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Wheelset or powermeter

  • 28-05-2021 12:06pm
    #1
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,161 Mod ✭✭✭✭


    Mulling over one or the other, my partner got a voucher for me to use, and is generously donating the voucher at a reduced rate to me. Not a bike to work thing, the company give rewards when big projects go well, and a very big project went very well.

    So here is my dilemma, I have been thinking and saving up for either a powermeter or a set of wheels, but still way off. I have put off the power meter as I can't get a 4iiii dual sided in my size in stock anywhere (specifically 165mm Ultegra or Dura Ace) and the Garmin SPD-SL are extortionate (and new and not validated), although now they are cheaper with this discounted voucher.

    The other option is I also could do with a set of spare disc wheels, and I am looking at either of these, which are now a lot more affordable: https://eu.huntbikewheels.com/collections/road-cx-disc-brake-wheels/products/hunt-30carbon-aero-disc-road-wheelset-1319g-30deep-27wide-999?variant=31723747803191#techspecs or https://eu.huntbikewheels.com/collections/gravel-wheels/products/gravel-race-disc-wheelset#techspecs

    If you had the choice, which would you go for, the wheels are a good practical option, having had to put the bike away when the wheels took ages to be repaired, also nice to have spares for races etc.

    But the powermeter is also nice, and I had scrapped the idea of the Garmin as they are extortionate but the 4iiii ticked a lot of boxes, full crankset replacement and I need new rings anyway, reasonable price, but just no stock.

    Tell me how to spend my money. In my head, wheels are winning out, and save for the 4iiii and hopefully it comes back into stock somewhere at some point.


«1

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 290 ✭✭JimmiesRustled


    CramCycle wrote: »
    Mulling over one or the other, my partner got a voucher for me to use, and is generously donating the voucher at a reduced rate to me. Not a bike to work thing, the company give rewards when big projects go well, and a very big project went very well.

    So here is my dilemma, I have been thinking and saving up for either a powermeter or a set of wheels, but still way off. I have put off the power meter as I can't get a 4iiii dual sided in my size in stock anywhere (specifically 165mm Ultegra or Dura Ace) and the Garmin SPD-SL are extortionate (and new and not validated), although now they are cheaper with this discounted voucher.

    The other option is I also could do with a set of spare disc wheels, and I am looking at either of these, which are now a lot more affordable: https://eu.huntbikewheels.com/collections/road-cx-disc-brake-wheels/products/hunt-30carbon-aero-disc-road-wheelset-1319g-30deep-27wide-999?variant=31723747803191#techspecs or https://eu.huntbikewheels.com/collections/gravel-wheels/products/gravel-race-disc-wheelset#techspecs

    If you had the choice, which would you go for, the wheels are a good practical option, having had to put the bike away when the wheels took ages to be repaired, also nice to have spares for races etc.

    But the powermeter is also nice, and I had scrapped the idea of the Garmin as they are extortionate but the 4iiii ticked a lot of boxes, full crankset replacement and I need new rings anyway, reasonable price, but just no stock.

    Tell me how to spend my money. In my head, wheels are winning out, and save for the 4iiii and hopefully it comes back into stock somewhere at some point.

    What BB do you have? Have a spare power meter on my cross bike (Not cross season so it's hanging up) if you want to borrow it for a few weeks/months to see how you get on before making a decision?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,932 ✭✭✭fat bloke


    Power meters are cheap no? Or at least have gotten cheaper. But wheels have gotten dearer.

    I've garmin vector 2s's for a long time now - could be more than 5 years, and they're still going strong. -I'm at the stage where I'm kinda expecting them to give up the ghost and I do muse upon what I might replace them with. The answer to my musing is usually the Assioma Ferrero Rochet whatchamacallums. Just based on price and reviews.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,161 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    What BB do you have? Have a spare power meter on my cross bike (Not cross season so it's hanging up) if you want to borrow it for a few weeks/months to see how you get on before making a decision?
    Shimano Hollowtech, so 30mm, if it works I might take you up on it for a trial. I like numbers but as someone who has never taken his trainign seriously, I would like to see if the want of a powermeter is actually a want or more like a child at christmas who won't use their new toy after a week or two.
    fat bloke wrote: »
    Power meters are cheap no? Or at least have gotten cheaper. But wheels have gotten dearer.

