Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

1187188190192193200

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,342 ✭✭✭limnam


    stevek93 wrote: »
    Anyone know how I would go about getting a damper put on my flue? I want to limit the amount of air coming down the chimney, with the breeze outside now the fire is struggling to keep lit.

    Could be wrong but I was under the impression you can't use them now due to regs. Would need to double check that though.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 747 ✭✭✭Forge83


    limnam wrote: »
    Could be wrong but I was under the impression you can't use them now due to regs. Would need to double check that though.

    You are correct.
    They increase the chance of a blockage which could lead to carbon monoxide poisoning.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 924 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    What device do I need to measure the vacuum in a chimney flue?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 747 ✭✭✭Forge83


    What device do I need to measure the vacuum in a chimney flue?

    A draught meter.
    https://www.orielflues.com/portfolio/draught-gauges/


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,404 ✭✭✭✭vicwatson


    Anybody with a two story house getting a warm chimney breast in the room above where the stove is?

    Is this safe?

    Is it a sign there might not be vermiculite between the flue liner and the actual chimney pot?? The chimney breast in upstairs room never used to get warm when I had an open fire.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,361 ✭✭✭jprboy


    vicwatson wrote: »
    Anybody with a two story house getting a warm chimney breast in the room above where the stove is?

    Is this safe?

    Is it a sign there might not be vermiculite between the flue liner and the actual chimney pot?? The chimney breast in upstairs room never used to get warm when I had an open fire.

    My parents got a stove fitted a few years ago in a very old house - always had an open fire prior to this.

    Some time last year they began to notice a smell of smoke upstairs. My father put his hand on the upstairs chimney breast and pulled it away immediately from a red hot surface!!!

    Called the local Fire Service out straight away and by all accounts they were magnificent in how they handled the whole thing. Drilled a large hole through the upstairs chimney breast and found that the fire was eating its way out from the chimney and total conflagration was imminent...... (well, if you burn your hand on a chimney breast it doesn't look good!)

    The company who installed the stove obviously didn't do a very good job, duh! My parents didn't go back to them about it (told them they should) and they got another outfit to sort it - they were hugely impressed with them.

    I know it's the coldest time of the year and a lot of companies are on holidays but it might be advisable to stop using the stove until you get it checked out.

    Best of luck.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,404 ✭✭✭✭vicwatson


    jprboy wrote: »
    My parents got a stove fitted a few years ago in a very old house - always had an open fire prior to this.

    Some time last year they began to notice a smell of smoke upstairs. My father put his hand on the upstairs chimney breast and pulled it away immediately from a red hot surface!!!

    Called the local Fire Service out straight away and by all accounts they were magnificent in how they handled the whole thing. Drilled a large hole through the upstairs chimney breast and found that the fire was eating its way out from the chimney and total conflagration was imminent...... (well, if you burn your hand on a chimney breast it doesn't look good!)

    The company who installed the stove obviously didn't do a very good job, duh! My parents didn't go back to them about it (told them they should) and they got another outfit to sort it - they were hugely impressed with them.

    I know it's the coldest time of the year and a lot of companies are on holidays but it might be advisable to stop using the stove until you get it checked out.

    Best of luck.

    Thanks but this is only warm to the touch, it’s nowhere near hot and it’s only in parts on the breast.

    It has a 904 flexi flue liner installed and have been only burning kiln dried wood and is only installed less than a year so can’t imagine any build up of combustible material.

    Guy is coming after Christmas anyway about something else and will quiz him then.

    Glad your folks were sorted. What a pain for them.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,533 ✭✭✭Car99


    vicwatson wrote: »
    Anybody with a two story house getting a warm chimney breast in the room above where the stove is?

    Is this safe?

    Is it a sign there might not be vermiculite between the flue liner and the actual chimney pot?? The chimney breast in upstairs room never used to get warm when I had an open fire.

