it one run when the oul lad came up with diesel in the jeep and said I was only 'wasting my time with that yoke' and that a powerharrow is what is needed!!! :mad: Now he has me doubting myself!! I'I never live it down if the reseed is a disaster!:rolleyes:

Planning on spreading seed with fertiliser this evening, giving it one run with chain harrow again and then rolling. What's the verdict guys, to powerharrow or not??:rolleyes:

vanderbadger

have seen a few of those massey corn drills for sale recently for handy enough money, would they be ok for grass seed?

just do it

Well Muckit, now that we're 3 years down the line how did the reseed get on?

Muckit

HI JDI

I did a full reseed that time, not just 'overseeding. I sprayed it off with roundup, then got contractor to give it a single light rub of powerharrow. Then I shook grass seed on its own with spinner, then put out 2 -2.5 bags of 10-10-20(I think)

This year I have given overseeding a go. But wasn't going to mention it here until I seen results

..........so basically I sprayed meadow 3weeks precutting with Hi-load micram. This was to kill off all weeds (few docks, but mainly buttercups). Walked it last night and none coming in regrowth so I'm happy out.

Silage picked up on 8 June and a few days later I gave it a run of chain harrow, then attached chain harrow to back of spinner and spread grass seed, then a bag of 0-10-20/acre. I also threw half a bag of seed into each tank and got slurry out on it. Then borrowed a neighbours roller and gave it a light roll

It's starting to green up now, but that's the old grass. Once it comes on another bit I'I use strip wire (front and back) to move them around the field and clip it down. This should let light into the new seedling and give them the best chance. I'm thinking if it doesn't work, I can throw my hat at this overseeding lark!! The weather has been perfect for it.

just do it

Ah you got a power harrow in the end . I hadn't noticed the thread was called overseed as I stumbled across it when searching for something else.

I like what you've done this year. At a minimum you'd hope the new seed will take off on the bare ground where the weeds were. Keeping it grazed makes sense alright. Best of luck with it

agriman27

Just wonderin did many lads on here put the minimum till chain harrow method of a full reseed into practice. Loads of ideas and chatting on this thread but nobody ever really talked about results. I'm interested to hear is it worth tryin a full reseed this way :pac:.

just do it

Quote below from this Teagasc article

What is happening at farm level?
A recent survey of a proportion of co-op suppliers from Kerry, Connaught
Gold and Glanbia (Creighton et al., 2011) found a number of significant
findings from a reseeding perspective, these are listed below.
i. Regular reseeding took place on 50% of participants farms, 25%
reseed infrequently, 25% never reseed.
ii. Of those reseeding, 50% of participants reseed 2-4ha/year, 20%
<2ha/year.
iii. 75% of participants prioritise reseeding the grazing area.
iv. The experienced benefits of reseeding are increased
spring/autumn DM production and improved sward quality.
v. Autumn reseeding was the preferred time of 66% of survey
participants, 13% in spring, the remaining 21% did a combination
of both.
vi. Only 50% of the participants soil test the area being reseeded.
vii. 50% plough, 20% use minimum cultivation, 30% use a
combination of both.
viii. When seeding, 40% use the fertiliser spreader, 35% seed barrow.
ix. Post emergence spray was used on 50% of farms.
x. 85% of participants have swards affected by docks, directly linked
to low usage of post emergence spray and timing of reseeding.
In general the results of the survey are encouraging; the farms which are
reseeding are experiencing good results and consider it a good investment. A
number of key areas need to be addressed however, which is the purpose of
the following paper.

agriman27

Any results on the chain harrow method does it work well

just do it

reilig wrote: »

I baled 8 acres of silage yesterday that I sprayed with roundup biactive a week ago. I ran the chainharrow on it twice yesterday evening and spread grass seed along with 1 bag per acre of 10-10-20 and 1 bag per acre of granulated lime. I intend to cover the whole lot with a very light coat of slurry this evening and roll it in. In the past this method has worked out great for reseeding for me. It doesn't break the sod and I find that grass grows much better on it than if I had power harrowed the top inch of soil.

