soild fuel stove advise

charlie b · 01-02-2010 7:10pm

anybody out there know where the best place to get a granite hearth made to size been given price of 250 euro how does that sound???

Rainbowsend · 02-02-2010 11:36am

I would imagine any stonemason that makes headstones would be willing and able.........dont have a clue on price though, I was lucky my son is a stone mason and happened to have a suitable piece

They are available from the placed that sell the stoves but are expensive and are normally slate.

I would check around the headstone guys.

celtboy1888 · 14-02-2010 12:46pm

if anyone is fitting these stoves...make sure you read the book that comes with the stove...and building regs 2007 section j...

i am a chimney sweep and i have to get stoves removed every week due to wrongly installed!!

if you are using a 'flexi flue'...you have to insulate around it..the space between the flexi flue and the existing flue liner...if not condensation will build up when it is in use...

cnocbui · 14-02-2010 2:40pm

You could try http://www.silkestone.ie/

They supplied me with granite tiles for my shower and were good on price and nice to deal with.

Carlow52 · 14-02-2010 8:05pm

celtboy1888 wrote: »

if anyone is fitting these stoves...make sure you read the book that comes with the stove...and building regs 2007 section j...

i am a chimney sweep and i have to get stoves removed every week due to wrongly installed!!

if you are using a 'flexi flue'...you have to insulate around it..the space between the flexi flue and the existing flue liner...if not condensation will build up when it is in use...

1: would be nice to see some of the more common 'wrongly installed' issues listed.

2: How do you propose insulating properly, given that the flexi is pulled down the existing flue and will be touching it in various places. The key to reduced condensation is hot flue gases and no slow burning

celtboy1888 · 14-02-2010 9:15pm

Carlow52 wrote: »

1: would be nice to see some of the more common 'wrongly installed' issues listed.

2: How do you propose insulating properly, given that the flexi is pulled down the existing flue and will be touching it in various places. The key to reduced condensation is hot flue gases and no slow burning

1. installed straight into an existing open fire, with just the opening bricked up...the soot falls down the back of it...

2. too close to presses and other 'flammable materials..

3. installed into an 'open' flue...no lining at all.

4. flexi flue not insulated..and when you go to sweep...it moves and can rip.

if you are fitting a flexi flue, you have to insulate...regardless of the clearance between the existing flue and the new one..

we always scan the chimney prior to installation of any new appliance, or if the customer is changing from one appliance to another..i.e coal to gas etc.

cnocbui · 15-02-2010 10:40am

Carlow52 wrote: »

2: How do you propose insulating properly, given that the flexi is pulled down the existing flue and will be touching it in various places. The key to reduced condensation is hot flue gases and no slow burning

You can get some degree of control over the spots that touch by manipulating the liner before and during filling. I don't think mine is touching in more than one or two spots at bends.

Even in a worse case scenario,you are still looking at insulating 99% of the surface area of the liner

Carlow52 · 16-02-2010 12:26pm

cnocbui and celtboy1888: tks for feedback: what insulation is used most: vermiculite?

muggyog · 16-02-2010 1:46pm

Not sure you are entirely correct, celtboy. Excerpt from here , "For solid fuel and wood, the space around the liner is normally back-filled with perlite or vermiculite but the fill may be omitted if you are confident that there will be no condensation." As with any condensation, ventilation plays a critical part. I have an old draughty house ( brick chimney flue ) so my flexiflue is uninsulated, in a modern airtight house the flue might have to be insulated .

cnocbui · 16-02-2010 2:54pm

Carlow52 wrote: »

cnocbui and celtboy1888: tks for feedback: what insulation is used most: vermiculite?

That's what I used. Did a great job.

celtboy1888 · 16-02-2010 4:49pm

muggyog wrote: »

Not sure you are entirely correct, celtboy. Excerpt from here , "For solid fuel and wood, the space around the liner is normally back-filled with perlite or vermiculite but the fill may be omitted if you are confident that there will be no condensation." As with any condensation, ventilation plays a critical part. I have an old draughty house ( brick chimney flue ) so my flexiflue is uninsulated, in a modern airtight house the flue might have to be insulated .

so whats the point in fitting a stove? ll heat goes up the chimnney?

as for your flue..you could insulate it f you wanted to?

whitelightrider · 05-03-2010 10:35am

Hi celtboy, I have a stove installed in our new build. My cousin installed it as he did his own. He installed the stove and used about 1 meter of flexi flue. This was pushed into the existing opening and sealed and then sealed around the stove.

Its venting into the existing flue. Is this ok, correct?

celtboy1888 · 05-03-2010 2:52pm

whitelightrider wrote: »

Hi celtboy, I have a stove installed in our new build. My cousin installed it as he did his own. He installed the stove and used about 1 meter of flexi flue. This was pushed into the existing opening and sealed and then sealed around the stove.

Its venting into the existing flue. Is this ok, correct?

well hard to say, if i cant see it, but ye say 1mtr of flexi...is it the right one? does it conform to building regs 2007??

