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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,176 ✭✭✭Idleater


    I gave my dad the road bike version a good number of years ago. He uses (definitely used anyway) it for plenty of work including building a set of wheels. We've always done pretty much all the work on bikes ourselves. It's well written with good explanation.



  • Posts: 551 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Not sure if this belongs in its own thread or not but I'm considering trying to turn my hard tail mountain bike into a gravel bike by replacing the front suspension with a solid fork.

    To complicate matters somewhat. The bike is from Trek and uses their boost spacing. Here are the specs of the front fork. I currently have.

    RockShox Recon Gold RL, DebonAir spring, Motion Control damper, lockout, tapered steerer, 42 mm offset, Boost110, 15 mm Maxle Stealth, 100 mm travel

    Does anyone know where the best place to start looking for a replacement rigid fork might be?

    Basically, I want to make this.


    Post edited by [Deleted User] on


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 53,810 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    You'd be looking for a hell of a long fork which maintains the geometry of the bike. With a normal fork, the front of the bike will be about 10cm lower.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,526 ✭✭✭cletus


    First thing Id be looking at is loose cable. Has it moved at the anchor bolt? I'd be adding tension to the cable until i can get the chain to shift. Shouldn't be any reason to change the limit screw



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,642 ✭✭✭JMcL


    Does it shift if you pull the cable while rotating the pedals (stand handy for this)? If so, what cletus said IMHO



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 996 ✭✭✭bbari


    I have a Canyon Road bike and i do 60k to 80k over the weekends. It has very basic pedals with cage. Can someone please recommend click on pedals alongwith shoes? I prefer the one which has one side to click shoes on and the other side is flat which you can use with regular shoes. Thank you



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 6,521 ✭✭✭DaveyDave


    The Shimano PD-EH500 (~€60) or XT PD-T8000 (~€95) are both dual sided for use with clipless and regular shoes.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,642 ✭✭✭JMcL


    On the cheaper side is Boardman Hybrid Team pedals which can be had from Halfords for under €40. I put a pair on my "do everything" bike and am very happy with them so far. Only thing is day is they don't have the biggest platform on the flat side, but that's fine with me - I'll have SPD shoes on if I'm doing any sort of distance.

    Shoes are very personal, and because they can be tight in the fitting, not to mention often wildly fanciful in sizing, can be hard to buy online. Pricing will start around €60 and sky's the limit after that. Certainly for a first pair, I'd advise going to a shop and trying a few



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,697 ✭✭✭Roberto_gas


    I have a very basic question…after cycling and keeping my bike stored for 2-3 days it stops back pedalling..if i move cassette manually or after some forward pedalling it starts to back pedal…

    Should I anticipate early signs of issues? Its a year old bike with 1500 km on itNo changes in gear etc happens when its lying idle..



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,360 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    There's very little servicing in those hub gears and the belt drives usually last far longer than a chain drive.

    Sounds like a touring bike set up and the idea there is low maintenance and long maintenance intervals. The only issue I'd see would be if the belt were to break but I doubt that's a common thing.

    Hydraulic brakes will require change of pads from time to time but this is simple after the first attempt lessons will be learned.

    Enjoy the new bike 👌



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  • Moderators, Politics Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 43,806 Mod ✭✭✭✭Seth Brundle


    Does the chain jump to a different cog on the cassette once you start forward pedalling it?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,198 ✭✭✭padyjoe


    Guys, is the 105 name plate held on by a M3x4 countersunk screw?

    Lost the left side one, plastic is still there, not much of info available on the size. Tightening them up is a pita, on the hydro levers, you have to squeeze them hard to get access to.

    Thanks!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,697 ✭✭✭Roberto_gas




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,428 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    Sounds like the freehub needs to be removed, cleaned and then regreased.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 90 ✭✭DrumcDub1


    Noob question this, rear derailleur shifting fine and front derailleur shifting fine from big to small. However, cannot get the front derailleur to shift back into the big ring.

