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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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Comments

  • Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional South East Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 28,597 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cabaal


    I have shimano hydralic discbrakes, no issue with the rotor and no damage to anything else, the affectiveness has degraded over the time and the back brakes aren't applying properly.

    Would I be correct in thinking I need to basically perform this maintenance?

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bK9m8sh5L3U



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 53,842 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    it's possible the pads are just a bit contaminated; do they squeal in the wet?



  • Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional South East Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 28,597 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cabaal



    No its def not that, the brake handle can be pulled fully and the brakes are only barely applying to the rotor.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 53,842 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    if you can see that the pads are engaging with the disc, and that there's still a lot of pull left in the brake lever, that would imply something in the hydraulic system, i suspect.



  • Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional South East Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 28,597 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cabaal



    I'll pick up a bleed kit and see how things pan out, I strongly suspect that may be the issue.



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  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 53,842 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    is this for the new bike? i'd be bringing that back to the shop (if they're local). you shouldn't ahave to bleed the brakes that quickly.

    i've a 20 year old bike where the brakes were working fine last time i used it (a few years ago, admittedly)



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 26,154 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    How long have you had the bike? Could it be the pads just need replacing?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,747 ✭✭✭✭Squidgy Black


    Before going the bleeding route I’d pop the pads out and make sure the pistons aren’t just stuck.

    Quick spray of brake cleaner and stick a tyre lever or pad separator in between and apply the brake to see if they move at all



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 3,782 ✭✭✭Pa ElGrande


    Have a problem where the chain is going slack when I stop pedaling. Rather than end up crashing, I investigated and found the rear hub is sticking badly. It's a Formula DC-22 rear hub. I found the problem, some ball bearing disintegrating, but also the ball bearing shield (shown) is well pitted and not even round on the internal circumference. I went to the LBS, they had no spares in the workshop and they generally replace these hub types rather than repair them. Another ideas where I can source said part? or know any bike shops stock repair kits for said hub?

    Alternatively if I have to consider replacing the hub, are there any suggestions on what to look for in a hub? ( 9 speed Shimano on a bike frame that will only take quick release skewers.)

    Untitled Image


    Net Zero means we are paying for the destruction of our economy and society in pursuit of an unachievable and pointless policy.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,172 ✭✭✭✭retalivity


    My left pedal came off when out this morning, came clean off the screw (bolt?) attaching it to the crank, rather than the whole pedal itself. Had the pedals for about 3 years with no issues, last had them off about 2 years ago. Any idea what could have caused it, other than regular use/wear and tear? The rubber washer thing inside was worn and the threading was worn as well, couldnt get it screwed back on so limped home with one pedal.

    I was lucky that i was seated on a small incline when it came off, so want going fast and the foot just slipped off. If i was standing or at speed id shudder to think what would have happened

    20230430_100329.jpg


    Post edited by retalivity on


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,530 ✭✭✭cletus


    Were you backpedalling a lot? As far as I know, those look keo pedals have a left hand thread to remove them from the spindle itself. The other option could be that they were overtightened, and the threads were stripped

    If you could take some closer photos of both the spindle (particularly the threads) and the internal thread of the pedal, the issue might be a bit clearer.


    Edited to add: Actually, if you look at the end of the spindle, the silver bit rotates in the bearing inside the pedal body. It looks a bit rusty and pitted. If that was seized, pedalling would have resulted in overtightening at the threads, which could have caused failure.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,380 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    This does feel like a stupid question - does anyone know what type of rotor fits this wheelset?

    It is a Fulcrum Racing 6 DB , there are no rivets on the inside, just on the outside as you see in the photo.

    I ordered a set of Shimano RT54s but they were internal lockring, so sent them back and bought external. The external ones use a different tool to fit (bb tool vs. cassette lockring tool), but they still seemed to be designed for rivets on the inside rather than outside of the hub. I've also tried a 6-bolt adapter and that doesn't fit either.

    Any ideas before I go mad? They are for a bike that I've had almost ready for a month, ordered from Germany each time so a bit of wait and these are the last things I need to get it on the road.


    image.png




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,172 ✭✭✭✭retalivity


    I wasn't knowingly backpedalling a lot, but maybe its as youve said, the silver bit is worn and seized up. Im out at the mo, will look again and take another photo when i get home



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 26,154 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Shimano Centerlock, slide it on and then a lockring like a trackbike will hold it in place



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,936 ✭✭✭statto25


    Anyone have any experience with a rattling Ultegra lever? Disc brake lever where the downshifter lever will go beyond the right of the brake/upshift lever if the road is rough. The position isn't as important as the damn rattle which causes the thing to move



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,648 ✭✭✭JMcL


    That looks knackered to me. This popped up on a search - it looks like it's got both the cup shown, and bearings, plus other bits. UK site thought so Brexit shenanigans probably https://www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/formula_dc22_rear_hub_axle_kit-6127



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,380 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    Thanks - I've just learned that Fulcrum use their own lock ring standard called AFS. Cheapest I can find them online is about 30€ delivered for a pack of 4

    Another one of those why the **** can't the bike industry just agree on one way of doing something simple like attaching a brake rotor



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,684 ✭✭✭at1withmyself


    Back pedaling would have no impact on the pedals. It's probably down to wear and tear, Amy chance they were making a creaking or crackling noise before failing?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,747 ✭✭✭✭Squidgy Black


    Campag centrelocks should work with the AFS as well I think



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,172 ✭✭✭✭retalivity


    There was a bit of cracking alright, not persistant but the odd time, thought it was the cleats. A few more photos, the p3dal doesnt seem to inseet fully onto the spindle anymore either, like its too short. Will take it into the shop tmoro, get a new one

    20230501_110607.jpg 20230501_110637.jpg




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  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 53,842 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    are they meant to be threads on the pedal axle, at the bottom in the first photo? or is it just scoring?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,530 ✭✭✭cletus


    No, in general it wouldn't, but I thought if the spindle was seized, then the pedal might be rotating on the threads, as such.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,172 ✭✭✭✭retalivity


    Think there's meant to be, very faint threads remain



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 53,842 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    yeah, looks like it stripped the threads. how that happened is the next question...



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,530 ✭✭✭cletus


    Here's a video on servicing those pedals. If you could remove the 17mm nut on the pedal, you might have a clearer picture of the reason for the failure.

    It's all academic, though, it doesn't look repairable



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 53,842 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    I'd only degrease a chain to clean it if it's dirty. If you were using it every weekend in dry weather, it might not be too dirty, and a light top up with lube might be enough. And don't use a lot of oil, excess oil would only attract dirt.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 965 ✭✭✭gn3dr


    That looks like your bearing broke up which allowed the centre of the bearing attached to the axle, fit fit out through the hole in the plastic nut, as well as pulling the nut out of the pdeal body threads.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,539 ✭✭✭TheChizler


    I have the same free-hub, when I was researching recently I found out that the Formula DC-22 is just a rebadged SRAM 406, that might open up more options.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,428 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    No. there should be two small cartridge bearings. it looks to me like the bearings have disintegrated!



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  • Posts: 551 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I know we live in the age of the Internet where there are plenty of bike maintenance guides and videos online, but I still have a weird love of technical manuals.

    With that in mind, would it be worth getting the following book on mountain bike maintenance? I already own an earlier addition of his book on road bike maintenance. I do wonder if there is enough of a difference between road bikes and mountain bikes to warrant the purchase of this specific book?




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