Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Please note that it is not permitted to have referral links posted in your signature. Keep these links contained in the appropriate forum. Thank you.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2055940817/signature-rules

Best Electricity Plan for new EV Owners

Options
1154155157159160163

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 5,539 ✭✭✭obi604


    I signed up for BWG offer for electricity day/night on the 20th March. I got a letter in the post today from Flogas (no email)

    No mention of the word BWG and no mention of the day and night rates in the letter, just to the generic price plans

    Not sure if this is BWG or not - Anyone have any ideas?

    Letter states:

    full details of your electricity tariff please visit www.flogas.ie/residential/price-plans

    We're delighted to confirm that you have successfully switched your electricity supply to Flogas.

    Your Offer: DG1 NSAV AFF Fixed Elec 12 Mar24 RN



  • Registered Users Posts: 13,375 ✭✭✭✭prawnsambo


    If you search around you'll find that the code is the same as people quoted for the BWG rate. DG1 is urban, DG2 is rural. All the others are the same. AFF likely stands for Affinity (BWG rate I think), NSAV stands for nightsaver.



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,539 ✭✭✭obi604


    On a standard house built about 20 years ago, what is the max kW they are rated for?

    above example has 7+2+2+2.5=13.5kW



  • Registered Users Posts: 13,375 ✭✭✭✭prawnsambo


    Normal consumer unit fuse is 63A. Which works out to about 15kW.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,031 ✭✭✭witnessmenow


    My house was built about 25 years ago and has a 60Amp fuse before the meterbox. I don't know if any work was done on the electrical since it was built (other than the smart meter was installed a months ago). That example is pushing on the limits of the fuse.

    I assume the zappi that is installed is configured to back off much earlier than that, but I don't actually know



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 5,539 ✭✭✭obi604


    so, as above works out at about 15kW max.

    I tend to get my car charging done in first few hours of night rate, midnight to 6am, then run dishwasher and then run washing machine, then dryer if needed, so stagger them all out to avoid load issues



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,031 ✭✭✭witnessmenow


    Where are you getting 15kW?

    230V X 60A = 13.8kW. that's assuming a 230V, when it could be 220V (which would be 13.2kW)



  • Registered Users Posts: 13,375 ✭✭✭✭prawnsambo


    Rated voltage for the ESB Network is 240V

    Edit: The UK is 230V, which leads to a lot of confusion since we get a lot of UK rated equipment here and we're used to seeing 230V on stuff.



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,539 ✭✭✭obi604


    im not saying its exactly 15kw, just roughly about 15kw



  • Registered Users Posts: 13,375 ✭✭✭✭prawnsambo


    At 240V on a 63A (standard consumer unit fuse) it's 15kW. Would be lower for a 60A fuse, but not much.



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 13,375 ✭✭✭✭prawnsambo


    Well I've had many discussions with the ESB over the years about over and under voltages destroying delicate electronic equipment and they have always told me that the nominal voltage is 240V. And this is what they say on their website, which kind of renders the discussion moot 😂:

    ESB Networks delivers electricity in a voltage range of 207 Volts to
    253 Volts. This is in accordance with European Standard EN50160.

    Edit: I remember talking to a lad who did his thesis on ESB networks and electricity supply and who was given access to their data and he told me that the network voltage was basically determined by consumption. His words "it's basically running wild in the cables and we're the ones keeping it under control".



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,105 ✭✭✭joe1303l


    You should be good to run them all and charge your car all at the same time. Your charger should reduce its charge rate if required. I’m presuming you have a CT clamp set up correctly.



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,903 ✭✭✭CoBo55


    Ha ha your last paragraph made me laugh 😂😂 I hope he didn't get his PhD after writing that in his thesis😂😂.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,636 ✭✭✭sillysocks


    I'm very new to EVs and looking for some help on electricity rates. I've just put a deposit on an ID3, 2022, 58kw battery. I don't do a lot of driving, mainly just town driving, with once a week a 100km round trip. I usually would do around 300/350km a week in total. We have solar panels, with no battery. Getting a Zappi fitted shortly.

