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STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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    #1832
    ctlsleh
    Registered Users Posts: 779 ✭✭✭ctlsleh


    My father put in a new solid fuel stove into an old fireplace. the old fireplace was removed and plastered up and the stove now sits on the hearth. the exhaust then goes uyp the old chimney and the fireplace opening is plastered up around the exhaust pipe.
    the installer told him he didn't need the metal flue to go up the length of the chimney for the chimney as the exhaust was sealed and plastered....he even said that this is what he had done in his own house.....is that true?
    I would have expected that like an engine the pressure of the exhaust fumes going up the chimney improves the efficiency of the burner?
    is there any danger here and what would the impact be? it does seem to work very well and the room is very warm, but im wondering if there are any efficiency issues or otherwise?


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    #1833
    Robbie.G
    Registered Users Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    ctlsleh wrote: »
    My father put in a new solid fuel stove into an old fireplace. the old fireplace was removed and plastered up and the stove now sits on the hearth. the exhaust then goes uyp the old chimney and the fireplace opening is plastered up around the exhaust pipe.
    the installer told him he didn't need the metal flue to go up the length of the chimney for the chimney as the exhaust was sealed and plastered....he even said that this is what he had done in his own house.....is that true?
    I would have expected that like an engine the pressure of the exhaust fumes going up the chimney improves the efficiency of the burner?
    is there any danger here and what would the impact be? it does seem to work very well and the room is very warm, but im wondering if there are any efficiency issues or otherwise?
    It depends on how the flue is connected to the chimney if its just stuck up the chimney if can make the flue very inefficient as the flue gases cool to quickly.I would also be very concerned if there is a 90degree bend on and how can the chimney be swept


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    #1834
    ctlsleh
    Registered Users Posts: 779 ✭✭✭ctlsleh


    thanks for the reply......regarding the turn, i didnt see it but ill checkm if my father saw it when he put it in, what is the impact of it being 90 degrees? and what should it be.......Also, what is the impact of the flue gases cooling too quickly? i assume that means that the soot doesn't rise? but how is this different if the flue was actually in place? where does the soot go in that case?


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    #1835
    Robbie.G
    Registered Users Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    ctlsleh wrote: »
    thanks for the reply......regarding the turn, i didnt see it but ill checkm if my father saw it when he put it in, what is the impact of it being 90 degrees? and what should it be.......Also, what is the impact of the flue gases cooling too quickly? i assume that means that the soot doesn't rise? but how is this different if the flue was actually in place? where does the soot go in that case?

    90 degree bends are not allowed on solid fuel they are against the building regs as soot can build up on the bend block it and that can lead to carbon monoxide been produced.If the flue gases cool to quickly it can lead to a bad draw on the flue and lead to condense which can rot through a flue or stove.The main thing is for soot to fall back into the stove so it doesn't rest on bends hence no 90 degree


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    #1836
    deandean
    Registered Users Posts: 2,229 ✭✭✭deandean


    Robbie.G wrote: »
    What makes a stove efficient is the baffle arangement this slows down the flue gases and lets the heat out.A open fire is about 10 kw but as there is no baffles 75-80% of the heat goes straight up the chimney.
    The majority of inset stoves are radiant heaters but convection are available in theory the convection give better heat dispersal. Fan assisted aren't that common here.I have seen fan assisted but they are connected to ducts that are run through the house and the warm air is dispersed through out the house.They are available but are expensive to retro fit.
    I hope this might answer one or two of your questions

    Many thanks Robbie for that info, it explains a lot, that type of info is not available on any of the manuals!


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    #1837
    doniepony
    Registered Users Posts: 89 ✭✭doniepony


    Hi all

    I am currently plastering my new build. Attached is the hollow for the inset stove in my sunroom. I was wondering how best to finish both the space that is recieving the stove and wall of the chimney to prevent cracking in the future.

    How should I finish the chamber. The stove will completely fill the space therefore it will get very hot so should I use some sort of fireboard or is it ok. Also as regards the wall of the chimney, I have heard of an additive you can add to skim to make it more flexible to recieve heat. One person said I should not plaster the wall at all but to use special fireboard and then paint it.

    Any opinions welcome


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    #1838
    Robbie.G
    Registered Users Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    doniepony wrote: »
    Hi all

    I am currently plastering my new build. Attached is the hollow for the inset stove in my sunroom. I was wondering how best to finish both the space that is recieving the stove and wall of the chimney to prevent cracking in the future.

    How should I finish the chamber. The stove will completely fill the space therefore it will get very hot so should I use some sort of fireboard or is it ok. Also as regards the wall of the chimney, I have heard of an additive you can add to skim to make it more flexible to recieve heat. One person said I should not plaster the wall at all but to use special fireboard and then paint it.

