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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,812 ✭✭✭✭Squidgy Black


    Those markings are usually just distances on the seatpost from the minimum insertion point so you can easily measure changes



  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 23,065 Mod ✭✭✭✭Brian?


    The critical thing is your knee angle at the bottom of the pedal stroke. There are apps you can film yourself on a turbo trainer that will allow you to make the correct adjustments. Is that something you can do?


    Or it’s actually really worthwhile splashing out on a proper bike fit.

    they/them/theirs


    The more you can increase fear of drugs and crime, welfare mothers, immigrants and aliens, the more you control all of the people.

    Noam Chomsky



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,444 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    If the clicking noise is present when coasting ( not pedalling), it's not the BB. It's your wheel bearings. Rear wheel most likely.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,608 ✭✭✭cletus


    It's not clicking in cadance with the wheel rotation, maybe every three revolutions of the wheel, which led me to think chain/front derailleur/crank.

    I can feel it on the crank arm, it's almost like a hitch or a catch



  • Moderators, Politics Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 44,392 Mod ✭✭✭✭Seth Brundle


    Planning on changing my 11-28 casette to something a bit more sympathetic to climbing such as 11-30 or 11-32.

    To my knowledge, I have the short rear derailleur as part of my 105 groupset

    So my question is, whilst I know I need to use a longer chain so this will be replaced, will the casette fit with my current derailleur (maybe adjusting the B-tension screw) or do I need new hardware?

    Am I better off moving to the '30 or the '32 given that I do enjoy quick spins on normal terrain around Dublin/Kildare?

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  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 54,405 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    a 105 short cage (5800 anyway) has a stated max of 28 teeth, but i've seen it claimed many times that this is quite conservative and many people have gotten it to work with a 30 tooth cassette. i wouldn't risk 32 teeth with it though.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 1,612 ✭✭✭hesker


    Sounds like a problem with your cassette/chain/RD. Worn or needing adjustment?

    I solved my problem but I’m left with another. I’m trying to get a Shimano 11 speed groupset to play nice with a Campy type wheel/freehub using a new Miche cassette and new KMC chain. Perfect in all gears except when moving from cog 2 to 3 when on the big ring.



  • Posts: 413 ✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I recently came across the website myvelofit.com

    It's a bike fitting tool that uses Ai apparently it's been trained on data from thousands of previous bike fits.

    I've made the saddle height and set back changes it has recommended however it still wants me to move the saddle back 5mm

    However I think I might have reached the limit of my saddle setback range?

    PXL_20210829_195118949.jpg

    It also wants me to increase my stem length by 10mm but I'll wait until the setback is done first before continuing. The good thing about the service is you can request a manual review by a qualified fitter.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 54,405 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    my gut reaction is the adjustments being suggested are too much. and yes, you can't push the saddle back any further. did you feel you were sitting too far forward to begin with?

    AI is not a panacea.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 1,612 ✭✭✭hesker


    That doesn’t sound right unless your bike is way too small for you.

    I like the bike fitter guy within this video. Fore aft saddle position is important to get the right balance between load on quads vs hamstrings. As well as weight balance between your hands and seat

    Edit: forgot the link. Neill Stanbury is the guy’s name

    It’s worth checking out his other videos too. Ultimately a face to face bike fit from a respected fitter is the best option.

    Post edited by hesker on


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  • Posts: 413 ✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Thanks I don't think the frame is too small for me, canyon used to have a detailed questionnaire on their website that asked you to measure your self in different places and then would suggest a size based on those measurements I'm a size small according to them.

    I definitely feel like I'm sitting better on the bike right now before making the adjustments before I was right up on the nose and had a lot of weight on my handlebars.

    It's still my intention to visit a reputable bike fitter when able.

    Just incase anyone wonders what the software does here is my video, also the garage isn't mine!

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/ejuQ6AbL8weRjwKG6

    Post edited by [Deleted User] on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 1,612 ✭✭✭hesker


    It might feel better because you’ve taken weight off your hands but that may not be the best way to go about it. You could end up over taxing your hamstrings and you’ll feel that on longer rides. Higher bar height could achieve the same without this issue or develop your core strength to cope.



  • Posts: 413 ✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I definitely need to improve my core strength, unfortunately however I don't think it's possible to raise my handlebars any further my stem is already at its maximum height.

    PXL_20210829_195155332.jpg

    Someone I know did suggest a seatpost with a longer lay back the one I have only goes back 25mm but Canyon do have one with a 35mm lay back. Does anyone know of any other brands of seatpost that can be set back further than the standard?



  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 23,065 Mod ✭✭✭✭Brian?


    Honestly, it seems like you bought the wrong size bike. The adjustments you’re making simply aren’t logical at this point.

    they/them/theirs


    The more you can increase fear of drugs and crime, welfare mothers, immigrants and aliens, the more you control all of the people.

    Noam Chomsky



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,715 ✭✭✭at1withmyself


    The seatpost you have looks like an inline seatpost.


    Assuming it's a standard 27.2 then you should be able to borrow one with 25mm set back. Or buy a cheap one.