    At the moment we pay around 26c per unit with electric Ireland and get 21c per unit back for any solar we don't use. Where I'm getting confused is whether I should be changing tariffs for the EV or not. With my driving I'm hoping to only need to charge the car fully once a week. I WFH most days and can plug the car in during the day when we have surplus solar (although I know this essentially costs the 21c we would have gotten back had we not used that surplus).

    When I look at day/night rates what's making me question a move is that the peak/daytime rates are so much higher. Yes I could then charge the car a lot cheaper, but if that's only once a week would the savings not be swallowed up by the higher rates the rest of the day when we're most likely to use electricity? Again, because I WFH a lot I tend to use the washing machine/dryer/dishwasher etc during the day esp on bright days when solar can be used. I don't really want to switch to using those at night every time.

    I also have the option to charge the car at work once a week, although from looking at the charging system there it's a 7.7kw AC charger and costs 0.22 per kWh to use - again I'm new to this but I think that's a very slow charger?

    Sorry that's longer than I expected! Appreciate any help.



  • Registered Users Posts: 467 ✭✭ax530


    Talking to someone during the week who took out smart meter put in day/night meter to be more economical for electric car charging.

    I have a smart meter but still on the rural day/night plan had since before smart meter put in.

    Currently run dishwasher every night, washing machine few nights during week and car charger during night rate but only top up every few days. WFH every day.

    I'm trying to research what to do when my contract expires - can I sign up for another day/night - must I move to a smart plan - should I get smart meter taken out.

    Will take me a while to look back over all this thread and provide fees.

    any other pointers or advice appreciated



  • Registered Users Posts: 13,375 ✭✭✭✭prawnsambo


    Everybody's use case is different. By the sound of it, you probably should stay on the rate you have currently. The best night rates are in and around 14c/kWh which is a difference of 7c/kWh based on your solar. Taking a full charge from 0 to 100% (something you'll never do, but just taken as an indicative measure of your full fill) that's a difference of 7c x 58 = €4 a week.

    You can use that figure to see what you'd lose on the roundabouts of a possibly higher day rate taking solar into account.

    The work charger is pretty much the same speed as your home Zappi (7.2kWh). And it would be costing you 1c more than your solar microgen rate, so much of a muchness. Assuming you're at work for 7 to 8 hours, it would fully charge your car (again unlikely that you'd be charging from 0 to 100%).



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,636 ✭✭✭sillysocks


    thanks for the quick reply! That's pretty much what I've been thinking but wasn't sure if I was missing something. I think for now we might wait and see, but if it was only 4eur a week more to charge and that meant not having to think about whether we are in peak times/off peak times etc before using electricity that would be worth it for me. We already try to use the most electricity when we have solar so would be good to avoid another complication on rates.

    Am I correct in thinking if the car is 58kw battery, I just multiply the 58 by unit cost to get the price per full charge? So at 22c/kw it would be around 12eur to charge.

    And then 58 divided by the speed of the charger (7.7kw for example) gives the time it would take to fully charge from 0?



  • Registered Users Posts: 13,375 ✭✭✭✭prawnsambo


    Am I correct in thinking if the car is 58kw battery, I just multiply the 58 by unit cost to get the price per full charge? So at 22c/kw it would be around 12eur to charge.

    And then 58 divided by the speed of the charger (7.7kw for example) gives the time it would take to fully charge from 0?

    Spot on on both counts. Also worth bearing in mind that you will never be charging from 0 to 100. Firstly because manufacturers recommend you don't routinely charge beyond 80 to 90% and you'll very seldom (probably never) run the car down to 0%. So your charging session at most would be from 10-90% which is 46kWh.



  • Registered Users Posts: 33,820 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Well.. slightly accurate the 7.7 detailed by the charger won't be the value going into the vehicle counting for AC to DC the car will take less than the 7.7 so the time will be longer. 7.7 could be 6.8 ... apples oranges kiwi's



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 2,636 ✭✭✭sillysocks


    Thank you both, between this and the solar panels it's been a steep learning curve the last month or two!

    I've seen on the map for chargers that some chargers locally are AC and some are DC - is that something I need to understand!?