    Any opinions welcome
    In the builders ope you need to do nothing the stove will sit in end of story.The wall plaster it with sand and cement then skim there is an additive or fireproof skim that can be got under no circumstances let your plasterer stick s slab to the breast it's not good enough as a slab is not fire proof also to comply with building regs you have to fit a hearth under your stove that is a minimum of 225 deep at the front and extend each side a min of 50mm also watch the vent in the ope by right it should be steel not plastic


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    #1839
    have screw gun will travel
    Registered Users Posts: 2 ✭have screw gun will travel


    Id love a bit of feedback on my new installation.

    I just got a stove installed and plumbed to heat water and rads

    Is it usual to have everything rad circuit, heat loss rad, and hot water cylinder all going thru the pump on the return?

    There a stat on the flow that turns the pump on at 35degrees

    I thought the circulation pump should just be for the rad circuit and that the HW and heat loss rad should work on gravity.

    The Hot water tank is directly above the stove

    any advice welcome


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    #1840
    Dtp79
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,097 ✭✭✭Dtp79


    have screw gun will travel wrote: »
    Id love a bit of feedback on my new installation.

    I just got a stove installed and plumbed to heat water and rads

    Is it usual to have everything rad circuit, heat loss rad, and hot water cylinder all going thru the pump on the return?

    There a stat on the flow that turns the pump on at 35degrees

    I thought the circulation pump should just be for the rad circuit and that the HW and heat loss rad should work on gravity.

    The Hot water tank is directly above the stove

    any advice welcome
    To start, the cyclinder should not be heated by the pump. It should be on a gravity circuit with no valves or pumps between the boiler and cyclinder. Could you take a few pics of the hotpress??


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    #1841
    Gritz
    Registered Users Posts: 2 ✭Gritz


    Hi, looking on advice on what stove to fit and what to avoid?

    We have a 3 bed bungalow,with large kitchen dining area where the stove is going, its a 27ft x 13ft room.
    Attic has been insulated and walls pumped with the bead insulation also.

    hope to heat hot water and 12 single radiators, (9x 4ft, 1x 5ft and 2x2ft rads) also plan to build on and would be adding 3-4 more 4ft rads in time so want to be sure the system will be up to this

    looking at the hamco glenmore 30b or blackbird furnace stoves.

    originally the room had a solid fuel range in the room and the chimney is still there, is it possible to use this without a flue or do I need to have the flue for efficiency and safety?

    any advice appreciated, thanks


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    #1842
    candywoman
    Registered Users Posts: 13 ✭candywoman


    Can anyone please helpl me. We're planning to make our own hearth from plywood, Dimensions 1200mm wide 300mm high and 1000mm deep and then tile it. Is this suitable for a 8kw free standing stove. It's the heat from the stove that i am worried about. Any help would be much appreciated


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    #1843
    emg74
    Registered Users Posts: 225 ✭✭emg74


    I'm sure someone who knows better than me will reply - BUT I would imagine that this is a huge fire risk. We have a granite hearth on a concrete base and some days the granite is very warm to touch. Don't under-estimate the heat that will be channeled through the legs of the stove


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    #1844
    tiny timy
    Registered Users Posts: 531 ✭✭✭tiny timy


    Hi all, anyone any experience with the derg non boioer stove. I have a large open space area to heat. I just want the non boiler 12kw model and just looking to see if anyone had one installed and reviews.thanks


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    #1845
    Big Vern
    Registered Users Posts: 602 ✭✭✭Big Vern


    Hi All,

    Just wondering does anyone have any advice on keeping the stove going all night. What is the best type of fuel etc.
    We are currently using smokeless coal, in town so have to! Have tried to 'dampen down' the stove by putting ash on top of it, but sometimes it puts out the fire.

    Also any advice on keeping the glass clean, it is usually dirty in the morning and I clean it every morning and it come off easy enough.
    Any tips etc. would be great.
    Cheers.


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    #1846
    Dtp79
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,097 ✭✭✭Dtp79


    Big Vern wrote: »
    Hi All,

    Just wondering does anyone have any advice on keeping the stove going all night. What is the best type of fuel etc.
    We are currently using smokeless coal, in town so have to! Have tried to 'dampen down' the stove by putting ash on top of it, but sometimes it puts out the fire.

    Also any advice on keeping the glass clean, it is usually dirty in the morning and I clean it every morning and it come off easy enough.
    Any tips etc. would be great.
    Cheers.
    Without a doubt turf is the best at going all night if you can get your hands on some. I use it in mine. Throw in a few sods, turn the air right down to zero and the turf is still glowing in the morning.


