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The Great Big Lawnmower Thread

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  • Registered Users Posts: 8,351 ✭✭✭jmreire


    deezell wrote: »
    They don't make the GCV consumer engines in China, so perception is a premium Japanese made product, though all GCVs are produced in Italy and US, for their respective markets, and elsewhere, so no cheap slave produced engines, thus higher price.

    Whenever possible, I'd go for the Honda, currently we have a 1724 ride on and and automatic Izzy, with electric start + a Honda strimmers. So far , only problem was with a bearing the strimmers. We also have a a Castlegarden push mower with a B&G engine, which I we bought in 1984. It has the heavy plastic deck, so no rust problems. It was out of use for about 3 years in this time after been buried under a load of hay bales in the shed, and took awhile to start, but I got it going and its running ever since. When I have some rough out of control growth, it's my "GoTo" machine. I change the engine oil in all my machnes regularly, and that helps.So while Honda would be my engine of choice, nothing wrong with B&S engines either.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,406 ✭✭✭brianon


    Just a quick thank you for your help guys. A spring had popped off behind the carburetor (i think that's what it is). Re-attached and all good.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,351 ✭✭✭jmreire


    On the in-laws Mountfield ride on, the steering was getting very heavy in the straight ahead position, and when I checked the track bar it was hitting the disc above the drive pulley ( clutch /brake ?? ) but turning the steering wheel left or right, took the bar well away. Given that its very unlikely that the engine has moved forward , it has to be the axle (or its attachments ) have moved back. The axle itself only has a centre bolt, allowing it to move verticall, but not horizontally. I have to find the time to jack it up, remove the wheels and see exactly whats going on with it, but has anyone had this experience before? And not neccessarily confined to Mountfield, as most ride ons have the same kind of configuration.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,579 ✭✭✭deezell


    jmreire wrote: »
    On the in-laws Mountfield ride on, the steering was getting very heavy in the straight ahead position, and when I checked the track bar it was hitting the disc above the drive pulley ( clutch /brake ?? ) but turning the steering wheel left or right, took the bar well away. Given that its very unlikely that the engine has moved forward , it has to be the axle (or its attachments ) have moved back. The axle itself only has a centre bolt, allowing it to move verticall, but not horizontally. I have to find the time to jack it up, remove the wheels and see exactly whats going on with it, but has anyone had this experience before? And not neccessarily confined to Mountfield, as most ride ons have the same kind of configuration.

    The front axle bush holes, axle bolt shaft itself, and mounting plate holes can get very worn, causing a lot of play in the front axle, not just rotational but vertical, causing the axle to 'lean back' under pressure from the forward motion, pushing the track rod back and up. I had to replace a pressed steel castelgarden front axle because of this, but you also might need to replace the pivot bolt, as the axle may only use the steel plate as bushing surface on the bolt, resulting in deep scores on it and resulting slackness. Rotating this gives a bit of relief, but replacement is needed if it's scored.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,579 ✭✭✭deezell


    fryup wrote: »
    and B&S make theirs in sweatshops?
    'Course not. All their Chinese made stuff is built in trade unionised, free speech, free collective bargaining, government interference free private factories.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 18,069 ✭✭✭✭fryup


    thinking about getting a cordless walk behind

    has anyone ever bought a McAllister before, if so any good?

    https://www.diy.com/departments/mac-allister-mlm3640-li-cordless-36v-push-lawnmower/5036581062972_BQ.prd


  • Registered Users Posts: 311 ✭✭soundman45


    Any thoughts on mowers with the 139cc loncin engine, can't get much info about basic parts etc online, it seem to be in a lot of mowers and also a bigger 173cc i think


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,831 ✭✭✭✭loyatemu


    fryup wrote: »
    thinking about getting a cordless walk behind

    has anyone ever bought a McAllister before, if so any good?

    https://www.diy.com/departments/mac-allister-mlm3640-li-cordless-36v-push-lawnmower/5036581062972_BQ.prd

    Lidl have one in store tomorrow:
    https://www.lidl.ie/en/p/cordless-tools/cordless-lawnmower/p9617

    (battery/charger are separate)


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,070 ✭✭✭malinheader


    Has anyone any experience of the makita cordless lawnmower, comes with 2 /5.0Ah 18 volt batteries. Seems very well priced so just wondering what they are like.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,421 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    soundman45 wrote: »
    Any thoughts on mowers with the 139cc loncin engine, can't get much info about basic parts etc online, it seem to be in a lot of mowers and also a bigger 173cc i think

    Don't know about that particular one but some of their engines are Honda copies.

