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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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    #6152
    cletus
    Registered Users Posts: 7,883 ✭✭✭cletus


    Honestly, I'd deal with the stripped fastener now while you can in the comfort of your shed/house, rather than having to deal with it out on the road with no tools etc.



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    #6153
    CramCycle
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,497 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121606127#Comment_121606127

    Get it on now, as said above, it also acts as a spacer, and you run the risk of it coming loose, threading and so on. Nothing might happen but if it does you will be so annoyed you didn't change.



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    #6154
    Utter Consternation
    Registered Users Posts: 926 ✭✭✭Utter Consternation


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121606282#Comment_121606282
    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121615822#Comment_121615822

    Got it back on. Had to battle with the allen screw that was stripped. Pain in the rear.



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    #6155
    07Lapierre
    Registered Users Posts: 8,219 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    Anyone know if/When Hydraulic brake fluid should be replaced?



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    #6156
    cletus
    Registered Users Posts: 7,883 ✭✭✭cletus


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121622349#Comment_121622349

    I would not be changing the fluid in my brakes unless braking performance gave me a reason to



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    #6157
    07Lapierre
    Registered Users Posts: 8,219 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121622482#Comment_121622482

    That's the answer i wanted to hear. Thanks!



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    #6158
    alentejo
    Registered Users Posts: 889 ✭✭✭alentejo


    Replaced chain and cassette one month ago and gears worked perfectly. There were skipping prior to this, however once I changed them, they worked spot on.

    Over the past few days, they have started to skip again. Should I oil/lube the chain already. Could the cold also impact the gears? Any ideas?



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    #6159
    CramCycle
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,497 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121624674#Comment_121624674

    Can you tell us how old the bike is? Can you take a picture of the chainring to put up? Are you able to tell us it indexed correctly?



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    #6160
    alentejo
    Registered Users Posts: 889 ✭✭✭alentejo


    The bike is 6 years old. Replaced the chain and the high gears slipped. Replaced the cassette with an identical set up. Didn't touch the indexing. Once I replaced the cassette, bike gears were like new. No issues. Since last Sunday, the gears have started to slip. I haven't lubed the new chain as typically you get a month or two before you need to. The chain seems like it could do with some lubed. Bike is a hybrid.



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    #6161
    nicksnikita
    Registered Users Posts: 931 ✭✭✭nicksnikita


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121625764#Comment_121625764

    Have a look at the gear cables.

    Check the metal inner cables and the plastic outers. Sometimes the inners fray or the outers split.

    Also check the rear derailleur. Grab the cage, where the lower jockey wheel is, and move it from side to side. If it’s sloppy, that could be your issue.

    Or it could just be indexing. Some photos might help narrow it down 👍



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    #6162
    CramCycle
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,497 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Picture of the chainrings as well if its 6 years old and has had good amount of use.



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    #6163
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,482 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    if it was the first time in six years that the chain and cassette were replaced, i'd be worried about worn chainrings too.



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    #6164
    JMcL
    Registered Users Posts: 2,176 ✭✭✭JMcL


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121622349#Comment_121622349

    I attended to my HY/RDs (reservoir in the calipers so bit more faff) when the braking started getting a bit spongy. At that I only bled them which topped them up but didn't replace all the fluid. That was only after about 6 years albeit without enormous mileage (bike serves as winter commuter and holiday do-it-all mainly)



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    #6165
    Seth Brundle
    Moderators, Politics Moderators Posts: 38,972 Mod ✭✭✭✭Seth Brundle


    My rear caliper (105 R7000 rim brake) has stopped springing back after I pull the lever. Checked the cable and I'm happy that it is ok. The caliper doesn't spring back with the cable loosened.

    Is it likely to be some dirt trapped at the pivot areas or is the spring knackered or what is most likely to be the issue. The spring surface looks rusty FWIW. Are these straight forwards to disassemble or am I likely to bugger it up by going at it? Am I better off disassembling it in situ or remove from the bike first?



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    #6166
    cletus
    Registered Users Posts: 7,883 ✭✭✭cletus


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121657960#Comment_121657960

    First thing I'd do is take it off, and give it a good clean.



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    #6167
    nicksnikita
    Registered Users Posts: 931 ✭✭✭nicksnikita


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121658533#Comment_121658533

    Remove pads then Clean, and flush with wd40 or similar.

    Let it soak for a while then work the pivots by hand and see if it frees up.

    Ive never disassembled a modern caliper but I remember doing an older one and not being able to make it work properly afterwards



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    #6168
    CramCycle
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,497 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Blast it with WD40 or GT 85, wipe, reblast, done.