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    #1847
    Call me Al
    Registered Users Posts: 3,022 ✭✭✭Call me Al


    We use 3 or 4 briquettes, close off the air, and don't rake it out before adding the briquettes, when we want to keep the fire going all night.
    Your glass will be dirty though. In fact I find that the only fuels to leave the glass clean are properly dried logs, and stove coal. But neither are very good at keeping our stove lit all night unfortunately.


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    #1848
    Dtp79
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,097 ✭✭✭Dtp79


    Call me Al wrote: »
    We use 3 or 4 briquettes, close off the air, and don't rake it out before adding the briquettes, when we want to keep the fire going all night.
    Your glass will be dirty though. In fact I find that the only fuels to leave the glass clean are properly dried logs, and stove coal. But neither are very good at keeping our stove lit all night unfortunately.
    I'd also use briquettes too. Just as good as turf


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    #1849
    doniepony
    Registered Users Posts: 89 ✭✭doniepony


    Hi Stovefan and all

    Stovefan, you seem to be in the know as regards everything to do with stoves so maybe you could give me some advice. I posted here last week about a cassette type stove I am intending to fit into the sunroom of my new build. My options were quite small as it is a narrow chimney breast and needs an external air supply so at present I am looking at a Boru 7kw 400i as it fits the bill. the measurements are 570 height 585 Width and 450 in Depth.

    My concern last week (and thank you to those who replied) was that I am afraid the opening for the stove will become very hot when the stove is working and that the skim on the fascia of the chimney breast especially will crack (I have heard a few people with this problem). Basically all of my house is skimmed inside and I was hoping to skim this chimney breast also. I have looked at various solutions like hydropanel Board (which I cant plaster onto) fireboard (same prob) and vitcas heat resistent plaster which doesnt seem to be readily available, flexible additive (which I think you can only put into sand/cement-and I want a smooth finish). The plasterers are looking to finish inside by the end of the week and were onto me today as they will be starting the sunroom soon. Also some of stoveshops I went into said I should put heat resistent board in the opening also- what do people think?

    I would be grateful for any replies.

    Regards

    I am just wondering is there another simple solution.


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    #1850
    PaddyJohn
    Registered Users Posts: 5 ✭PaddyJohn


    Hi all,

    I am looking at getting a stove to heat open plan area and 19 rads.

    The installer has recommended a Yola 22-30kW Boiler Stove. Does anyone have any experience/advice in reation to this stove?

    thanks.


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    #1851
    lostinashford
    Registered Users Posts: 721 ✭✭✭lostinashford


    PaddyJohn wrote: »
    Hi all,

    I am looking at getting a stove to heat open plan area and 19 rads.

    The installer has recommended a Yola 22-30kW Boiler Stove. Does anyone have any experience/advice in reation to this stove?

    thanks.

    I looked into that stove and was very impressed with both its design and Yola's customer service however now have decided not to go with a boiler stove - have my eye on a Yola 6kw room heater stove. Give them a call or go down to their factory in Wexford. Irish made which is good. I have no connection with Yola but was in contact with them for research into my own project.


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    #1852
    avud
    Registered Users Posts: 121 ✭✭avud


    Hi guys
    I am about to fit a cara insert stove, had chimney cleaned and inspected and told it was in good condition. Is it advisable/safer to fot a flue liner or would I be ok just to connect from top of insert to chimney ?
    Thanks in advance for any advice.


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    #1853
    Brianne
    Registered Users Posts: 244 ✭✭Brianne


    We've fitted an insert stove also and was told our chimney was fine but we still lined it. A guy Stoveman who used post here and was quite an expert on all this recommended in general to line the chimney was a better job when putting in a stove. Seemingly way easier to clean also when lined.


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    #1854
    The Stove Man
    Registered Users Posts: 39 ✭The Stove Man


    avud wrote: »
    Hi guys
    I am about to fit a cara insert stove, had chimney cleaned and inspected and told it was in good condition. Is it advisable/safer to fot a flue liner or would I be ok just to connect from top of insert to chimney ?
    Thanks in advance for any advice.

    You do not need to re line a chimney if the pots are in good condition, there is no safety issue regarding re lining a chimney
    The only benefit of relining is a little better draught when the fire first lights and avoiding a connection with an adapter and the clay pots, which can be difficult to get correct
    The life of a reasonably priced flexi liner is usually 5-10 years and then it will need to be replaced, the clay liners will last a lifetime if properly maintained and swept.
    More important than re lining is to put a rain cowl on the top of the chimney to prevent rain entering the chimney and stove.


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    #1855
    Autorotation
    Registered Users Posts: 62 ✭✭Autorotation


    Hello all, after quite a lot of research on here and the internet in general, I have more or less decided (I think!) on getting an Inis Bofin inset stove. I was thinking of the Stanley Cara inset but the Inis sounds a bit better I think. Does anyone have any experience of this stove? What are your thoughts? Was also looking at the Aarrow because of the lifetime guarantee but apparently Inis have a very good customer service (from Galway) along with a 5 year guarantee. Thank you all!...