    I have another Honda copy and its OK, because of the lack of quality control its only luck if you get a good one or not.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 18,069 ✭✭✭✭fryup


    loyatemu wrote: »
    Lidl have one in store tomorrow:
    https://www.lidl.ie/en/p/cordless-tools/cordless-lawnmower/p9617

    (battery/charger are separate)

    its got a teeny 33cm cut, want one with 40cm cut min

    *note the angle of the photo, trying to make it look big:pac:


  • Registered Users Posts: 36 griffonmark


    I too was tempted by the petrol mower in Lidl tomorrow: B&S engine, ball bearing wheels etc. But I'm replacing a very old 5hp mower with dodgy deck but Briggs engine starting still with a tremendous amount of neglect. Budget would be 450ish for roughly two tennis court size grass area - but very long triangular shape fairly even grass. Appreciate some advice on self propelled mower capable of using mulching facility in dry summer every so often.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,351 ✭✭✭jmreire


    deezell wrote: »
    The front axle bush holes, axle bolt shaft itself, and mounting plate holes can get very worn, causing a lot of play in the front axle, not just rotational but vertical, causing the axle to 'lean back' under pressure from the forward motion, pushing the track rod back and up. I had to replace a pressed steel castelgarden front axle because of this, but you also might need to replace the pivot bolt, as the axle may only use the steel plate as bushing surface on the bolt, resulting in deep scores on it and resulting slackness. Rotating this gives a bit of relief, but replacement is needed if it's scored.

    I'll check that out when I get it jacked up and the wheels off. The mower itself is relatively new..this will be its 3rd cutting season. But the problem is that last year ( and this year too) its owner has started to use as transport for driving around the fields, as he is now having age related problems with walking. So I guess that kind of driving would prematurely wear any axle. Thanks again for your very helpfull advice.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,579 ✭✭✭deezell


    jmreire wrote: »
    I'll check that out when I get it jacked up and the wheels off. The mower itself is relatively new..this will be its 3rd cutting season. But the problem is that last year ( and this year too) its owner has started to use as transport for driving around the fields, as he is now having age related problems with walking. So I guess that kind of driving would prematurely wear any axle. Thanks again for your very helpfull advice.
    Too young for that kind of wear, even if on rough ground, but, , is there a possibilty it got a smack into a rut, or hard against a bank, or a kerb. Its possible both front wheel pivots or kingpins are bent backwards, turning the tie rod arms up and back. Lawn tractors are not tractors, they're ride on mowers. You wouldn't whack the wheels of a car straight into a footpath kerb, let alone a lawn mower, but it's easy to think it's in the same category of robustness as a mini tractor, quad or ATV, which it most certainly is not. Coincidentally, I had to repair that Castelgarden front axle with exactly that problem, wheel pivots strained by teenage operator stunt riding on it. It was only 3 years old at the time. The worn axle bush and bolt came 10+ years later.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,579 ✭✭✭deezell


    fryup wrote: »
    its got a teeny 33cm cut, want one with 40cm cut min

    *note the angle of the photo, trying to make it look big:pac:

    Haha, fisheye camera lens, (front wheel twice the size of rear), Tom Cruise dimensioned operator, (mower handle almost at shoulder height). Actually he looks about 12, with a photoshopped beard.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,351 ✭✭✭jmreire


    deezell wrote: »
    Too young for that kind of wear, even if on rough ground, but, , is there a possibilty it got a smack into a rut, or hard against a bank, or a kerb. Its possible both front wheel pivots or kingpins are bent backwards, turning the tie rod arms up and back. Lawn tractors are not tractors, they're ride on mowers. You wouldn't whack the wheels of a car straight into a footpath kerb, let alone a lawn mower, but it's easy to think it's in the same category of robustness as a mini tractor, quad or ATV, which it most certainly is not. Coincidentally, I had to repair that Castelgarden front axle with exactly that problem, wheel pivots strained by teenage operator stunt riding on it. It was only 3 years old at the time. The worn axle bush and bolt came 10+ years later.

