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Halfords Own Brand Oil?

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Comments

  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 16,620 ✭✭✭✭dr.fuzzenstein


    Been using Q8 10W40 oil from a motorfactors.It comes in a 20 litre drum and works out very cheaply compared to oil you buy in 4-5 liter containers.It's been used in the Mazda (1.8 litre petrol, 16 valve, DOHC) from around 40000 miles to currently around 100000 miles with genuine oil filters.The car actually runs better than when we bought it, because the previous owner wasn't as diligent about servicing it and uses next to no oil.Consider buying per 20 litre, you can also get different brands, it's much better value and you're sorted for a few oilchanges and topping up.Since I started buying barrels I never looked back.And the petrol stations must be splitting their sides everytime someone's buying a liter of oil.


  • Posts: 23,339 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    gpf101 wrote: »
    There's some right rubbish being spouted on this thread.

    TopGear haven't done a show on oil as yet and HonestJohn doesn't have anything about it either so folks are struggling :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,018 ✭✭✭knipex


    I used Comma Semi synthetic for years in my Seat Toledo (VW pdi) put 150k miles on that car before selling it (two years ago) and the new owner has put another 50K on it.

    Still going like a clock.

    Halfords oil is the exact same stuff.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,915 ✭✭✭GTE


    knipex wrote: »
    I used Comma Semi synthetic for years in my Seat Toledo (VW pdi) put 150k miles on that car before selling it (two years ago) and the new owner has put another 50K on it.

    Still going like a clock.

    Halfords oil is the exact same stuff.

    Do you mean TDI? What year?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,018 ✭✭✭knipex


    bbk wrote: »
    Do you mean TDI? What year?

    yes 1.9tdi registered June 2003.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,915 ✭✭✭GTE


    knipex wrote: »
    yes 1.9tdi registered June 2003.

    I'd really avoid semi synth in that engine. VW sent a service bulletin around years ago saying that its highly recommended to fill the engine with fully synth oil.

    In 2005 they said this:
    At the time of this printing, all of the engine oils
    Volkswagen is aware of that meet the exacting
    Volkswagen oil quality standard are synthetic-based.
    Thats 5 or 6 years since the PD engine was released and there were still no suitable semi synth oils. Another thread I read and a guy called up VW HQ and the rep said that engines with the wrong oil are ticking timebombs.

    I checked the Comma site and none of the 4 semi synth products meet VW505.01. Some only meet the VW505.00 spec which is for the older engine.

    EDIT:
    Hmm, its sold.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,018 ✭✭✭knipex


    bbk wrote: »
    I'd really avoid semi synth in that engine. VW sent a service bulletin around years ago saying that its highly recommended to fill the engine with fully synth oil.

    In 2005 they said this:

    Thats 5 or 6 years since the PD engine was released and there were still no suitable semi synth oils. Another thread I read and a guy called up VW HQ and the rep said that engines with the wrong oil are ticking timebombs.

    I checked the Comma site and none of the 4 semi synth products meet VW505.01. Some only meet the VW505.00 spec which is for the older engine.

    EDIT:
    Hmm, its sold.

    150K miles don't lie. Running like a clock, never gave a single problem, passed NCT with no issues, emissions were spot on. Never did anything to the engine except for standard services etc.

    Met the current owner over the weekend and it just passed another NCT, still going like a clock.

    Oh and Seat Main dealer was also using Comma Semi Synthetic. No spate of engine failures noted.

    My pint beign that Comma oil aint crap ergo halfords oil aint crap.


  • Posts: 23,339 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    It's mainly on the 150bhp 1.9 unit that not using the VW fully syn cause issue. The 90, 110 & 130 are a very different beast internally compared to the 150bhp iirc.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,915 ✭✭✭GTE


    knipex wrote: »
    150K miles don't lie. Running like a clock, never gave a single problem, passed NCT with no issues, emissions were spot on. Never did anything to the engine except for standard services etc.

    Met the current owner over the weekend and it just passed another NCT, still going like a clock.

    Oh and Seat Main dealer was also using Comma Semi Synthetic. No spate of engine failures noted.

    My pint beign that Comma oil aint crap ergo halfords oil aint crap.

    The problems associated with the oil and the PD TDI is engine wear which builds up over time. Nothing to do with emissions or any test that the car is subjected to in the NCT.

    http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/?f=4&t=8645

    With regards to RoverJames the 90 and 110 are VE TDI units, they are much more easy going on what oil you use and as you say much different to the PD's. The 90 was around before the mark 4's and the 110 is a derivative of the 90.

    The 130 and 150 are Pump Dusse TDIs which is where the problems lay along with the other PD engines in general due to the higher pressures in the engine.
    When the PD's came out VW issued the service bulletin shortly after so the problem doesnt exist for my engine however was grouped into the fully synth thing.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,018 ✭✭✭knipex


    bbk wrote: »
    The problems associated with the oil and the PD TDI is engine wear which builds up over time. Nothing to do with emissions or any test that the car is subjected to in the NCT.

    http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/?f=4&t=8645

    With regards to RoverJames the 90 and 110 are VE TDI units, they are much more easy going on what oil you use and as you say much different to the PD's. The 90 was around before the mark 4's and the 110 is a derivative of the 90.