    Did you replace the open fire with an insert stove or free standing stove? Stoves are a big block of metal that transfer heat in to anything near them. Where your open fire was pumping most of its heat straight out the chimney the stove metal heats up and gives the heat to the house which your chimney breast will soak up and turns the chimney breast into a heat radiator if the stove is lighting long enough.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,404 ✭✭✭✭vicwatson


    Car99 wrote: »
    Did you replace the open fire with an insert stove or free standing stove? Stoves are a big block of metal that transfer heat in to anything near them. Where your open fire was pumping most of its heat straight out the chimney the stove metal heats up and gives the heat to the house which your chimney breast will soak up and turns the chimney breast into a heat radiator if the stove is lighting long enough.

    Yep replaced the OF with insert stove. That was my thoughts on it too.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 924 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey




  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 747 ✭✭✭Forge83



    Yes looks like the same thing more or less.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,214 ✭✭✭chris_ie


    I have a Stanley Erin boiler stove. Lifted the top plate (one secured with bolts) and replaced the stove rope, it was missing in places and badly worn. Notice that even with primary and secondary air open now, it’s doesn’t burn as much meaning sometimes I need to open the grate door to kick it off when it dies down too much.

    For the top plate, does the rope go all the way around? I imagined it did but the ‘track’ for the rope didn’t seem to be there on the bends at the corners. Can’t imagine the rope would only be for the straight edges...

    Its likely just that we’re used the more air getting in before and burning up that bit more. But it’s a bit of a pain at times needing to open the grate door of fire starts smouldering. Only started after I did the rope. No chimney issue from what I can tell.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,200 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    chris_ie wrote: »
    I have a Stanley Erin boiler stove. Lifted the top plate (one secured with bolts) and replaced the stove rope, it was missing in places and badly worn. Notice that even with primary and secondary air open now, it’s doesn’t burn as much meaning sometimes I need to open the grate door to kick it off when it dies down too much.

    For the top plate, does the rope go all the way around? I imagined it did but the ‘track’ for the rope didn’t seem to be there on the bends at the corners. Can’t imagine the rope would only be for the straight edges...

    Its likely just that we’re used the more air getting in before and burning up that bit more. But it’s a bit of a pain at times needing to open the grate door of fire starts smouldering. Only started after I did the rope. No chimney issue from what I can tell.

    I have a Stanley Eirn as well nearly 30 years old now. Surprised rope burnt on top plate. Yes it goes all around. On the RHS of stove at the back there is a damper control. On our when it went in it was in the way so it was removed and silver knob only left. You should be able to adjust that to control air flow into stove.

    Inside the stove the back baffle can be in two positions. Ideally it should be towards the front. Obviously if you had the top plate off you cleaned any soot behind boiler away.

    I say adjust the side damper. At present it is 90% wood I burn in it. It is well dried out. It is still heating rads and room if kept fairly full.

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 454 ✭✭ebayissues


    Hey All,


    What modern stove would guys recommend? I have been looking at the scandi looking ones but being told it's not that effiicient and was recommended fireline/vitae 6kw.



    Could I get a PM for a reliable supplier & installer?


    Cheers


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 686 ✭✭✭Summer2020


    ebayissues wrote: »
    Hey All,


    What modern stove would guys recommend? I have been looking at the scandi looking ones but being told it's not that effiicient and was recommended fireline/vitae 6kw.



    Could I get a PM for a reliable supplier & installer?


    Cheers

    Would appreciate a pm for a reliable supplier and installer in Dublin too also.
    Presently have a gas fire which I don’t use with an open chimney, awful draughty and find the room very hard to get warm with the radiators.
    Will a stove fix the draught issue? Do stoves essentially block up the potential for heat to escape from the room up the chimney?

    Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,533 ✭✭✭Car99


    Summer2020 wrote: »
    Would appreciate a pm for a reliable supplier and installer in Dublin too also.
    Presently have a gas fire which I don’t use with an open chimney, awful draughty and find the room very hard to get warm with the radiators.
    Will a stove fix the draught issue? Do stoves essentially block up the potential for heat to escape from the room up the chimney?

