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Hub Controller options

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,642 ✭✭✭deezell


    That's a wireless kit, the powered receiver sits in place of the Hub, the wireless stat can be located anywhere in your preferred room. Little bit more to the wiring, neutral is used, and a link inserted from L live to CH Com. The V1 wire from the Hub goes to CH NO. Theres a Hot Water relay you won't need, so ignore, but with additional wiring it could be used for HW only switching.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14 scsei


    All wired up and working away! Bit of confusion on my end as it kept turning itself off after a few minutes, turns out It had reached the desired in app temperature without my realising.

    Thanks so much for your expertise, people such as yourself as too few and far between!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 284 ✭✭Banjo Carney


    I second your comments @deezell is a mine of information and as important is willing to share it.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,302 ✭✭✭✭dulpit


    @deezell is a throw back to the boards of 10+ years ago when people were far sounder and going out of their way to help people than now. Big ups @deezell



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,302 ✭✭✭✭dulpit


    For anyone here who ended up getting the tado system mentioned, I found a free year of the smart assist thing they have in the app. And it's paid by Google play, so it's simple to cancel later

    Offer was just there when I opened app



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,430 ✭✭✭circadian


    Looking to replace this, preferably DIY. Any suggestions for a Tado WiFi replacement? I plan on adding radiator valves at some point as well.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,642 ✭✭✭deezell


    Go to page one, read posts from 1-12-2022, wiring of the wireless receiver and stat. The wired one is even simpler to DIY. Check screwfix or Tado for starter kit prices, but this is a steal for wall stat, wireless receiver and Internet bridge device.

    https://www.screwfix.ie/p/tado-v3-wireless-heating-hot-water-smart-thermostat-starter-kit-white/141kt



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,430 ✭✭✭circadian


    Cheers, for the FIL and wanted to make sure the stuff from the start of the thread was still relevant/up to date. Need to make this as simple as possible so I'm not getting phone calls every other week! Are these Zigbee or plain old WiFi? I have a few devices in his house connected to HA for easy management on my part, would be handy to integrate these if possible.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,642 ✭✭✭deezell


    The bridge connects to the router by axshirr supplied ethernet cable, no messing with WiFi. The wall stat and receiver communicate with each other and the bridge using a low power wireless protocol call 6LoWpan, similar to zigbee but not visible to it. However, the stat is discoverable on Alexa, HA, Google, Home kit, but not on IFTTT.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 698 ✭✭✭Breezin


    Thanks so much to deezell and everyone else who added knowledge to this thread. 👏👏

    I've just junked my useless Hub and installed the Tado using the wiring instructions found here. Worked first time! 😁



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,302 ✭✭✭✭dulpit


    I was telling my buddy about the tado system I replaced my parent's hub controller with and he was saying he'd like something similar, but would prefer a system that let's you just schedule heating on or off like the hub (not like the tado which is more based on target temperatures). He said his boiler is a condensor and they don't have a water tank, the hot water comes direct from the taps through the boiler.

    Any idea if there's an alternative drop in replacement for the hub that is more based on scheduling the heating on and off? I said I'd ask here for him anyway...



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,642 ✭✭✭deezell


    Thats a bizarre request if you think about. Like having a car which has only two speeds, full or stopped, and you have to stop and start it again. Tado has an infinite number of timer slots, and the notion of 'ON' is a temperature which is warmer well, cold, whatever feels miserable. On can be any temperature that keeps the boiler running, say really warm like 30°. Now you can program the Tado ON and OFF, and try and guess how long it should be ON before you think the room might be warn enough, then you can program the next time interval OFF. You can even act as a human thermostat, manual tweaking the ONs and OFFs as you alternately freeze or sweat. You can see how ridiculous this sounds, but this is exactly how segment programming of heating was done when there was no device to measure temperature. Like driving our hypothetical car with no speedometer, just your judgement of Too Fast and Too Slow. If a remotely operated heating control doesn't measure temperature, and make on/off decisions based on this, what is the point? It's guesswork. He can replace the Hub with a Sonoff remote switch, or any Internet remote control plug or light switch. These come with an App that will turn his boiler on or off, without any regard to the actual home temperature.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,302 ✭✭✭✭dulpit


    Oh I get you, I prefer just set and forget with the tado, but that's what he asked for. I guess just old fashioned and used to what he's used to?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,642 ✭✭✭deezell




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭Noworries!


    Hi all, have my system set up as above with

    Neutral blue in place

    Live in place looping to ch com and hw no

    Pump connected to ch no and hw nc but ch no and hw nc not connected ie seperate feed wires from pump

    Boiler switch live connected to hw com

    Everytime the system calls for hot water, it starts the ch pump, any thoughts on what I'm doing wrong?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,642 ✭✭✭deezell


    What's 'as above'. Have posted your system here before? That's a bizarre setup you're describing, with pump described as being connected, then not connected to CH No and HW Nc in the same sentence. Is the pump the CH pump. Is this a gravity system which heats HW only or HW and CH when the pump is activated. Is this an oil boiler where the circulation pump is outside the boiler? Take a picture of your wiring.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭Noworries!


    Hi Deezell, it's as per the drawing you put up on 23 Feb 23, gravity fed system



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭Noworries!


    IMG20250204152728.jpg

    Pic



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,642 ✭✭✭deezell


    Great, I'll have a look back 2 years! I'll be back. 🤖



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭Noworries!


    By this "Pump connected to ch no and hw nc but ch no and hw nc not connected ie separate feed wires from pump" I mean that both ch no and hw nc are connected to the pump (Red wire) but not looped together, both those wires run into a block out of sight



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,642 ✭✭✭deezell


    It looks correct except for the two red. There should be a single wire to the pump which activates it, which in an older gravity system would have been the live back from a mechanical room stat to turn on the pump. The wiring diagram I posted was a method of wiring a volt free two channel controller in gravity mode, whereby any call from either the HW relay or the CH relay would supply a boiler live on the HW terminal only, as this is the only connection to the boiler. HW will be heated for either call, but a CH call only will divert CH live to fire the boiler via the HW No terminal, at the same time activating the pump for CH flow. I'm unsure if the two red wires on your setup are joined, and if they are connected to the circulation pump live only.

    This wiring was useful for two zone controllers with a 2 pole relay per zone (No and Nc), which didn't have a gravity mode switch or soft configuration. The Nest two zone receiver was one example, there were other two zone controllers with a similar shortcoming, and when Tado introduced that newer extension kit with similar volt free 2 pole relays, the mode switch for gravity was eliminated. However, since I posted the bodge a few years ago, I've discovered that the new Tado ext kit can be soft programmed to enable gravity mode. In this mode the wiring is simple. Links from live to both CH Com and HW Com. CH No to the pump (or zone valve), and HW No to fire the boiler. Any CH or HW timed event will fire the boiler via terminal HW No, but CH will not happen unless the CH No terminal to the pump goes live. The ext. kit is configured to gravity mode by holding down the two top right buttons for 5 seconds, then press the heating test butto until the power light goes Blue.

    20250204_172851.jpg

    Try and establish exactly how your system is operated. With only a HW live to the black boiler wire, all others off, does the pump still operate. Check those red wires again. There has to be a single source of power to a pump or a zone valve in gravity system, thats allows CH flow, while HW will heat for either CH, HW timings or both at the same time



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭Noworries!


    There's a single red running to the pump, I just added a small block and ran two wires from that to ch no and hw nc, any chance of a sketch to show how it should be set up now!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,642 ✭✭✭deezell


    tado.png

    With the receiver configured for Gravity mode, all the linking of the other diagram is done internally. Boiler will fire when either CH or HW is ON, via the HW No terminal

    Pump will operate only when CH is on, via the CH No terminal. Again, I'm assuming this is the circulation pump to the radiators.

    If your boiler is a gas boiler with an internal pump, then this pump will always pump to the radiators when the boiler is fired, so such a Gravity system requires a motorised zone Valve opened only by the CH No terminal when CH is on, and off when only 'gravity' heating of HW is on, though this will now be pumped flow to the HW cylinder.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭Noworries!


    Tried that, but its still putting on the pump for hot water, can't figure it out at all!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,642 ✭✭✭deezell


    Is your boiler oll or gas. It sounds very much like you either have a boiler with and internal pump, or else the boiler was wired back to the circulation pump so that it always pumps when firing. What was your previous setup. Maybe you posted this back in 2003, but there's no easy search on boards anymore. Had you an old wall thermostat for CH? If this still there and controlling the pump, and is turned up, it may be supplying live to the pump from the boiler SL, switched live. Disconnect the red wire, and see does the pump and CH operate If the boiler is fired.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,642 ✭✭✭deezell


    I've just went back to 2023 and reread your posts. Your hub was just acting as a boiler timer, with an existing thermostat controlling the pump or a zone valve fir CH. It's the switched live from this stat to the pump which must be assigned to your red wire. It looks like the pump is still being energised by this old stat. This should be turned off, and the wire that went to power the pump connected to the Tado CH No. Terminal. There can be no other source of live. The old thermostat should have had a live in from the boiler timed live, and a switched live out to the pump, bur there's no knowing what the Hub installers did, other than putting the hub where it couldn't act as a meaningful thermostat as they fitted it in your utility room. You have to trace and find the live input that energises the pump, isolate it and connect it only to the CH No on the Tado receiver. Are your certain thar your system doesn't use a motorised valve to allow CH flow, as you say your boiler is outside, so it's likely the pump is always in when the boiler fires, and the old wall thermostat was used to close the CH flow using a motorised valve



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭Noworries!


    Im not sure buddy, but I disconnected old stat and can't see any change whether pump is on or off so maybe the stat is just a motorised valve



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,642 ✭✭✭deezell


    When you disconnected the old stat, dud you join the two wires together?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭Noworries!


    I've just disconnected the stat today, and joined the wires to see what happens/ try get pump to fire



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭Noworries!


    So, looping back around today to this, finally got it sorted, with thanks to Deezel for his explanations, the end set up was

    All Neutral to N

    Live feed to L

    Loop Live to CH com and HW com

    Stat brown to CH No (Old mechanical one)

    Boiler brown to HW No

    Boiler red to HW No

    This seems to allow the system to fire the boiler and heat water only when required and open the CH when H is requested

    It's set to gravity mode on the TADO

    Thanks again Deezel



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