Disaster. Snappy snap crack :(

Sparks · 23-05-2008 10:18PM #1

Craptacular:

May 23, 2008
Snappy disaster.

Was moving the rifles from the safe at home to the safe in DURC so that I could train there during lunchtime. As I’m walking, the strap on the Anschutz rucksack bag undid itself and the bag fell off my shoulder and dropped the three feet to the ground. It’s happened once or twice before (though on grass) so I didn’t panic, I just picked it up and walked into the range. Then when I was taking the rifle out of the bag to put it in the safe I noticed the bag was bending where it shouldn’t be bending.

Disaster. The sintered stock has had several complaints over the years on the net about people having exactly this happen to them - the pistol grip is apparently a weak point in the design. I’d been planning on buying a Peli17xx case next month for just this reason as well.

*sigh*

And I liked that stock, it was damn easy to adjust and I’d set it up properly for myself. At least all the adjustments can be carried over to a new stock fairly easily, even the customisation of the pistol grip (by just taking off the pistol grip and moving it to the new stock).

Well, I keep hearing about the fabulous after-care you get from Anschutz and it’s why I bought from them in the first place, so it’s time to fire up the email client and send them a “Help!” email. They don’t make the 2002CA anymore though, so I don’t know if they still have stocks. Fingers crossed…

E. Fudd · 23-05-2008 10:26PM

OOH thats sore looking! I have no idea how much that costs, but it looks damn expensive. Sorry for you're misfortune sparks!

jwshooter · 23-05-2008 10:30PM

Sparks wrote: »

Craptacular:

your home insurance will cover it

Sparks · 23-05-2008 10:35PM

Afraid not jw, I wasn't at home at the time, was in Trinity, carrying my rifles from my office to the range.

bigred · 23-05-2008 10:39PM

Sparks wrote: »

Afraid not jw, I wasn't at home at the time, was in Trinity, carrying my rifles from my office to the range.

That's what your 'Unspecified All Risks' is for. I've my new FWB as a named All Risk - don't fancy paying for a second one if I drop the bloody thing.

patbundy · 23-05-2008 10:40PM

yuck..how much for a new one sparks

IRLConor · 23-05-2008 10:47PM

patbundy wrote: »

yuck..how much for a new one sparks

~£850, he only needs the stock.

Anschütz might do him a deal though since it's a known fault.

patbundy · 23-05-2008 10:59PM

lucky, to honest i was expecting to be alot more.how long will it take to get a replacement

rrpc · 23-05-2008 11:02PM

Sorry for your trouble Sparks :mad:. I've also heard of this happening, but never actually seen the evidence before.

Is there not some clever metalworker that could repair that for you? A couple of pins and a bit of welding whould do the trick I would have thought. Aluminium can be welded you know.

patbundy · 23-05-2008 11:09PM

rrpc aluminium is very hard to weld, it dosent take the heat well.sparks stock looks like its cast aliminium

jwshooter · 23-05-2008 11:10PM

Sparks wrote: »

Afraid not jw, I wasn't at home at the time, was in Trinity, carrying my rifles from my office to the range.

should do.. i have a two grand out side the house on mine , it will cover lost broken or stolen unspecified personal possessions out side the policys address.as do most of my shooting friends . i know a lad broke his shot gun stock a few weeks ago and his insurance will pay for it

rrpc · 23-05-2008 11:12PM

patbundy wrote: »

rrpc aluminium is very hard to weld, it dosent take the heat well.sparks stock looks like its cast aliminium

It's hard, but not impossible, I've seen it done with MIG welders and although it can be a little messy it does work. Cast aluminum is a little difficult, but the added pins should help.

IRLConor · 23-05-2008 11:18PM

patbundy wrote: »

lucky, to honest i was expecting to be alot more.how long will it take to get a replacement

Yeah, if it was the whole rifle that needed replacing it would be €2k+.

If it was solid machined aluminium it could be welded but since it's sintered I wouldn't hold out much hope.

Hopefully Anschütz will do a deal. If not, get on the phone to your friendly neighbourhood demonloop.

