soild fuel stove advise

gsxr1 · 10-10-2008 12:01am

northdublin wrote: »

it was recomended to me to line my flue as i cant ensure that the flue has any gaps or cracks that might let gasses or deposits trough into my neighbours ajoining chimney or into my attic. the only way of knowing is to get a cctv survey. ive seen a few installs that simply dont work cause the flue is too wide and there isnt enough draw, meaning depending on the wind direction the room fills with smoke.
if the flue from the stove is just placed up the existing chimney you need to ensure the soot doesnt sit at this point either by sloping the joint with cement so it falls back into the stove flue and into the stove or have a soot door built into the brest to access the area to remove the soot.
this link shows roughly how i did mine http://www.log-onto-fires.com/diagram2.jpg

how do you cement a flexi flu into a chimney.

cant see how the wet mortar will sit up there.

northdublin · 10-10-2008 12:10am

gsxr1 wrote: »

how do you cement a flexi flu into a chimney.

cant see how the wet mortar will sit up there.

you dont use a flexy flue, this method is with resect to using just a short flue from the stove up into the existing flue.
its a messy job where you have to access the flue trough a hole you have knocked out in the brest, you can get a plate with a clamp built onto it that clamps around the enamal flue, then trough the hole in the brest you slope the mortar form the existing flue onto the plate, this means any soot that forms will fall down the slope back into the stove.
however i did use fire cement to seal the joint from my enamal flue to the fexi liner and all other joints i did on the stove.

gabbo is coming · 10-10-2008 7:35am

Thanks De Man - are nestormartin good?

De_man · 10-10-2008 3:00pm

gabbo is coming wrote: »

Thanks De Man - are nestormartin good?

they're fine, but on the expensive side...imho all stoves are pretty much the same the difference is in the aesthetics, it'll be the real boss who'll make the decision as to what look they want to go for;)

gsxr1 · 10-10-2008 5:59pm

GOT UP EARLY

went to gings to pick up the stove. payed 400 not 450 as stated on there website.

got her home and discovered, to get it back properly I would have to break some of the fireback out. had to take the hood part off for clearance.

used two 45degree 5" connections one with a soot door. and a 500mm length.
McCarthys sorted me for the fittings at a good price compared to others I priced. used fire type paste to seal the joints and drilled and screwed them also. tis a little messy. I will clean it when it cools

I stuffed rockwool right up to the neck of the 5" straight

I also sprayed the inside of the fire place with black high temp paint.

finished and lit. very happy..

flu fittings 130
stanley oisin stove 400

so 530 is spent but I hope to make that back in one years heating bills.

timber has made the window black as a boot already and it smells of VHT paint . The smell should be gone soon.

its very warm in here and its on very low.

northdublin · 10-10-2008 6:19pm

neat job, looks very well. looks like its far enough away from the timber so hopefully no heat damage will occur.
my only concern would be soot gathering around the top of the enamel flue and sitting on top of the rock wool.

gsxr1 · 10-10-2008 6:28pm

northdublin wrote: »

neat job, looks very well. looks like its far enough away from the timber so hopefully no heat damage will occur.
my only concern would be soot gathering around the top of the enamel flue and sitting on top of the rock wool.

I also have concerns with this. I hope to pull it all out every spring for a clean. Hopefully this should prevent a chimney fire. I have pushed the rockwool up past the metal as to help the soot to fall the right way. The first clean out will reveal a result. I will be keeping an eye on things until then.

northdublin · 10-10-2008 6:33pm

gsxr1 wrote: »

I also have concerns with this. I hope to pull it all out every spring for a clean. Hopefully this should prevent a chimney fire. I have pushed the rockwool up past the metal as to help the soot to fall the right way. The first clean out will reveal a result. I will be keeping an eye on things until then.

every six months to a year should do for cleaning, depends on how much you use it.
houses years ago had soot doors built into the brest to access roughly where your talking about, to scoop out the soot, and in some more modern homes ive seen them on the outside where the brest goes up the house on the exterior. i tried to get one for my own chimney for asthetic reasons but couldnt source one.

