How to service your car

canon5571 · 04-03-2009 3:32pm

Great info here on this thread. My query may be in the wrong thread but I have a 79' MK2 ford escort with a 1600 x-flow engine. I am in the process of doing a basic service. Just on the spark plug issue, I got 4 NGK spark plugs in the autofactors. The Haynes manual says the gap should be adjusted to 0.6mm.Would a spark plug gap matter on this engine and if so, how do you gap them??

Hal1 · 04-03-2009 4:07pm

Those NGK plugs are pregapped. If you are unsure you can use a 'feeler gauge' which checks the spacing between the plug and tip. Have a look here to see how its done.

Mycroft H · 04-03-2009 4:11pm

When refilling the engine with oil I fill it up half way and then run it for five minutes. This allows you to see if any leaks devolp in the filter or the sump plug. Then you can top it up until near full when the engine has cooled again.

Do NOT OVERFILL the oil. It is almost as bad as having no oil in the engine at all.

Another tip. When removing the sump plug remove it quickly cos if you dont, old oil will run up your sleeve.

Voodoomelon · 04-03-2009 4:20pm

tm2204 wrote: »

Is the brake fluid easy to replace? Is there a single bleed point on the reservoir or do you bleed at the individual brake assemblies?

Cheers.

Easy as pie, just time consuming. You bleed each caliper at each wheel until the fluid runs clear, and you should start with the caliper furthest from the resevoir under the bonnet, ie, the wheel that is diagonally at the back from the resevoir at the front. You'll need a brake bleeding kit from the likes of Halfords for about €25 if you want to do it by yourself. The hardest part is getting the wheels off.

SilverHeron · 04-03-2009 4:23pm

Did you use an angle grinder to cut the top off a 7-up bottle?.. . !

Volvoboy · 04-03-2009 5:14pm

SilverHeron wrote: »

Did you use an angle grinder to cut the top off a 7-up bottle?.. . !

Yea couldnt find a blade, or sword.

tm2204 · 05-03-2009 12:34am

Voodoomelon wrote: »

Easy as pie, just time consuming. You bleed each caliper at each wheel until the fluid runs clear, and you should start with the caliper furthest from the resevoir under the bonnet, ie, the wheel that is diagonally at the back from the resevoir at the front. You'll need a brake bleeding kit from the likes of Halfords for about €25 if you want to do it by yourself. The hardest part is getting the wheels off.

My calipers have bleed valves on them that you just open to bleed. Whats this brake bleeding kit?

Will bleeding all calipers empty the brake fluid reservoir and flush the system or do you need to do anything else?

My car has ESP and ABS is there anything to factor in here due to these?

Cheers,

Hal1 · 05-03-2009 1:55am

The brake bleeding kit is basically a bottle fitted with a manual pump and a tube that goes down inside the bottle, tube end is placed over the bleed nipple.

You should put some brake fluid inside the bottle, so tube is submerged and no air can enter back into the system while bleeding your brakes. You start with the side furthest away from the drivers side.

Two man job btw, each time the brake is pumped up, and you quater turn the bleed nipple allowing fluid to enter bleedin bottle and then close the bleed nipple each time until no air bubbles are visable and fluid runs clear, also keep the brake fluid resevoir topped up cause air can enter there also. Hope this is clear enough for you to understand, I only learned to do this myself a few weeks ago, thanks to the guys advise on here. There are plenty vids on the inet illustrating this proceedure.

Voodoomelon · 05-03-2009 2:08am

You don't need to pump the brake pedal if you use a bleeding kit that attaches to a spare wheel as a source of air. You simply connect the whole lot up, open a caliper valve and let the resevoir empty to about a quarter of its capacity.

You then fill the bleed kit bottle with new brake fluid and start the bleeding process. The pressure from the air in the spare wheel forces the old fluid out of each line and sucks in the new fluid. You just sit back and watch it do it by itself.