This post answers what I came looking for - timing of the steps. So for myself:

• Day1 - spray second cut with Roundup Biactive 1 week before harvesting silage
• Day 7 - Mow
• Day 8 - bale
• Then all the next steps in immediate succession
  • Chainharrow x2 in perpendicular runs
  • Spread half seed with 1bg of 10-10-20 in one direction
  • Spread other half of seed with 1bg of gran lime perpendicular to fert
  • Slurry, I'm thinking 2,000 gal/ac
  • Roll
• All done by end of day 9/10

Some questions:

• I'm a bit nervous about spraying before cutting. If the weather breaks what are the shortest and longest time periods you have to work with sprayed grass?
• If all goes according to plan how soon after seeding are you looking at grazing it? I'm looking at coordinating weaning so that they will be grazing it. Will break it into paddocks and rotate them on it.

bob charles

just do it wrote: »

This post answers what I came looking for - timing of the steps. So for myself:

• Day1 - spray second cut with Roundup Biactive 1 week before harvesting silage
• Day 7 - Mow
• Day 8 - bale
• Then all the next steps in immediate succession
  • Chainharrow x2 in perpendicular runs
  • Spread half seed with 1bg of 10-10-20 in one direction
  • Spread other half of seed with 1bg of gran lime perpendicular to fert
  • Slurry, I'm thinking 2,000 gal/ac
  • Roll
• All done by end of day 9/10

Some questions:

• I'm a bit nervous about spraying before cutting. If the weather breaks what are the shortest and longest time periods you have to work with sprayed grass?
• If all goes according to plan how soon after seeding are you looking at grazing it? I'm looking at coordinating weaning so that they will be grazing it. Will break it into paddocks and rotate them on it.

I have had the weather turn after spraying and not cut for 15 days, you will think its gone to ****e when you cut it that late, but the cattle will eat it over any other silage due to high sugars

6 weeks?

freedominacup

Muckit wrote: »

HI JDI

I did a full reseed that time, not just 'overseeding. I sprayed it off with roundup, then got contractor to give it a single light rub of powerharrow. Then I shook grass seed on its own with spinner, then put out 2 -2.5 bags of 10-10-20(I think)

This year I have given overseeding a go. But wasn't going to mention it here until I seen results

..........so basically I sprayed meadow 3weeks precutting with Hi-load micram. This was to kill off all weeds (few docks, but mainly buttercups). Walked it last night and none coming in regrowth so I'm happy out.

Silage picked up on 8 June and a few days later I gave it a run of chain harrow, then attached chain harrow to back of spinner and spread grass seed, then a bag of 0-10-20/acre. I also threw half a bag of seed into each tank and got slurry out on it. Then borrowed a neighbours roller and gave it a light roll

It's starting to green up now, but that's the old grass. Once it comes on another bit I'I use strip wire (front and back) to move them around the field and clip it down. This should let light into the new seedling and give them the best chance. I'm thinking if it doesn't work, I can throw my hat at this overseeding lark!! The weather has been perfect for it.

Around the time you posted this you shoud've sprayed it with roundup. You would have nailed the old grasses. Grazing won't give anything like the same results.

Markcheese

Grazing after reseeding especially with light stock will keep light getting through to the newer more productive grasses and clover... Shouldn't really need to spray if ph and p and k s are about right ...

just do it

I was on a farm yesterday where the full variety of reseeding/overseeding techiques have been used, with the exception of ploughing. The best 2ac paddock was oversown earlier this year, got no spray and has been grazed every 3 weeks since. Farmer uses gran lime & slurry and is a believer in a little and often when it comes to fertilizer.
He's used direct drill and broadcast and sees no difference in results

• Has not rolled post seeding with no issue.
• Has a lot of drainage done since taking over the farm 5/6 years ago prior to reseeding
• With overseeding has maintained 3 week rotation and therefore no time lost while waiting for new seed to take
• Worst paddock was done last spring, had to be grazed and was poached, and a cut of silage taken off it one week ago. Good grass growth but not thick

just do it

just do it wrote: »

This post answers what I came looking for - timing of the steps. So for myself:

