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DIY PV install

24

Comments

  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,752 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Possibly could be over thinking this.

    You only need 1 inverter to throttle.

    Set the export limit to say 6kw.

    One inverter works away absolutely oblivious, the second controls down (all the way to 0 if necessary) to try and stay under the 6kw limit.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,644 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    Whhhaaaaa? There's a special CT required? I've just installed a bog standard one, not worried about export at the minute given time of year



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,752 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Is it working? What CT did you install (as theres not really a "standard" CT) they all have different variations. Some have burden resistors, some dont etc.



  • Registered Users Posts: 41 welshchris77


    Yeah I hear you, just going on what my Dad told me to be honest, neither of us are super knowledgeable about this though,some trial and error at this point, I will pass on your information to him, if it does turn out we don’t need the power manager then all the better as it will save us a chunk of money, thank you👍

    Post edited by welshchris77 on


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,644 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    Just laid it, I’ve to hook up second inverter to separate 6sq to consumer unit (existing shared cable was getting hot) so was going to do all at the same time, never even looked at the input Solis side being honest, never dawned on me



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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,752 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Found one for 25.

    Looks like it uses a rj45

    A bit more poking it looks like it needs a 5a and the ratio is 3000:1



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,644 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    Just looked at the CT input on my Solis, a proprietary connection🙄



  • Registered Users Posts: 41 welshchris77


    My next step is getting the 10mm2 cable, hopefully tmw, need just over 5m, will get 6m to be on the safe side.

    Our plan is to wire the ac line outs from the inverters into a breakout box (small consumer unit, seen in my pics), each to a 32a mcb, then connect them both to the 10mm2 cable and out to the consumer units 63a RCCA (main fuse) input, we had discussed adding another RCCA to the breakout box and adding a mcb for one socket and another for one light (for the outhouse), still undecided about what way we will do this though🤔, what way have others done this?



  • Registered Users Posts: 41 welshchris77


    Maybe it can be adapted in some way to fit the socket on your Solis🤔



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,779 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    You should have double pole overcurrent and rcd protection (rcbo) for that 10sq at the main consumer unit.

    The pv should have a separate supply so technically you shouldn't be running other citcuits from that feed.

    ☀️ 10.75kwp.

    ⚡️5kw SunSynk, 5.95kwp SE, 3.2kwp SE, .8kwp NW, .8kwp SW. 15kwh SunSynk BYD Battery.⚡️



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  • Registered Users Posts: 297 ✭✭spose


    I have 32amp rcbo in house CU and each inverter in the shed off a 25amp rcbo. I think you only need the ct and export limitation on one inverter if you want to save another few euro. It just means it limit that one inverter harsher than both reducing equally. I only have 1 inverter with export limiting function so that’s the way mine will run



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,752 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Well I suppose if the 10 mm2 went out into its own consumer unit in the shed and then the solar, lights and sockets are wired from that.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,644 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1




  • Registered Users Posts: 41 welshchris77


    Ok thanks for the advise, I wasn’t sure, this is my current set up on my consumer unit at the moment




  • Registered Users Posts: 1,779 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    If it's only a 5 meter run then 16 sq should be considered and the sub board moved to the correct height. It looks a little low in the picture. I would still install double pole overcurrent protection on the cable feeding the sub board and surge protection should also be installed at the main board. The new board should also have a double pole isolator and as stated above the inverters should have rcd protection.

    ☀️ 10.75kwp.

    ⚡️5kw SunSynk, 5.95kwp SE, 3.2kwp SE, .8kwp NW, .8kwp SW. 15kwh SunSynk BYD Battery.⚡️



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,752 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    I'd agree with the 16mm2, do it once do it right.

    And putting the consumer units in the right height too!

    There's (legacy) ones in our yards and accessibility to them is horrible.

    Anything new/upgraded is at the right height. And big, with plenty of space to work in.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,779 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    Odd that your main board has a 63 rccb. Can you upload a picture of the inside of your meter cabinet? You may not have overcurrent protection on your main board. You might want to check the size of the cable feeding the immersion too, it's protected by a 32 amp mcb.

    ☀️ 10.75kwp.

    ⚡️5kw SunSynk, 5.95kwp SE, 3.2kwp SE, .8kwp NW, .8kwp SW. 15kwh SunSynk BYD Battery.⚡️



  • Registered Users Posts: 41 welshchris77




    Thank you, so basically in regards to what materials I need:-

    1. A Double pole over-current protection - 63A RCBO - for the cable feeding the sub box
    2. A surge protection breaker installed at main board (none installed inside the box by the way), any recommendations on what type?
    3. Two rcd's - 32A would suffice I take it?, type B?
    4. Replace the RCCB with a 63A RCBO (when we got it we asked for a RCBO at wholesalers and were given this (possibly by mistake), we assumed they did the same thing at the time but I looked it up and they are obviously not, RCCB only detects Earth leakage as I understand it🙄)
    5. 6m of 16mm2 cable