    The 130 and 150 are Pump Dusse TDIs which is where the problems lay along with the other PD engines in general due to the higher pressures in the engine.
    When the PD's came out VW issued the service bulletin shortly after so the problem doesnt exist for my engine however was grouped into the fully synth thing.


    It was a 110bhp engine (nice engine btw)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 74 ✭✭notel70


    Hammertime wrote: »
    haven't read the whole thread I'm just picking on one point I saw.

    ANYONE who pays €50 for an own brand oil is off their rocker.

    I'm currently selling a 4.5l own brand 10w/40 semi synth for €20. And I'm making 6 quid a bottle.

    €50 is dick turpin stuff

    which is exactly why no one has mentioned buying oil at petrol stations, crap selection of crap oil


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,677 ✭✭✭mondeo


    notel70 wrote: »
    which is exactly why no one has mentioned buying oil at petrol stations, crap selection of crap oil

    What about SHELL motor oils? The Helix bunch? Their ok I used them before as they were readily available. Cars ran lovely and smooth with them but I don't use them anymore. Keep going back to the over priced Castrol stuff for some reason.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,946 ✭✭✭BeardyGit


    notel70 wrote: »
    which is exactly why no one has mentioned buying oil at petrol stations, crap selection of crap oil

    Ah now there's branding influence at its very best, isn't it? The level of ignorance on this thread with regard to oil qualities and brands is astounding.

    There's real science at work when it comes to oil production, specification compliance and application, and to assert that petrol stations sell crap oils just because they may be own brand or whatever is foolish and naive.

    In order for an engine oil to meet a particular specification the oil is subjected to a range of scientific tests, to ensure it 'does what it says on the tin'. This covers things like the shear rating, suspension properties for contaminants etc. No matter what the brand, if it meets the spec, it's up to the job required of it for that spec oil.

    Who sticks their label on it and how much the sheep-like motorist masses are prepared to pay for it more often than not has NOTHING to do with the actual quality or suitability of the oil.

    If your oil changes are frequent and appropriate to the useage of your vehicle, the only thing that really matters is that the oil meets the specification set out by the manufacturer. If they state it should meet a particular ACEA rating, comply to 505.01 or whatever, then pick an oil that meets this spec and be done with it. Any more you decide to spend on a short-life consumable is a pure waste of money for the average motorist, driving average cars, with average engines and lifespan.

    If it meets the spec it'll do the job it's required to do. Oil isn't some kind of magic elixer that'll keep your car running forever. It'll wear out anyway in other ways, so what's the point in paying stupid amounts of money for fully synthetic oils with super-duper additives when the life of the car has a limit in any case?

    If you want to know more, read Ed Hackett's summary which is published here:

    http://micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

    Ed's a chemist who spent decades working for the motor oil industry in the USA. If he says it's so, it's so.

    There's another article here that relates to motorcycle engine oils but I've found it to be a nice introduction in the past for folks who know sweet **** all about engine oils:

    http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

    Good luck.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 74 ✭✭notel70


    RoverCraft wrote: »
    Ah now there's branding influence at its very best, isn't it? The level of ignorance on this thread with regard to oil qualities and brands is astounding.

    There's real science at work when it comes to oil production, specification compliance and application, and to assert that petrol stations sell crap oils just because they may be own brand or whatever is foolish and naive.

    In order for an engine oil to meet a particular specification the oil is subjected to a range of scientific tests, to ensure it 'does what it says on the tin'. This covers things like the shear rating, suspension properties for contaminants etc. No matter what the brand, if it meets the spec, it's up to the job required of it for that spec oil.

    Who sticks their label on it and how much the sheep-like motorist masses are prepared to pay for it more often than not has NOTHING to do with the actual quality or suitability of the oil.

    If your oil changes are frequent and appropriate to the useage of your vehicle, the only thing that really matters is that the oil meets the specification set out by the manufacturer. If they state it should meet a particular ACEA rating, comply to 505.01 or whatever, then pick an oil that meets this spec and be done with it. Any more you decide to spend on a short-life consumable is a pure waste of money for the average motorist, driving average cars, with average engines and lifespan.

    If it meets the spec it'll do the job it's required to do. Oil isn't some kind of magic elixer that'll keep your car running forever. It'll wear out anyway in other ways, so what's the point in paying stupid amounts of money for fully synthetic oils with super-duper additives when the life of the car has a limit in any case?

    If you want to know more, read Ed Hackett's summary which is published here:

    http://micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

    Ed's a chemist who spent decades working for the motor oil industry in the USA. If he says it's so, it's so.

    There's another article here that relates to motorcycle engine oils but I've found it to be a nice introduction in the past for folks who know sweet **** all about engine oils:

    http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

    Good luck.

    Good points there

    My car needs 0W-30, and im not afraid to spend my hard earned money on one of the most important things that a car uses. My car doesnt get used that often but when it does it gets driven hard(once warmed up and within reason) so im not going into my local Top or topaz buying own brand 10w 40 crap.