    In its short life, the only question is not if it ever got whacked against a kerb, rut or other proturbence, it's how many times its been whacked.... I mean he drives it all over the farm, in and out of sheds and hard rough ground, in the fields themselves, meant for tractors, and the bigger the better. Its hard actually seeing how he is trying to manage. Lifetime on the same farm, and now he just is not able to move around as he was used to.
    The track bar is straight , that was visibe and easily checked,the axle pivots and track rod ends will be next when I get it up in the air. Then I'll take a measuring tape to it, and see if I can pin point the exact cause, Will be one of the things you have mentioned, I'd say.Thanks again.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,088 ✭✭✭Krombopulos Michael


    Mowing my Lawn yesterday with my stihl 5112 z ride on and after im done, using the leaf blower to clean off the worst of the grass before properly cleaning and I see this.

    I cant tell if this has always been this way or something that broke but the mower runs fine.

    20210331_181600.jpg
    548845.jpg

    20210331_181610.jpg
    548846.jpg

    Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,579 ✭✭✭deezell


    Mowing my Lawn yesterday with my stihl 5112 z ride on and after im done, using the leaf blower to clean off the worst of the grass before properly cleaning and I see this.

    I cant tell if this has always been this way or something that broke but the mower runs fine.

    20210331_181600.jpg
    548845.jpg

    20210331_181610.jpg
    548846.jpg

    Thanks

    Thats the deck drive belt tension quick release lever. Its part of the quick release deck system, no tools required, You pull it fully forward and hook it with small spring accessory to the frame. You can then drop off the deck drive belt, unclip the two rear deck mount levers, release the front deck mount bar, and slide the deck out sideways. Its actually fiddly and awkward in practice, but handy for winter service of the deck.

    Page 38.
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1boBaTZbPSd87QDp4ru0Zs__fgO79HIL5/view?usp=drivesdk


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,088 ✭✭✭Krombopulos Michael


    deezell wrote: »
    Thats the deck drive belt tension quick release lever. Its part of the quick release deck system, no tools required, You pull it fully forward and hook it with small spring accessory to the frame. You can then drop off the deck drive belt, unclip the two rear deck mount levers, release the front deck mount bar, and slide the deck out sideways. Its actually fiddly and awkward in practice, but handy for winter service of the deck.

    Page 38.
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1boBaTZbPSd87QDp4ru0Zs__fgO79HIL5/view?usp=drivesdk

    Legend as always Deezell. Thanks for the info.


  • Registered Users Posts: 18,069 ✭✭✭✭fryup


    Mowing my Lawn yesterday with my stihl 5112 z ride on

    oooooooooooooooooohh aren't we fancy

    the jaguar of ride on's


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,088 ✭✭✭Krombopulos Michael


    fryup wrote: »
    oooooooooooooooooohh aren't we fancy

    the jaguar of ride on's

    :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,579 ✭✭✭deezell


    fryup wrote: »
    oooooooooooooooooohh aren't we fancy

    the jaguar of ride on's

    It's a Ride alright.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,351 ✭✭✭jmreire


    deezell wrote: »
    The front axle bush holes, axle bolt shaft itself, and mounting plate holes can get very worn, causing a lot of play in the front axle, not just rotational but vertical, causing the axle to 'lean back' under pressure from the forward motion, pushing the track rod back and up. I had to replace a pressed steel castelgarden front axle because of this, but you also might need to replace the pivot bolt, as the axle may only use the steel plate as bushing surface on the bolt, resulting in deep scores on it and resulting slackness. Rotating this gives a bit of relief, but replacement is needed if it's scored.

    So today I found the time to jack it up and put stands under it. From the centre bolt of the axle outwards , there is minute wear all right which makes the wheels very wobbly, but that's not the cause of the problem. Above the belt drive pulley, there's another Disc ( not sure what its called, but I'd say its to do with engaging the cutting blades??? ) Its no longer in a fixed position that it should be in ( I think), and the only thing that stops it moving in a complete circle are the two "Ears" that are on it. In the straight ahead position, they hit off the track bar. . I had a 16mm socket which fits the center bolt holding the botton pulley in place, but I did not have with me a stillson or large spanner to hold the flat sided washer while undoing the 16mm bolt, ( BTW, is this left or Right side tread?) Is this a common problem in Castlegarden ride on's? .When I remove the centre bolt, am I in for any little surprises like springs or clips etc falling down from the assembly? Thanks for your help again Deezell