• Day1 - spray second cut with Roundup Biactive 1 week before harvesting silage
• Day 7 - Mow
• Day 8 - bale
• Then all the next steps in immediate succession
  • Chainharrow x2 in perpendicular runs
  • Spread half seed with 1bg of 10-10-20 in one direction
  • Spread other half of seed with 1bg of gran lime perpendicular to fert
  • Slurry, I'm thinking 2,000 gal/ac
  • Roll
• All done by end of day 9/10

What I've ended up doing:
Day 0 - spray with Biactive
Day 3-7 - bite finger and toe nails watching the weather;)
Day 7 - mow and bale. Grass was only left on the ground a few hours as it was already dry and rain was on the horizon (drizzle started as last bale was in baler)
Day 8&9 - disc harrow by a friend who has one. Opted to do this as the field has a lot of ridges and the 2 headlands were unmowable so it will bring all the field into the silage ground
Day 10 (tomorrow) - power harrow
Day 10/11 - spread seed with wagtail in two perpendicular runs, spread gran lime and 10-10-20 with wagtail. Roll.
Day 11-12 - watery slurry at ~1500-2000gln/ac
Day 13 - figure out how I'm going to pay for it:rolleyes:

I've kept a 1 acre corner for reseeding with chain harrow only. I gave it a few runs on day 8 but it didn't get much of a cut in the ground. Grass still dying off so will give it another run on day 10 so will be interested to see if it cuts in better.

So yesterday morning as I was parking up with the chain harrow a retired neighbour called in. I'd always take this man's council. He told me he reseeded years ago using no spray, a chain harrow, spread seed and spread FYM on top with great results. It was a timely visit as I felt the chain harrow hadn't done enough to open the ground for new seed. He took a look and said it would take off! Time will tell....

agriman27

just do it wrote: »

[/LIST]
What I've ended up doing:
Day 0 - spray with Biactive
Day 3-7 - bite finger and toe nails watching the weather;)
Day 7 - mow and bale. Grass was only left on the ground a few hours as it was already dry and rain was on the horizon (drizzle started as last bale was in baler)
Day 8&9 - disc harrow by a friend who has one. Opted to do this as the field has a lot of ridges and the 2 headlands were unmowable so it will bring all the field into the silage ground
Day 10 (tomorrow) - power harrow
Day 10/11 - spread seed with wagtail in two perpendicular runs, spread gran lime and 10-10-20 with wagtail. Roll.
Day 11-12 - watery slurry at ~1500-2000gln/ac
Day 13 - figure out how I'm going to pay for it:rolleyes:
O
I've kept a 1 acre corner for reseeding with chain harrow only. I gave it a few runs on day 8 but it didn't get much of a cut in the ground. Grass still dying off so will give it another run on day 10 so will be interested to see if it cuts in better.

So yesterday morning as I was parking up with the chain harrow a retired neighbour called in. I'd always take this man's council. He told me he reseeded years ago using no spray, a chain harrow, spread seed and spread FYM on top with great results. It was a timely visit as I felt the chain harrow hadn't done enough to open the ground for new seed. He took a look and said it would take off! Time will tell....

I've been waiting for someone to test out these methods for a long time I for one will look forward to the results! I was hoping to get some new seed in myself but can't get it arranged at the minute.

reilig

just do it wrote: »

[/LIST]
What I've ended up doing:
Day 0 - spray with Biactive
Day 3-7 - bite finger and toe nails watching the weather;)
Day 7 - mow and bale. Grass was only left on the ground a few hours as it was already dry and rain was on the horizon (drizzle started as last bale was in baler)
Day 8&9 - disc harrow by a friend who has one. Opted to do this as the field has a lot of ridges and the 2 headlands were unmowable so it will bring all the field into the silage ground
Day 10 (tomorrow) - power harrow
Day 10/11 - spread seed with wagtail in two perpendicular runs, spread gran lime and 10-10-20 with wagtail. Roll.
Day 11-12 - watery slurry at ~1500-2000gln/ac
Day 13 - figure out how I'm going to pay for it:rolleyes:

I've kept a 1 acre corner for reseeding with chain harrow only. I gave it a few runs on day 8 but it didn't get much of a cut in the ground. Grass still dying off so will give it another run on day 10 so will be interested to see if it cuts in better.

