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The "Today I did something to my bike" thread

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  • Registered Users Posts: 444 ✭✭Zebbedee


    I ran heated grips and spotlights at the same time on an XT600.

    After a year I had to replace the regulator/rectifier. Maybe it was going to fail anyway as its a 2003 bike, who knows. Its still running a year later but I don't run the grips on full power anymore.

    You should figure out the current draw in amps with the 3 of those accessories all on at the same time. Not too hard to figure out. P =VI.

    P (power measured in watts) = V (voltage) multiplied by I (current measured in amps.)

    And maybe have a spare reg/rec on hand just in case.



  • Registered Users Posts: 33,763 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    I would see it definitely pulling the battery down and maybe breaking the rectifier as above. majority of Bikes even today still aren't setup with decent alternators and rectifiers to handle current like this. There's things that can be done to assist and lesson the potential for issue but tbh I'm not skilled enough in the electrics department to fully advise. I have already replaced my stator and upgraded the rectifier to a mosfet one because I broke mine running grips a tracker and a phone charger. It's running well now for a few years but the battery does run down if I use a heated jacket and grips on medium. Recently upgraded the battery but I think the wiring from battery to stator is key to next step benefits.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,240 ✭✭✭goblin59


    The big things with rectifiers is making sure they're the correct voltage for your battery. I was looking into this for my bike.

    the charging kit i got came with two options, the lithium version (Not available from Motobins at the time ) and the standard version. The only difference was one came with a Ducati Energia Rectifier and the Lithium came with a Mosfet type Rectifier.

    Main reason was the Mosfet type gave out a lower voltage so not to overload the lithium battery when charging and causing either the battery protection circuit to kick in and shut down the charging, or if there isnt a protection circuit, just cause the battery to overload and catch fire.



  • Registered Users Posts: 34,208 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    Forget about spotlights if they aren't LED.

    I had halogen spots on the Triumph but was afraid to use them, they flattened the battery on me more than once. But the charging system on that bike was always a bit marginal, an aftermarket MOSFET R/R was a definite improvement.

    Heated grips draw a fair bit on high but usually you turn them down to medium or low soon enough.

    If you do urban rides in winter, fairly stop/start with low rpm that's when the real test of any battery or charging system is.

    Fingal County Council are certainly not competent to be making decisions about the most important piece of infrastructure on the island. They need to stick to badly designed cycle lanes and deciding on whether Mrs Murphy can have her kitchen extension.



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,199 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    What triumph was it?

    Some bikes have a safety mechanism in them.

    I think a triumph I had was set at 10.5v.

    If it drops below that when you press the starter it won't start.

    Bike just clicks and kinda resets itself.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 34,208 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    Sprint ST 955i

    I doubt any FI bike is going to start at 10.5V even if you were pushing it down a hill.

    It would always crank but sometimes only barely enough to start and on a few occasions over my ownership (13 years) not enough to start. New battery would help for about 18 months. The connections to the alternator were too small for the current they were supposed to be passing. The replacement R/R came with larger connectors. Connecting from the replacement R/R directly to the battery helped, too. It never let me down after that but I was still wary of it. It had an alarm too which didn't help.

    Fingal County Council are certainly not competent to be making decisions about the most important piece of infrastructure on the island. They need to stick to badly designed cycle lanes and deciding on whether Mrs Murphy can have her kitchen extension.



  • Posts: 14,344 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Cheers for the replies folks.


    Was hoping to get the extra bits installed today (not DIY'ing them, getting a local auto-electrician to do it) but he wasn't able today, so it'll be next week.


    For what its worth, the spots are LED (and I only know that cos yer man selling the bike put them on for me, i haven't actually used them myself, nor do i really intend to, to be honest) and the heated grips so far haven't really been used much either. I'm new to bikes, but I predict I'll be a bit of a 'fairweather rider'. The warmth and comfort of a car on a cold or wet day is likely to be something I'll be too tempted by during poor weather (especially as I drive a lot).


    I'll mention rectifiers, regulators, etc. to yer man doing the fitting of the cameras/nav on the day and hopefully he'll have a good idea.


    Again, i appreciate the replies. Always makes for interesting reading.



  • Registered Users Posts: 34,208 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    Ideally most accessories would be connected to a circuit that goes on and off with the ignition so there's no danger of flattening the battery by leaving them switched on. This would probably need a relay, usually the position light or tail light circuit is tapped into to switch the relay (assuming you have automatic lights on which most bikes do). Tapping into a circuit without a relay there is a risk of overloading an existing circuit or the ignition switch itself.

