Tesla Model 3 - V3.0

Are yous talking about the putting the key cards in a faraday bag or has everyone got Tesla key fobs?

I know I should turn on pin to drive as the Bluetooth can be boosted and it’s been demonstrated on YouTube but I don’t really want to🤣

Arrived home yesterday evening after 12 days away. Car only lost 1% of battery, which seems very low considering temp was quite cold. Resisted temptation to check car too often when away, perhaps 3 times total.😊.

Used another 1% giving the car a quick heat to 18.5c when hopped on airport bus and switching on drivers seat heater and steering wheel heater. Driving to and from airport was 308 km total, both trips were during rush hours traffic so Naas to airport and return was often 50km/h or less. About 50 km each way at 110-120km/h and rest 80km/h speed limit. 23% left when home. Started with 100%.

Looks like my 4km/% is fairly accurate for mixed mainly easy driving at this time of year. Impressed considering the trip up was very wet, yet mild and light tail wind. Trip home was dry and cold but a head wind.

March 2022 Model 3 RWD LFP.

I still turn my Bluetooth off every evening. Having lost an Ioniq in 2019 to a relay attack I don't fancy losing a Tesla too

I only use the pin 2 drive if I am leaving my car all day or when going on hols. Home and work are well covered by cameras, I like the convenience of just getting in and driving.

Got 2022.40.41 update two days ago. Yesterday did 45 km back home at about 6pm rural roads, plenty of traffic. Auto dip/high beam worked perfectly, didn't blind anyone. Perhaps a little slow to revert back to high beam, but perhaps better that way on twisty roads with a car ahead.

Definitely noticed a drop in regen, had to use normal braking a few times where I normally would not have had to. Having gotten used to the strong regen previously, hope it reverts again on a later update..

I've tested it for a week. My feeling is that full beam is not a setting to be left on auto all the time, especially on urban driving. Does not react on meeting pedestrians and stays on in lit areas. Now it works nearly as good as my paddy speccd 2019 Kona.

I find it works great for most oncoming traffic now. struggles a bit with the high lights on trucks when the main lights are obscured by the central barrier. Can’t be 100% but I am fairly sure the only other car I have used with auto lights did ok with that. It’s Not fantastic for cars in the distance you are catching up with either leave them on longer than with im comfortable with

but now they are atleast usable and makes it easier to use autopilot when it’s busy and you have to turn that off and on as you overtook

have been reasonably happy with the car (RWD) since I got it in September but must say I feel that I have been missold a car that is claimed to have a range of 491kms and when it is fully charged it gives a predicted range of 360km and rarely achieves more than 300km. I haven't gone back through this very large thread but I do recall some discussion about a large buffer with the new LFP battery that is now installed since the summer of 2022. The previous battery seemed to have a better range? I'm surprised there is so little discussion about it here or around the web.

it's a bit of an issue for me as I do a regular run from Dublin to Waterford and thought I would have no problem doing the 320 km round trip without a charge but unfortunately, that isn't the case.

I know in some countries people were notified of the change of battery and given the opportunity to cancel their order if they were unhappy with the change of battery technology.

Don’t drive faster than 90km/h and you’ll easily do the return trip to Waterford on a single charge….

Respectfully suggest you read back through the thread on this and you will be more informed as to the issues, which were debated at length, so much so that a separate discussion forum was created to ring fence the topic from this more general forum . The WLTP testing cycle is a recognised universal standard that facilitates meaningful comparisons across all cars, the conditions of which are based on precise predefined laboratory conditions. The common fallacy is that people expect (and I can understand this) that this is the range they should get in the real world, whereas range is always dependent on multiple variables, many of which are within the control of the driver but also extend to others factors, wind, incline, temperature etc. Another interesting point is that the range that is displayed on your vehicle is not based on WLTP but another metric EPA.

True that the LFP battery has a slightly lower WLTP but it is recommended that the battery can and should be be charged to its max 100% as against the previous battery which has a lower % recommended ...as charging to 100% results in battery degradation ..... Customers who placed an order when TESLA were advertising the higher WLTP (different battery) were alerted to let them know of the variation with an option to proceed or cancel their order and get their nonrefundable deposit refunded.

I am attaching a link which I found to be informative and helpful on the topic. Tests have also been completed to test range until car comes to a complete stop (using all accessible battery energy) and the interesting thing is that once the screen registered 0% the car drove an additional 50km before coming to a stop, which indicates a very prudent approach to battery management by TESLA (thats a whole other debate). Yes that means that when the car screen says 0%, there is still energy in the battery that can be accessed!

Still learning this new language—could someone explain ˋ137 usage average‘ and acronyms breakdown ?

RWD. LFP WLTP ICE GOM EPA and sure there’s a few more