Rear ARB bushing size

Had that with mine hence the reason, as I said above, I went at the exahust. My entire back box fell off and when I checked off the 6 (or was it 7) hangers only two were in good nick. The rest were either rusted or already broken.

I was fortunate in a sense. I had an old exhaust from my other car and I cut the hangers off it (including about 1.5 inch "patch" of exhaust so as I wasn't trying to weld the hanger directly) then welded them onto the Mondeo exhaust. Trying to re-use the old hangers is asking for trouble. If they're rotted off then even if you manage to get enough good material to weld them back on it'll be a countdown to when they fail again.

The only solution most will give is to replace the exhaust, and while its the best option, its also the most expensive. You can fabricate new hangers, but they is intensive in terms of labour and welding exhaust is tricky given how thin it is and its proclivity to burn through. Or maybe thats just my crow s**t welding. 😁

The problem you have is the location of the broken hanger. If it were around the pipe I'd suggest a clamp with bit of bar and simply rehang it, but as its on the box there is not permanent or good clamping point. The best, and not too expensive, solution is to buy a new back box, cut the old one off, then use epoxy and a pipe joiner (stepped ones I find are best) and reconnect the new back box to the pipe. It'll save you in the long run. I think a new back box is in the 90 to 120 mark. Dn't hold me to that though.

My only other bit of "help" (I use that word loosely) if you don't want to go new, and cannot weld, and Frankly I'm embarrassed to even suggest any of the following is:

• To use a metal epoxy. Prop the exhaust up using blocks to its proper position. Use the broken hanger, as clean as you can get it, and use the epoxy to "weld" it back in place. A piece of thin wire (like bull wire) can be used for extra strength, but the biggest issue is keeping the hanger in place/position while the epoxy sets which takes about 60 - 90 minutes to "go off" then 12 to 24 hours to fully cure.
• Wrap the box with a metal strapping. Leave excess metal strapping and loop it through the rubber hanger and secure the strap back on itself with a nut/bolt.
• Drill the very outside edge of the box, where the hanger was originally welded onto, and put a piece of bent threaded bar up through the hole and into the rubber hanger. Bolt the threaded bar on both sides of the box where you drilled it to keep it secure on the box and then hook the end of the threaded bar to avoid it slipping our of the rubber hanger. Alternatively you can place a nut, then large washer, and another nut on the end of the threaded bar to avoid it coming out of the rubber.

Seriously though, bite the bullet and buy the new back box. String it up for the time being to get you out of a hole if needs be but go for the new box. Is she single or dual?

Scrappy might be useful. Cheaper than new and you can cut as much as you like, then join.

With a single exhaust, not so much. Mine is dual and the Y section sits across the subframe. I cut the pipe forward of the subframe, then realised I had to cut the other side (between the Y section and the back box) as the subframe would not allow the Y section to pass over it (to take it and back box off in one go, out the back). All it meant was an additional joint, so another tenner for a second connector.

With a single pipe I'd imagine you'd manage to remove the entire lot as mine was just shy of making it, but don't hold me to that as I haven't worked on one (Mondeo with single).

This is where I had the problem with mine. I had the car on ramps (while doing the exhaust). When I cut the exhaust and tried to get it from between the chssis and sub frame I couldn't. The Y section wouldn't go between the space and my problem was I had to drop the exhaust and twist/turn it as you mentioned, but due to the limited height of the car above the ground I couldn't drop the back enough to get th exhaust clear. I don't think I ever would have, it just wasn't going to fit.

However If your one is a single and you jack it giving you more height than with just ramps alone it should work. Might be no harm to jack the car and check yourself. You will need to drop the back box to the ground and twist/turn it to manage the curve of the exhaust through the gap so allow as much clearance off the ground as you can with the jack(s).

For these types of parts I tend to use my local motor factor. They're a big set up and if there are any problems its a short drive into them rather than the hassle and expense of sending something, bought online, back.

That can be off putting but the more important part is, is the hanger in the right place on the exhaust/box. It doesn't matter too much whether the hanger points east or west when mounted so long as the mounting poistion on the box/exhaust is identical. In other words so long as the hanger goes through the rubber when mounted then it doesn't matter if its does so from the O/S or N/S or the way the original did.

The backbox is only a "silencer" (misnomer, but there it is one the less). The NCT set a level of 99db as the maximum. If the tester thinks its too loud they'll test the db of the exhaust and if it exceeds this they'll fail it. You can download a db meter on your phone or buy the actual meter and test it yourself if that is the route you wish to take.

Other than that then a backbox delete should not be an issue once there are no leaks and as it does nothing in terms of emissions (thats what the CAT and DPF are for) so it'll have no impact in that sense.

DON'T take my word for it, obviously, as I've never done a delete and never ran a car through the test without one. However I fail to see why they would fail a car, or more accurately what reason they could use as a cause for failure, if the back box is gone and the emissions/db are within the NCTs own limitations.

I wouldn't be too concerned about how its repaired so long as its repaired. If the hangers can be cleaned up and welded on then so be it. I didn't replace anything on mine when I done them. I welded what needed welding and spent €30 on exhaust paste and a couple of connectors. Cheap solution but more importantly it worked.

As I had the entire exhasut off I also sanded it, primed it with zinc based anti rust primer, and painted it with high temp (schultz type) paint. No signs of leaks and its hanging exactly where it should.

Zinc primer. It has rust preventative qualities so give it a couple of coats of that (€10 from Halfords). Let it well harden (doesn't take too long) and then apply a few coats of paint and even (I do this) a couple of coats of clear coat.

I'd do this once welded otherwise you may need to sand all that primer/paint/clear coat off to get a good ground if you do so before welding.