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Home charge points (purchase/problems/questions) (See mod note post#1)

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,322 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    Yes you can, when its plugged in. Click on the Battery tile and it will give you a popup to change the "mode".



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22 Steveraf


    Thanks for the response but I don't have solar. You may have confused me with another poster.....good info though!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,420 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    I agree with @listermint that a proper dedicated charger should be installed. While it won't help much for emergencies if the vehicle charge is low, the person with a dedicated charger is more likely to plug in and keep the car topped up. I know a granny could be left plugged in, but I would be against that, as I don't like the idea of an external plug being left plugged into a non-dedicated external power supply box, such as those used for sprinkler, or pond systems where the cable is routed directly into the power supply and is not using a plug.

    I occasionally use a granny charger if both vehicles need to be charged. I tend to keep the cars above 50% and that usually means 2 charges per week per car. I just think if someone has an EV, they really should have a dedicated charger and use the granny only as a backup charger…..maybe when visiting granny.

    Stay Free



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,409 ✭✭✭✭prawnsambo


    I'm not seeing an actual reason here. We're talking about the power of an average fan heater or kettle, except without the other issues associated with heating elements whether or not combined with water.

    Along with the fact that manufacturer provided granny chargers are well built, expensive items with thermal monitoring of the plug.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,420 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    I'm not an expert, but the the difference I see between a fan heater, or kettle and a granny charger is that only one of those items will be running for several hours at a time. They all share the same fuse rating, but the kettle is active for a few minutes at a time. The fan heater variable but again, often 20 minutes or less. If the person with the 70kWh battery is even charging from 50% to full, it will take approximately 16 hours at full draw to charge up. That's a long time for the item to be running at full draw.

    My opinion remains the same. If you have an EV, a dedicated charger is what you should have at home. A granny charger is a back-up when you have no other option. Granny chargers can and do fail, especially after a few months of being exposed to the elements and being thrown about from car to ground. I have a lot more faith in a dedicated charge point, but I do see your POV and accept it works for many people. Unfortunately, it's just not as safe using a granny charger.

    Stay Free



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,409 ✭✭✭✭prawnsambo


    But again, I'm not seeing what the potential issue is. Yes it will run at a sustained level for longer than a heater or kettle, but annually will probably be about the same (assuming your use case means you're only using it once every few days like the poster who said they'd do on average 120km a week).

    If it's connected to a properly protected outdoor socket (you can get these with an RCD built in) connected to a low use circuit like a bedroom or hall that's unlikely to reach even half its rated capacity, I can't see a problem other than the unit eventually giving up the ghost.

    I'm not by any means suggesting that they are the be all and end all. But if your use case means a dedicated home charger (to continue the analogy) is the equivalent of buying a burco boiler to make your tea because once in a blue moon you'll need to make tea for 50 people and the rest of the time you're barely covering the bottom with water, then you're probably better off with a normal kettle and worry about the 50 people when it's actually a concrete prospect.

    If you don't need to add to your costs to the tune of €1,000 plus, then I would advise you not to until it's absolutely necessary.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,358 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Ghost is correct granny chargers are occasional use items. Leaving a high consumption on over night for 10 hours or so is inherently unsafe. I'd value both the convience and safety of a dedicated charger for let's face it tiny money in the scheme of buying a new EV. It's pure scrimping to rely on a granny charger.

    Plus we're close to a point that chargers are a good addition to a home sale too.

    Convience safety and better charging rates. Win win



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,420 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    You might not see an issue, but there are plenty of examples of granny chargers literally melting or going on fire when charging a vehicle. We can't necessarily blame the granny charger alone, but that's what was drawing the power and where the commonality exists. If the external socket degrades (they do, trust me) from regular use/abise, then the potential for fire is heightened due to higher resistance.

    The potential issues are:

    #The outdoor socket is connected to an existing circuit which could be overloaded, because it might be easier running the circuit from the kitchen than the hallway.

    #The sensor in the granny charger malfunctions or stops working, but the granny still operates because not all heat sensors cause the charger to stop functioning, causing melting and fire.