    I've garmin vector 2s's for a long time now - could be more than 5 years, and they're still going strong. -I'm at the stage where I'm kinda expecting them to give up the ghost and I do muse upon what I might replace them with. The answer to my musing is usually the Assioma Ferrero Rochet whatchamacallums. Just based on price and reviews.
    I am a weirdo but one of the deciding factors for going for a crankset version is that I really like SPD-SL, and I have used Look and speedplay. I am weird.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 290 ✭✭JimmiesRustled


    CramCycle wrote: »
    Shimano Hollowtech, so 30mm, if it works I might take you up on it for a trial. I like numbers but as someone who has never taken his trainign seriously, I would like to see if the want of a powermeter is actually a want or more like a child at christmas who won't use their new toy after a week or two.

    I am a weirdo but one of the deciding factors for going for a crankset version is that I really like SPD-SL, and I have used Look and speedplay. I am weird.

    I was pretty sure Shimano cranks were 24mm? The crank based PM I have is BB386 so 30mm spindle so might need to change out your bottom bracket if you do have 24mm. Could drop it off at the first Club league race if you want it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,932 ✭✭✭fat bloke


    That's fair enough. You like what you like. I was a firm fan of SPD-SL's too but then I got the PM as a pressie and had to switch to Look. If I were to claim that I noticed even the tiniest of infinitesimal differences between the two, I would be lying :).

    I presume you know that the new Garmin Rally is available for SPD SL and are still discounting on price. But if it is as it appears to be - basically a properly and finally (!) totally sorted Vector 3 system, then it should be really good.

    Also, as a powermeter user for a long time now - I would not pay the premium for dual sided. Single is perfect. All you need is a number and for that number to have some element of consistency.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,123 ✭✭✭LCD


    100% Wheelset.

    Looks better and the more you like your bike the more you`ll ride it

    Powermeter leads to intervals, which leads to training, which leads to boredom, which leads to not riding your bike.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,161 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    I was pretty sure Shimano cranks were 24mm? The crank based PM I have is BB386 so 30mm spindle so might need to change out your bottom bracket if you do have 24mm. Could drop it off at the first Club league race if you want it.

    You are 100% right


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,270 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    I have both a power meter and a set of Hunt wheels (I think they are the Aero Light Disc - alu). The wheels really transformed the bike I put them on (saved more than a kilo) whereas as I don't race, I barely notice if I amon the bike with the power meter or not.

    Although you could go for my wheelset (think it was 399) and a single sided power meter


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,932 ✭✭✭fat bloke


    To summarise then.

    A wheelset will make you think you're faster.

    A powermeter will shatter that illusion. :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,350 ✭✭✭Daroxtar


    You can post your current crankset to 4iiii and they'll fit the PM to it. That's what I've done, should be back to me the end of next week.


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  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,161 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Daroxtar wrote: »
    You can post your current crankset to 4iiii and they'll fit the PM to it. That's what I've done, should be back to me the end of next week.

    Voucher isn't accepted by 4iiii but I am slowly leaning more to the wheelset.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,105 ✭✭✭G1032


    fat bloke wrote: »
    That's fair enough. You like what you like. I was a firm fan of SPD-SL's too but then I got the PM as a pressie and had to switch to Look. If I were to claim that I noticed even the tiniest of infinitesimal differences between the two, I would be lying :).

    I presume you know that the new Garmin Rally is available for SPD SL and are still discounting on price. But if it is as it appears to be - basically a properly and finally (!) totally sorted Vector 3 system, then it should be really good.

    Also, as a powermeter user for a long time now - I would not pay the premium for dual sided. Single is perfect. All you need is a number and for that number to have some element of consistency.

    Same here. Always used SPD-SL but bought the Assioma Duo PM and had to switch to Look. I notice absolutely no difference whatsoever between the Shimano and Look cleats. I had put off buying the Assioma for a long while after reading so much about the cleat change being an obstacle. I honestly don't get what people are on about🙈

    Disagree re the dual sided though. I have a L/R imbalance at endurance watts that's as much as 3 to 4%. But at SS and threshold and above I'm pretty much 50/50 balanced. So if you don't have the imbalance consistently the same across your zones it's going to be problematic I'd imagine


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,932 ✭✭✭fat bloke


    G1032 wrote: »
    Disagree re the dual sided though. I have a L/R imbalance at endurance watts that's as much as 3 to 4%. But at SS and threshold and above I'm pretty much 50/50 balanced. So if you don't have the imbalance consistently the same across your zones it's going to be problematic I'd imagine

    My issue with the dual sided thing is that it's an interesting measurement.... once.
    The first time I checked it it was 49:51 and that's pretty much what it has always been. - What am I going to do about it? It's like measuring the length of my legs. What the hell can I do about it if I find out one is 1mm shorter than the other? It's interesting to measure once but where's the value re-measuring everytime I go out on my bike. So, for me, I paid a significant premium for a metric that is of no benefit to me.