De_man · 10-10-2008 7:27pm

gsxr1 wrote: »

timber has made the window black as a boot already and it smells of VHT paint . The smell should be gone soon.

Fine job, don't worry about the window, it'll clean itself when the flames
are "turned down" the fire will "clean" the window, keep the fire down very
low for a couple of days, the smell is from the paint curing.

you'll be in the good books for this one:D

gsxr1 · 10-10-2008 7:47pm

De_man wrote: »

Fine job, don't worry about the window, it'll clean itself when the flames
are "turned down" the fire will "clean" the window, keep the fire down very
low for a couple of days, the smell is from the paint curing.

you'll be in the good books for this one:D

aye i am. she even bought me 6 bottles of beer and made a edible dinner tonight

Eurorunner · 11-10-2008 11:35am

Nice job.
How much did the fittings cost you and how far past the chimney opening does that flue pipe go?
How big is the room and how much heat are you getting out of it?
Whats that insert made out of? Is it not causing any problems? ie. its not burning hot or anything??
Was going to get reducer and replace cast iron insert with granite but if this is working out for you and others, maybe I'll save funds and do same...:)

One thing to check is clearance at the front. I know its your own house but if the worst was to happen, how would that go with insurance?

gsxr1 · 11-10-2008 2:28pm

Eurorunner wrote: »

Nice job.
How much did the fittings cost you and how far past the chimney opening does that flue pipe go?
How big is the room and how much heat are you getting out of it?
Whats that insert made out of? Is it not causing any problems? ie. its not burning hot or anything??
Was going to get reducer and replace cast iron insert with granite but if this is working out for you and others, maybe I'll save funds and do same...:)

One thing to check is clearance at the front. I know its your own house but if the worst was to happen, how would that go with insurance?

the fitting go up a few feet. I have a very good draw on out chimney. we are very exposed to the wind with a field next to us. The wind howls down the street which produces a fantastic suck from the chimney.

I have only had it going for 1 day . And this morn . Its unreal the heat that comes from it. Really. I cant believe it.

1 bucket of 4X2 timber off cuts used in 1 days running on low. I would have burned that of in an open fire a a few hours with far less heat output.

I have bought a bag of coal to try it and I am trying to source a felled tree to cut up and dry out to stock up for winter. May be a little late though.

This is the answer to high fuel prices.

I have a small 2 bed two story town house . about 850 square feet and the heat is almost to much. All doors open. living room is 5 X 4 meters .

as for the clearance at the front. . its not perfect. But used with care I cant see a problem. I am using a spare tile in front on the thing when refueling. Just in case hot coal falls out and damages the floor.

Im not sure about the insurance thing. Never even considered it to be honest. I just going to make sure the worst never happens. regular cleaning should keep safety issues in check.

the Harth is black granite and is hot under the stove but stays cool around the outside. The mantle is timber but is over the recommended distantance in hight . wont be a problem.

I do intend to maybe connect a flu all the way to the top when I can afford it. That would be the proper job . But the flexi soild fuel flexi is very very expensive . the flexi used for oil and gas boilers are not up to the job, so I was told ..

I was made redundant recently so have not got loads money for that yet. I have just spent the winter heating budget on the stove, but its money very well spent.

get one . Its a nice looking addition to the living room . Lovely warm glow.
and free heat with renewable energy...

it also hold its heat when put out. Was warm to the touch this morn.

Would a reducer solve the soot build up around the rock wool problem? If so I may as well redo that part.

what do you mean by insert burning hot?

Eurorunner · 11-10-2008 3:30pm

gsxr1 wrote: »

the fitting go up a few feet.

Would be a bit concerned alright about soot getting lodged inside and the potential fire risk. Its unlikely you wold have managed to get rockwool right up to the end of it - and even if you have, soot will still buildup on top of it.

gsxr1 wrote: »

I have only had it going for 1 day . And this morn . Its unreal the heat that comes from it. Really. I cant believe it.