    Thanks

    If its installed correctly yes they do stop the draught to a great extent. I presume you want an insert stove to go in the fireplace . I have a stanley cara non boiler insert stove and I find it good for my requirements mostly to block the chimney draught.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 686 ✭✭✭Summer2020


    Car99 wrote: »
    If its installed correctly yes they do stop the draught to a great extent. I presume you want an insert stove to go in the fireplace . I have a stanley cara non boiler insert stove and I find it good for my requirements mostly to block the chimney draught.

    Yeah if it’s an insert stove that will stop the heat escaping from the room. To be honest the stove itself would only be occasionally used. It’s mainly to “block up” the chimney and stop the heat loss.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 605 ✭✭✭upupup


    Summer2020 wrote: »
    Yeah if it’s an insert stove that will stop the heat escaping from the room. To be honest the stove itself would only be occasionally used. It’s mainly to “block up” the chimney and stop the heat loss.

    Try a chimney balloon first before you spend money on a stove.
    https://www.goodwins.ie/products/chimney-flue-balloon.html


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,404 ✭✭✭✭vicwatson


    Car99 wrote: »
    Did you replace the open fire with an insert stove or free standing stove? Stoves are a big block of metal that transfer heat in to anything near them. Where your open fire was pumping most of its heat straight out the chimney the stove metal heats up and gives the heat to the house which your chimney breast will soak up and turns the chimney breast into a heat radiator if the stove is lighting long enough.

    If there was sufficient vermiculite in place between the flue and the existing chimney would you still get this radiated heat? Or is it a sign that there is no vermiculite in place?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 689 ✭✭✭Skippy along


    vicwatson wrote: »
    Anybody with a two story house getting a warm chimney breast in the room above where the stove is?

    Is this safe?

    Is it a sign there might not be vermiculite between the flue liner and the actual chimney pot?? The chimney breast in upstairs room never used to get warm when I had an open fire.

    I'm in the same situation have a Henley arklow insert stove flue installed 3 years ago just had chimmey swep its flexi lined and filled with vermiculite the morning after the chimney breast downstairs and in my bedroom upstairs has a warm feel to it and is still there now even at 6.30 haven't lit it yet.. Must admit had a belter of a fire going last night..


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,533 ✭✭✭Car99


    I'm in the same situation have a Henley arklow insert stove flue installed 3 years ago just had chimmey swep its flexi lined and filled with vermiculite the morning after the chimney breast downstairs and in my bedroom upstairs has a warm feel to it and is still there now even at 6.30 haven't lit it yet.. Must admit had a belter of a fire going last night..

    Isnt it great the wall becomes a heat sink and keeps giving out heat for hours after.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 559 ✭✭✭whodafunk


    Hi All,

    I recently purchased a Stanley Cara insert stove. According to the instructions it's 6.5KW output. I used it to mainly burn peat briquettes and wood (good quality). To be honest even after playing about with the controls I don't find that it throws out huge amount of heat - primary air supply open (for max heat) and secondary air supply (open) and spin valve fully open - to give best heat output but also burns quicker. Any ideas am I doing anything wrong? Should I be burning stove coal for better heat output or is it just a case this it a low output stove? Really hoping this is not the case.

    Thank you


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,200 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    whodafunk wrote: »
    Hi All,

    I recently purchased a Stanley Cara insert stove. According to the instructions it's 6.5KW output. I used it to mainly burn peat briquettes and wood (good quality). To be honest even after playing about with the controls I don't find that it throws out huge amount of heat - primary air supply open (for max heat) and secondary air supply (open) and spin valve fully open - to give best heat output but also burns quicker. Any ideas am I doing anything wrong? Should I be burning stove coal for better heat output or is it just a case this it a low output stove? Really hoping this is not the case.

    Thank you

    The more air that goes into a stove the more heat that goes up a chimney. After a stove starts to burn it should be closed down to minimum air intake. This achieves a static burn that throws out heat.