    Good to hear another vote for the Assiomas though.

    Now if only my Garmins would stop working.... :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 290 ✭✭JimmiesRustled


    fat bloke wrote: »
    My issue with the dual sided thing is that it's an interesting measurement.... once.
    The first time I checked it it was 49:51 and that's pretty much what it has always been. - What am I going to do about it? It's like measuring the length of my legs. What the hell can I do about it if I find out one is 1mm shorter than the other? It's interesting to measure once but where's the value re-measuring everytime I go out on my bike. So, for me, I paid a significant premium for a metric that is of no benefit to me.

    Good to hear another vote for the Assiomas though.

    Now if only my Garmins would stop working.... :D

    I'd disagree re dual sided. I've been unfortunate enough to need a couple of surgeries on one of my knees. That leg actively puts out less power and the curve isn't linear.

    As an example of this, at 200W I might have a 48/52 split but at 300 it might be 45/55 and at 450W it might be 40/60. (It's not as bad as this for me as stated above)

    With my "weaker" leg being my right leg, a single sided power meter will overstate my power by quite a margin by just doubling what my left leg does.

    Granted I'm probably an outlier and if you're in or around a 50/50 split across all zones then I can see how it wouldn't be required for you but I wouldn't dismiss it either.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 313 ✭✭strmin


    New wheelset might increase level of enjoyment on a bike. Powermeter will certainly kill it. Powermeters are for pros or pro wanabes in my opinion.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,105 ✭✭✭G1032


    strmin wrote: »
    New wheelset might increase level of enjoyment on a bike. Powermeter will certainly kill it. Powermeters are for pros or pro wanabes in my opinion.

    LOL


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 290 ✭✭JimmiesRustled


    strmin wrote: »
    New wheelset might increase level of enjoyment on a bike. Powermeter will certainly kill it. Powermeters are for pros or pro wanabes in my opinion.

    I reckon that's a bit unfair really. If you don't have a huge amount of time, then power is the best way to train/get better. No guessing and no hiding.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 533 ✭✭✭Mr. Cats


    My vote would probably be for new wheelset as will increase enjoyment on bike.The main use I’ve found for power meter is for pacing longer efforts - say a 20 min climb. The level of additional enjoyment though from the wheelset upgrade will depend on how basic the current wheels are in my opinion.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,932 ✭✭✭fat bloke


    strmin wrote: »
    New wheelset might increase level of enjoyment on a bike. Powermeter will certainly kill it. Powermeters are for pros or pro wanabes in my opinion.

    Now that I definitely disagree with.

    I'm neither pro nor wannabe, but by far and away the best thing I ever did was buy and use a power meter. It cut through swathes of nonsense and notions, put structure on my training, benchmarked my output, massively increased interest and usage of turbo and rollers over the winters, is brilliant for structured interval training or even spontanteous out-on-a-spin intervals for keeping you focused on a long climb for example.

    A wheelset is lovely like a new car smell is lovely, but nothing has had a more positive and long-term consistent effect on my cycling than a pm.

    But, that's only my experience of it obviously.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 557 ✭✭✭MangleBadger


    I recently had this same conundrum. I went with wheelset as I only had stock cube RA wheels and I felt a set of carbon rims would be a much better upgrade, and i'm new enough that I can probably still improve enough without looking too hard at power numbers.

    But for you, you say the wheelset will be a spare wheelset, so surely you would get much more use out of the PM


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 313 ✭✭strmin


    fat bloke wrote: »
    Now that I definitely disagree with.

    I'm neither pro nor wannabe, but by far and away the best thing I ever did was buy and use a power meter. It cut through swathes of nonsense and notions, put structure on my training, benchmarked my output, massively increased interest and usage of turbo and rollers over the winters, is brilliant for structured interval training or even spontanteous out-on-a-spin intervals for keeping you focused on a long climb for example.