All you have to do is open and close each caliper and keep the bottle topped up. Nothing to it. However its important to make sure there's no air in the lines.

And you can bleed cars with ABS and ESP no problem, they're simply electronic systems that have little to do with the hydraulics of the brakes.

IK09 · 05-03-2009 3:17pm

nice one volvoboy. slick savings

Raiser · 18-03-2009 5:57pm

Where's good for buying tools and stuff online?

Current shopping list is:

Brake Caliper Wind Back Tool Kit - Like the Draper one here http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=15478

ShowImage.aspx?Type=3&File=DRA33606.jpg&Man=DRA&Size=200&Save=18

ShowImage.aspx?Type=3&File=DRA33606.jpg&Man=DRA&Size=200&Save=18

A decent oil filter tool - have strap one and its a curse - Anyone recommend the best type? Is the below a good all rounder?

media.nl;jsessionid=0a01054f1f43837f106970bd458283519f9424d1863a.e3eTaxiNaN0Te34Pa38Ta38Oahf0?id=1116&c=317638&h=a4647b2498ccdb079ac5&resizeid=-1&resizeh=150&resizew=150

media.nl;jsessionid=0a01054f1f43837f106970bd458283519f9424d1863a.e3eTaxiNaN0Te34Pa38Ta38Oahf0?id=1116&c=317638&h=a4647b2498ccdb079ac5&resizeid=-1&resizeh=150&resizew=150

Also want to replace my brake fluid - so looking for recommendations for a decent kit - spare tyre one sounds ideal as have no helperer.

Tipsy Mac · 18-03-2009 6:08pm

Raiser wrote: »

A decent oil filter tool - have strap one and its a curse - Anyone recommend the best type? Is the below a good all rounder?

Really depends on where your oil filter is located, each one has it's own benefits.

Guy:Incognito · 18-03-2009 6:31pm

I got one of these in Halfords (shock horror

) http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CAR-VAN-BIKE-OIL-FILTER-REMOVER-WRENCH-REMOVAL-TOOL_W0QQitemZ280323456107QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_3?hash=item280323456107&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318

Its a bit different (round , grooved prongs) ,gets in to tight spots and hasnt let me down yet. Just connect it to your ratchet and away you go, the harder you turn the tighterit grips.

Raiser · 24-03-2009 11:15am

Thanks folks - will check it out......

Other than that if anyone recommends any online Tool Suppliers who'll ship to Ireland reasonably then please let me know

rebel.ranter · 24-03-2009 11:26am

Voodoomelon wrote: »

..... a bleeding kit that attaches to a spare wheel as a source of air......
........However its important to make sure there's no air in the lines.

Hi Voodoomelon I have bled brakes the old fashioned way many times. However is the comments you make here not contradictory? Air will cause the brake fluid to go off, surely providing air into the reservoir is not helping the fluid in there?

I know you did not design or make the kit, not having a go at you or anything, just questioning the logic of such a tool.

jimogr · 03-04-2009 12:12am

Basic question: For the oil change do you need to put the car on axle stands or similar?

I've changed sparkes and coils myself but never did the oil because I assumed you'd need a lift so you can get under it - wouldn't trust a jack.

Car's a focus

Volvoboy · 03-04-2009 1:16am

jimogr wrote: »

Basic question: For the oil change do you need to put the car on axle stands or similar?

I've changed sparkes and coils myself but never did the oil because I assumed you'd need a lift so you can get under it - wouldn't trust a jack.

Car's a focus

You could get axle stands in your local motor factors (at most €50 for a set)

The jack thats in the car wouldnt be the most safest option.

Voodoomelon · 03-04-2009 1:25am

rebel.ranter wrote: »

Hi Voodoomelon I have bled brakes the old fashioned way many times. However is the comments you make here not contradictory? Air will cause the brake fluid to go off, surely providing air into the reservoir is not helping the fluid in there?

I know you did not design or make the kit, not having a go at you or anything, just questioning the logic of such a tool.

