Tesla Model 3 - V3.0

I only use the pin 2 drive if I am leaving my car all day or when going on hols. Home and work are well covered by cameras, I like the convenience of just getting in and driving.

Sorry meant key for current cars

I've tested it for a week. My feeling is that full beam is not a setting to be left on auto all the time, especially on urban driving. Does not react on meeting pedestrians and stays on in lit areas. Now it works nearly as good as my paddy speccd 2019 Kona.

I find it works great for most oncoming traffic now. struggles a bit with the high lights on trucks when the main lights are obscured by the central barrier. Can’t be 100% but I am fairly sure the only other car I have used with auto lights did ok with that. It’s Not fantastic for cars in the distance you are catching up with either leave them on longer than with im comfortable with

but now they are atleast usable and makes it easier to use autopilot when it’s busy and you have to turn that off and on as you overtook

have been reasonably happy with the car (RWD) since I got it in September but must say I feel that I have been missold a car that is claimed to have a range of 491kms and when it is fully charged it gives a predicted range of 360km and rarely achieves more than 300km. I haven't gone back through this very large thread but I do recall some discussion about a large buffer with the new LFP battery that is now installed since the summer of 2022. The previous battery seemed to have a better range? I'm surprised there is so little discussion about it here or around the web.

it's a bit of an issue for me as I do a regular run from Dublin to Waterford and thought I would have no problem doing the 320 km round trip without a charge but unfortunately, that isn't the case.

I know in some countries people were notified of the change of battery and given the opportunity to cancel their order if they were unhappy with the change of battery technology.

Don’t drive faster than 90km/h and you’ll easily do the return trip to Waterford on a single charge….

Respectfully suggest you read back through the thread on this and you will be more informed as to the issues, which were debated at length, so much so that a separate discussion forum was created to ring fence the topic from this more general forum . The WLTP testing cycle is a recognised universal standard that facilitates meaningful comparisons across all cars, the conditions of which are based on precise predefined laboratory conditions. The common fallacy is that people expect (and I can understand this) that this is the range they should get in the real world, whereas range is always dependent on multiple variables, many of which are within the control of the driver but also extend to others factors, wind, incline, temperature etc. Another interesting point is that the range that is displayed on your vehicle is not based on WLTP but another metric EPA.

True that the LFP battery has a slightly lower WLTP but it is recommended that the battery can and should be be charged to its max 100% as against the previous battery which has a lower % recommended ...as charging to 100% results in battery degradation ..... Customers who placed an order when TESLA were advertising the higher WLTP (different battery) were alerted to let them know of the variation with an option to proceed or cancel their order and get their nonrefundable deposit refunded.

I am attaching a link which I found to be informative and helpful on the topic. Tests have also been completed to test range until car comes to a complete stop (using all accessible battery energy) and the interesting thing is that once the screen registered 0% the car drove an additional 50km before coming to a stop, which indicates a very prudent approach to battery management by TESLA (thats a whole other debate). Yes that means that when the car screen says 0%, there is still energy in the battery that can be accessed!

I too find the range is less than expected. I wasn't expecting WLTP range. Real expectation for me was 350 winter range mixed driving. I have a 70km round commute consisting of around 35km at 60kh/h, 5km at 80km/h and 20km at 100km/h and 10km at 120km/h. Most of this is done with autopilot, so I average below the speed limits when considering a good 15km is spent in slow moving traffic on the m50.

I would definitely be charging after 3 days with the average daily percentage consumption being 25-30%. I haven't paid much attention to this (loving the drive and the car) but I must be getting less than 300km if I were to count 100% to 0% displayed. Maybe....just maybe I would get the 350km in current temperatures if I drove to completely empty.

I do want to say though that I like that TESLA have included a chunky soft buffer. Yes, it will cause some inconvenience and will at times route the car to a charger prematurely, but it also makes sure you don't let the battery deplete too low, which could over the course of a night with a sharp drop in temperatures see the battery being damaged. If you do happen to run to 0% on a drive, you have plenty of range to get to a charger. For the majority of drivers who don't use public chargers from one end of the year to the other, this won't negatively effect them at all.

I have yet to use a Tesla Super Charger, so haven't been routed anywhere yet. I might use one this weekend just to make sure it works for me.

Still learning this new language—could someone explain ˋ137 usage average‘ and acronyms breakdown ?

RWD. LFP WLTP ICE GOM EPA and sure there’s a few more

Many thanks—still getting used to kWh v mpg😅 and thanks to other responses re acronyms . Need to keep reading this thread v helpful,!