    A wheelset is lovely like a new car smell is lovely, but nothing has had a more positive and long-term consistent effect on my cycling than a pm.

    But, that's only my experience of it obviously.

    I totally understand your point. Powermeters have their place. You might not be pro wannabe, but you WANT to hit some target. You train, you do intervals. From your own words riding without a powermeter is just nonsense. Powermeter makes sense to you.
    But majority of people just enjoy riding their bikes and they don't think about intervals when they out.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 172 ✭✭pairofpears


    Have a Look at Power2max who have a dual sided PM starting at €540 incl cranks. I was told by a world pro that he only uses 4iii as they are a sponsor but he wouldnt touch them if he had a choice.
    New handbuilt wheels are an option and Robin Seymour or Apex Cycles in Kildare town are good people to speak to about handbuilt wheels. I got a set from Apex with DT Swiss components and am very happy with how they ride and how they have improved my ride.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 137 ✭✭themighty


    Might be worth taking a look at these as well. GPLama's review of the PM was very good. I'm planning on getting one (I've a Cannondale crank which makes everything awkward), just waiting for a voucher to arrive. I was going to hold out for the Favero SPD-SLs but I've run out of patience. I'm not swapping pedals systems, I've Shimano on everything now so locked in.

    https://retail.cigalacycling.com/collections/powermeters/products/inpeak-shimano-custom


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,161 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    themighty wrote: »
    I was going to hold out for the Favero SPD-SLs but I've run out of patience. I'm not swapping pedals systems, I've Shimano on everything now so locked in.

    These are what I was holding out for, but not even a hint from them that it even exists bar that one non validated article from cycling tips.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,932 ✭✭✭fat bloke


    strmin wrote: »
    . From your own words riding without a powermeter is just nonsense.

    Ah jeez no I certainly don't think that. I meant nonsense in regard to training intensity and stuff.

    For example, I changed to another bike there last year and just didn't bother putting the power pedals on. I was happy out riding around, happy as Larry. The for the winter I went back on the rollers and just used a speed sensor, thinking I was a great fella, pedalling hard, training like a hoor.

    A couple of weeks ago I put the pm back into action and repeated my winter training to see what I was actually doing to the speed sensor - sure I was only codding myself. No consistency at all within sessions and generally lower intensities both within and between sessions. In that way the pm cuts through self delusion or general training bullsh1te.

    Anyway they're not for everyone maybe but, particularly for winter indoor trainer motivation, I found it spectacularly good for me. Turning it off for the summer and just riding your bike - absolutely, I can completely understand that too.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,483 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    You want to split the power meter though iirc, hence the 4iiii dual sided? So it's a wheelset or power on two bikes? Otherwise, you could get something like a powerbox?

    I would say are you going to train with the Power or just to have the data afterwards?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 701 ✭✭✭Reality_Check1


    I recently got both.

    New wheel set all day every day. Power meter doesn't provide that much extra especially if you already have a smart trainer


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,255 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    Buy Both. (That’s what you really wants us to tell you right? :) )


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,161 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Macy0161 wrote: »
    You want to split the power meter though iirc, hence the 4iiii dual sided? So it's a wheelset or power on two bikes? Otherwise, you could get something like a powerbox?
    It was more out of interest, as in could I throw one crank on my CX bike with ease but I'm not that pushed.
    I would say are you going to train with the Power or just to have the data afterwards?
    I genuinely don't know, probably the latter. Stravas estimated power is miles off, mainly for interest in races, TTs and just I like numbers.
    I recently got both.

    New wheel set all day every day. Power meter doesn't provide that much extra especially if you already have a smart trainer
    Don't have a smart trainer, just crushed my soul sitting inside, it was nice for awhile but sold it on eventually.
    07Lapierre wrote: »
    Buy Both. (That’s what you really wants us to tell you right? :) )
    Probably will in the end.

    New wheelset it is for now.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,317 ✭✭✭✭Raam


    Get a powerset.... no.... a wheelmeter




    Have I helped?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,317 ✭✭✭✭Raam


    Seriously though, unless you plan on making use of a PM for training, then a wheelset sounds like the better choice.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,161 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Daroxtar wrote: »
    You can post your current crankset to 4iiii and they'll fit the PM to it. That's what I've done, should be back to me the end of next week.

