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DIY PV install

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 41 welshchris77


    1. Yes we have the main board supplied from my parents cottage, the cable size is a 10mm2 armoured, It has been like that for the last 15 years without issue, the Annex was originally build as a garage, I see now though that this is not suitable and will have to be swapped out for a 16mm2 cable, it was recommended at the time but I have suspected for some time that it may be inadequate, just not looking forward to digging a trench and fixing this 😥. By neutralised do you mean earthed?, if so then yes, the cu at the cottage was upgraded to a bigger one and new earth and rod added, I also did the same on the CU on the Annex (earth rod).
    2. Thanks, I will ask for one of those 👍️
    3. ok, I didn't get a manual with the inverters but I will have a search online to see what info I can find about that
    4. Not sure to be honest, I will ask my dad about that as he planned it out, will post a pic pf the cottage cu also.
    5. definitely going with the 16mm2, I will get armoured as it has to go to the outside, clipped along the wall for a few meters then back through the wall and into the Annex Cu, I drilled the hole earlier for that.

    Thank you 👍️



  • Registered Users Posts: 1 bradaber


    Sounds like you're on the right track. I have an 11.15 ,kw array in Canada. The cable size is the same as a stove, 8-3. Breaker Size 50 amp. No issue with overpowering as extra goes to the grid.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 251 ✭✭P2C


    Can you point me in the direction of any suppliers up north if ya come across any. Thanks



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,284 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    When I say Neutralised I mean the PEN or protective earth neutral. It's an earth cable generally sized at 10 sq for older installations that runs from the main CU to the meter cabinet and is joined to the neutral cable at the ESB meter.

    ☀️



  • Registered Users Posts: 41 welshchris77


    Ah I see, no earth from the main CU to the cabinet joined to the neutral cable at the EBS meter👍️

    The ESB meter looks ancient to be honest, pretty sure its just L and N tails into main CU



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,284 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    You need a sparks so, that should be looked at asap.

    ☀️



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,293 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    I could tell from your questioning you had suspicions!

    Even my house in the 80's had 10mm2 T+E from the meter cupboard to the main consumer unit, even found the old earth rod. All upgraded now though, with an accessable earth rod this time. + Earthing of the hot press.

    Would recommend getting it looked at too ( I know €€ + hassle)



  • Registered Users Posts: 41 welshchris77


    Will do, thanks👍



  • Registered Users Posts: 41 welshchris77


    I found the manual for the inverters online, looks like 40a RCBO’s are needed yes?




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  • Registered Users Posts: 41 welshchris77


    Also moved the sub box a bit higher




  • Registered Users Posts: 41 welshchris77


    We have no meter cabinet by the way, the meter is directly above the cu




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,284 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    Consumer units are always undersized, would drive you nuts.

    ☀️



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,293 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    The guy that done the new ones in our sheds has had enough of small consumer units, plenty of space in the new ones to do things right!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,284 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    40 is max on that list, 32 Amp would be what I'd go with. 25 is right on the edge.

    ☀️



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,284 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    Cables feeding the meter and consumer unit are undersized too and need replacing. It can be done when you get the neutralising sorted. Unfortunately you will also need the Esb.

    First point of contact is a spark.

    ☀️



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  • Registered Users Posts: 41 welshchris77


    Will get that sorted 👍😁



  • Registered Users Posts: 41 welshchris77


    Picked a lot of the stuff I need today, x56 meters of 16mm2 t&e, conduit, clips, cat6 and few other bits and pieces, almost had to have a sit down when I got the bill, over €800🙄


    Anyhow I feed the 6m length of the 16mm2 cable into the outhouse and put the 30a type b rcbo’s in the sub box (not wired in yet).

    Was thinking of putting the type2 double pole surge protector in the sub box to save a bit of space on the cu in the Annex, wire the inverters to the rcbos, then link one Rcbo to the other, then that one to the double pole surge protector and the 16 cable and back to Annex Cu (after the double pole isolator).

    Wish I had a wiring diagram for all this!😂

    Not going to bother with a socket or a light in the outhouse now, for the amount of times it would be used it is not worth it

    Also waiting to hear back from a sparks to check the cu at cottage, hopefully by Friday or early next week, going to do the bits I can do in the mean time.

    Getting there bit by bit👍




  • Registered Users Posts: 41 welshchris77


    Wired up the sub box this morning




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 945 ✭✭✭SchrodingersCat


    Fair play welshchris77, great thread. We did a self-install here too, but that wasn't as large as yours. I would suggest, if you havent already, is to have an registered electrician lined up to that will sign the NC6 documentation for the ESB to notify them that a solar installation will be taking place. Maybe your friend who is the installer?