So yesterday morning as I was parking up with the chain harrow a retired neighbour called in. I'd always take this man's council. He told me he reseeded years ago using no spray, a chain harrow, spread seed and spread FYM on top with great results. It was a timely visit as I felt the chain harrow hadn't done enough to open the ground for new seed. He took a look and said it would take off! Time will tell....

I think that using a power harrow after all that you have done above is overkill unless you need to loosen soil to fill humps and hollows - but I haven't seen you mention land leveller so I assume you 're not. Have no doubt that the area rubbed with the chain harrow will do really well. have tried and tested it with no problems. Watery slurry is the key and a very light coat!

moy83

reilig wrote: »

I think that using a power harrow after all that you have done above is overkill unless you need to loosen soil to fill humps and hollows - but I haven't seen you mention land leveller so I assume you 're not. Have no doubt that the area rubbed with the chain harrow will do really well. have tried and tested it with no problems. Watery slurry is the key and a very light coat!

With the chain harow and slurry , do you harrow it before or after spreading the slurry . Or a run before and after ?
If I lashed out a heavy coat of slurry and chain harrowed the crap out of it after to break it up would the seed take or still get smothered with the heavy slurry

reilig

moy83 wrote: »

With the chain harow and slurry , do you harrow it before or after spreading the slurry . Or a run before and after ?
If I lashed out a heavy coat of slurry and chain harrowed the crap out of it after to break it up would the seed take or still get smothered with the heavy slurry

Harrow first. Then seed, fertilizer and lime. Then roll. Then thin slurry. If slurry is too thick it will crust and grass may not grow. That's what I do, but I don't think there is a set rule.

moy83

reilig wrote: »

Harrow first. Then seed, fertilizer and lime. Then roll. Then thin slurry. If slurry is too thick it will crust and grass may not grow. That's what I do, but I don't think there is a set rule.

Thanks reilig . I have 7 or 8 acres for reseeding and the lad next door has a 4 bay tank full of slurry that he would like to be rid of before the winter . Thats why Im thinking of liberaly applying the slurry but if its no addition I probably wont bother .
I might just dose it with slurry and lime a little while after and leave the reseeding until spring altogether either .

arais

not a fan of putting slurry either watery or otherwise on top of grass seeds.. maybe if you have heavy peaty soil might be ok

for a good seed bed, you need the seeds to root downwards, slurry attracts them up wards

Farmer Pudsey

would be careful using this method this year if you get a dry spell after spreading slurry grass will germinate and die. Used it last year myself worked perfectly. However this was a field that was being reseeded after a hybrid and there was little or no skin on it.

If it works it is a cheap way of reseeding.

dharn

I have justs stitched in 3 acres with guttler machine, 10 days after spraying ground very hard and very dry topped it after 5 days and let cattle in to graze toppings, but a lot of chaff left, 2 bags of gran lime per acre applied and 2 bags 10 10 20 applied thinking of puttingsome thin slurry on it, any opinions on when would be the best time to do this , tomorrow or when the seed has sprouted

Farmer Pudsey

dharn wrote: »

I have justs stitched in 3 acres with guttler machine, 10 days after spraying ground very hard and very dry topped it after 5 days and let cattle in to graze toppings, but a lot of chaff left, 2 bags of gran lime per acre applied and 2 bags 10 10 20 applied thinking of puttingsome thin slurry on it, any opinions on when would be the best time to do this , tomorrow or when the seed has sprouted

I would not put thin slurry on it all you are addind is nitrogen it has plenty at present. Have you or wgo ever stitched it put on slug pellets. If not put on slug pellets.

dharn

Farmer Pudsey wrote: »

I would not put thin slurry on it all you are addind is nitrogen it has plenty at present. Have you or wgo ever stitched it put on slug pellets. If not put on slug pellets.

Thanks pudsey, no slug pellets used, would the amount needed be very expensive, never heard of using slug pellets on grass reseeding before

Farmer Pudsey

dharn wrote: »

Thanks pudsey, no slug pellets used, would the amount needed be very expensive, never heard of using slug pellets on grass reseeding before

No with normal reseeding however with stitching they are required not sure of the amount I think Bob and Delavel do it a bit one of them might tell you of the amount