Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Please note that it is not permitted to have referral links posted in your signature. Keep these links contained in the appropriate forum. Thank you.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2055940817/signature-rules

Home charge points (purchase/problems/questions) (See mod note post#1)

1259260262264265297

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,032 ✭✭✭Buffman


    Why would you submit the original sales receipt, presumably you'd be paying less than new anyway so the value on the original receipt would not be accurate. In that situation you get the seller to write you a receipt for the actual cost. It's highly unlikely the installation cost will be less than the €300 grant so the grant will probably be 'used' up on that anyway.

    Grant aside you'd probably want the original receipt if there's any warranty left on it.

    I don't see any requirement on the SEAI grant site for the charger to be brand new, once it's on the accepted list it qualifies for the grant.

    The below is a general 'signature' and not part of any post:

    FYI, if you move to a 'smart' meter electricity plan, you CAN'T move back to a non-smart plan.

    You don't have to take a 'smart' meter if you don't want one, opt-out is available.

    Buy drinks in 3L or bigger plastic bottles or glass bottles or cartons to avoid the DRS fee.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,322 ✭✭✭obi604


    I am trying to find out what you need to submit to satisfy the grant paperwork. I thought they may ask for original invoice etc, im not sure how to works so looking to get the info



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 526 ✭✭✭lukas8888


    Apologies your correct. I think in the early days when I received it that was a requirement.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,032 ✭✭✭Buffman


    Before spending any massive money on getting two 7kW chargers installed it might be worth considering your usage. Will both cars be arriving home every night with nearly empty batteries and require a significant charge? Can you get away with alternating charging on the cheap rate every second night or having a combination of 7Kw and granny charger/16A charger?

    The below is a general 'signature' and not part of any post:

    FYI, if you move to a 'smart' meter electricity plan, you CAN'T move back to a non-smart plan.

    You don't have to take a 'smart' meter if you don't want one, opt-out is available.

    Buy drinks in 3L or bigger plastic bottles or glass bottles or cartons to avoid the DRS fee.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,032 ✭✭✭Buffman


    For a second-hand qualifying charger a hand written accurate receipt would be sufficient.

    The original invoice would presumably show the incorrect original 'new' charger cost, presumably higher than what you actually paid for it second-hand and would not be in the applicants name.

    Point 20 of the grant T&Cs:

    "Any false, fictitious or fraudulent statements or claims knowingly made on grant applications, or supporting documentation, submitted in respect of previous grant applications / claims or otherwise made to SEAI, its authorised officers, or Inspector, or any breach of these Terms and Conditions of the Scheme may result in current and future applications being deemed ineligible by SEAI. In respect of applications where the Applicant has already received payment pursuant to the Scheme, Clause 20 shall also apply."

    https://www.seai.ie/grants/electric-vehicle-grants/electric-vehicle-home-charger-grant/

    The below is a general 'signature' and not part of any post:

    FYI, if you move to a 'smart' meter electricity plan, you CAN'T move back to a non-smart plan.

    You don't have to take a 'smart' meter if you don't want one, opt-out is available.

    Buy drinks in 3L or bigger plastic bottles or glass bottles or cartons to avoid the DRS fee.



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,322 ✭✭✭obi604




  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,825 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    Why are you thinking this scenario, we have two EVs, combined 120kWh+ battery and we've never had an issue in 5 years of two EVs, just charge one at a time over alternative nights and if it comes to it you can still granny charge the other at the same time...



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 92 ✭✭davidivad


    I am thinking this scenario, as I'm thinking of getting a hybrid that covers supposedly 100km on electric only, 25kw battery.

    My wife has an ID4 77kw battery. I want to do all my charging at the cheaper night rate.

    We both work half an hour from home.

    I travel 85km a day on my commute to and from work.

    I will need to charge my car every day Monday-Friday, as I generally do a small bit of shopping on a Saturday in town too.

    She could charge Saturday and Sunday night and max she would get in would be 56kw.

    That is to do it all on the cheaper night rate. I understand, that is not completely necessary, however the second charger could pay for itself in a few years if everything is on cheaper night rate.

    I am thinking of getting wires put down for a second one and then if necessary, I could get it installed down the line. No harm in future proofing anyway.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 92 ✭✭davidivad


    Perfect, thanks for this link, it did answer all my questions. This poster had the exact scenario I was looking for.


    "2 ev. main one does approx 1000k a week so it is charged most nights from 2 - 6 on the energia EV rate , leaf is connected to granny charger which has a home assistant compatible socket so it turns on from 2 - 6. Battery get 12kwh in over the 4 hours also so on most nights use close to 55KWH at the reduced rate.

    Zappi - 28kwh, Granny Charger ~8kWh, Battery 12kWh, heatpump / hot water / dishwasher all run at ev rate"


    This scenario would suit me down to the ground and keeps everything on the cheaper rate, which I think is imperative in using an electric car.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,825 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    I think your standard charge point and 3 pin would cover it. At what rate can your hybrid charge at? No point in investing in a second charge point if the PHEV can only charge a little more than via a 3pin



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,032 ✭✭✭Buffman


    What PHEV are you thinking of getting? Most PHEVs only have 16A/3.6kW onboard charger so it will never get a full 25kW charge in the 4 hours cheap rate no matter what it's plugged into. Presumably you're looking at something with a larger onboard charger like a Merc C300e?