    I picked up a Leaf yesterday. Came with a non OEM charger the previous owner used exclusively to charge the car. My electrics were only tested and upgraded CU in the past fortnight, so all is good there. The granny caused my charger to trip 3 times before I unplugged it and stopped using it. I got lucky there (sort of) but there are plenty of examples of granny chargers causing electrical faults, melting, or burning the whole unit. I can't find many examples of burnt dedicated chargers with few exceptions of the first EV dumb chargers and where improper installs occurred. I picked up the missing type 2 public charger today from Lidl. Needles to say I will be getting an OEM granny charger for the very rare times it will be used.

    Stay Free



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,409 ✭✭✭✭prawnsambo


    We're not disagreeing here unless we have different definitions of 'occasional use'. Taking the 120km a week user, at 15kWh/100km, that's 18kWh a week. Spread over seven days, that's about 2.5kWh a day. or three sessions of 6kWh. So a max of 3 hours on charge at a time. Or one hour in every 24. None of those scenarios are either sustained or excessive.

    What is excessive is costing them over a grand for a unit that will get less than three hours use a week. That will never pay back.

    As for safety, I am assuming a properly installed and protected circuit with a protected outdoor socket. Anything else is an accident waiting to happen, with or without a charger.

    Edit: Anyway, I think we're going to start going around in circles at this point, so I'll leave it at that.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,322 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    The reason is that sockets wear over time and that wear means the contact between the plug and socket isnt as good as it was when new. Reduced contact means more heat. Yes, there's a temp sensor in the granny cable but if the heat is dissipating the other direction it can have serious consequences. Plenty pics online of sockets melting.

    Also, a socket tends not to be on a dedicated circuit and so if its drawing the max and then you have something else on the circuit that starts up it could also cause a fire hazard depending on quality of the wiring.

    You can negate that by ensuring its a good quality socket and regularly checking for heat yourself and successfully use a granny charger for years without issue but as a general rule its just safer to use a proper charge point and let the granny cable for emergency use. It is also what the car manufacturers even say in their literature about granny cables.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,818 ✭✭✭✭Cyrus


    that's the most important piece of info in deciding what tariff makes sense



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,032 ✭✭✭✭CoBo55


    Oh thank God for that 🥵

    I don't even have a granny charger, thank ****… actually I don't have a 3 pin outdoor socket either, win win.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 423 ✭✭Skyfloater


    I have an electrician due tomorrow, and I want to make sure we're on the same page.

    If the wall charger you get has a built in emergency cut off switch, do you still need a separate isolator switch within 2 meters?

    Also, am I right in saying that if the run from the CU to the charger is under 20 meters(?) it's 6mm sq. But if it's longer, then 10mm sq should be used.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,420 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    The separate isolator is required.

    As far as I know, 4mm cable is fine, but in your case, at least 6mm would be advisable for the 20M run. If they can run 10mm cable, all the better. The cost shouldn't be much more. The electrician will be the one with the knowledge. The 10mm cable will have a lower resistance and will save on electricity compared to a 6mm cable over that distance, hopefully paying for itself over time as well as being safer.

    Stay Free



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 423 ✭✭Skyfloater


    Yeah, that's what I was thinking about the 10mm sq. Sure why not, the cost difference is minimal.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,032 ✭✭✭✭CoBo55


    The difference in resistance on an AC circuit would be absolutely tiny if even measurable, it certainly wouldn't save any money. 10mm cable is quite difficult to work with compared to 6mm the electrician might not be that happy.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,261 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    A qualified electrician will know what he’s doing.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,358 ✭✭✭✭listermint




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,420 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    Resistance of 20m of 6mm cable is just 0.13 Ohm compared to only 0.076 Ohm of 10mm cable. So temperature dependent it's about 25-30% resistance difference. Will it make a big difference in the savings? No. Will it pay for itself? It's worth watching the electrician sweat to make their money. So on that front, it's priceless 😂

    Seriously though, it's worthwhile if only a few quid extra, because you could then split off the 10mm if it's terminated into a junction box before going to the charge point. The extra beef on the line will allow the OP to utilise that down the line.