    The immersion (3kw I think, small tank) is running off a 2.5mm2 cable, If I recall we put a 32A instead of a 16a mcb temporarily as we didn't have a 16a on hand at the time, completely forgot about this, will swap that out, thanks for reminding me 👍️

    On a side note:- our consumer unit (at our annex) is feed from the consumer unit at my parents cottage, with that in mind when I get the CT clamp it will have to travel some distance (not measured yet, perhaps 50m) to the meter tails at the Cottage, I will have to extend the cable and bury it, part of the way at least, there is some existing conduit along the path



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,644 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    For CT extension, there is bury-able CAT6 out there, not that expensive, I picked mine up from AMZ warehouse and just laid it under concrete pour, all good since! CT can be extended 100m so you are grand with the 50m



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,779 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    1. You have this board supplied from the main board in your parents cottage? What size is the cable feeding it and does it have overcurrent protection? It's not a good idea having an rcbo as the main overcurrent protection as a fault in any of the other circuits will bring down the whole board. Is the installation neutralised? If you upload an image of the inside of the meter cabinet I can tell from that.
    2. Type 2 double pole surge protection. Garo do a nice little kit for that.
    3. 25 amp B type rcbo for each inverter should be good but you should refer to inverter manual for sizing and type.
    4. If the cable supplying the board in the annex has overcurrent protection then an 80 amp isolator in the annex board is fine but you then need to consider rcd protection for the socket circuits and the immersion.
    5. That's what I would go with. Your annex board is 50 meters from the main board right? That's a long run to the annex board, hopefully 16sq was used there.

    ☀️ 10.75kwp.

    ⚡️5kw SunSynk, 5.95kwp SE, 3.2kwp SE, .8kwp NW, .8kwp SW. 15kwh SunSynk BYD Battery.⚡️



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  • Registered Users Posts: 41 welshchris77


    1. Yes we have the main board supplied from my parents cottage, the cable size is a 10mm2 armoured, It has been like that for the last 15 years without issue, the Annex was originally build as a garage, I see now though that this is not suitable and will have to be swapped out for a 16mm2 cable, it was recommended at the time but I have suspected for some time that it may be inadequate, just not looking forward to digging a trench and fixing this 😥. By neutralised do you mean earthed?, if so then yes, the cu at the cottage was upgraded to a bigger one and new earth and rod added, I also did the same on the CU on the Annex (earth rod).
    2. Thanks, I will ask for one of those 👍️
    3. ok, I didn't get a manual with the inverters but I will have a search online to see what info I can find about that
    4. Not sure to be honest, I will ask my dad about that as he planned it out, will post a pic pf the cottage cu also.
    5. definitely going with the 16mm2, I will get armoured as it has to go to the outside, clipped along the wall for a few meters then back through the wall and into the Annex Cu, I drilled the hole earlier for that.

    Thank you 👍️



  • Registered Users Posts: 1 bradaber


    Sounds like you're on the right track. I have an 11.15 ,kw array in Canada. The cable size is the same as a stove, 8-3. Breaker Size 50 amp. No issue with overpowering as extra goes to the grid.



  • Registered Users Posts: 251 ✭✭P2C


    Can you point me in the direction of any suppliers up north if ya come across any. Thanks



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,779 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    When I say Neutralised I mean the PEN or protective earth neutral. It's an earth cable generally sized at 10 sq for older installations that runs from the main CU to the meter cabinet and is joined to the neutral cable at the ESB meter.

    ☀️ 10.75kwp.

    ⚡️5kw SunSynk, 5.95kwp SE, 3.2kwp SE, .8kwp NW, .8kwp SW. 15kwh SunSynk BYD Battery.⚡️



  • Registered Users Posts: 41 welshchris77


    Ah I see, no earth from the main CU to the cabinet joined to the neutral cable at the EBS meter👍️

    The ESB meter looks ancient to be honest, pretty sure its just L and N tails into main CU



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,779 ✭✭✭allinthehead


    You need a sparks so, that should be looked at asap.

    ☀️ 10.75kwp.

    ⚡️5kw SunSynk, 5.95kwp SE, 3.2kwp SE, .8kwp NW, .8kwp SW. 15kwh SunSynk BYD Battery.⚡️



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,752 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    I could tell from your questioning you had suspicions!

    Even my house in the 80's had 10mm2 T+E from the meter cupboard to the main consumer unit, even found the old earth rod. All upgraded now though, with an accessable earth rod this time. + Earthing of the hot press.

    Would recommend getting it looked at too ( I know €€ + hassle)



  • Registered Users Posts: 41 welshchris77


    Will do, thanks👍



  • Registered Users Posts: 41 welshchris77


    I found the manual for the inverters online, looks like 40a RCBO’s are needed yes?




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  • Registered Users Posts: 41 welshchris77


    Also moved the sub box a bit higher




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