    I was looking at this, what is the tax/customs issue with this? I can only see their Canadian site and worry I would get double stung for import tax, and how much is the customs in total?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,483 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    CramCycle wrote: »
    I was looking at this, what is the tax/customs issue with this? I can only see their Canadian site and worry I would get double stung for import tax, and how much is the customs in total?
    Ok, this is a bit weird, but I was just looking at this (for my GRX crank that's now spare - could move the 105 to something else). I only found experiences from the UK, but they seemed to shy away because of the VAT/ Customs issue v new options. Although presumably that was for more standard crank lengths.

    fwiw for me, if I felt the need, a new 105 looks a guaranteed price option, but I'm on 172.5mm cranks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,350 ✭✭✭Daroxtar


    CramCycle wrote: »
    I was looking at this, what is the tax/customs issue with this? I can only see their Canadian site and worry I would get double stung for import tax, and how much is the customs in total?

    I sent my crank to Canada last Monday. The label for FedEx that 4iiii provided was marked as a return and repair, value of $10. I haven't heard anything from customs and the crank is due for delivery to me this afternoon so I'm assuming their label was marked the same. I'll know more if the darling wife intercepts the package and gets hit for a bill on the doorstep :D


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,161 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Macy0161 wrote: »
    Ok, this is a bit weird, but I was just looking at this (for my GRX crank that's now spare - could move the 105 to something else). I only found experiences from the UK, but they seemed to shy away because of the VAT/ Customs issue v new options. Although presumably that was for more standard crank lengths.

    fwiw for me, if I felt the need, a new 105 looks a guaranteed price option, but I'm on 172.5mm cranks.

    My local shop has a dual sided 105 in 165mm and I am tempted but I, very shallowly, have a nice bike for the first time and everything is Ultegra, and I am being stupid, but I kind of want it to be Ultegra or higher. Once I lose my first race this year though I will get over that and settle for 105.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,483 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    Daroxtar wrote: »
    I sent my crank to Canada last Monday. The label for FedEx that 4iiii provided was marked as a return and repair, value of $10. I haven't heard anything from customs and the crank is due for delivery to me this afternoon so I'm assuming their label was marked the same. I'll know more if the darling wife intercepts the package and gets hit for a bill on the doorstep :D
    Let us know!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 387 ✭✭comete


    Having had power meters off and on over the years, sure, they’re unbeatable as a training tool when your head is in it, but when your head isn’t in it then it’s just an expensive graph on strava.

    I had a spell off the bike earlier this year, and coming back to it my sole aim for any spin is to hang in with the fast group and take as many turns as possible before I’m chewing the bars at the back and skipping turns. In other words they dictate the effort, not my power meter. I rarely train alone anymore, and when I do I don’t really look at my garmin, so power has become irrelevant for me at this moment in time.

    My 105 4iiii (which I had on an otherwise dura ace equipped bike) disintegrated and is going back for warranty repair, and I don’t really miss it. I’ll probably bump up my sale ad when I get it back after the repair.

    Conversely, I had a spoke snap on Sundays spin, and have just pulled the trigger on hunt 36/50 wheels because they had them in stock for immediate dispatch because I didn’t want to be forced to take more time off the bike. I’ll get my hope wheels rebuilt for wetter days and winter, or in the event my new wheels need repairs.

    TLDR, power is great if you’ve the head for consistent training, spare wheels are great so you’re not off the bike due to mechanicals, so I say use the voucher to buy your partner a surprise gift and get a set of midrange spare wheels :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 533 ✭✭✭Mr. Cats


    I mentioned earlier in thread about using a power meter for pacing a hill and another use case came up at weekend. There were two of us off the main group a bit in no mans land between a faster group and a slower group behind. I found the power meter useful again to judge my efforts when it was my turn to pull to keep it steady/manageable for my ‘teammate’.

    In saying this though I’m not a very experienced cyclist in these situations so I suppose for someone with more experience they can judge their efforts based on feel, without a power meter. For me though I do find it helps avoid going into the red unintentionally.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 387 ✭✭comete


    For longer efforts your heart rate is just as good for gauging your effort.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,161 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    The more I think about it the less I want a power meter, I love numbers but only out of interest, I have zero intention of changing from my well rounded race tactics of going from the gun, blowing up, getting caught, and doing it again. Wheels are ordered.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,105 ✭✭✭G1032


    comete wrote: »
    For longer efforts your heart rate is just as good for gauging your effort.