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 194 ✭✭Maximus_1


    whodafunk wrote: »
    Hi All,

    I recently purchased a Stanley Cara insert stove. According to the instructions it's 6.5KW output. I used it to mainly burn peat briquettes and wood (good quality). To be honest even after playing about with the controls I don't find that it throws out huge amount of heat - primary air supply open (for max heat) and secondary air supply (open) and spin valve fully open - to give best heat output but also burns quicker. Any ideas am I doing anything wrong? Should I be burning stove coal for better heat output or is it just a case this it a low output stove? Really hoping this is not the case.

    Thank you

    Depends too on the size of the room. We have a 6kw Vitae insert since October and once it gets going room is toasty. It's about 4m X 4m. Standard height ceiling of 8ft. After about 20 or 30 mins I can turn it well down and it burns slowly. Using briquettes like yourself. I assume once it's fitted properly and it's the correctly sized it should be working better but I'm no expert


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,533 ✭✭✭Car99


    whodafunk wrote: »
    Hi All,

    I recently purchased a Stanley Cara insert stove. According to the instructions it's 6.5KW output. I used it to mainly burn peat briquettes and wood (good quality). To be honest even after playing about with the controls I don't find that it throws out huge amount of heat - primary air supply open (for max heat) and secondary air supply (open) and spin valve fully open - to give best heat output but also burns quicker. Any ideas am I doing anything wrong? Should I be burning stove coal for better heat output or is it just a case this it a low output stove? Really hoping this is not the case.

    Thank you

    I have a stanley cara in a 15 x 18ft room. My experience is this insert stove wont throw out heat in the same way as you got from a large roaring open fire but it also only consumes a fraction of the fuel a roaring open fire would consume. I find the cara has to be got up to a good temp before you will notice it heating the room . Once it is up to temp you just have to keep it ticking over adjusting your air dampers to suit. I use a mixture of wood and smokeless stove coal. I dont think peat briquettes are a good fuel for a stove , too much ash and dont burn very hot for very long.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,404 ✭✭✭✭vicwatson


    The more air that goes into a stove the more heat that goes up a chimney. After a stove starts to burn it should be closed down to minimum air intake. This achieves a static burn that throws out heat.

    I find the glass gets dirty easily unless I have top damper open a good bit (this with birch, burned oak before and didn’t have as much an issue, much easier to control)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 605 ✭✭✭upupup


    whodafunk wrote: »
    Hi All,

    I recently purchased a Stanley Cara insert stove. According to the instructions it's 6.5KW output. I used it to mainly burn peat briquettes and wood (good quality). To be honest even after playing about with the controls I don't find that it throws out huge amount of heat - primary air supply open (for max heat) and secondary air supply (open) and spin valve fully open - to give best heat output but also burns quicker. Any ideas am I doing anything wrong? Should I be burning stove coal for better heat output or is it just a case this it a low output stove? Really hoping this is not the case.

    Thank you

    You can have all the controls fully open with coal and it will last much longer than briquettes and give out a lot more heat,,,,refueling is less often too.You may need to light the stove earlier as inserts are slower to give out heat.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 530 ✭✭✭cathy427


    One bar on the grate of my henley apollo has burnt away leaving a gap.

    Everywhere is sold out of the replacement grates at the moment - is there any kind of generic temporary product I could slot in?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 747 ✭✭✭Forge83


    cathy427 wrote: »
    One bar on the grate of my henley apollo has burnt away leaving a gap.

    Everywhere is sold out of the replacement grates at the moment - is there any kind of generic temporary product I could slot in?

    It’s the same stove as a Heritage Pollmore or a Mazona Portland.
    Try contacting shops which sell these for a grate.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,533 ✭✭✭Car99


    cathy427 wrote: »
    One bar on the grate of my henley apollo has burnt away leaving a gap.

    Everywhere is sold out of the replacement grates at the moment - is there any kind of generic temporary product I could slot in?

    A bit of good quality 1/2 !square mesh would keep you ticking over for a bit or a bit of re bar depending on size of the hole


Advertisement