Hi Rebel.
The kit is designed to use air pressure to push down on the fluid thats in the resevoir, it doesn't actually introduce any air into the lines themselves. Think of it as normal atmospheric pressure pressing down on the resevoirs fluid, however many times more forceful.
To inject air into the fluid, you would have to have a tube that actually enters the fluid in the resevoir. The kit I use creates a seal with the top of the resevoir and just compresses the fluid downwards, as opposed to actually introducing air into the fluid itself.

m5ex9oqjawdg2i · 16-04-2009 12:23am

A bit of a stupid question, but where exactly would the oil filter be situated? I guess it's in the same general area on the majority of cars? I have a '01 Ford Focus.

I have a pit in my garage I can use instead of jacks and whatnot.

I am not due a service for another few thousand miles, but it would be nice to look at before that. Thanks volvoboy

Rowley Birkin QC · 16-04-2009 12:26am

Depends, is your car diesel or petrol?

Voodoomelon · 16-04-2009 12:33am

Fletcher Ugly Scout wrote: »

A bit of a stupid question, but where exactly would the oil filter be situated? I guess it's in the same general area on the majority of cars? I have a '01 Ford Focus.

I have a pit in my garage I can use instead of jacks and whatnot.

I am not due a service for another few thousand miles, but it would be nice to look at before that. Thanks volvoboy

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Where_is_the_oil_filter_located_on_a_2001_Ford_Focus

The grey cylinder to the left of the focus emblem on the engine head cover im guessing. Actually that might not be it, it just looks similar to mine.

kona · 12-05-2009 9:51pm

You never primed the filter. You should fill it with oil before you re-fit to ensure there are no parts not getting oil when you re-start.

When you bleed the brakes there is a pattern you do it in depending on the design of the system.

The gunsons kit is kinda misleading if you fire fluid into the system at 35psi or whatever your spare tyre is at, Im pretty sure you wil blow a seal. 15 psi is much more sedate.

HashSlinging · 13-05-2009 11:21am

I recently got my oil and oil filter changed on my car (2.0TDi) what else needs to be done as part of a service. Do I just need a fuel filter and a new air filter? car is running like its clogged up. everything else is fine. Have some new brake disks (drilled and grooved) coming my way which are going to the garage to be fitted.

kona · 13-05-2009 11:51am

HashSlinging wrote: »

I recently got my oil and oil filter changed on my car (2.0TDi) what else needs to be done as part of a service. Do I just need a fuel filter and a new air filter? car is running like its clogged up. everything else is fine. Have some new brake disks (drilled and grooved) coming my way which are going to the garage to be fitted.

yes If your car is clogged do the fuel filter and clean your injectors, Id do you glow plugs too.

HashSlinging · 13-05-2009 11:59am

Think the glow plugs are ok, there is an issue with it running a bit rough at idle where it fluctuates, do you think this could be the glow plugs as the throttle body was cleaned already.

kona · 13-05-2009 12:01pm

HashSlinging wrote: »

Think the glow plugs are ok, there is an issue with it running a bit rough at idle where it fluctuates, do you think this could be the glow plugs as the throttle body was cleaned already.

probably a vacuum leak, see if you can hear any kinda hissing noises. Check your pipes for rips etc.

Mr.David · 13-05-2009 12:17pm

HashSlinging wrote: »

Think the glow plugs are ok, there is an issue with it running a bit rough at idle where it fluctuates, do you think this could be the glow plugs as the throttle body was cleaned already.

If its not the TB, sounds like the MAF to me ....

Captain Slow IRL · 13-05-2009 1:40pm

Voodoomelon wrote: »

The grey cylinder to the left of the focus emblem on the engine head cover im guessing. Actually that might not be it, it just looks similar to mine.

That's an engine mount - the oil filter is accesed underneath the car, I'm pretty sure it's at the front of the engine.

HashSlinging · 14-05-2009 1:10pm

Just discovered the lock nut is missing from my car :rolleyes: anyone know how to remove the nuts without the lock...