>>>

Features of the Flexflue chimney liner

Class 1 twin walled flexible flue liner.
Multifuel type liner suitable for use with multifuel burning stoves, fires or boilers.
Conforms to European standard EN1856-2-2004 tightness class P1 requirements for venting gas, liquid or solid fuel.
Superior stability of the seam due to the three layers of interlocked steel. The outer corrugated layer provides a protective casing to minimise any damage during installation and to protect the inner layer from corrosion due to attack from residual deposits.
Bending diameter of 3-4 times the pipe diameter giving the pipe maximum flexibility.

some people just connect a flexi to the rear outlet of stove and run it up chimney...but it needs to be properly sealed , if it is an insert stove, if it is to sit outside the flue, like on the hearth...the flexi/steel inlet pipe can be no longer than 150mm on the horizontal..hope this helps

whitelightrider · 05-03-2010 4:14pm

celtboy1888 wrote: »

well hard to say, if i cant see it, but ye say 1mtr of flexi...is it the right one? does it conform to building regs 2007??

>>>

Features of the Flexflue chimney liner

Class 1 twin walled flexible flue liner.

Multifuel type liner suitable for use with multifuel burning stoves, fires or boilers.

Conforms to European standard EN1856-2-2004 tightness class P1 requirements for venting gas, liquid or solid fuel.

Superior stability of the seam due to the three layers of interlocked steel. The outer corrugated layer provides a protective casing to minimise any damage during installation and to protect the inner layer from corrosion due to attack from residual deposits.

Bending diameter of 3-4 times the pipe diameter giving the pipe maximum flexibility.

some people just connect a flexi to the rear outlet of stove and run it up chimney...but it needs to be properly sealed , if it is an insert stove, if it is to sit outside the flue, like on the hearth...the flexi/steel inlet pipe can be no longer than 150mm on the horizontal..hope this helps

Sounds exactly the way we have it. We used the fire cement that came with the stove to seal the part that attached to the back of the stove.

celtboy1888 · 05-03-2010 4:19pm

whitelightrider wrote: »

Sounds exactly the way we have it. We used the fire cement that came with the stove to seal the part that attached to the back of the stove.

personally speaking..i always try to use heat resistant silicone where possible..it expands and contracts with out coming away from the surface like fire cement..

whitelightrider · 05-03-2010 4:58pm

celtboy1888 wrote: »

personallyspeaking..i always try to ued heat risitant silicone where possible..it expands and contracts with out coming away from the surface like fire cement..

Deadly. Ill try that over the weekend. I noticed that the fire cement does flake off.

gsxr1 · 06-03-2010 11:20pm

whitelightrider wrote: »

Deadly. Ill try that over the weekend. I noticed that the fire cement does flake off.

just check the tube for temperature range. My flu has got cherry red on a full blast. Its had to imagine any type of silicone resist that temp.

tedshredsonfire · 08-03-2010 3:34pm

gsxr1 wrote: »

just check the tube for temperature range. My flu has got cherry red on a full blast. Its had to imagine any type of silicone resist that temp.

+1 I jave seen heat resistant silicone go up in flames more than once. Fire cement is the job.

highdef · 08-03-2010 4:06pm

whitelightrider wrote: »

Hi celtboy, I have a stove installed in our new build. My cousin installed it as he did his own. He installed the stove and used about 1 meter of flexi flue. This was pushed into the existing opening and sealed and then sealed around the stove.

Its venting into the existing flue. Is this ok, correct?

I'm getting a stove installed soon and plan to have a soot door at the back of the fireplace, on the outside of the house. The builder said that I don't need a chimney liner as it's a new chimney but if I do install one, how does the soot box thingy connect up to the flue pipe ?

makeorbrake · 09-03-2010 3:07pm

Hi. I just came across this product - which is being used to line walls of chimney where fireback has been removed. Its supposed to have an insulating effect.

I never heard mention of this stuff when I installed my own stove 18 months ago. Just wondering to what extent it insulates??? I ask as i know when stove is being used, there is some loss of heat - as its being absorbed by the walls of the chimney surrounding the stove (with benefit of hindsight, stove could have done with being that little bit further forward).

10-10-20 · 09-03-2010 4:14pm

Unless you have valid concerns over the heatloss on the outside of the wall, I don't see a huge point in this.
Any chimney stack which is made of brick will absorb heat over the duration of the lit period and will mainly release this back into the room over the next few hours.
My chimney is a feature of my livingroom and is a very imposing bare-brick structure.
It releases the heat from the fire back into the room over nearly 18 hours.
I would only consider adding insulation to the rear of the chimney if I had excessive heat loss at that point.

leojake · 11-03-2010 2:50pm

HI I AM THINKING OF PUTTING IN A MULTI FUEL STOVE ANY IDEAS

ttm · 11-03-2010 3:46pm

leojake wrote: »

HI I AM THINKING OF PUTTING IN A MULTI FUEL STOVE ANY IDEAS

Yeh READ THIS THREAD

but honestly how longs a piece of string? Try and be a little more specific, if nothing else describe what your starting with, current fireplace and type/state of chimney.

makeorbrake · 11-03-2010 3:53pm

ttm wrote: »

Yeh READ THIS THREAD

Dempo1 · 11-03-2010 3:58pm

No advice but looking for advice on stainless steel chimneys, they are god damned expensive, almost three times the price of the stove. I know they have to double insulated, if anyone as advice on where to get a stainless steel chimney as a good price i would appreciate some direction!

