Hub Controller options

Hub crowd obviously spent all the massive eu grant money that was given to the utilities to promote the installation of their trivial device. A sub was their next cash cow. The market for real properly engineered smart thermostats is alive and well, competitive, feature rich and not distorted by a grant feeding frenzy (which is destroying competition in the solar and energy upgrade markets). Spend a bit of time exploring the App. Lots of nice features. No bother to a tech savvy not-yet-senior diy fan.

Do you know if you can adjust the schedule on the screen? Also what other replacement options are available that don’t have a subscription?

Is it tripping Current breaker, i.e, a resetable fuse, say 15a or 20a, or is it tripping an RCB (Residual Current Breaker aka Earth Leakage Circuit Brraker) breaker? Are you operating motorised valves with power from the extension kit receiver? Any traces of moisture inside these could cause an imbalance between live current out and return current on the neutral, 30ma is all it takes to tripping an RCB. Tripping a circuit breaker on the other hand is a current overload, often a short, where a hot wire is touching the metal of an earthed casing, like a wall box. These can have sharp edges, and pulling at wires during installation may have cut through the insulation on a metal edge.

Firstly, you wired the Tado receiver (ext kit) in place of the hub controller. You only used the CH terminals. You would have required a link from the Live in on the ext kit to the Com or common of the CH relay in the receiver, and the SL (Switched Live) from the CH normally open contact goes directly to fire the boiler, and turn on the circulation pump. The breaker you show is an RCB, which trips when a small difference of >30 milliamps current is detected in the current going out the live and returning through the neutral. This indicates a leak to ground in the insulation of live components being supplied.

You've identified the ext. kit receiver as the source, and I'm assuming it trips when the stat attempts to fire the boiler. The simplest test is to lift the live out wire from the CH normally open (NO) contact in the receiver, power it on and turn up the stat. If the receiver clicks and closes the CH relay without tripping, but does trip when the NO contact is reconnected, its safe to assume there's an earth leak from the CH relay live in to the boiler. This Live most likely also directly powers the circulation pump. These can occasionally leak water into the stator coils, causing a live leak to ground. Its either the pump, or the boiler.

Is your boiler is a modern one which is separately powered, from a hardwired wall point, or is it powered directly from the live coming from the Tado receiver. There are ample opportunities in a boiler for drips and drops of condensation or a leak to get onto the many live components in the boiler. First test is to isolate the circulation pump and see does the tripping stop when the stat is turned up. A sparks with a good meter is probably required, but this is his workflow to isolate the earth leak. There are numerous places in the boiler where this could occur, but either of the internal jacket thermostats, temperature and limit stat, could be the souce, as they may be in contact with the hot flow, and could allow some water to enter their sensor.

Guys, can anyone help with a weird issue.

I have recently replaced my hub controller with a hive mini bought earlier this year (thanks to the tip off earlier in this thread). I reused the existing wiring from the hub controller and added a bridge between live and common. So wiring is going into N, L, C and 3. I have a green light on the receiver. All three components (thermostat, hub and receiver) are showing as connected and active, but neither the boost or scheduled timer is getting the heating to kick in? Its a single channel receiver only controlling the CH.

If I press boost on the app, the bottom of the two green lights on the receiver turns on so it is indicating that the receiver has received the instruction and activated (at this point both green lights are active) - the boost is set to 23 and current temp is 19, so its not the temp - so I'm a bit stumped? any ideas?

My boiler is a Viessmann combi, installed July last year and is working absolutely fine (we just have to manually turn on the heating, until we get the hive working 😥)

any ideas or suggestions appreciated

Yep, unbelievably your first suggestion was spot on, once I swapped the Live and Neutral around it worked. Thank you

In my defense the cables from the hub controller were all the same colour, but numbered! I was pretty sure I had mapped them correctly, especially when the receiver was lighting up!

Thank you again

B

Black Friday on Screwfix...

TADO V3+ WIRELESS HEATING & HOT WATER SMART THERMOSTAT STARTER KIT WHITE €109.95

TADO V3+ BLACK EDITION WIRELESS HEATING & HOT WATER SMART THERMOSTAT STARTER KIT BLACK €104.95

Can I ask, will these...

https://www.screwfix.ie/p/tado-basic-white-smart-radiator-thermostat-4-pack/837kg

or these...

https://www.screwfix.ie/p/tado-white-smart-trv-head-4-pack/793pg

...screw onto and work in place of my existing manual heads without the need to replace the actual valves?

I have a combi boiler and want to replace a HC as I miss the remote switch on… is the tado v3+ wireless the best and easiest DIY option?

or is it the wired version I should be buying?

If you already have a wired wall thermostat for the CH which calls the boiler, the tado wired is the best option, but the existing stat must be a boiler call, not just a call to a pump or valve. Your HW is on demand from the combi. How do you currently turn on and control CH? By HC do you mean Heating Controller? What do you currently have? What did you have that you 'miss'?

Thanks for reading my questions

the boiler has an inbuilt analogue timer by the looks of it, it is a vokera mynute 14se

no wall stat

not a combi boiler, so hot water tank in hot press

Thanks Deezel.

I used HC for Hub controller.

I have a hub controller that I’m not paying a sub for, so it’s essentially a dumb electric on switch.

I want something that allows me to set a schedule to turn the heating on in the morning and turn on the heating remotely from my phone (it’s the remote on switch that I miss from the hub, I never used their “smart” features.

Ideally I’d love to move it to the hallway (where hub told me it couldn’t go due to a window but I think was more lazyness on their behalf).

But for ease if it’s a simple change I’m happy to do that too. Will look back posts. Appreciate your help deezell.

Thank you @deezell for the info.

Can you tell me what the difference is between Tado's basic TRV head and the smart TRV head?

The Tado wireless is ideal so. Place the wireless stat in your ideal location, and wire up the receiver next to the boiler, with the CH relay connected into the boiler switched live terminals. Job for a sparks, there's usually two terminals with a link across them which let's the boiler run from its own timer or controls. The two wires from the Tado receiver are connected across this links terminals, with the link removed, the boiler's own timer is set to always on, and the Tado now controls boiler firing in response to the wireless stat time and temperature schedules. I'll have a look at that vokera install instructions tomorrow, for the wiring point.