    What would be a probable cause of this?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 1,598 ✭✭✭hesker


    Assuming it’s mechanical could be a few reasons depending on what’s going on.

    For example if you can get it onto the big ring but the chain is rubbing badly against the cage plate then it may just be that the cable has slipped and you need to readjust it.

    Also possible the cable is worn badly at the shifter and catching. New cable time.

    Maybe the spring at the FD is all gummed up with muck and you can’t get it to expand.

    So several possibilities but more diagnosis needed



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 256 ✭✭vintcerf


    I have a bike with dt swiss 3 pawl hub that spins the wheel when back pedalling. also when i pedal forward, the cranks spin. doing my head in, i've seen posts on the internet saying this is normal!? last time this happened on my zipp wheels the issue was due to the rubber seal not seated properly which makes me believe this is a real issue.

    any advice? should pull the hub apart and re-lube? also, where can i get the dt swiss grease in dublin or can i just use any low viscosity grease (NLGI 000 - 1)?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 256 ✭✭vintcerf


    haha also a mechanical moron myself - this is when the bike is on a stand, I personally back pedal to ensure the freehub is engaging properly i.e. only when pedalling forward and that there is no drag.

    This is exactly what's happening (not my videos) -

    forward pedalling drag - https://imgur.com/uN3sjAG

    back pedalling - https://imgur.com/Pagl5fs



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,697 ✭✭✭Roberto_gas


    we do clean our chains at times you know😃😃 without a bike stand



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,537 ✭✭✭Paddigol


    Any thoughts on repairing a small tear in a tyre? I know there are emergency/ on the road running repairs you can do, but wondering if there is any advice on longer term solutions? Worth the risk? It's a very neat slice just above the sidewall. Tyre (Vittoria Next) has very few kms so would be a shame to bin it.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,176 ✭✭✭Idleater


    Super glue has worked for me in the past


    ETA: it has also failed in the past on a different tyre. YMMV obviously applies.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 14,794 ✭✭✭✭ednwireland


    hope this covers the bearings I need to replace on the mtb.🤣

    QL80_FMwebp.jpg

    also anyone having trouble with shimano di2 just had a second go to charging not available orange flashingmode. trying to see if I can get a warranty replacement.

    My weather

    https://www.ecowitt.net/home/share?authorize=96CT1F



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,745 ✭✭✭✭Squidgy Black


    Super glue on the cut outside and then a tube patch glued on the inside



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,537 ✭✭✭Paddigol


    Thanks folks... that's my evening entertainment sorted so 😆



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,616 ✭✭✭Lord Nikon


    I have a Trek 1.1 roadbike, and it’s been in the shed for quite a while. While the front brakes work well, the rear brakes(Alloy dual-pivot), are seized. They go in towards the rim, but don’t retract out when brake lever is released. It is worth taking them off and giving them a good clean, or should I just replace them?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,745 ✭✭✭✭Squidgy Black


    Pop them off, remove the brake pads, and soak the spring in gt85 or wd40 etc, they might need replacing but it’s no harm trying first to see if you can get that spring back to life



  • Moderators, Politics Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 43,806 Mod ✭✭✭✭Seth Brundle


    Just got my bike back from my LBS (needed a new fork which took a few months to obtain). Anyhow, they changed the chain, cassette and rear derailleur (they felt they neded doingbut let's not go there!) and now I find that my chain is skipping and trying to come off under load e.g. when setting off. Is the chain ring gone? There wasn't a peep out of it before I left it in if that makes a difference but looking at it, it looks quite different to the small ring...

    image.png image.png




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,008 ✭✭✭Plastik


    Very worn.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 53,810 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    hmm, so the bike shop decided to replace your RD (without consulting you, by the way you phrased it?), your chain and cassette, and missed the wear on the chainring? that's attention to detail right there.



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  • Moderators, Politics Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 43,806 Mod ✭✭✭✭Seth Brundle


    Thanks both 👍



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