    I buy my oil in bulk have a nice 60ltr barell of Castrol in the shed.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 16,620 ✭✭✭✭dr.fuzzenstein


    notel70 wrote: »
    Good points there

    My car needs 0W-30, and im not afraid to spend my hard earned money on one of the most important things that a car uses. My car doesnt get used that often but when it does it gets driven hard(once warmed up and within reason) so im not going into my local Top or topaz buying own brand 10w 40 crap.

    I buy my oil in bulk have a nice 60ltr barell of Castrol in the shed.

    I like it, though not all 10w40 is crap.
    Pray tell where you buy your oil in bulk? I usually get 30 litre drums, but a source for a better bargain is always appreciated.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,884 ✭✭✭✭mfceiling


    Lads i've a 2004 nissan kubistar van with 140,000 miles on the clock.
    I'm ready for an oil change soon and was wondering what oil to use.
    I don't mind spending a few quid on decent stuff.
    Is there an oil for higher mileage diesels or is a fully synthetic oil good to go.
    It's the 70 bhp 1.5dci engine


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 5,737 ✭✭✭MidlandsM


    mfceiling wrote: »
    Lads i've a 2004 nissan kubistar van with 140,000 miles on the clock.
    I'm ready for an oil change soon and was wondering what oil to use.
    I don't mind spending a few quid on decent stuff.
    Is there an oil for higher mileage diesels or is a fully synthetic oil good to go.
    It's the 70 bhp 1.5dci engine

    check the owners booklet if you have it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 10 amm2


    Guys,

    Anybody knows/have experience where to buy Motul or Amsol oils? Not willing to get it from ebay or sites I know nothing about;
    Interested in 5w30 fully synthetic 504-507;


    Cheers


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 5,737 ✭✭✭MidlandsM


    amm2 wrote: »
    Guys,

    Anybody knows/have experience where to buy Motul or Amsol oils? Not willing to get it from ebay or sites I know nothing about;
    Interested in 5w30 fully synthetic 504-507;


    Cheers

    why do you need this exact brand?
    whats wrong with getting it from ebay from a 100% feedback (or nearly 100%)seller and paying by payapl to keep you protected?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 200 ✭✭grudgebringer


    For my tuppence worth, I would expect that as already mentioned here many times, providing the Oil meets the specification required by the Manufacturer, i.e. 10W-40 etc, then the brand has little impact as long as the Oil service duration is not exceeded.

    I guess for some brands, they manufacture their oils to last longer without viscosity becoming too high for proper lubrication. I would expect, as extra attention and expense has been given to these oils, that they would cost more, but for the generic oils that are rated as 5W-30 etc they meet the exact standrad they are required to meet.

    So - if you change the oil in your vehicle with the required specification oil at the required intervals, then IMO halfords oil would do the same job as lets say a castrol/Helix oil of the same standard.

    Personally, even though all this is said, I still use Castrol oil by personal preferance, I have tried various different oils but feel the car runs better with Magnatec oil. This may very well just be a figment of my imagination as I have never had any specific problems when using other oils rather than Castrol, I have even used the Shell Helix oils and was pleased with the performance.


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  • Posts: 23,339 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    notel70 wrote: »
    Good points there

    ................so im not going into my local Top or topaz buying own brand 10w 40 crap.
    .

    You seem to have missed the points in the article, if your car needed 10w40 why is Topaz own brand 10w40 crap ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,279 ✭✭✭PaulKK


    notel70 wrote:

    I buy my oil in bulk have a nice 60ltr barell of Castrol in the shed.
    I like it, though not all 10w40 is crap.
    Pray tell where you buy your oil in bulk? I usually get 30 litre drums, but a source for a better bargain is always appreciated.

    Where are ye getting the oil in bulk lads and how much is it costing?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 542 ✭✭✭groupb


    For my tuppence worth, I would expect that as already mentioned here many times, providing the Oil meets the specification required by the Manufacturer, i.e. 10W-40 etc, then the brand has little impact as long as the Oil service duration is not exceeded.

    I guess for some brands, they manufacture their oils to last longer without viscosity becoming too high for proper lubrication. I would expect, as extra attention and expense has been given to these oils, that they would cost more, but for the generic oils that are rated as 5W-30 etc they meet the exact standrad they are required to meet.

    So - if you change the oil in your vehicle with the required specification oil at the required intervals, then IMO halfords oil would do the same job as lets say a castrol/Helix oil of the same standard.

    Personally, even though all this is said, I still use Castrol oil by personal preferance, I have tried various different oils but feel the car runs better with Magnatec oil. This may very well just be a figment of my imagination as I have never had any specific problems when using other oils rather than Castrol, I have even used the Shell Helix oils and was pleased with the performance.

    My mx5 suffers less from sticky/noisy tappets since I swapped from mobile 1 to magnatec. I have to honest , I thought the magnatec was just a marketing exercise but I decided to give it a go once and it has made a difference.


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