Stanley cooker problem

Dtp79 · 04-02-2013 10:13PM

shane0007 wrote: »

No. You would still have pump pressure. It could be blocked or only partially opening or not opening, i.e. stuck.
If you don't have one, take one off another pump or just replace the pump for a few minutes to confirm.

Ill do that so. I have a pump there in the van. Thanks For that lads

Dtp79 · 06-02-2013 05:36PM

Dtp79 wrote: »

Ill do that so. I have a pump there in the van. Thanks For that lads

Changed the stem in the pump and guess what?????????

Nothing!! Fcuking thing still not working. Was on the phone to Stanley and they pretty much repeated everything I did. I've thrown in the towel and asked a Stanley serviceman to come out. Maybe in his years of experience he's seen something like this before.

jimf · 06-02-2013 08:14PM

Dtp79 wrote: »

Changed the stem in the pump and guess what?????????

Nothing!! Fcuking thing still not working. Was on the phone to Stanley and they pretty much repeated everything I did. I've thrown in the towel and asked a Stanley serviceman to come out. Maybe in his years of experience he's seen something like this before.

isnt that a proper ballcocks please post back and let us know the outcome

Dtp79 · 06-02-2013 08:20PM

jimf wrote: »

isnt that a proper ballcocks please post back and let us know the outcome

I will indeed

shane0007 · 06-02-2013 10:03PM

Dtp79 wrote: »

Changed the stem in the pump and guess what?????????
Nothing!! Fcuking thing still not working. Was on the phone to Stanley and they pretty much repeated everything I did. I've thrown in the towel and asked a Stanley serviceman to come out. Maybe in his years of experience he's seen something like this before.

I would have changed the whole pump just to see. Easy change it back if same problem. Is nozzle wet or dry after firing attempt?

Dtp79 · 06-02-2013 10:14PM

shane0007 wrote: »

I would have changed the whole pump just to see. Easy change it back if same problem. Is nozzle wet or dry after firing attempt?

I only had a RH pump. LH on burner. Nozzle is slightly damp

shane0007 · 06-02-2013 10:16PM

Dtp79 wrote: »

I only had a RH pump. LH on burner. Nozzle is slightly damp

Did you hear it spark?
Did you change the nozzle?

Dtp79 · 06-02-2013 11:08PM

shane0007 wrote: »

Did you hear it spark?
Did you change the nozzle?

Ye it definately sparks and I did change the nozzle, electrodes, electrode cables, transformer, photocell, solenoid, solenoid stem,

shane0007 · 06-02-2013 11:20PM

Dtp79 wrote: »

Ye it definately sparks and I did change the nozzle, electrodes, electrode cables, transformer, photocell, solenoid, solenoid stem,

Then it has to be either dodgy nozzle or a dodgy pump. If it is sparking, the nozzle is wet so fuel is getting through but is it atomised?
What is the pump pressure doing at the point of spark? Any loss? Nozzle holder hairline cracks that are fairly invisible to the eye but under pressure...?

Dtp79 · 06-02-2013 11:50PM

shane0007 wrote: »

Then it has to be either dodgy nozzle or a dodgy pump. If it is sparking, the nozzle is wet so fuel is getting through but is it atomised?
What is the pump pressure doing at the point of spark? Any loss? Nozzle holder hairline cracks that are fairly invisible to the eye but under pressure...?

Don't know about the nozzle holder but pressure is staying perfect the whole way through until lockout. Sometimes it won't even fire too. It all depends on the mood it's in!!

Dtp79 · 07-02-2013 06:36PM

Dtp79 wrote: »

Don't know about the nozzle holder but pressure is staying perfect the whole way through until lockout. Sometimes it won't even fire too. It all depends on the mood it's in!!

UPDATE!!
Stanley man got it going
A switch on the flue outside was burnt out he told the mother in law.
I didn't check anything with the flue outside cause the heating burner worked fine.
Thanks for all the help anyway lads

Billy Bunting · 07-02-2013 08:04PM

Dtp79 wrote: »

UPDATE!!
A switch on the flue outside was burnt out he told the mother in law.

Switch on flue outside ?

Dtp79 · 07-02-2013 08:09PM

Billy Bunting wrote: »

Switch on flue outside ?

Ye it's a low level flue with a fan built into it. When I was on the phone to Stanley they said not to go near it as if that wasn't working neither burner would work!!

jimf · 07-02-2013 08:12PM

so to a degree so it was air restricted

Dtp79 · 07-02-2013 08:16PM

jimf wrote: »

so to a degree so it was air restricted

There was no fan on the air intake. The fan was on the flue. Air goes in at the bottom. Anyway never puttin me hands on one them feckin cookers again

shane0007 · 07-02-2013 08:28PM

Dtp79 wrote: »

UPDATE!!
Stanley man got it going
A switch on the flue outside was burnt out he told the mother in law.
I didn't check anything with the flue outside cause the heating burner worked fine.
Thanks for all the help anyway lads

Oh the ol' switch on the flue outside trick. The times I've used that one......
Absolute sh1te. It would not cause lock out. If installed correctly it would give no power, i.e. interlock. They are a €1,000 unit that their sales guys seem to insist to overcome weird flue arrangements.

