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The "Today I did something to my bike" thread

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,586 ✭✭✭newmember2


    You've tried it with just replacing the output shaft? Also, the other gearbox you got, you're completely sure it's identical?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 474 ✭✭flashinthepan


    Yep the numbers were the same

    Also had them side by side on the table and they looked the same

    All the teeth and Dogs on the gears looked fine but would not rotate past 3rd gear even on the bench yhe only mark I could see on it was that there was a small ding / mark on the ahift drum so maybe it gor dropped or something

    If was really really bored I could prob remove the gears from the output shaft and replace them with the ones from my existing gearbox and try it again but summer is coming and i would prefer to be out on it rather than tinkering as the bike is outside and every time I go to do something it starts to Rain



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,958 ✭✭✭goblin59


    A common one on the BMW F series twins is the grab claw itself being slightly bent after a crash and this can cause issues with selecting gears.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,045 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    Fitted new chain and sprockets

    IMG20220610161706.jpg IMG20220610161857.jpg




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 34,314 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    New clutch kit in the DL, make sure you do this with your torque wrench in spec. I learned this after cracking two bolts off in the clutch basket. Wrench now checked rechecked and checked several hundred more times.


    20220604_120217.jpg




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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,253 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    I was in my mates garage a few weeks ago having a cuppa and the Snap On man arrived, I nearly bought a torque wrench off him, then remembered I didn't win the lotto. My Parkside one will have to do!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 34,314 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    They all need adjustment at some point regardless of their price 😎



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,253 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    But the snap on is so sexy... I've a few snap on bits and honestly, I'd save them from a fire before the missus



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 34,314 ✭✭✭✭listermint




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 474 ✭✭flashinthepan


    How do you check it though do you need any special equipment

    I have 2 Torque wrenches that I have had for a while and never been checked

    Cheers



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 474 ✭✭flashinthepan



    Could not really go too far with the output shaft in this state

    I was afraid I would put it in gear and whats left of the metal would just strip off and I would be left on the side of the road

    So I got another gearbox and happy to say it went in without issue

    all reassembled and back in action



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 34,314 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Plenty of YouTube videos.. torque wrench can be brought back into spec with luggage scales or solid fixed weights and a bench vice to hold your wrench



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 474 ✭✭flashinthepan


    Cheers never thought it could be checked without some special tools :-)

    Ta



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,586 ✭✭✭newmember2


    I just check mine by comparing the reading on one to another...but on another note...

    Today I decided to change the front wheel bearings. I did this once before many many moons ago and all I remembered from it was that after pouring boiling water on the hub the bearing race just flopped out. No such look today on this bike. The bearing spacer was up tight against each side so I decided I'd use my yet unused €bay special blind bearing puller set! Bolted it in and was hoping the lips of the split collet would force their way in between the spacer and the bearing. Tightened it up...few bangs of the slide-hammer and the puller just slid out with no bearing. Had a few more goes and the last attempt, tightened up the collets to fk to the point that two of them just snapped off. Absolute waste of money buying cheap...(I should've known!!!). Eventually went at it again and was able to get enough bite of a punch to knock the first one out and then the second is just a formality. Had a 36mm impact socket to drive in the new bearings and got the speedo side in handy enough but my socket was too big to get the other side fully home - looks like I needed a 35mm socket which I didn't have so I had the bright idea of using the old bearing on top and after giving it a few whacks I had the new bearing fully seated and the old bearing more than half-way into the hub!...oh the joys!!...lol. Have to now source a n anchor bolt to try and see if I can hammer the old bearing back out...ugh



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,045 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    I put the new bearings in a ziplock bag and put them in the freezer the night before fitting. They go in easy enough then.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,586 ✭✭✭newmember2


    Yeh...I hear ya...I did think of that at one point but the fridge in the house I'm in has no freezer...



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 474 ✭✭flashinthepan


    I cut a slice in the old bearing with the angle grinder so that it would compress a little when using it to hammer the new bearing in to place

    Made it easy to remove afterwards


    But yep I agree about buying cheap

    But sometimes your only going to use these things once or twice so no need to buy the best of the best

    I recently changed the wheel bearings & steering head bearings on the V

    There were 3 on the rear wheel and 2 on the front

    Dont know how I did not break the puller as one of the rear ones had a circlip holding it in place and with all the crud and gunge I did not see it and was trying to pull it against the circlip :-(

    All of the bearings were the original with 80,000KM and needed to be done



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,586 ✭✭✭newmember2


    Ah yes, I remember cutting a bearing like that sometime before, I think maybe it was when I was fitting steering bearings, God only knows when that was. Never even entered my mind this time before reaching for the old race.

    Which puller set have you got? I see good ones priced at a few hundred which would be a bit much for like you said - the amount of times you'd be using it, so I might just see if I can source some good quality split collets on their own and see if I can get them working with the slide-hammer I've got.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 474 ✭✭flashinthepan




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,253 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    I picked up a stock exhaust for the 954. Its a bit scratched but I'll dona job on it


    It had a stubby dominator, the bike ran very lumpy with it, obviously it messed up fuelling. Much smoother now and I'm not deafening my neighbours.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,958 ✭✭✭goblin59


    I had to completely re jet my DR650 and modify my airbox when I put a high flow exhaust on the bike. Runs much smoother now and a lot more power.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,253 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    Exactly, more air needs more fuel. ECU parameters are quite narrow and while they can cope with some changes a massive change to airflow needs to be tuned.


    I am going to tune the power commander, my bike has the exhaust and intake flaps deleted so needs a bit of fuel down low.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,958 ✭✭✭goblin59


    I'm going to try new needle positions tomorrow myself on the airhead, have it idling about right, but waiting to borrow a twin max carb tuner off my friend. Can't seem to find any for same in Europe or UK



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,449 ✭✭✭nigeldaniel


    maahh.... more electric gremlins on the Dragstar. This time the key needs to be wiggled about a bit before the power comes on. Something to do for the weekend I suppose.

    Dan.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 474 ✭✭flashinthepan


    I get that on the V the odd time

    Usually a squirt of contact cleaner down the barrell sorts it out and then a little squirt of graphite afterwards



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 567 ✭✭✭garlad


    Get a spray can of WD-40 DRY PTFE Lube. Had the same issue with my key but this sorted it out.

    I think its recommended because it's 'dry', so doesn't attract stuff that could make it worse



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 39,891 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    Have an annoying slow puncture (at least the TPMS is good for keeping an eye on it). Slathered the back wheel in soapy water, found nothing.

    Anybody tried tyre sealants - Slime etc.? any use? any problems with them?

    I'm partial to your abracadabra
    I'm raptured by the joy of it all



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,475 ✭✭✭✭Esel
    Not Your Ornery Onager


    Won't work on a leak at the rim or in the sidewall.

    Not your ornery onager



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,536 ✭✭✭✭Varik


    There's expanding foam ones too, but they're usually high pressure cans meant to inflate the tyre too in emergency so not sure how well they last. Pretty sure you also need to know which section of tyre is leaking and have that as the low point.

    Personally would use bead sealer on rims first and see how that works.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 39,891 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    Bead sealer? Not heard that term before - got any brand names I should look up?

    I'm partial to your abracadabra
    I'm raptured by the joy of it all



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