Good to hear. I'm hoping to turn off the central heating pump for downstairs (and just heat the rads upstairs) when stove is running.

gsxr1 wrote: »

I do intend to maybe connect a flu all the way to the top when I can afford it. That would be the proper job . But the flexi soild fuel flexi is very very expensive

Yes, this will increase the cost by 100%. I'm hoping that by fitting the reducer to the end of the chimney, there will be no need for liner.

gsxr1 wrote: »

Would a reducer solve the soot build up around the rock wool problem? If so I may as well redo that part.

My understanding is that it can be made to measure - and slotted in and sealed -so there shouldnt be a soot buildup.

gsxr1 wrote: »

what do you mean by insert burning hot?

The insert - the ornate piece between timber fireplace surround and the stove/fireplace. Isn't that made of metal?? I have something similar and was told I would have to replace with either granite or marble.

gsxr1 · 11-10-2008 6:39pm

do us a favour and tell me how you get on with the made to order reducer. Some one must sell them. Clay flu linners are a standard size, as is 5" single wall flu pipe.

the soot build up will play on my mind till I get it fixed... early days yet though. brand new chimney.

I seen on on the B&Q website. Its a UK site and the irish stores dont sell them. But they should up North. should be a cheap one.

I have a metal insert and it is hot. but not burning hot. I can keep my hand on it .

thanks for your input;)

Eurorunner · 11-10-2008 7:59pm

gsxr1 wrote: »

I have a metal insert and it is hot. but not burning hot. I can keep my hand on it .

hmm...makes me wonder if i can get away without having to replace....???

do us a favour and tell me how you get on with the made to order reducer. Some one must sell them. Clay flu linners are a standard size, as is 5" single wall flu pipe.

fluesystems.com can give you a quote on one if you provide them with a sketch. Waiting to get plasterboard up before i do sketch and see what they come back with.

De_man · 12-10-2008 1:33pm

gsxr1 wrote: »

do us a favour and tell me how you get on with the made to order reducer. Some one must sell them.

i know murphys in kinvara supply them

Kevin007 · 12-10-2008 2:18pm

The reason you will have to seal the flue is to prevent 'tramp air' from bypassing the appliance and taking hot air from the room up the flue with the flue gases Do NOT under any circumstance use the flexible flue liner I saw in a pic, on an appiance like this. Flexible flue liner is not for use on high temperature solid fuel units You must use a cast iron flue liner which is what I presume you were quoted for in Sallins. It is expensive but safe. My advise to you is to get a pro to fit this 4 u , otherwise spend the money you saved on Fire Extinguishers................. UR gonna need them

gabbo is coming · 12-10-2008 5:12pm

Went to a place in Ballymount Road on Saturday and the Oisin matt was 670! Thanks for the advice all - went out and drove straight to Portlaois - 400 in gings. The only thing was, originally had heart (no pun) set on enamel but it was 850 for the oisin in gings - couldn't justify the doubling of price so went with the matt.

My setup is the exact same as the original poster. Nice job! The only difference is my cast iron fireplace extends all the way around the hearth, with a semi-circular door on the top to open when the fire is lit to let out the smoke, and close during the summer / when not lighting.

So...I plan to get a 90' connection and run a pipe up through this semi-circular hole and then lash some rockwool around the pipe above the hole. THis sounds right?

(Father also bought a stove in Gings, the Tara for 1250 enamel. Very good value compared with Dublin. 60 to deliver to Dub. He has a range which had a hideous pyramid of brick built inside it. Got the sledge to it on Saturday, it'll look the business)

gsxr1 · 12-10-2008 6:42pm

Kevin007 wrote: »

The reason you will have to seal the flue is to prevent 'tramp air' from bypassing the appliance and taking hot air from the room up the flue with the flue gases Do NOT under any circumstance use the flexible flue liner I saw in a pic, on an appiance like this. Flexible flue liner is not for use on high temperature solid fuel units You must use a cast iron flue liner which is what I presume you were quoted for in Sallins. It is expensive but safe. My advise to you is to get a pro to fit this 4 u , otherwise spend the money you saved on Fire Extinguishers................. UR gonna need them

I dont intend to use flexi anymore . A reducer is the way forward.