Dtp79 · 07-02-2013 08:31PM

shane0007 wrote: »

Oh the ol' switch on the flue outside trick. The times I've used that one......
Absolute sh1te. It would not cause lock out. If installed correctly it would give no power, i.e. interlock. They are a €1,000 unit that their sales guys seem to insist to overcome weird flue arrangements.

I'm not too familiar with them Shane. I was told he "bypassed" it

shane0007 · 07-02-2013 08:35PM

Dtp79 wrote: »

I'm not too familiar with them Shane. I was told he "bypassed" it

I had a barney with them a few years ago as they wanted to install an illegal flue. Their solution was to charge an extra €1,000 for this flue fan to enable flue gases to be omitted. Client went with their recommendation in the end. It was a boom boom install so I walked & let them install it in whatever manner they wished. From what I hear, the client has had nothing but hardship with it since.

Dtp79 · 07-02-2013 08:47PM

shane0007 wrote: »

I had a barney with them a few years ago as they wanted to install an illegal flue. Their solution was to charge an extra €1,000 for this flue fan to enable flue gases to be omitted. Client went with their recommendation in the end. It was a boom boom install so I walked & let them install it in whatever manner they wished. From what I hear, the client has had nothing but hardship with it since.

They seem shiite alright

Billy Bunting · 07-02-2013 09:21PM

Dtp79 wrote: »

When I was on the phone to Stanley they said not to go near it as if that wasn't working neither burner would work!!

EXACTLY, I was of the impression this was an Oven Burner issue only.

Dtp79 · 07-02-2013 09:22PM

Billy Bunting wrote: »

EXACTLY, I was of the impression this was an Oven Burner issue only.

So was I billy

Artymike8 · 21-03-2024 05:55PM

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2056861290/stanley-cooker-problem

This is a very old thread, but I can almost guarantee that the problem IS the pressure switch, which is located in the end of the horizontal flue outside the property. I know this because I have had the same problem. The switch is the flat grey thing with two tubes attached to it.

lem to solve and once you know it, then its easily fixed up.

percyH · 06-01-2025 12:32AM

Hi Artymike8, i

Can you tell me how did you fixed the pressure switch problem please. (I have the same problem..)

Thanks

Nuphor · 21-10-2025 12:48PM

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123024078#Comment_123024078

Similar problem here.

I did buy a pressure switch to replace, but the ones I found all seem to be square:

https://www.solidfuelappliancespares.co.uk/product/pressure-switch-for-fan-flue-motor/

Whereas the one that's at the end of my flue is like @Artymike8 's (round). Would be great to get the oven going again - heating works no probs.

Nuphor · 15-06-2026 07:45PM

Swapped the switch, which did seem to be defective after testing, but still no joy. Lockout with oven after running for about 25 mins. Need to press the green left thermal cut out (I assume) after about an hour to get power back. Not sure what else it's likely to be.

Lenar3556 · 15-06-2026 11:38PM

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/124553378#Comment_124553378

A tripped green high limit stat is a different symptom to a locked out burner as was being discussed above. For high limit stat trip you are typically looking at a thermostat issue, or fault high limit stat itself.

One other thing to consider is that the oven tends to leak some heat to the boiler. If the system is zoned, and no zones are calling for heat, the oven can actually trip the high limit stat for the boiler once it’s on for a while. Newer Stanley cookers come with an interconnect relay to open a zone valve to dump heat in this scenario.

Nuphor · 16-06-2026 10:08AM

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/124553881#Comment_124553881

That makes sense. Interesting thing from last night, noticed pump wasn't on while oven on - from what I read (definitely not an expert), needs to be on to take excess heat away. So, I turned on hot water heating + oven, and the oven got up to temp without lockout (about an hour rather than locking out after about 25 mins).

Wondering now if when my plumber/spark friend wired our hive automation for the stanley if something was mis-wired. Gotta find a way to get the pump running during the oven to fix I suppose?

Lenar3556 · 16-06-2026 06:16PM

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/124554394#Comment_124554394

Where is the pump controlled from? The more modern Stanley’s have an onboard controller that starts the pump based on temperature and pumps it through a bypass. If it’s an older stanley, you will need a pipe stat.

Nuphor · 17-06-2026 03:13PM

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/124555686#Comment_124555686

It's an older Brandon 100k, installed around 2006 from what I can tell, so guess I need a pipe stat?

Stanley cooker problem

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