Thanks in advance

ttm · 11-03-2010 4:58pm

Dempo1 wrote: »

No advice but looking for advice on stainless steel chimneys, they are god damned expensive, almost three times the price of the stove. I know they have to double insulated, if anyone as advice on where to get a stainless steel chimney as a good price i would appreciate some direction!

Thanks in advance

I can't really help on price but again a bit more info might help others help

Are you lining a chimney or creating a new one to go up outside the house with insulated sections of ss pipe? If you are lining a chimney then you probably need the double walled pipe, the spec is in this thread somewhere and not insulated pipe, the gap beteen the pipe and the chimney is then insulated with vermiculite (hunt around for vermiculite as I've seen some very expensive bags if you pick the wrong supplier)

Then how much was the stove if it was a 500euro or less job then 3 times the price might be OK but if the stove was a couple of grand then 3 times the price would be expensive.

Dempo1 · 11-03-2010 5:24pm

ttm wrote: »

I can't really help on price but again a bit more info might help others help

Are you lining a chimney or creating a new one to go up outside the house with insulated sections of ss pipe? If you are lining a chimney then you probably need the double walled pipe, the spec is in this thread somewhere and not insulated pipe, the gap beteen the pipe and the chimney is then insulated with vermiculite (hunt around for vermiculite as I've seen some very expensive bags if you pick the wrong supplier)

Then how much was the stove if it was a 500euro or less job then 3 times the price might be OK but if the stove was a couple of grand then 3 times the price would be expensive.

You hit it on the nail, my situation is trying to install a stove into a log cabin style extension, the exterior walls are cladded in hard wood on marine ply, insulation and then plaster board finish on inside. Its an extremely large room and high ceiling hence the need to compliment existing oil central heating. My entire cottage is single story with loft so the stainless steel chimney would only need to be approx 10ft from the el blow. Just seems to be outrageously expensive and half the price a cement chimney would cost (unfortunately not an option with the wood finish exterior):(

ttm · 11-03-2010 7:00pm

Dempo1 wrote: »

You hit it on the nail, my situation is trying to install a stove into a log cabin style extension, the exterior walls are cladded in hard wood on marine ply, insulation and then plaster board finish on inside. Its an extremely large room and high ceiling hence the need to compliment existing oil central heating. My entire cottage is single story with loft so the stainless steel chimney would only need to be approx 10ft from the el blow. Just seems to be outrageously expensive and half the price a cement chimney would cost (unfortunately not an option with the wood finish exterior):(

So is the stove on a wall or in the middle of a room? I have a woodburning cooker against a wall of a wooden extension but I did put in a blockwork wall to back the stove.

Sounds like middle of the room in which case you don't actually need insulated pipe from the elbow. Internally you don't really need insulated pipe at all except where you go out through the roof. You could do the first section up to the height of the loft in vitrious enamal pipe (for the look of it) then just a short section of insulated pipe as you go from the loft floor out through the roof - if you can't do that I'm sure someone will say

Give us some prices (and sizes) as for 10ft it sounds expensive but without actual figures its hard to say.

Dempo1 · 11-03-2010 7:59pm

ttm wrote: »

So is the stove on a wall or in the middle of a room? I have a woodburning cooker against a wall of a wooden extension but I did put in a blockwork wall to back the stove.

Sounds like middle of the room in which case you don't actually need insulated pipe from the elbow. Internally you don't really need insulated pipe at all except where you go out through the roof. You could do the first section up to the height of the loft in vitrious enamal pipe (for the look of it) then just a short section of insulated pipe as you go from the loft floor out through the roof - if you can't do that I'm sure someone will say

Give us some prices (and sizes) as for 10ft it sounds expensive but without actual figures its hard to say.

Hi again,

Unfortunately this was after thought so i don't want to disturb the roof, i was kinda hoping to sit the stove away from the wall, free standing as such so i guess i stuck with the insulated chimney, this said, i noticed you mentioned only the section going through the wall needs to be insulated so perhaps this might keep the cost down. The current quotes are running between €900 and €1,200 and this does not include installing costs but my plumbers a decent chap, thank god! the stove only cost €299, small enough but should do the trick nicely

kodak · 11-03-2010 10:18pm

Hi,

I got my flue off mi flues in summer hill. They will quote you on flue if you send them a list of flue parts. I think they will also design it for you, if you need it.

Perhaps you should look at Doherty FLues in the UK. http://www.docherty.co.uk/#Vitmaster

They are very good products. Not sure about a stockist here thou.. I got some thrown in with my stove, came from england..

soild fuel stove advise

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