A flexi can used on solid fuel stoves. It has to be the correct grade.

I have steel fitting that are not cast iron and recommended for the unit.

check the link.

www.fluesystems.com

Kevin007 · 13-10-2008 3:29am

Well done There is also some Stainless Steel Flue in the market is suitable Make sure you seai it with Fire Cement and you'll be OK. Best of Luck with it

gsxr1 · 14-10-2008 2:38pm

got my problem solved. This reducer is the way forward.

Ended up going into Sackcloth and Ashes in Sallin for advice and they sold me this.

9" to 5" reducer with a taper to let soot go down the right way.

Cost 90 euro. cant afford it but its better than a chimney fire. It has to be fire cemented in. this weekend.

the proper job

:cool:

molliesassy · 14-10-2008 4:36pm

This same pipe is €59.95 in Gings....:eek:

gsxr1 · 14-10-2008 4:40pm

molliesassy wrote: »

This same pipe is €59.95 in Gings....:eek:

GREAT!!.

now im upset:mad:

would cost me 30 in diesal getting to gings .

should have got the lot up there.

gabbo is coming · 15-10-2008 11:08am

Folks,

For the other one I'm putting in, have had to remove fireplace that was built inside a range.

I'm looking to build a kind of ceiling in gap of 4ft by 2 foot remaining after brick insert was taken out.

This is just above the gap for the range - i.e. it's not visible. DO you know what I should use for a ceiling? I've been recommended aerated blocks, but they won't span 2ft, so would mean joining them - could be messy (weight)....

Here's a simple diagram that shows what I'm trying to do...

gsxr1 · 15-10-2008 11:26am

people have used plaster board in houses I have seen. Its fire restistant and if you get 18mm board , it would be beter. It is not rated as fire proof .

Gypson have a fireproof plaster board which would be better. Framed with metal studs . you have to keed a gap air between flu and plaster board though..

Eurorunner · 15-10-2008 1:19pm

@gsxr: Is the 'downpipe' section of that reducer 300mm? I'm just wondering if theres a standard size or does the end have to be cut to suit? (I'm assuming your using the top flue outlet on the stanley).

RKQ · 15-10-2008 1:56pm

Check out the Building Regulations regarding flues and plasterboard. Double slab 12.5mm slabs or use fire slabs - pink colour plasterboard. The British version has a lot of useful diagrams etc.

http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/br/BR_PDF_ADJ_2002.pdf

http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/br/BR_PDF_ADJ_1992.pdf

The use of combustible materials, close to the flue must be investigated fully.

gabbo is coming · 15-10-2008 2:41pm

RKQ wrote: »

Check out the Building Regulations regarding flues and plasterboard. Double slab 12.5mm slabs or use fire slabs - pink colour plasterboard. The British version has a lot of useful diagrams etc.

http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/br/BR_PDF_ADJ_2002.pdf

http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/br/BR_PDF_ADJ_1992.pdf

The use of combustible materials, close to the flue must be investigated fully.

Thanks. Will get some of that, put a layer of rockwool sitting on top. Pipe through it. Won't be quite the U value of acerate block, but will do the job nonetheless.

gsxr1 · 15-10-2008 2:58pm

Eurorunner wrote: »

@gsxr: Is the 'downpipe' section of that reducer 300mm? I'm just wondering if theres a standard size or does the end have to be cut to suit? (I'm assuming your using the top flue outlet on the stanley).

it will be hidden in the back. its around 300. I may have to cut it a little to get it to work with the other fitting I have. he did have a variety up there. All shapes and sizes

RKQ · 15-10-2008 3:02pm

No problem. Rockwool can be used to achieve superior u-values to aercrete block.
Rockwool is not fibre-glass, as fibre glass can melt around a hot flue. Please don't confuse them. Rockwool is the correct material to use, in compliance with the Building Regulations.
Good luck

soild fuel stove advise

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