    Easier to connect straight to the battery though which is what he'll probably do by default unless you ask him not to. My Oxford heated grips have a circuit which turns themselves off if the engine isn't running, it detects the voltage drop, so it's ok to connect them straight to the battery. Not all heated grips would have this feature though.

    More than 2 things to connect to the battery and you'll run out of space on the screws which go into the battery terminals. What he should do is install a little fusebox under the seat with 4 or 5 or whatever fused circuits and then connect that straight to the battery, so just one connector needed. Then the grips or whatever else can go into the fused circuits, if a relay is used to make sure they go off with the ignition the switched side will draw its power from here.

    You might want a phone charger or USB socket to stay powered up with the ignition off, handy for charging your phone if you are on a camping trip or whatever and it doesn't use much power.

    Hope this is clear enough, a lot of people find electrics very confusing 😁

    Fingal County Council are certainly not competent to be making decisions about the most important piece of infrastructure on the island. They need to stick to badly designed cycle lanes and deciding on whether Mrs Murphy can have her kitchen extension.



  • Posts: 14,344 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I find electrics quite confusing myself, but you brought up something specific I was gonna ask about, re: the phone charger giving power when the bike is off.


    I put my phone into the charger today before I started the bike, and it started charging. Was fully sure the bike would be dead, as this is obviously drawing power constantly (or so I presume). The bike has sat for 4-5 days at a time, and the charger is constantly drawing some level of power. I'm genuinely surprised it hasn't caused any issue.


    Regarding the other bits, I think the auto-electrician mentioned something along the lines of wiring the nav and cameras to the brake light switch or something along those lines, so they die when the power is turned off (which seems fair enough). I may well have misheard him, though.



  • Registered Users Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    If the phone started charging before you switched on the bike with the key then it is Connected directly to the battery

    & although there would be some kind of resistor / converter to step the power down to 5v while there is nothing connected then parasitic draw would be low

    I also have a Usb Charger / Voltage meter connected directly to the battery and never had any issues with it

    But I bought one that had a power switch on it so that i could switch it off

    I also have the Oxford heated grips directly to the battery with the auto shutoff & as Hotblack suggested one issue it the limited amount of space to physically connect the wiring to the battery terminals

    As far as your sparky suggesting connecting the Nav and Camera to the Brake light power I would imagine he is talking about using the brake circuit as a trigger for a Relay to energise power to these devices



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  • Registered Users Posts: 12,761 ✭✭✭✭galwaytt


    This how I do mine: 1 connection to battery for positive AND 1 for negative to a new earth post. Then feed a mini fuse board off that. Too many cables on the battery itself is just hassle and looking for a breakdown to happen.



    Post edited by galwaytt on

    Ode To The Motorist

    “And my existence, while grotesque and incomprehensible to you, generates funds to the exchequer. You don't want to acknowledge that as truth because, deep down in places you don't talk about at the Green Party, you want me on that road, you need me on that road. We use words like freedom, enjoyment, sport and community. We use these words as the backbone of a life spent instilling those values in our families and loved ones. You use them as a punch line. I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and sleeps under the tax revenue and the very freedom to spend it that I provide, and then questions the manner in which I provide it. I would rather you just said "thank you" and went on your way. Otherwise I suggest you pick up a bus pass and get the ********* ********* off the road” 



  • Registered Users Posts: 34,208 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    I presume your man meant tail light not brake light! Having your accessories work only when you're braking isn't really that useful 😁

    A USB socket / phone charger should draw close to nothing when there isn't anything plugged into it.

    Fingal County Council are certainly not competent to be making decisions about the most important piece of infrastructure on the island. They need to stick to badly designed cycle lanes and deciding on whether Mrs Murphy can have her kitchen extension.



  • Registered Users Posts: 452 ✭✭robbie_63


    I have the oxford heated grips on mine that are wired direct to the battery, One thing I noticed is that they will stay on after I turn off the bike.

    They have a sensor which is supposed to turn them off if the voltage in the battery gets low, the 2 times I forgot to turn them off I came back out to find the battery in the bike dead.

    Honda have an accessory port underneath the fairing which is supposed to be switched on only with the ignition, I'll swap over to that at some stage.


    Done my first oil change over the weekend, ashamed to say how long it took but was a lot easier once I figured out which way to screw off the old filter!



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,761 ✭✭✭✭galwaytt



    Most people that I know that use the brake light + only as a sensing circuit (to indicate IGN ON), and use it to switch a relay on/off.

    The relay itself being fed directly by the battery to the load, not unlike this diagram, but with the brake light + on pole 86 as in this diagram.

    You're right, you wouldn't want anything 'key' to be going via the brake light circuit itself !