    I see that you have one of the old Analog electricity meters installed. The ESB will probably want to upgrade that to a smart meter. I know a few folks who got away with not getting the upgrade: the old analog meters run backwards when you produce excess electricity, basically giving them a very generous FIT rate.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,570 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    Not all of them. Some of them have a rachet on the disk to stop it spinning in reverse - but they have a little symbol on the front panel to signify that's the case. It looks like yours is "one of the good ones" :-)



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,482 ✭✭✭DC999


    If it's a 1967 model it will spin backwards. Not mine of course, just someone I know :)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,330 ✭✭✭Markus Antonius


    I see a lot of people buying in their own cells from China. Has anyone tried ordering in panels? They are so expensive now to the point that it's almost not worth a DIY. Unless one buys direct from China

    A Finnish guy made an interesting blog on another forum where he bought all his equipment from Alibaba (fully expecting many technical problems) and his whole setup worked perfectly.

    I don't think I could stomach getting an inverter from China, but the panels themselves, I don't see why not!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,458 ✭✭✭Gerry


    Most of the inverters installed in Ireland are made in China..



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,008 ✭✭✭con747


    I know a few here have https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058213471/solar-panels-diy-links/p1 and I think there is a couple more somewhere on here but with the search function the way it is I can't find them.

    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058266626/diy-pv-install#latest

    Don't expect anything from life, just be grateful to be alive.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,330 ✭✭✭Markus Antonius


    I would suspect this is the case but would hope and expect the certified installers and their suppliers conduct some form of quality control on these units though and are likely fully CE marked. Not sure if the same can be said of the ones from Alibaba or other Chinese outlets. I will be doing a ground mounted install in a field so don't care so much what catches fire out there.

    Nice one! Good to see some others have tried it. I think it's definitely worth the risk. Just thought I'd put the feelers out to see if any horror stories. Thanks!



  • Registered Users Posts: 41 welshchris77


    Long overdue update here, we paid a electrician from a local PV installation company to do our final connection and submit our NC6 to the ESB, this was done before the May cutoff for 6kw inverters (thankfully).

    we had a couple of great months for production after that and a very dry spell also, then we started getting nuisance tripping on the RCD’s, it mostly happened after heavy rain, when they inverters came online in the morning as the sun came up they would trip out, after a little research I found that Solis recommends 100a RCD’s, I also discovered that type ‘S’ (slow blow) are more suitable for PV, none of the local supplies had this type but noticed that screwfix have them, the only trouble is the stores in Ireland don't do them, only the UK branches, I got my uncle to post two over from Wales, fitted them and no nuisance tripping since.




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 238 ✭✭AmpMan


     "I found that Solis recommends 100a RCD’s,"

    Have you confused 100amp & 100mA ?

    Post edited by AmpMan on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,284 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    Hi Chris, what you were experiencing is called parasitic leakage capacitance. My concern with the image you posted is that your overcurrent protection is now 63amps. What size cable feeds your inverters? Granted it's a short run but still not kosher.

    ☀️



  • Registered Users Posts: 41 welshchris77


    Thanks, they are feed with 6mm2 flex cable



  • Registered Users Posts: 41 welshchris77


    Also the cable feeding the sub box from the CU was upgraded to 16mm2 SWA (5m long)



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,284 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    It's not great really having a 6 sq cable protected by a 63 amp mcb.

    Another problem is that a type s rcd is time delayed and doesn't protect life, add to that 100ma and you're seriously breaching regulations.

    Some light reading.


    ☀️



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,293 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Possibly only one RCD is needed then have the 2 inverters on 32 amp mcbs



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,284 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    You could do that but a fault in one then kills power to both. It would cover the overcurrent issue though.

    The problem with the type S rcd is that it just won’t trip in time.

    ☀️



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,293 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,843 ✭✭✭Buffman


    @welshchris77 The Solis has a built in residual current monitoring unit so you should double check if you actually need external RCD protection. If one is required they recommend it's type A. I've seen them installed with only a Type B MCB at the CU. (40A recommend by Solis for a 6K)

    From my reading of the code of practice there's not a requirement for another RCD if the inverter has the required protection built in.

    "4.6. AC Electrical System

    AC Electrical System shall meet the following requirements:

    • Type B RCD The AC system must be tested and certified by a Registered Electrical Contractor and a Safe Electric certificate must be provided.