Sparks · 23-05-2008 11:19PM

Thing is, aluminium's hard to weld and sintered aluminium more so from what I remember

Basicly, it's get a new part time

And my home insurance definitely won't cover it more's the pity

Hopefully Anschutz will have a spare bit lying about and I can just drop the action and barrel and cheekpiece and all the other bits into the new stock.
And hopefully it won't be as much as €850 - Anschutz's after-sales support is a bit of a legend, and it was in one of their rifle slips. If they won't replace a broken part that's a known problem when the strap on one of their protective bags fails, well, I'd be most surprised and unhappy

rrpc · 23-05-2008 11:22PM

IRLConor wrote: »

Yeah, if it was the whole rifle that needed replacing it would be €2k+.

If it was solid machined aluminium it could be welded but since it's sintered I wouldn't hold out much hope.

Isn't sintered aluminium better for heat resistance and machining?

I would have thought that would make it easier to weld.

patbundy · 23-05-2008 11:25PM

its very hard to repair cast aliminiun rrpc.even looking at the pictures a few times,it looks like a clean break but its hard to see how far the stress is gone on the broken ends.when we break cast aliminium we find its cheaper to replace them,plus it will never feel the same.its shame though

Grizzly 45 · 23-05-2008 11:32PM

Sparks,Fear not!!
If you have no joy in getting a replacement,which I think youwill without any bother.
I have an welder down here in Limerick who does exellent TiG work.Last week a garage broke my thermostat cover on my jeep engine.Moan groan from the garage to order parts etc,take a week or two blah blah.I took it down to a stainless steel maker.The lads poked around for 20 mins and welded it back together.While ugly.It is still working and holding together,and considering the high temp,expansion&compression pressure and vibrations it has to take it is holding up fine.And that is cast aluminium.As an Ex welder,I can say they did a clean job on a very awkward bit.

Ok,it wont look beautiful,but it will work.Be prepared to lose paint and finish.The trick is to let the part cool down at it's own speed.Dont try to hurry the cooling process.
If U are stuck give us a shout.
In the meantime,to get you shooting again.I suggest JB WELD aluminium glue.It's a bit hard to find.But I have glued some alu bits together,which are still holding.
ASFIK sinterd is supposedly easier to heat work?

Sparks · 23-05-2008 11:36PM

I dunno Grizzly - everything I've found on welding SAP (Sintered Aluminum Powder) is going on about CO2 laser welding and other wierd and esoteric methods

jwshooter · 23-05-2008 11:38PM

Sparks wrote: »

Thing is, aluminium's hard to weld and sintered aluminium more so from what I remember Basicly, it's get a new part time
And my home insurance definitely won't cover it more's the pity
Hopefully Anschutz will have a spare bit lying about and I can just drop the action and barrel and cheekpiece and all the other bits into the new stock.
And hopefully it won't be as much as €850 - Anschutz's after-sales support is a bit of a legend, and it was in one of their rifle slips. If they won't replace a broken part that's a known problem when the strap on one of their protective bags fails, well, I'd be most surprised and unhappy

id change insurance co so

rrpc · 23-05-2008 11:40PM

Sparks wrote: »

I dunno Grizzly - everything I've found on welding SAP (Sintered Aluminum Powder) is going on about CO2 laser welding and other wierd and esoteric methods

Most of that stuff is about maintaining the heat resistance of the SAP after the weld is complete. The stock does not require that particular attribute of SAP, so TIG welding as Grizzly said will work fine.

Mightn't be pretty mind, but it will be solid. Btw, I've read that you can reduce the heat by welding with the item partially submerged in water.

Sparks · 23-05-2008 11:42PM

Cool rrpc, in that case I'll take it over to the mech.eng department's workshop if Anschutz can't get me a spare and get one of their lot to do me a quick favour

rrpc · 23-05-2008 11:54PM

Sparks wrote: »

Cool rrpc, in that case I'll take it over to the mech.eng department's workshop if Anschutz can't get me a spare and get one of their lot to do me a quick favour

At least you could be back in action quickly and sure what have you got to lose at this stage?