    Ode To The Motorist

    “And my existence, while grotesque and incomprehensible to you, generates funds to the exchequer. You don't want to acknowledge that as truth because, deep down in places you don't talk about at the Green Party, you want me on that road, you need me on that road. We use words like freedom, enjoyment, sport and community. We use these words as the backbone of a life spent instilling those values in our families and loved ones. You use them as a punch line. I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and sleeps under the tax revenue and the very freedom to spend it that I provide, and then questions the manner in which I provide it. I would rather you just said "thank you" and went on your way. Otherwise I suggest you pick up a bus pass and get the ********* ********* off the road” 



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,366 ✭✭✭nigeldaniel


    I don't use heated grips myself but the wiring on my dragster is hairy as hell!. One of the 7 previous owners did a lot of DIY and not very good DIY either. The rectifier is a mess, as are the fuses near the battery. I will need to do some work there soon but I am half thinking to leave that job to the pros.

    Dan.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,240 ✭✭✭goblin59


    I think most of those cruisers just end up going that way, a friend of mine's brother had a Vulcan 800 with super shoddy wiring, from both the previous owner trying to add random **** and then repairing wires that snapped

    I think just age and irish weather hits those wires hard so they just get patched up, cut and resoldered and so on as the bike ages.



  • Registered Users Posts: 34,208 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    Most people that I know that use the brake light + only as a sensing circuit (to indicate IGN ON), and use it to switch a relay on/off.

    Tail light indicates ignition on.

    Yes brake lights only work with ignition on, but you also need to be braking...

    Fingal County Council are certainly not competent to be making decisions about the most important piece of infrastructure on the island. They need to stick to badly designed cycle lanes and deciding on whether Mrs Murphy can have her kitchen extension.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,002 ✭✭✭Wossack


    numberplate light an idea also



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,761 ✭✭✭✭galwaytt



    Yes, tail light is good, but the thinking I remember was that if your new wiring/accessory etc goes awol, then you only lose brake light, and your tail light stays working.

    There's voltage on brake circuit all the time with IGN ON, you need to tap into the circuit on the appropriate side. I remember wiring Honda Reg/Rec units into Suzuki's and always using the brake light circuit as the 'reference' circuit for the reg/rect to measure the 12v as a 'gate'.

    Some machines too iirc (it's been a while) have constant live to brake light with IGN ON, and only do the switching on the earth side. Again, the thinking is if the circuit goes awol you'll be left with a brake light 'on' rather than 'off'.

    Of course modern CANBUS etc throws all this in the air and used magic fairy dust :)

    Ode To The Motorist

    “And my existence, while grotesque and incomprehensible to you, generates funds to the exchequer. You don't want to acknowledge that as truth because, deep down in places you don't talk about at the Green Party, you want me on that road, you need me on that road. We use words like freedom, enjoyment, sport and community. We use these words as the backbone of a life spent instilling those values in our families and loved ones. You use them as a punch line. I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and sleeps under the tax revenue and the very freedom to spend it that I provide, and then questions the manner in which I provide it. I would rather you just said "thank you" and went on your way. Otherwise I suggest you pick up a bus pass and get the ********* ********* off the road” 



  • Registered Users Posts: 34,208 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    Ah right. I have it figured out now 😁

    Fingal County Council are certainly not competent to be making decisions about the most important piece of infrastructure on the island. They need to stick to badly designed cycle lanes and deciding on whether Mrs Murphy can have her kitchen extension.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    Kawasaki Versys Output Shaft

    Some time ago while changing the Chain and sprockets I noticed that the Output shaft was badly damaged due to the sprocket retaining nut being too loose


    I was on the lookout for a replacement gearbox and eventually organised one and have had it in the shed for a few weeks

    I swapped it out the gearbox yesterday put in some oil and adjusted the clutch and cranked it up

    Started fine no abnormal noise the Neutral light came on and the wheel rotated freely while on the paddock stand

    Put it in to first and got the usual Kawasaki Clunk let out the clutch and wheel rotates and I thought great :-)

    Tried second and worked fine

    Went to third and although I got the usual clunk of it going in to gear the wheel stopped spinning :-( Bummer

    Tried 4th gear and it was not having any of it just made a horrible grating sound So i thought I would Leave it alone and have a think about it before getting the hammer out

    So Today I thought maybe the Shift Rod needed adjusting as the gear Lever seemed very stiff to try to get in to gear

    Adjusted it back and forward with no improvement still would not go in to third and beyond

    Drained the oil and removed the selector cover again to see if I could move the selector drum by hand but seems very tight / Stiff

    I have taken the gearbox back out this morning and trying to have a look at it to see if anything jumps out at me

    Looking for ideas if there are any Gearbox Gurus out there




  • Registered Users Posts: 14,906 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey



    You should be able to turn the input shaft and move the shift drum through the gears, if it’s stiff it’s probably not correctly positioned.