    It isn't really


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 387 ✭✭comete


    G1032 wrote: »
    It isn't really

    Why not?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,105 ✭✭✭G1032


    comete wrote: »
    Why not?

    Because in a properly done longer effort, (10 minutes or more), your HR will rise slowly over the first couple of minutes and then flatten out for the remainder of the effort. If you're tired it might take even longer to rise to the flat line, but this can differ from person to person. My HR for example rises much quicker when I'm tired.

    The tendancy on these longer efforts when only using HR is to get the HR to the target and try hold it for the effort. 9 times out of 10 this will mean you're overshooting your target wattage. HR I find shoots up too quickly when you're riding to a HR target. The first couple of minutes of a threshold effort for example always seem too easy to me when riding to power. But 10 minutes in you know it's bang on. With only HR to gauge effort it's next to impossible to trust that initial couple of minutes as a correct effort.

    You also tend to react to changes in HR brought on by going up inclines or down descents and subsequently change your power output. If you're maintaining a constant power your HR doesn't shift really significantly..

    Even on long endurance rides with HR only, I used to find that in order to keep my HR average within the prescribed range I could end up spending maybe 20% time in the wrong HR zone. When riding to a power target HR stays within the correct zones. Of course there are really no such things as zones, meaning that HR zones are kind of a continuum. Like if your upper Z2 is 140 BPM then 142 isn't going up give your a different physiological response, but when riding to power as opposed to HR your much more likely to hit a consistent HR.

    Basically with HR you're training to an output. With power you're training to the input.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 387 ✭✭comete


    G1032 wrote: »
    Because in a properly done longer effort, (10 minutes or more), your HR will rise slowly over the first couple of minutes and then flatten out for the remainder of the effort. If you're tired it might take even longer to rise to the flat line, but this can differ from person to person. My HR for example rises much quicker when I'm tired.

    The tendancy on these longer efforts when only using HR is to get the HR to the target and try hold it for the effort. 9 times out of 10 this will mean you're overshooting your target wattage. HR I find shoots up too quickly when you're riding to a HR target. The first couple of minutes of a threshold effort for example always seem too easy to me when riding to power. But 10 minutes in you know it's bang on. With only HR to gauge effort it's next to impossible to trust that initial couple of minutes as a correct effort.

    You also tend to react to changes in HR brought on by going up inclines or down descents and subsequently change your power output. If you're maintaining a constant power your HR doesn't shift really significantly..

    Even on long endurance rides with HR only, I used to find that in order to keep my HR average within the prescribed range I could end up spending maybe 20% time in the wrong HR zone. When riding to a power target HR stays within the correct zones. Of course there are really no such things as zones, meaning that HR zones are kind of a continuum. Like if your upper Z2 is 140 BPM then 142 isn't going up give your a different physiological response, but when riding to power as opposed to HR your much more likely to hit a consistent HR.

    Basically with HR you're training to an output. With power you're training to the input.

    Actually quite the opposite, hr is the input, power is the output.

    Many factors impact your heart rate, which one should know to listen to, but the worry with training to power is the tendency to ignore the input and focus on the output, which can lead to bigger issues.

    Look I’m not denying powermeters are great, of course they are, but are they essential, imo no. I had just as average a season training solely to hr as I did to power, and actually my best season to date was done by training to perceived exertion and learning how to race.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,287 ✭✭✭DaveyDave


    I got a 4iiii power meter for my birthday a few months ago. I don't race or have a training plan, I just go out and ride. Not even a fan of intervals. I just throw average power on the Garmin and try keep it up at a number I know is a reasonable effort. It's nice to put a measurement to my effort if I'm smashing a hill or sprinting a segment plus it's more accurate for calorie counting. At €290 as a birthday treat and on a bike that hasn't needed any upgrades for 4 years it was a no brainer.

    Of all the numbers to look at from time, distance, speed or meters climbed I feel power is the only number that's actually useful to me as I don't do a ton of cycling.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,350 ✭✭✭Daroxtar


    Your hr can vary significantly depending on how well rested you are. Relying on hr, I was absolutely shattered on the last day of a week long cycling holiday. Couldnt get the hr much above 150 and I was in the red at that where I'd usually be climbing steadily. Got a PM shortly after that and it was great for intervals for training. The following year on holidays I rode to power on the climbs and there was a huge difference as the week went on. HR was dropping as the fatigue was creeping in but I could sustain a set wattage and had loads in the tank when I needed it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,830 ✭✭✭doozerie


    Personally I'd love to be able to train effectively based on perceived effort, but it's a skill I don't possess, I'm rubbish at it. I've tried training with heart rate, and for mainly the same reason of being rubbish at moderating my effort, I struggled to make a go of it. I got a power meter to try to overcome my own shortcomings.