    Stay Free



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,032 ✭✭✭✭CoBo55


    Are you allowed to tap into the cable? I didn't think you were. I was thinking of getting an outdoor socket in addition to the CP, wiring it from the isolator would be the easiest place to connect it.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,420 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    After the grant is paid, you can get your electrician to add whatever else you want as long as it is done the right way. I could be wrong though, i'm not a leccy

    Stay Free



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 215 ✭✭crank_1975


    I'm not sure if this is the right place so Mods feel free to move but I got the Circontol eHome charger installed 4 years ago and it has stopped working (red light flashing). I rang Electric Ireland (whoi I arranged the original purchase / install with) and the company they used for the installs (Smartzone) went into administration. I am struggling to find someone to come out and have a look at the charger and potentially advise on a repair and I don't want to have to replace. Has anyone got any contacts etc. that I could reach out to? I am in Meath.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,358 ✭✭✭✭listermint




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,178 ✭✭✭✭AndyBoBandy


    When the house tails need to be upgraded to 16sq in order to install a charge point, is that a job any reci electrician can do or is an ESBN job? If ESBN Is there a fixed price for the upgrade?

    IMG_2272.jpeg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,420 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    https://circontrol.com/usermanual/manual-ehome-eng.pdf

    That's the user manual. Looks like a short circuit to earth may be the problem.

    If you are competent enough to isolate the power at the CU and open the charge unit, you could check to see that the terminals are secured in the unit. Over time, they can become loose. I just replaced an outdoor socket yesterday for the same reason. Loose cable was causing tripping and heating, so I isolated the circuit and replaced it with a brand new unit. If you see any signs of over heating at the terminal (brown, yellow staining etc), I highly recommend you have the unit replaced and leave it shut off until you do.

    Stay Free



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 697 ✭✭✭bunderoon


    Getting a Zappi v2 installed soon.

    CU is the other side of our bungalow to where I want the charger mounted on the Garage wall. 25m max from point to point (including slack) through the attics of house and unfinished garage. Will run 2 x Cat6 from charger to my comms cabinet. Zappi already wired with ethernet to cabinet and Eddi connects to Harvi wirelessly in ESB enclosure. Eddie in middle of house in hotpress.

    These questions have probably been asked and answered multiple times, so apologies.

    Q1 - As the run is over 20m, should it be best to run 10sqm Twin and earth? No need for SWA I would think as its all internal wiring. I want cable to go through the wall to rear grommet of charger so no cable is exposed etc. Charging will be done between 2am - 5am and probably overrun into 6am sometimes which is fine. EV BG Smart Plan.

    Q2 - 32A RCBO at CU ? What should my Electrician use?

    Q3 - Does the zappi need an AC cutoff switch mounted right beside the charger (New regs I hear)? If so, I would prefer it to be placed inside the garage <2m away through sliding door access. The cable will come down from the garage rafters down the wall anyway before going through the wall to the charger. Plan is to renovate garage in near future to home office. I'm conscious of insulation and heat of cable etc.

    Have I missed anything?

    Thanks in advance.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,358 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Tails is RECI job not esb. You may need an updated Earth Rod. It has to be visible and accessible for compliance.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,420 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    1. Best to run 10mm. Internal, so T&E is fine.
    2. 32A Yes
    3. CP needs isolator. I don't know if it would be OK to have this inside the garage if the CP is outside. If the Isolator is outside, you should not have any exposed cable externally unless it's armoured cable at a minimum. I have seen some nice installs where the isolator is a black/grey colour and is butted up to the CP, so no cables visible.

    Stay Free



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,261 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    tails is partly a ESBN job and it’s a fixed price. A RECI can’t isolate the meter to disconnect the tails. Only ESBN can



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,178 ✭✭✭✭AndyBoBandy


    so the reci will run the new cables to the meter and the consumer unit, but ESBN will connect the new tails into their meter? And then the reci swaps the cables at the consumer unit? So they’d need to be coordinated and be there together?



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