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    #1856
    ftnbase
    Registered Users Posts: 66 ✭✭ftnbase


    ravendude wrote: »
    Hi there,
    We're thinking about getting a Boru 600i installed in an existing fireplace. The existing surround will go, as it's made from wood, and stove may generate too much heat.

    Does anyone have any experiences with this Stove, good/bad? Do they throw out a lot of heat in comparison to a stand alone stove, - we have a quite large area to heat.

    Also, it's going into an existing fireplace, it all seems almost too straight forward, - it will apparently just require a flu kit connected to the chimney pot, and the existing fireplace opening will be widened slightly, and the stove raised several inches off the floor. He measured it all up etc and reckons its all good. Does this sound right? Is there anything wrt to the installation that i should be watching out for? House is approx 15 years old if that matters.
    I would be installed by the stove vendor so I'd be a little concerned they might skimp on the installation somehow to get the sale, - I might be a bit over cautious in this regard though. The benefit I guess is at least we only deal with one party who takes responsibility, - no blaming the other guy.

    Thanks for any info! We're a little freaked out as have read about a few horror stories with stoves now.

    I installed one of these in November 2011. It was installed by the vendor. The job was done in less than two hours - there was no fireplace to remove so that made the job easier than yours.

    The room in which it is installed is 60 square metres (2.7m high ceilings). We never used the fireplace before the stove was installed, relying on the central (underfloor) heating instead. The room never seemed tobe warm.

    After we installed the stove the change was incredible. We now use the room all the time. We put on a fire at 4-5pm and it burns until maybe 10.30pm. We use compressed wood logs - one 10kg packet per night - costing slightly less than €3 per pack. In the morning the room is still warm because of the heat emitted by the chimney breast. Our oil usage has reduced by 30-40%.

    The stove itself is very easy to operate and it has not given any trouble to date. I have just noticed in the past few weeks that the draught is getting a bit hard to control (too much draught) but I think that the fire rope needs replacing. We were told by the supplier that this would have to be done within a year or two - it will cost about €20 to replace. I don't know how one of these would operate with coal but on the basis of the output from the heatlogs I imagine the output using coal would be incredible.

    The controls are easy to operate - it takes a few weeks to figure them out but after that they become second nature.

    There was one job that the vendor did not do which was a bit of a pain - he would not install the chimney rain cover on the roof even though he supplied it and charged seperately for it on the bill! I had to get a builder to do that seperately and I would have been able to buy a cover cheaper in the local builders merchant myself. If you are worried about the installer why do you not ask him to give the names of a few people who he installed stoves for and visit them to see what you think of the job.
    If I had to choose again I would pick the Boru -I am very pleased with it.


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    #1857
    mikehn
    Registered Users Posts: 616 ✭✭✭mikehn


    H
    I hope someone can give me an opinion on the following, I have two fireplaces back to back serving my sitting room and kitchen/dining area. My central heating is gas and we find it quite expensive to run.The sitting room is an open fire and the kitchen/dining area has a gas fire inset in the fire place.
    We have been offered a Rayburn solid fuel cooker and would like to install it in place of the gas fire , it would not be plumbed into the heating system, simply to provide heat and use of the oven.
    The gather for both the fire places is quite low, is there any simple way to tap into the flue for the stove. I havent done anything like this before although I am am a pretty competent diyer if there is such a thing. Any suggestions would be appreciated.


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    #1858
    Brianne
    Registered Users Posts: 244 ✭✭Brianne


    The Stove Man wrote: »
    The life of a reasonably priced flexi liner is usually 5-10 years and then it will need to be replaced, the clay liners will last a lifetime if properly maintained and swept.

    We put in 904 flue liner which seemingly will last approx 20 years. Again this was recommended as being the best by Stoveman, a previous poster here.


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    #1859
    hernie
    Registered Users Posts: 140 ✭✭hernie


    I'm in the market to buy a stove. Originally I was looking at solid fuel/wood stoves and then the sales guy asked us had we considered a gas stove as they have higher efficiency. We already have gas hooked up for the central heating. I was looking at the Valor Dream Homeflame Black

    My question is which is cheaper to run? Is a 89% efficient gas stove cheaper to run than a 78% efficient solid fuel stove given that I would have to buy the fuel? Any advice much appreciated.


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    #1860
    Sparkinthedart
    Registered Users Posts: 17 ✭Sparkinthedart


    Hi all, looking to get a inset boiler stove to heat the water plus 1 double and 3 single rads? Any advise much appreciated, cheers.


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    #1861
    Brianne
    Registered Users Posts: 244 ✭✭Brianne


    What size is your room , also what size are the rads?


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