    Also, if the home charger charges at around 7kw, if I'm in say my parents house where the won't be a home charger and I use a granny cable what KW would I get from that charger?



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,590 ✭✭✭MojoMaker


    10A or circa 2.3kw/h max. Maybe slightly less.



  • Registered Users Posts: 701 ✭✭✭crl84


    If you're only charging fully once a week, have a look at the EI weekender plan with free electricity 8am-11pm. I think BG do something similar but shorter window and usage limits.

    I'm in the same boat as you, and it works for us, as the EV consumes by far the most electricity of anything each week.

    Have to work out how many units you're using from grid at the moment on the other 6 days and see if it would work out. Most Sundays we do 80kw and far less than that during the rest of the week.

    If you're running the house and dishwasher etc during the week from solar, and then charging the EV on Sat/Sun for free (plus anything else you want to run that day), then you could significantly reduce your bills I'd say?



  • Registered Users Posts: 13,375 ✭✭✭✭prawnsambo


    AC chargers are slower than DC. AC go up to 22kWh and generally use the type two socket.

    DC chargers (CCS2) start about 50kWh and go up to 400kWh. The socket is a combination of the AC socket above with an extra two pin socket below it. Below is a picture of all the different types around the world. It doesn't include the ChaDeMo socket (most commonly used on Nissans) as these will be phased out.



  • Registered Users Posts: 701 ✭✭✭crl84


    Granny charger will probably be around 2.3kwh.

    Yes, AC will be your home charger connector and is up to a max of 7kw on ID3.

    If you open your charging port flap you'll see a rubber bung, that once you open it, there's some extra pins, for DC connections. DC chargers are usually significantly faster than AC chargers. I think the 58kw ID3 can DC charge at up to 100kwh, so using a DC charger of over that speed can theoretically* charge your car at 100kwh. These will be the ones you'll want to use if doing longer trips and needing to charge quickly mid-journey.

    *actual speed will depend on the heat in the battery when you start, and if the charger is delivering the full load, some charging units will have two cables allowing two vehicles to connect at the same, and split the load, eg. a 150kw DC charger delivers 75Kw to two cars at once.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,636 ✭✭✭sillysocks


    We need a dummies guide to EV!

    Is there a different charger needed for the home charging and fast DC chargers? Or is the lead the same on the car side and just the charger itself is different?



  • Registered Users Posts: 687 ✭✭✭tommythecat


    If you look at the picture two posts above. Under the europe section you will see the two charger connections for AC and DC. CCS2 is the fast charger connection which is basically the AC connection(type 2) with two extra connections at the bottom.

    Unless your car is Chademo

    4kwp South East facing PV System. 5.3kwh Weco battery. South Dublin City.



  • Registered Users Posts: 11,782 ✭✭✭✭Flinty997


    The ID3 onboard AC charger is 11kw. So that's the max you'll get from a public AC charger if it's 22kw. If you want faster speeds go to DC charger. So check on the plugshare or similar app what speed the charger is. I've got caught thinking it's a fast charger when it was a slow AC one.

    It's generally advised to use a slow charger most of the time and keep the battery between 20-80%. Unless you need longer, then charge to 100%.

    Takes quite a while to get used to it. Seems complicated at first. When I got my EV I tested it a few different public chargers at leisure so I have some experience when I needed it.



  • Registered Users Posts: 11,782 ✭✭✭✭Flinty997


    Worth going to a few public chargers and testing them. Make sure you have the app all working and know how to unplug and plug in. They all seem to too it a little differently.

    Having a fob for different networks is handy. Keep them in the car..



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 13,375 ✭✭✭✭prawnsambo


    Also look at what chargers are close to you and on routes you normally take using something like PlugShare. Lidl have EasyGo chargers and Tesco have ESB eCars for example. So if these are nearby, well worth getting an ESB eCars charge card (free) and get both apps. You can also get an EasyGo RFID fob, but that's an extra €6.

    And then as @Flinty997 says, do a few test charges on these to get yourself familiar with how they work with no stress involved. Maybe when doing your weekly shopping.



Advertisement