    • The AC system must comply with I.S. 10101

    Where an RCD is used for protection of the PV a.c. supply circuit, The RCD shall be of type B according to I.S. EN62423 or I.S. EN60947-2, unless:

    - the inverter provides at least simple separation between the ac side and the dc side or

    - the installation provides at least simple separation between the inverter and the RCD by means of separate windings of a transformer; or

    - the inverter does not require a type B RCD as stated by the manufacturer of the inverter.

    • An AC isolator (2 pole, switching live and neutral) must be installed between the inverter and the consumer unit, and accessible from the inverter location

    Where an RCD device is installed on the AC circuit feeding an inverter, the RCD type must be selected according to IEC TS 62548:2013.

    • AC isolator must be labelled – “PV System MAIN AC Isolator” or an equivalent statement.

    • The main incoming point of the dwelling (typically the meter box) must contain a warning label indicating the presence of a separate source of electrical supply to the building"

    (Disclaimer, the regs have chopped and changed so much lately none of the above may still be the case so feel free to correct me if so. 👍️)

    FYI, if you move to a 'smart' meter electricity plan, you CAN'T move back to a non-smart plan.

    You don't have to take a 'smart' meter if you don't want one, opt-out is available.

    Buy drinks in 3L or bigger plastic bottles or glass bottles or cartons to avoid the DRS fee.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,284 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    I think you're misunderstanding the regulations above. They're referring to a type B rcd (not to be confused with B curve).

    I've read that twice and nowhere does it say what you have inferred. Can you highlight the section that lead you to your conclusion?

    ☀️



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,843 ✭✭✭Buffman


    I already did highlight it in bold. They say 'Where an RCD is used/installed' which would indicate it isn't mandatory.

    FYI, if you move to a 'smart' meter electricity plan, you CAN'T move back to a non-smart plan.

    You don't have to take a 'smart' meter if you don't want one, opt-out is available.

    Buy drinks in 3L or bigger plastic bottles or glass bottles or cartons to avoid the DRS fee.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,284 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    That's not my interpretation of that. It states a type B rcd must be installed. Then it goes on to list certain conditions where a type B isn't necessary. So type A is then suitable.

    It states AC system must comply with IS10101 which requires external rcd protection for inverters.

    Every inverter I've ever come across has some form of earth leakage protection built in. This shuts down the inverter only, it doesn't protect life in case of direct contact on the inverter itself which is why external rcd protection is required.

    ☀️



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,843 ✭✭✭Buffman


    Like I've said, I've seen them installed with only the correctly sized MCB. Regs may have changed since like I said but this is where you'd need to talk to a sparks/engineer who's familiar with exact inverter models and current regs.


    "MCB

    • Usually an MCB in the consumer unit

    • Feeds local grid via consumer unit and surplus exported

    • Generally no RCD required RCD may produce false tripping however where required consider 100ma"

    FYI, if you move to a 'smart' meter electricity plan, you CAN'T move back to a non-smart plan.

    You don't have to take a 'smart' meter if you don't want one, opt-out is available.

    Buy drinks in 3L or bigger plastic bottles or glass bottles or cartons to avoid the DRS fee.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,284 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    That piece of text from solarcity just isn't relevant here. The only text that matters is Is10101.

    Anyway I think we can both agree that consulting a professional is what should happen here and that taking advice from random strangers on the Internet isn't advisable.

    ☀️



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,506 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    This is actually a really critical document as it explains what we were asking ourselves about 3 months ago when @micks_address had some trips.

    I was of the understanding that a PV inverter's AC side would by fully isolated from the DC side and hence the DC loss to ground when it was raining was non-comparable to AC leakage. After all you would think that if DC current was lost off the positive terminal of a connection it was effectively untraceable as the DC supply was coming off the solar panels and then inverse of the DC loss would not be seen on the negative terminal, hence showing an imbalance as you would do with AC. But no, that's not true in an AC connected inverter.

    It seems that transformerless inverters oscillate the DC supply at around half the AC input voltage (section 2, page 4) and as a result there is AC current present which is capacitively coupled between the silicon panel element and the frame of the panels and the mount and then the roof. They all add-up to become "Cpe", the parasitic capacitance.

    During times of very heavy rain on the panels the Cpe increases significantly due to the surface-area of then panels and it causes a leakage trip on the circuit RCD.

    The workaround mentioned is to use a correctly sized compensation capacitor on a quad-pole RCD rather than a dual-pole RCD. IE, one of these:

    So yeah, @allinthehead, thanks for posting that!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,284 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    Glad you found it useful. It's not well understood, even by some installers.

    What happens then is that the symptoms are treated rather than the cause, ie 100ma rcd.

    ☀️



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