    I think it's worth trying. Also you could get a cheap stem or again try borrow one. Then if it works out invest in better quality ones if needed.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,715 ✭✭✭at1withmyself


    Just curious why you think an increase of 10mm on stem length and increasing layback on a seat are not logical? I would have thought 30mm or so would be fairly standard so 10mm should be no problem.

    As everyone has different and unique dimensions then 1 size does not fit all.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 430 ✭✭ofthelord


    Hi All,

    If anyone here could identify the name/spec of the below derailleur hanger for me I'd be very greatful.

    I need to order a new one as this one has bent following a run in between my bike and some big rocks.

    Thanks in advance for any info!

    Hanger_img2.JPG Hanger_img1.JPG




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,766 ✭✭✭Wildly Boaring


    It would be unusual to move so far in one

    Unusual to need to go so far back.

    A lot of the modern bike fitters are bemoaning people being too stretched out on the bike (seat back and longer stem) and reckon it's a fashion.


    Someone linked Neil Stanbury earlier. Check him out. His videos are a great job.



  • Moderators, Politics Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 44,392 Mod ✭✭✭✭Seth Brundle


    I was wrong. I had been under the belief that mine was a short cage derailleur whereas my new LBS say it is a large one and can take a 32 tooth cassette so I have them swapping out the existing chain and cassette (I had already been having weird issues anyhow where it can occasionally feel slightly stiff in the mid range so am glad that it will be properly re-indexed & checked over as I don't have spare time this week to do it).

    On my quest to garner more info, I came across this ready reckoner which I thought was pretty cool: http://www.ritzelrechner.de/?GR=DERS&KB=34,50&RZ=11,12,13,14,15,17,19,21,23,25,28&UF=2215&TF=80&SL=2.6&UN=KMH&DV=speed&GR2=DERS&KB2=34,50&RZ2=11,12,13,14,16,18,20,22,25,28,32&UF2=2215

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  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 23,065 Mod ✭✭✭✭Brian?


    l say it because you’ve run out of space for spacers on your stem AND you can’t move your saddle back anymore. If the bike was the right size, I don’t think you’d need to max out either never mind both of them.


    1 size doesn’t fit all, which is why you can adjust the things you have. But you have to be in the right range to start with.


    are you sure about these adjustments?

    they/them/theirs


    The more you can increase fear of drugs and crime, welfare mothers, immigrants and aliens, the more you control all of the people.

    Noam Chomsky



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  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 54,405 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    would be much more useful if you knew the bike it came from - hangers come in many multiple shapes, and only a hyper detail aware bike mechanic would be able to say what that one is without further clues.



  • Posts: 413 ✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I took another couple of videos for their software to analyse, I think in total it told me to raise my seat by 2 cm before doing that I pushed the saddle forward a bit surprisingly their software hasn't recommended any changes to the saddle for and aft.

    Thanks for video linked earlier in the thread he also has another good one about cleat positioning, after hearing him talk about it I really want to try out a midfoot cleat position.

    Has anyone else tried a midfoot cleat position?



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 54,405 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    you haven't yet mentioned the problem you were trying to fix.

    if it told you to raise your saddle by 2cm (without qualifying that), i'd be immediately suspicious. i.e. from my own understanding it should probably tell you to raise it by no more than 1cm at a time.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 430 ✭✭ofthelord


    Hi magicbastarder,

    the bike is a Orbea Terra bought new 2019.

    I'm trying to work on my bikes myself these days cause i kinda enjoy it, and I'm frequently finding new things I have no idea about like the derailleur hanger.

    Thanks.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 54,405 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    if you go to orbea's website, under 'gear' they have a spare parts link - worth looking there?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 430 ✭✭ofthelord


    Thanks a lot. You are correct it is listed on their spare parts page - of course it never crossed my mind to check the Orbea site. I'll look to order a new one online in the morning.

    Thanks again.

    D



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,766 ✭✭✭Wildly Boaring


    Yeah I moved my cleats back far as I could after him.

    Ended up having to drop seat 3 or 4mm with it.

    I really like it now TBH.



  • Posts: 413 ✭✭ [Deleted User]


     sorry I should have explained it better, it wasn't 2cm in one go it was over the course of the software analysing two videos of me on the bike. Their system assesses your flexibility before they start making suggestions, I chose a fitting profile they call performance and comfort so I guess they are looking for a balance between the two based on my body's flexibility.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,812 ✭✭✭✭Squidgy Black


    Is there something you're trying to fix with your existing position? Too much pressure on the hands, or discomfort in your legs/knees/back etc?

    Reason I ask is I think you might be putting too much blind faith into a DIY video of a bike fit being analysed by software with no real human intervention and you've now pretty much maxed out a frame reach wise and drop reduction wise that you previously thought fit you by Canyon's measurements system.

    Might end up doing yourself more harm than good if there's not a specific issue you're trying to fix, and if there is get a proper bike fit before it gets worse



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  • Posts: 413 ✭✭ [Deleted User]


    To be honest when I had the bike out on the road I felt when I was in the drops it was hard to see the road ahead and more recently when I had the bike on the trainer It felt painful and there was definitely too much pressure on my hands.

    I'm happy that the software has gotten me into a better position and today I did a 40 minute workout and it definitely felt more comfortable.



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