    The below is a general 'signature' and not part of any post:

    FYI, if you move to a 'smart' meter electricity plan, you CAN'T move back to a non-smart plan.

    You don't have to take a 'smart' meter if you don't want one, opt-out is available.

    Buy drinks in 3L or bigger plastic bottles or glass bottles or cartons to avoid the DRS fee.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 92 ✭✭davidivad


    The new 2024 skoda superb iv.

    Has a claimed range of 100km electric only in the estate iv.

    IMG_6411.jpeg

    It’s due out around June.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,032 ✭✭✭✭CoBo55


    Deleted, looked up the new Superb, it is Indeed a completely new drive train, it'll be strong money I'd suspect 🥵. Nice to see proper AC charging speed and DC charging as well.

    Post edited by CoBo55 on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,032 ✭✭✭Buffman


    Nice, I think useless you're planning electrical upgrades anyway, you should see how you get on before spending any substantial money on a second 7kW charger and associated works. I reckon you'd be fairly OK with your current 7kW set up with granny charger supporting. Something like start Monday morning with both cars fully charged, charge the Skoda every weeknight on the 7kW and have the ID4 on granny to keep it going for the weekdays.

    Even only at 2kWish granny speed you'll get 8kWish into the ID4 every weeknight during your 4 hours cheap rate which will add up over the week.

    The below is a general 'signature' and not part of any post:

    FYI, if you move to a 'smart' meter electricity plan, you CAN'T move back to a non-smart plan.

    You don't have to take a 'smart' meter if you don't want one, opt-out is available.

    Buy drinks in 3L or bigger plastic bottles or glass bottles or cartons to avoid the DRS fee.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 92 ✭✭davidivad


    Is there any new car, ICE or BEV that isn’t strong money these day. 😮

    Money for cars is gone crazy.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 92 ✭✭davidivad


    Ya but like, a nice car!!! 🫣😂

    Also it has to be a family car!




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,322 ✭✭✭obi604


    I know the isolation switch has to be installed beside the charger on the outside of the house etc and I know this is new rules etc, I am just trying to get the common sense side of it

    I guess any electrician or anyone doing work on the charger will need access to the property anyway and will switch off the power at the fuse board i.e electrician would not normally be locked out of house and need to simply rely on the isolation switch

    probably not common yet, but having this isolation switch must make these chargers easier to steal, maybe 5 mins work for someone. might not be common now, but maybe some day will be

    I just dont get the common sense advantages of an isolation switch or maybe im missing something obvious



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,358 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    It's for a user to be able to isolate it in case of a fault quickly and visibly. And yes it's regs.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,032 ✭✭✭✭CoBo55


    Mother of God 🫣. Two bean tins😡 I'd rather walk, they're like the cheapest of the cheap hire cars☺️



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,420 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    Goal posts.

    You asked "Is there any new car". You didn't say family car, or define what a family car is to you. "nice car" is completely subjective.

    Stay Free



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,420 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    Safety aside, having no isolator would add maybe 30 seconds to the amount of time it would take a scummer to steal the charge point. Sure, they might get electrocuted if there was no isolator, but then they'd probably sue you for getting electrocuted because your charge point wasn't safe to steal.

    Stay Free



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,420 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    Personally I wouldn't drive one if I was stuck in the lashing rain with 4 bags of grocery shopping in each hand. I'd take a taxi. But that wasn't the question the other poster asked. They are cheap new cars, bottom of the market and are aimed at teenage girls and grannies.

    Stay Free



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,032 ✭✭✭✭CoBo55


    I think he was being tongue in cheek but shur look you went to the bother of finding two "cheap" cars for him...



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 92 ✭✭davidivad


    Thanks for all the help guys. I also see some lads here talking about fuses. I have a house built in 2017, with single phase, 12kva, but I have a 100 amp fuse. The solar panel guy thought this was very odd and dangerous!!

    Is he right, should I get onto ESB. Like I'm going to be charging two cars at night, running heat pump, charging battery and running dishwasher/washing machine. I need this to be safe at the very least.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,358 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    The 100Amp is the new standard fuse for latest electrical requirements put on homes. EVs, heatpumps and solar. The solar guy should have known this.

    The tails should be updated to new regs too. I think that's 25 sq.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,322 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    I have a house built in 2017, with single phase, 12kva, but I have a 100 amp fuse. 

    I presume he means the ESB owned fuse, not the main fuse you have on your consumer unit which is presumably a 60A fuse?

    Take a look at it or post a pic of your consumer unit.

    Whatever rating is on that fuse is what you are limited to , not to the rating on the ESB fuse.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,420 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    Oh yeah, I know. I was just having a laugh tbh.

    Stay Free



  • Posts: 2,704 [Deleted User]


    If it's in your distribution board then it's probably not a fuse. Most likely your main "fuse" mcb would be in the meter cabinet and an isolator in your board. Although if that is the case I'd now worry about that solar guy not knowing the difference.



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 92 ✭✭davidivad


    It was my main ESB board, so ye are happy with 100amp so then I am too.


    here’s a pic of my fuse board, also 100amp? Is that right? That safe too?

    IMG_6470.jpeg




Advertisement