Hub Controller options

I Would like use for this thermostad same wires what I had hub controller (L N V1)

Put a short link from the new thermostat Live to 4, then connect V1 wire to 5.

Wifi is only suitable for mains powered devices as it consumes too much power for battery operation. The Tado uses a low power wireless signal independent and secure from WiFi. This connects to the very small device that comes with the kit and plugs into your router ethernet port. It has a small power supply, or can be powered from a router USB port. This device, known as the Bridge, connects the router internet to all Tado devices, wall stats, the wired receiver box, smart radiator valves etc. Vastly superior system to hub, and you can set different temperatures for each heating time slot. All with no subscription. You might catch the Tado bug and start adding smart radiator valves to control the heat in individual rooms. Best of luck.

Br careful on the € site. The extension kit doesn't have HW relay, it has the OpenTherm though.. I've just got an email follow up to that link apologising for sending me the wrong site, and sending me to the /ie version of the UK site in £, which is still their way of sell8ng to us despite repeated complaints to them that we're € and in the EU. Some of the prices are way over, £84 (€101) for the wired that's €79 on the € link. Wireless with HW though is also £84, so that's better than the € site non-HW Wireless kit.

Deezell thanks for your input here, installed new tado wireless there and working nicely.

When I use the smart schedule it looks like I have to program both the hw and ch for the same time block for the heating to switch on,is this correct? I have just a normal boiler that heats water and rads at same time.Its wired same as you have in your pic ,l,n and v1.Thanks

Ye followed instructions,this is the way it's wired, it's a new ext kit just has the box and you screw this to the wall. I'm probably doing something stupid with app as only getting used to it.

Yes, a system boiler just heats the hot flow to rads or HW cylinder or both. Have you only connected the N, L, the Link and V1 wires, no other wires to any of the HW relay terminals?

If you're only using the ext kit to fire the boiler for CH, configuration shouldn't make any difference, any call for heat on the app CH, scheduled or manually, should close the CH relay and supply live to fire the boiler. The yellow configuration should prevent the HW schedule from being activated in the app. The green allows both relays to work independently to according to their schedule, with a motorused zone valve fir the hot flow to rafs or HW cylinder. Blue is used for gravity mode, where the HW relay (with live link to HW COM) closes and fires the boiler for either HW or CH schedules, while the CH relay only operates a pump or motorised valve to allow hot flow to the radiators, thus allowing HW only heating in the summer. Do you have a phase test screwdriver? Check that you have live going to the teminal marked L and not N. Are you saying that the boiler will not fire unless you switch on the HW timer as well as the CH cimtrol? Were there just exactly three wires in the old hub connections? The issue you're describing sounds like you have a 2 zone system with gravity mode, with a wire each out for HW (boiler firing), and Ch ( circulation pump and/or motorised valve to the rads). Such a system connected to a two zone controller with out gravity mode selected would indeed require the HW relay NO (normally open) terminal to be live at the same time as the CH terminal, otherwise only the pump or zone valve would operate without the boiler firing.

Thanks for detailed response deezell. Yes only 3 wires into old hub ,n,l and v1. When I stuck it into config yellow the boiler threw an F1 error,so won't be using that one,will leave it on green,I don't mind having to set both the Ch and hw schedule for it to work, will mess around with it the weekend and see. Least I can now schedule it to come on ,not like the hub. That used to work well on the app and then for the last year by using the hub box itself ,had to boost all the time as many on here have said, then the day I bought the tado the hub box itself wouldn't even light up ,like as if it was bricked. Thanks for putting me wide to the tado, got it for 95 in screw fix.

Finally managed to get the damn thing off, and this is my setup behind it. How do I get the wires out from the back of the hub controller, is that setup with the connectors legit in the back box?

I assume the wired starter kit is the way I need to go, basically all I need is to be able to put the heating om and of or maybe set it to come on for a couple of hours?

Yes, I separated the two parts, eventually found a little plastic plate which gave access to the terminal block and I was able to disconnect the wires. A friend of mine had an old immersion switch which we fitted, so at least I have heat now.

Yes, it and Climote are dead ducks, businesses set up on the strength of huge energy credit subsidies, which allowed them to litter tens of thousands of houses by empowering the energy suppliers to put them in 'free', while electricity customers ultimately paid. The products were non competitive in a free and open market, so when the credit bungs disappeared, their business models were built on sand. Last I read they had tweaked it to work without a subscription, manually I presume, while the receiver tried to find a buyer for the rapidly diminishing subscribers base.

Are the servers turned off? Does it still work as a basic manually operated stat? If it's non functional, then the landlord will have to sort it. If it's still working as a manual stat, you could ask the landlord to swap it for a new Internet connected stat. Show them this.

https://www.breakingnews.ie/ireland/high-court-hears-10000-homes-may-be-left-without-heat-if-firm-ceases-trading-1620341.html

This wired Tado will replace the hub with minimal diy effort. The small bridge device connects directly to the router by a supplied short ethernet cable, no WiFi. The stat then pairs to the bridge for app access. Maybe buy it and put it in with landlords help. He might be keen as he knows what he might pay a heating company for a replacement. He can refund you if you leave.

https://www.screwfix.ie/p/tado-v3-smart-wired-heating-thermostat-starter-kit/447ht

Take the hub off base plate, you'll see a few wires. Unscrew them. Get the tado, those wires can then go into that. Jobs a quick one.

Sorry for being such a newbie, what do you mean by park the neutral?

Also, is this the appropriate kit to order when just doing a swap of the hub? https://www.screwfix.ie/p/tado-v3-smart-wired-heating-thermostat-starter-kit/447ht

Thanks for the tips, great help. Having trouble finding somewhere with stock for immediate collection, would this work no?

https://www.screwfix.ie/p/tado-v3-wireless-heating-hot-water-smart-thermostat-starter-kit-white/141kt