20goto10 · 27-06-2009 6:31pm

Just a word of warning to any amateurs out there like myself who are attempting to do an oil change for the first time. I spent the guts of €100 on equipment (a decent jack, axle stands, oil and filter). Unfortunately I didn't get very far because the drain nut is wedged tight. I've tried and tried and tried with all my strength but the bastard thing won't budge :mad: I guess they must have screwed it tight using a heavy duty power tool.

Now I've to spend another €130 or there abouts getting it done in a garage. Bummer eh? Should have listened to the wife when she said somethings going to go wrong

Delta Kilo · 27-06-2009 10:32pm

It shouldn't have been that tight. If you had something to slide on the end of the socket to give you more leverage it might have helped. I've also seen people levering the socket handle down with a crowbar by levering it against the sump with a piece of timber between the crowbar and the sump. Not recommended though.

tell the mechanic not to tighten it super tight. They will have it up on a lift so they will be able to swing out of the nut. its harder to get a good pull on it when you are lying on your back.

Not to sound as if you were a fool or anything but are you sure you were turning it the correct way? Its the opposite to what you think because it is upside down.

Hal1 · 28-06-2009 12:22am

This very problem was recently discussed on here. Do a search and you will find the thread or maybe a good citizen of the forum will find it.

I had this problem myself and solved it with some wd40 (it works, ok

) and a hammer, spanner and a bit of sweet talk and off she comes.

Donnelly117 · 28-06-2009 1:59am

very good post, should be stickied (if it isnt already)

Eric Cartman · 28-06-2009 2:08am

HashSlinging wrote: »

Just discovered the lock nut is missing from my car :rolleyes: anyone know how to remove the nuts without the lock...

welcome to an awful awful world my friend, i ended up paying 160 euro for the privilege of such a removal

Donnelly117 · 28-06-2009 2:31am

HashSlinging wrote: »

Just discovered the lock nut is missing from my car :rolleyes: anyone know how to remove the nuts without the lock...

thats the point of a locknut, it could cost a fair bit to have another one cut

johndaman66 · 28-06-2009 2:52am

Good thread volvoboy. Will be relied upon by many in these recessionary times no doubt I'm sure. Have always done as much work on the car as I could myself and well with the extortionate hourly rates garages and certain mechanics charge its well worth learning the basics and getting your hands dirty.

Would you be able to advise on the procedure involved in changing a complete timing belt kit including water pump and coolant on a 99 vectra 1.6 16v please? Pretty please?:)

20goto10 · 30-06-2009 1:36pm

Hal1 wrote: »

This very problem was recently discussed on here. Do a search and you will find the thread or maybe a good citizen of the forum will find it.

I had this problem myself and solved it with some wd40 (it works, ok ) and a hammer, spanner and a bit of sweet talk and off she comes.

I contemplated some WD40 and a hammer but I really didn't want to fcuk it up. Last thing I need is a rounded nut!! I really should have at least tried the WD40....I'll give it a go next time. I figured they've wedged this tight with a power tool and only a power tool is going to get it off. I'm booked in for a service now so I'll ask them not to tighten it too tight and give it another go in 6 months time. Very frustrating though

stevie.enright · 04-07-2009 4:51pm

Unsure if its being asked in the thread already but is anyone aware of how to remove an oil filter in a 2002 mondeo 1.8 litre? I was talking to a former Ford mechanic not too long ago and he told me it is black round yoke at the front of the engine in the middle underneath it. Thats grand I see it it and everything but can't for the life of me turn it and I wouldn't be too weak - never have a problem loosening conventional oil filters in other cars.

Is any special tool needed to slacken it? It does turn in the same direction as per the sump bolt and which one would expect, or is it a reverse thread on it?

