Solar for Dummies.

Yes, they are all different in physical dimensions. Best off measuring what's already there and pick one to physically match on midsummer, but you should also check that the electrical specs aren't significantly different to what you already have (you will need a model number to check that though!). Also decide whether you want a black or silvered finish (silvered is the one which shows the silver lines between the individual 7cm x 5cm cells). You can go with a larger wattage panel if the voltage specs roughly match, you just won't benefit from the difference.

Adding to what slave1 said. Do you have a smart meter now? If so, ignore the battery and get paid for the FIT export. ~20c a unit. Then charge the car on a cheap EV night rate.

Do you have a Zappi now? If so, change that to charge on Eco++ so it only charges during the day when there is a spare 1.4kW or more available. Zappi constantly checks if there is spare excess and throttles up or down immediately. Then also have a nightly schedule to charge during the cheap EV night rate.

I don’t have a battery. Sure, if the money tree was around I’d have one. But it’s ok without it.  

Bear in mind once you move to a smart tariff on a smart meter, you can never move to a 24hr one. The peak rate on those is rough, so you’d want to reduce the usage during that time.

A question due to curiosity

If someone has solar pv with batteries and thought about a wind turbine to supplement winter power can the solar inverter be used? If not can the turbine be used to charge the batteries?

Have a read from post #133 here https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058269147/micro-wind-turbines/p5

Hmm - could this be it?

99cm x 196cm - is a slightly unusual size as most of the panels are ~110cm x ~170cm. Any chance you can check those dimensions?

If it's model "JAM72D00-370/PR" then the voltages at STC (standard test conditions) are:

• Open Circuit Voltage(Voc) - 48.43V
• Maximum Power Voltage(Vmp) - 39.7V

Any of the 350W to 380W panels which I have checked on midsummer are all around the 38v range for Voc and 34v for Vmp. I'm not sure how well you can mix those with higher voltage panels. Maybe it doesn't matter and it won't limit the full array... maybe somebody here knows better.

Would they be listed on your NC6? When I done mine there was a section for them I think

Some inverters, like the Deye / Sunsynk, are setup to work with either sun and / or wind input.

Forget about wind though unless you have a one off house on top of a hill with very clean wind coming from the prevailing wind direction.

They'd have an invoice from their supplier anyway. It's just a matter of making them want to find it. Tell em that you have a friend looking at a solar install and that their level of follow-up here could swing the decision... 😏

Oh dear - let's hope it was 370.

I'd normally shout "Cowboys Ted", but that wouldn't be appropriate in a forum for DIYers. 🤣

Nope, possibly some inverters store the kWp of the system but is usually purely a visual thing, unless it produces reports where it uses that value in calculations - then yes would make sense to update it

I think I have most of the jigsaw put together in my head now in relation to the (nearly) DIY solar install I'm planning to do (getting a roofer to do the mounting, and a reci to sign off the electrical work when I'm completed).

I think I've only one question remaining I'm confused about - somebody might set me right. It relates somewhat to a previous question I had on Huawei inverters and their control via modbus (thanks again Johnathan). This relates more to the operation and placement of the DSU666H as specified with Huawei inverters.

I understand CT measurements and power monitoring (I have a self-built ESP32-based system feeding HA, plus have a Shelly 3phase meter also). Currently I measure the main inbound tails, and the feed to my garage. I will be installing the inverter in the garage (10sq feed to house from there so no capacity issues).

My question relates to "why" I need to use the DSU666 and associated clamp meter. Given that my proposed inverter (5Kw huawei) will be configured with irish settings, plus is limited to 25A (approx 6kw) output, with the exception of wanting to know the actual solar production levels, do I need to feed the DSU666 from the MAIN inbound tails - I want to install this on the garage tails where the inverter will be feeding the house. My reasoning here, and this is what I'd be interested in any comments on, is that I will have no battery, the inverter will be naturally limited by its max output, and therefore self-use will firstly absorb production, with any remaining current flowing outbound to the grid. So why would I need to measure the main tails coming into the house in this scenario?

Reasoning here initially was that I'd need to install the CT clamps and DSU666 in the main house consumer unit, but the inverter is in the garage. I have no spare CAT5 between these locations - there are 3 but used for both ethernet and other purposes, so cannot pull one for the CT clamp. However, I can use a modbus to ethernet transceiver and carry the signalling from the DSU666 to the inverter over ethernet, so it's not insurmountable.

Basically, I just need to try understand why I would need to. Hope this makes sense, and thanks again for filling in all the blanks that I already got advise on.

Doesn't sound right. Inverters have a really good IP rating, shouldn't be a problem in any weather even if mounted outdoors.

I'd reckon Givenergy are right. Any RCD trips which I have had on general electrical circuits have been after rain showers where water has penetrated cables or covers. They often follow that signature of disappearing for a duration and then coming back again. I presume your inverter is indoors though, is it not?

Yep inverter indoors and no moisture there...system has run since November no issues.. running fine all evening..I may have to wait a while for more rain to test.. inverter was still running from battery after rcd tripped