  • Registered Users Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    Thanks for the reply CJ

    This has turned in to a bit of a mess :-(

    I took the gearbox back out to see if there was something simple i was missing

    I realized that I had not swapped over the locating dowels and although I did not think it would make any difference I swapped them over to the replacement box and reassembled again

    No joy still same

    Thinking the replacement box was duff i removed it again and took the output shaft from the replacement and put it in to my old box ( parts darts )

    put the old box back in and still got same issue although it does seem to go in to 3rd gear now

    Someone else suggested getting it off the paddock stand and drive it round the estate in 1st / 2nd second to see if anything drops in to place

    No joy still same

    Took the clutch off again and now removed the clutch & basket so that i can see both ends of the shift drum

    With the selector cover removed I can put the selector itself back on the shaft and try to cycle through the gears while turning the input or output shaft

    Gear 1 & 2 the pin stops mid way ready for to be caught on the next shift but Gear 3 the pin does not finish in the middle although it seems to be in gear it is slightly too high and the selector misses it and slides under it without rotating the drum on the next shift

    Photo 1 you can see the roller has not engaged fully on the cam stopped half way

    In photo no 2 you can see the 6 pins that the selector pushes to turn the drum and it stopped mid way and wont pull the drum round just slides underneath it

    On the drum cam I have put some marker 1 ( first gear position ) N ( neutral ) and 2 for second

    On Installation Manual says to put it In Neutral position and check that the shafts turn freely which it does


    Post edited by flashinthepan on


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,906 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Looking at the pins on the selector shaft on the old gearbox it looks like a lot of wear on the pins, I suspect the selector lever is the culprit either its worn or it needs to be adjusted to allow better contact on the shift pins can you adjust the height of the crab claw part to allow it sit higher on the shaft?



  • Registered Users Posts: 217 ✭✭KildareMan


    Received my rearsets from Japan. Very easy fit once I spent the time looking at the supplied instructions (in japanese but with pictures)

    Right side


    Left side


    Back 137mm and up 20mm

    Comfortable and feels just right



  • Registered Users Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    Yeah there is about 85000KM on it now

    No adjustment on the plate just the springs on either side to pull it up

    But from what I can see the normal resting position for 1st second and neutral the pin rests in the middle of the crab claws but after third gear

    and trying to go in to 4th is no longer settling in the middle and the crab claw piece sis slipping under the pin

    In this photo the it is in Neutral and the pin is in the center

    going to remove the box again and put the old one back in with the damaged shaft and see will it change

    Thanks for the reply :-)



  • Registered Users Posts: 14,906 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Could you put more tension on those springs to get the claw to move up further? I don’t know what stops the claw from moving up on the other side of the selector spring arm, but it might not be much. Also check the shift drum is indexing correctly if a shift fork is bent it might be causing a problem, check the forks are ok.



  • Registered Users Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    The Claw has a slot milled in to it and it goes over the shaft so cant come up any further

    The issue was definitely the replacement box as with the clutch and basket the drum would not rotate past 3rd gear

    I removed the box again ( getting to be an expert at it now ) and removed the output shaft and put the old damaged one back and reinstalled the box and other than the original damaged splines it is working Ok cycles through the gears by spinning the drive shaft by hand while turning the drum

    I have buttoned it back up & refilled the oil

    Started it up and runs and goes through the gears on the paddock stand

    If the weather co operates I might get it out for a little run later

    Thanks for your help CJ :-)

    J



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,761 ✭✭✭✭galwaytt



    well done for sticking at it: good result at the end.

    Ode To The Motorist

    “And my existence, while grotesque and incomprehensible to you, generates funds to the exchequer. You don't want to acknowledge that as truth because, deep down in places you don't talk about at the Green Party, you want me on that road, you need me on that road. We use words like freedom, enjoyment, sport and community. We use these words as the backbone of a life spent instilling those values in our families and loved ones. You use them as a punch line. I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and sleeps under the tax revenue and the very freedom to spend it that I provide, and then questions the manner in which I provide it. I would rather you just said "thank you" and went on your way. Otherwise I suggest you pick up a bus pass and get the ********* ********* off the road” 



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  • Registered Users Posts: 657 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    At least im back on the road so to speak

    Go out for a spin yesterday about 50Km

    Half thinking of selling it now I would like something a little lighter and better mpg and not so tall

    Maybe a CB500X



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