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    #6169
    JMcL
    Registered Users Posts: 2,176 ✭✭✭JMcL


    I wouldn't think it'd be a good idea to disassemble, but I'd say the WD-40/GT-85 approach, rinse it off, let it dry and then give it a good spray with some penetrating oil or similar would be your best bet. It worked for me on a stuck Shimano shifter which would be more delicate than the caliper



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    #6170
    G1032
    Registered Users Posts: 6,951 ✭✭✭G1032


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121657960#Comment_121657960

    Exact thing happened to me only a couple of weeks ago. Removed caliper from bike, disassembled and cleaned, and when I put it back together and reinstalled the issue remained. Couldn't figure it out and then just loosened the nut shown in the screenshot a tiny bit. Working perfectly again. When I had reasembled I had tightened it a tad too much. Check for grime and dirt at that point.

    Screenshot_2024-01-27-17-48-28-85_99c04817c0de5652397fc8b56c3b3817.jpg




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    #6171
    Roberto_gas
    Registered Users Posts: 3,949 ✭✭✭Roberto_gas


    IMG_5655.jpeg

    what are the best options to replace this tyre? Got a glass slash and side wall is gone..Its tubeless stock tyres from giant.


    Thanks



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    #6172
    CramCycle
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,497 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121684245#Comment_121684245

    What's your main use, commute, weekend spins or racing? And where?



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    #6173
    Roberto_gas
    Registered Users Posts: 3,949 ✭✭✭Roberto_gas


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121684676#Comment_121684676

    weekend spins mostly but towards the hills in a carbon bike



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    #6174
    CramCycle
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,497 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121684757#Comment_121684757

    Any 700x25 will do but I would recommend going to 38 or 32 if your frame has the space. Personally i love the Conti GP5000k but there are several tyres that will do the job just fine. Just pick a reputable brand, there will be others in a few minutes to give their preference, all of them will be good recommendatiosn.



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    #6175
    Seth Brundle
    Moderators, Politics Moderators Posts: 38,972 Mod ✭✭✭✭Seth Brundle


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121685086#Comment_121685086

    Any 700x25 will do but I would recommend going to 38 or 32 if your frame has the space.

    Just for clarity, if @Roberto_gas intends on staying with a tubeless setup then the tyres will need to be tubeless ready



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    #6176
    Roberto_gas
    Registered Users Posts: 3,949 ✭✭✭Roberto_gas


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121685738#Comment_121685738

    yes i plan to stick to tubeless..however if anyone else has good non-tubeless reccos i am up for it !



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    #6177
    Roberto_gas
    Registered Users Posts: 3,949 ✭✭✭Roberto_gas


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121685086#Comment_121685086
    image.jpg

    will hard wired ones work on this ? I have a spare one but not sure its fit for purpose..its botranger and i know its not tubeless



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    #6178
    CramCycle
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,497 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Apologies, missed the tubeless bit.



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    #6179
    RikkFlair
    Registered Users Posts: 3,089 ✭✭✭RikkFlair


    Just looking for some general advice, thinking about fitting an easier granny gear on my cube cx bike, just to make it easier when touring and hauling fully loaded bike up the gradients. Say I wanted an 11-42 cassette on the back, what else needs to be changed out? Rear derailleur I guess for starters. Shifters? new chain?

    SHIFT/ BRAKE LEVERS - Shimano Tiagra ST-4700

    BRAKE SYSTEM - TRP Spyre MD-C610C, Flat Mount (160/160)

    REAR DERAILLEUR - Shimano Tiagra RD-4700GS, 10-Speed

    FRONT DERAILLEUR - Shimano Tiagra FD-4700, 31.8mm Clamp

    BOTTOM BRACKET - Shimano BB-RS500PB, Pressfit

    CRANKSET - Shimano Tiagra FC-4700, 50x34T

    CASSETTE - Shimano CS-HG500, 11-34T

    CHAIN - KMC X10



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    #6180
    CramCycle
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,497 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121719376#Comment_121719376

    You might get away with the rear derailleur, they are meant to take close to 40t anyway and Shimano are quite conservative. I'd initially just buy the cassette and chain, see if it works. If it doesn't, then order the rear derailleur but so long as you don't cross chain, I think it will be fine.



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    #6181
    JMcL
    Registered Users Posts: 2,176 ✭✭✭JMcL


    I've put a 36T on a non-series Tiagra level rear with I think 34T capacity with no problems - there was plenty of clearance and the B screw hadn't bottomed out so I'd say a couple more teeth would have been ok.. A Wolftooth Roadlink or similar should probably give you headroom and would be my next port of call if I discover I need really low gears. Didn't the pull ratio change between Tiagra 4600 and 4700? It's probably only something to beware of if swapping out either derailleur or shifter.



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