if it was the first time in six years that the chain and cassette were replaced, i'd be worried about worn chainrings too.
I attended to my HY/RDs (reservoir in the calipers so bit more faff) when the braking started getting a bit spongy. At that I only bled them which topped them up but didn't replace all the fluid. That was only after about 6 years albeit without enormous mileage (bike serves as winter commuter and holiday do-it-all mainly)
My rear caliper (105 R7000 rim brake) has stopped springing back after I pull the lever. Checked the cable and I'm happy that it is ok. The caliper doesn't spring back with the cable loosened.
Is it likely to be some dirt trapped at the pivot areas or is the spring knackered or what is most likely to be the issue. The spring surface looks rusty FWIW. Are these straight forwards to disassemble or am I likely to bugger it up by going at it? Am I better off disassembling it in situ or remove from the bike first?
First thing I'd do is take it off, and give it a good clean.
Remove pads then Clean, and flush with wd40 or similar.
Let it soak for a while then work the pivots by hand and see if it frees up.
Ive never disassembled a modern caliper but I remember doing an older one and not being able to make it work properly afterwards
Blast it with WD40 or GT 85, wipe, reblast, done.
I wouldn't think it'd be a good idea to disassemble, but I'd say the WD-40/GT-85 approach, rinse it off, let it dry and then give it a good spray with some penetrating oil or similar would be your best bet. It worked for me on a stuck Shimano shifter which would be more delicate than the caliper
Exact thing happened to me only a couple of weeks ago. Removed caliper from bike, disassembled and cleaned, and when I put it back together and reinstalled the issue remained. Couldn't figure it out and then just loosened the nut shown in the screenshot a tiny bit. Working perfectly again. When I had reasembled I had tightened it a tad too much. Check for grime and dirt at that point.
what are the best options to replace this tyre? Got a glass slash and side wall is gone..Its tubeless stock tyres from giant.
Thanks
What's your main use, commute, weekend spins or racing? And where?
weekend spins mostly but towards the hills in a carbon bike
Any 700x25 will do but I would recommend going to 38 or 32 if your frame has the space. Personally i love the Conti GP5000k but there are several tyres that will do the job just fine. Just pick a reputable brand, there will be others in a few minutes to give their preference, all of them will be good recommendatiosn.
Any 700x25 will do but I would recommend going to 38 or 32 if your frame has the space.
Just for clarity, if @Roberto_gas intends on staying with a tubeless setup then the tyres will need to be tubeless ready
yes i plan to stick to tubeless..however if anyone else has good non-tubeless reccos i am up for it !
will hard wired ones work on this ? I have a spare one but not sure its fit for purpose..its botranger and i know its not tubeless
Apologies, missed the tubeless bit.
Just looking for some general advice, thinking about fitting an easier granny gear on my cube cx bike, just to make it easier when touring and hauling fully loaded bike up the gradients. Say I wanted an 11-42 cassette on the back, what else needs to be changed out? Rear derailleur I guess for starters. Shifters? new chain?
SHIFT/ BRAKE LEVERS - Shimano Tiagra ST-4700
BRAKE SYSTEM - TRP Spyre MD-C610C, Flat Mount (160/160)
REAR DERAILLEUR - Shimano Tiagra RD-4700GS, 10-Speed
FRONT DERAILLEUR - Shimano Tiagra FD-4700, 31.8mm Clamp
BOTTOM BRACKET - Shimano BB-RS500PB, Pressfit
CRANKSET - Shimano Tiagra FC-4700, 50x34T
CASSETTE - Shimano CS-HG500, 11-34T
CHAIN - KMC X10
You might get away with the rear derailleur, they are meant to take close to 40t anyway and Shimano are quite conservative. I'd initially just buy the cassette and chain, see if it works. If it doesn't, then order the rear derailleur but so long as you don't cross chain, I think it will be fine.
I've put a 36T on a non-series Tiagra level rear with I think 34T capacity with no problems - there was plenty of clearance and the B screw hadn't bottomed out so I'd say a couple more teeth would have been ok.. A Wolftooth Roadlink or similar should probably give you headroom and would be my next port of call if I discover I need really low gears. Didn't the pull ratio change between Tiagra 4600 and 4700? It's probably only something to beware of if swapping out either derailleur or shifter.
I threw a 11-40 on my 105 Cube Nuroad a page back or two. Shifting has taken a small hit and I can't cross chain, so limit myself to 8-9 or so gears on either ring. I didn't bother using the new chain, original chain is around 114 links. The b screw did need adjusting and I needed a longer b screw to achieve this. Otherwise it works great. Big granny gear for w200...
Couldn't use a wolftooth as the cube uses direct mount.
By the way.. Not sure if your aware, that "hole" in the wheel rim is a wear indicator. Once its worn away your supposed to change your wheels ans the rim has worn down to its minimum thickness.
yes thanks i know...lots of juice left ! Went ahead with same tyre replacement in non-tubeless setup.
Nothing in life is as sure to reduce me to tears as trying to index a rear derailleur. Christ on a bike.
I've tried and failed. Limit screws are set correctly. Cable tension has been checked. Shifting up the cassette is spot on. Shifting down started off skipping one cog, now skipping about 4.
Barring a miracle it's down to the LBS (again!) I go.
fully agree with this!
Couple of things to check. First and foremost is the derailleur hanger bent at all? Secondly, and more of a long shot, I had similar issues a while back - shifted fine one way skipped the other or vice versa. Since it was when I put on the bigger cassette I mentioned a few posts back, I thought it must have been down to that so took it to the LBS. Turns out a sliver of a strand of cable had got trapped in the shifter at some point and caused issues
Derailleur Hanger for my Giant Defy, with Shimano 105 equipment, about 2009
From the myriad of choices, which is the right one?
Or do I just take the two bits into my LBS and start crying?
In my experience, always the latter
Mudguard width question:
If a mudguard is described for example as 35mm wide, does this mean 35mm straight across from edge to edge (as in diameter) or does it mean a 35mm 'arc'?
Thanks.
i'd say its straight across. I recently measured my new bike for mudguards and the width for the rear was just over 35mm (where a rear caliper brake would be fitted). I got 35mm mudguards and they fit perfectly
Great thanks. I suppose that makes sense. I didn't want to order a set that ended up being too wide.