    The power meter made a huge difference to the quality and effectiveness of my training. But the power meter itself is just a tool of course, it's only useful if I use it well/properly. And the truth is that, while the power meter provides me with what I consider more useful feedback than HR, it's following a (TrainerRoad) training plan that has really made the difference for me in terms of training quality. In the absence of a decent training plan, the power meter would still be a useful tool for me, but it would be an extravagance that would be a lot harder to justify to myself.

    Re the power meter turning rides into a chore, I'm certainly prone to that issue myself when my main focus during a ride is that power display. But I would be the very same if I was training to HR, I'd still be focused on a number, just a different number. The tool isn't the issue there as much as me, I could just ignore the numbers but I know the training benefit of the ride would suffer. To a certain extent that's just the natural consequence of focusing on trying to get faster on the bike, the balance shifts from "going for a ride" to "getting maximum training benefit' more often than not. I can't blame the tools for that, just my inclination to focus on future goals rather than the in-the-moment fun of riding a bike.

    So for me, training to power has been very worthwhile, but it's about more than just the tool itself. Of course, you don't necessarily need a power meter to train to power. If you are happy to train regularly on a turbo then either a smart trainer, or training with virtual power, are just as useful and might(!) be cheaper.


    As for wheels, I like wheels, I like building wheels, I've been mucking about with wheels for years and spent longer than that reading about other people mucking about with wheels. While I consider good wheels hugely beneficial, my idea of what constitutes "good wheels" has shifted and changed a lot over the years.

    Like many people I drool over many of the top-end factory wheels available, but very few of them remain on my fantasy shopping list. I know that good wheels will make me marginally faster (quality bearings, aero rims, light weight, etc.), but I'm now a lot more honest with myself about exactly how small that marginal difference is, and how hard it would hit my pocket. Nowadays I'm much more inclined to think about whether the wheels are repairable if I break a spoke, or damage a rim, or how easy it will be to replace the bearings when that becomes necessary, etc.

    Many many wheelsets start to look a bit sheepish when viewed from that perspective. Factor in value for money, as subjective as that is, and I instantly rule out many more options. That leaves me with the option of building my own, or opting for professionally hand-built wheels that I know I'll be able to maintain no matter what happens to them over time - in either case I get a great deal of freedom to choose the various components myself, and I'll know what I'm getting (e.g. I can buy an actual Kinlin-branded rim rather than one that has been rebranded to look like something else, or buy a Miche or Bitex -branded hub rather than the very same hub with a different name and a significant price hike). Maybe it's an age thing, but those things matter a lot more to me now that they ever used to in the past.


    All of this is too late to count as telling you how to spend your money of course, since you've done that already. But that doesn't matter, because the best purchase is the one you are happy with rather than one which someone else swears blind is the "best thing ever". I'd some up my thoughts as:

    Buy a power meter if you want to get faster on a bike. But only if you don't have the skill to train effectively on perceived effort, and you are willing to commit to a regular training schedule.

    Buy a wheelset if you want to make your life easier in the long run with a pair of decent wheels with a long and reliable lifespan. But that means choosing the wheelset based on factors which often don't make their way into the marketing blurb. And I'd suggest looking at hand-built wheels.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,932 ✭✭✭fat bloke


    G1032 wrote: »
    Basically with HR you're training to an output. With power you're training to the input.

    I really like that description of it actually. I know people use the term "putting out" for power, but it's an instantaneous measurement of the effort you're "putting in" and HR is the laggy measure of the cardio/respiratory systemic result or reaction to that effort.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,350 ✭✭✭Daroxtar


    Macy0161 wrote: »
    Let us know!

    PM arrived, no customs charges. Happy days


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,483 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    Daroxtar wrote: »
    PM arrived, no customs charges. Happy days
    Turns out the 10 speed GRX isn't compatible anyway! Although do have 105 and Ultegra cranks that could go!


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