Anybody out there with any knowledge of it?

blahblah06 · 04-07-2009 7:04pm

hi steve had the same car as you. you need to get a special tool for the fords it can either be a belt or a chain that tightens around the filter and you twist it to loosen it off. there is a name to them but I cant think of it

colm_mcm · 04-07-2009 7:07pm

blahblah06 wrote: »

you need to get a special tool for the fords it can either be a belt or a chain that tightens around the filter and you twist it to loosen it off.

Just called a chain wrench I think .

Hal1 · 04-07-2009 7:31pm

blahblah06 wrote: »

hi steve had the same car as you. you need to get a special tool for the fords it can either be a belt or a chain that tightens around the filter and you twist it to loosen it off. there is a name to them but I cant think of it

It's called a screwdriver.

Just put something underneath to soak any spillages.

Esel · 05-07-2009 3:49am

Hal1 wrote: »

It's called a screwdriver. Just put something underneath to soak any spillages.

Dodgy advice, imo. What happens if you can't shift the oil filter after you've punctured it with the screwdriver?

Ferris · 05-07-2009 12:11pm

stevie.enright wrote: »

Is any special tool needed to slacken it? It does turn in the same direction as per the sump bolt and which one would expect, or is it a reverse thread on it?

Anybody out there with any knowledge of it?

A pair of marigolds will actually work wonders, gives you more grip.

Pink or yellow ones work especially well:D.

Hal1 · 05-07-2009 1:06pm

esel wrote: »

Dodgy advice, imo. What happens if you can't shift the oil filter after you've punctured it with the screwdriver?

That method worked for me after previous mechanic put it on too tight. Remember when doing this job OP hand tight will do and smear some oil on the thread of the oil filter before you install it.

peasant · 05-07-2009 2:28pm

stevie.enright wrote: »

Is any special tool needed to slacken it? It does turn in the same direction as per the sump bolt and which one would expect, or is it a reverse thread on it?

any of these will do the trick

Carlow52 · 05-07-2009 2:37pm

Just read the OP's post and dont see anywhere that the car needs to be supported by something other than the car jack, purely on safety grounds.

beachlife · 05-07-2009 3:05pm

Hal1 wrote: »

It's called a screwdriver. Just put something underneath to soak any spillages.

Think it's a cartridge type filter on that car. you only replace the element. so don't stick a screw driver near it

Volvoboy · 05-07-2009 5:53pm

Carlow52 wrote: »

Just read the OP's post and dont see anywhere that the car needs to be supported by something other than the car jack, purely on safety grounds.

Your right.

poxx · 05-07-2009 11:42pm

conlonbmw wrote: »

If you are a newbie and Plug is scaring you, then its best to have a mate with you who knows a lot more than you do when you try it.

No you dont, stop tryin to complicate it

Sometimes?, so then you are saying you do not need a primer all the time

Soon many more people will realise how easy it is to service cars.

They will realise how they have been ripped off for years by paying 200 quid for a "routine service" that has cost a garage no more than 70 quid.

They will realise how the garage makes 25% profit on parts.

They will finally understand that when you become skilled in mechanics that the 2 hour labour a garage charges actually only takes 40 mins to 1 hour to perform at home on your own.

point 1 the fuel system on this car runs at a max pressure of about 1800 bar, if you have any starvation of fuel you can very easly wreck the high pressure pump or the injectors (approx 6 grand to repair complete system). also at cranking speed you are looking at around 300 bar (your tyre has a pressure of about 2 bar) if you introduce a leak on the high pressure side it will have enough pressure to pierce your skin instantly (hypodermic pressure) but you probably already knew all this as you are a SKILLED MECHANIC point 2 that takes 4 years and a good teacher not a clown with a lap top to start become one of them

stevie.enright · 23-07-2009 5:19pm

Got oil filter out with a bit of a struggle. Thanks for assistance everyone....Next job up is shocks, they need doing badly. Has anyone done this at home. Is the spring compression tool absolutely essential or there any alternatives. Remember a friend telling me before that he managed to change his without it although it was not easy. Any advice appreciated.

How to service your car

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