Sparks · 23-05-2008 11:56PM

True that. I'll wait to hear from Anschutz first, just in case they say "stick it in the post, we'll send you a new one". Sending them a repaired stock for replacement might not be well received

patbundy · 24-05-2008 12:46AM

hope you get sorted sparks

thehair · 24-05-2008 01:14AM

Grizzly 45 wrote: »

Sparks,Fear not!!
If you have no joy in getting a replacement,which I think youwill without any bother.
I have an welder down here in Limerick who does exellent TiG work.Last week a garage broke my thermostat cover on my jeep engine.Moan groan from the garage to order parts etc,take a week or two blah blah.I took it down to a stainless steel maker.The lads poked around for 20 mins and welded it back together.While ugly.It is still working and holding together,and considering the high temp,expansion&compression pressure and vibrations it has to take it is holding up fine.And that is cast aluminium.As an Ex welder,I can say they did a clean job on a very awkward bit.

Ok,it wont look beautiful,but it will work.Be prepared to lose paint and finish.The trick is to let the part cool down at it's own speed.Dont try to hurry the cooling process.
If U are stuck give us a shout.
In the meantime,to get you shooting again.I suggest JB WELD aluminium glue.It's a bit hard to find.But I have glued some alu bits together,which are still holding.
ASFIK sinterd is supposedly easier to heat work?

+1 i am also a welder TIG is the only man for that job PS i hope you get
it fixed sparks:(

bigred · 24-05-2008 08:42AM

rrpc wrote: »

Most of that stuff is about maintaining the heat resistance of the SAP after the weld is complete. The stock does not require that particular attribute of SAP, so TIG welding as Grizzly said will work fine.

Mightn't be pretty mind, but it will be solid. Btw, I've read that you can reduce the heat by welding with the item partially submerged in water.

Welcome all to the brand new 'Welding Forum - where we know our MiG from our TiG'

24-05-2008 09:59AM

Sorry to hear that Sparks, however there are plenty of CA2002 stocks over across the water so if Anschutz don't help I am sure you can pick up a stock second hand.

Main thing is that the barrel and action are working, and you will have all of the 'important' bits such as the cheek piece, sights and buttplate so while its an awful thing to happen, it could have been an awful lot worse.

Grizzly 45 · 24-05-2008 11:25AM

Basically any welding is glueing two pieces of metal together using a filler metal under very high temp.To create this high temp ,you can pass a variable electric current thru a soft metal rod,called depending on the type of welding done,an arc welding rod,or coiled wire as in MIG or arod as in Tig welding.In breif you are ceating an electrical short between two pieces of metal.
Three types of electrical most commonly used.
ARC Welding.The most common known to us all.Bright blue intense[and dangerous to look at without shielding] light.Melting a soft metal rod coverd in a powdr like substance[called flux] by electrical current.Flux is designed to cover the weld to prevent oxidation[IE Rust] in the hot metal mix occuring.This is used for welding big chunks of steel,cast iron[with alot of luck and heat]

MIG,Not a Russian Jet .Mixed inert gas welding.[but was developed for the aircraft industry]Same principle but at your welding torch head there is high pressure inert gas being forced out in a cone to drive away any oxygen at the weld.Wire is fed from the machine into the arc,where it melts to become the weld.This welding type is used on light thin metal ,like car panels etc.

Tig Tungsten Inert Gas. A specialist weld used on stainless steel and aluminium,and some other exotic metal.The gas must not react with the metallic gases created in the flux to cause oxidation.So again the cone of inert gas is forced out to cover the weld area.You feed in by hand a light rod of aluminium,or whatever the metal is into the weld area.Proably the least dramatic and surgical [all the metal needs to be spotless and the work area like an operating theater]and complex[getting the correct voltages right for the metal content] of the welding processes.
Hope that helps somwhat.

It wasn't me! · 24-05-2008 11:59AM

That sucks Sparks. Any word from Anschutz about it?

Sparks · 24-05-2008 12:52PM

Nothing yet IWM, but it is the weekend!

Sparks · 24-05-2008 01:03PM

And thanks everyone for the offers of help, they're very much appreciated!

Shooting Forum - Firearms licencing information

Disaster. Snappy snap crack :(

Comments