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,579 ✭✭✭deezell


    That looks like the electric blade clutch assembly, but it should be fixed from rotating by a plate or strut bolted to the frame. Its hard to tell from the image. There should be a restraint bolt through a hole or slot on one of the outer casing lugs. No need to drop the clutch if it has been working up to now, just fix the restraint. It looks like the track rod has prevented the casing from spinning, this would happen on disengagement, when the casing brake surface contacts the disconnected but still spinning pulley clutch disk. If the casing spun, it would rip out the clutch solenoid power cable connector, and the clutch would not operate. The shaft bolt is normally right hand thread, engine rotating clockwise viewed from top. If you take out this bolt you can drop the clutch if you want, but I'd leave well enough alone. To prevent the engine turning while removing the retaining bolt you could remove the engine top cover and put a wrench on the top nut.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,351 ✭✭✭jmreire


    deezell wrote: »
    That looks like the electric blade clutch assembly, but it should be fixed from rotating by a plate or strut bolted to the frame. Its hard to tell from the image. There should be a restraint bolt through a hole or slot on one of the outer casing lugs. No need to drop the clutch if it has been working up to now, just fix the restraint. It looks like the track rod has prevented the casing from spinning, this would happen on disengagement, when the casing brake surface contacts the disconnected but still spinning pulley clutch disk. If the casing spun, it would rip out the clutch solenoid power cable connector, and the clutch would not operate. The shaft bolt is normally right hand thread, engine rotating clockwise viewed from top. If you take out this bolt you can drop the clutch if you want, but I'd leave well enough alone. To prevent the engine turning while removing the retaining bolt you could remove the engine top cover and put a wrench on the top nut.

    Leave well enough alone is sound advice...:cool: I'll bring a mirror next time to see if I can spot where it should be anchored.. the neighbour has a Mountfield, and the one I'm looking at is a Castlegarden. But both seem the same underneath. The wires controlling the clutch are already stripped of insulation , but still functioning. Thanks again deezell.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,530 ✭✭✭gaiscioch


    Has anybody bought the Parkside cordless/battery lawnmower that's on special in Lidl today? How did you find it?

    https://www.lidl.ie/en/p/cordless-tools/cordless-lawnmower/p9617


  • Registered Users Posts: 18,069 ✭✭✭✭fryup




  • Registered Users Posts: 311 ✭✭soundman45


    Been looking online at 21in self propelled lawnmowers a particularly Legacy, Harry, Webb, and Cobra, to me they all look identical except for the colours, is this the case or am I missing something


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,504 ✭✭✭recyclebin


    Been looking for a 21inch self propelled myself and had a read through a good bit of this thread.

    After a bit of research it looks like these are all the same:
    Hyundai
    Pro Lawn Plus (Woodies)
    Cobra
    Legacy
    Harry
    Webb
    Herkules
    Sherpa
    Gardencare
    Blackstone (Agrieuro)

    Most are available with a few different engine options and with or without electric pushbutton start:
    Y173V (3.0 kW/4hp @2800rpm)
    Y196V (3.6kW/4.8hp @ 2800rpm)
    Briggs & Stratton
    Honda

    Woodies have it in store for €350 with the Y173V engine and electric start. They also have it on their website with a B&S engine for same price.

    In the end I went for the Blackstone with Y196V engine for just under €300 with the €10 euro off. Only ordered it last night so waiting for it to arrive. Just note that if you use the Agrieuro.de website prices look lower than Agrieuro.co.uk but they will still add Irish VAT when you go to pay so prices end up the same on both websites.

    The main reason I went with Agrieuro over the other options was for easier access for spare parts and price was slightly cheaper than Woodies. Everyone else looks more expensive. I even saw the Hyundai version with Y173V engine for sale in my local hardware store for €680!!!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 25 frosty90


    Hi all,

    I have a MF 135 with turf / grass tyres and I'm looking into buying a finishing mower to cut my acre of lawn. Its a fairly open space and I have a push mower for doing the edges, around trees etc.

    Has anyone here any experience with tractor mounted finishing mowers?

    I'm looking at 6 foot/ 180cm wide models.

    Not sure to go for a
    - Fleming / Major (rebranded Italian -made) for circa €1800. (without mulcher at this price)
    - Chinese made Gwaza / Danso / Clontrac or similar. Some of these such as the Gwaza have a mulcher (extra set of blades and enclosed housing to retain the grass.) These seem to come in around 1500 - 1600 inc. Vat, delivery etc.

    Has anyone here any experience of using any of these finishing mowers?

    Thanks!


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