the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Remove pads then Clean, and flush with wd40 or similar.

Let it soak for a while then work the pivots by hand and see if it frees up.

Ive never disassembled a modern caliper but I remember doing an older one and not being able to make it work properly afterwards

I wouldn't think it'd be a good idea to disassemble, but I'd say the WD-40/GT-85 approach, rinse it off, let it dry and then give it a good spray with some penetrating oil or similar would be your best bet. It worked for me on a stuck Shimano shifter which would be more delicate than the caliper

what are the best options to replace this tyre? Got a glass slash and side wall is gone..Its tubeless stock tyres from giant.

Thanks

weekend spins mostly but towards the hills in a carbon bike

will hard wired ones work on this ? I have a spare one but not sure its fit for purpose..its botranger and i know its not tubeless

Just looking for some general advice, thinking about fitting an easier granny gear on my cube cx bike, just to make it easier when touring and hauling fully loaded bike up the gradients. Say I wanted an 11-42 cassette on the back, what else needs to be changed out? Rear derailleur I guess for starters. Shifters? new chain?

SHIFT/ BRAKE LEVERS - Shimano Tiagra ST-4700

BRAKE SYSTEM - TRP Spyre MD-C610C, Flat Mount (160/160)

REAR DERAILLEUR - Shimano Tiagra RD-4700GS, 10-Speed

FRONT DERAILLEUR - Shimano Tiagra FD-4700, 31.8mm Clamp

BOTTOM BRACKET - Shimano BB-RS500PB, Pressfit

CRANKSET - Shimano Tiagra FC-4700, 50x34T

CASSETTE - Shimano CS-HG500, 11-34T

CHAIN - KMC X10

I've put a 36T on a non-series Tiagra level rear with I think 34T capacity with no problems - there was plenty of clearance and the B screw hadn't bottomed out so I'd say a couple more teeth would have been ok.. A Wolftooth Roadlink or similar should probably give you headroom and would be my next port of call if I discover I need really low gears. Didn't the pull ratio change between Tiagra 4600 and 4700? It's probably only something to beware of if swapping out either derailleur or shifter.

By the way.. Not sure if your aware, that "hole" in the wheel rim is a wear indicator. Once its worn away your supposed to change your wheels ans the rim has worn down to its minimum thickness.

Nothing in life is as sure to reduce me to tears as trying to index a rear derailleur. Christ on a bike.

I've tried and failed. Limit screws are set correctly. Cable tension has been checked. Shifting up the cassette is spot on. Shifting down started off skipping one cog, now skipping about 4.

Barring a miracle it's down to the LBS (again!) I go.

Couple of things to check. First and foremost is the derailleur hanger bent at all? Secondly, and more of a long shot, I had similar issues a while back - shifted fine one way skipped the other or vice versa. Since it was when I put on the bigger cassette I mentioned a few posts back, I thought it must have been down to that so took it to the LBS. Turns out a sliver of a strand of cable had got trapped in the shifter at some point and caused issues

In my experience, always the latter

i'd say its straight across. I recently measured my new bike for mudguards and the width for the rear was just over 35mm (where a rear caliper brake would be fitted). I got 35mm mudguards and they fit perfectly