stevek93 wrote: » Anyone know how I would go about getting a damper put on my flue? I want to limit the amount of air coming down the chimney, with the breeze outside now the fire is struggling to keep lit.
limnam wrote: » Could be wrong but I was under the impression you can't use them now due to regs. Would need to double check that though.
funkey_monkey wrote: » What device do I need to measure the vacuum in a chimney flue?
vicwatson wrote: » Anybody with a two story house getting a warm chimney breast in the room above where the stove is? Is this safe? Is it a sign there might not be vermiculite between the flue liner and the actual chimney pot?? The chimney breast in upstairs room never used to get warm when I had an open fire.
jprboy wrote: » My parents got a stove fitted a few years ago in a very old house - always had an open fire prior to this. Some time last year they began to notice a smell of smoke upstairs. My father put his hand on the upstairs chimney breast and pulled it away immediately from a red hot surface!!! Called the local Fire Service out straight away and by all accounts they were magnificent in how they handled the whole thing. Drilled a large hole through the upstairs chimney breast and found that the fire was eating its way out from the chimney and total conflagration was imminent...... (well, if you burn your hand on a chimney breast it doesn't look good!) The company who installed the stove obviously didn't do a very good job, duh! My parents didn't go back to them about it (told them they should) and they got another outfit to sort it - they were hugely impressed with them. I know it's the coldest time of the year and a lot of companies are on holidays but it might be advisable to stop using the stove until you get it checked out. Best of luck.
Car99 wrote: » Did you replace the open fire with an insert stove or free standing stove? Stoves are a big block of metal that transfer heat in to anything near them. Where your open fire was pumping most of its heat straight out the chimney the stove metal heats up and gives the heat to the house which your chimney breast will soak up and turns the chimney breast into a heat radiator if the stove is lighting long enough.
Forge83 wrote: » A draught meter.https://www.orielflues.com/portfolio/draught-gauges/
funkey_monkey wrote: » Thanks. A bit more expensive than I wanted for single task. Would this work too?https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B07231ST67/ref=psdcmw_2486243031_t1_B07K87NQMD Or this one:https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01CZFCQAO/ref=psdcmw_2486243031_t1_B07231ST67
chris_ie wrote: » I have a Stanley Erin boiler stove. Lifted the top plate (one secured with bolts) and replaced the stove rope, it was missing in places and badly worn. Notice that even with primary and secondary air open now, it’s doesn’t burn as much meaning sometimes I need to open the grate door to kick it off when it dies down too much. For the top plate, does the rope go all the way around? I imagined it did but the ‘track’ for the rope didn’t seem to be there on the bends at the corners. Can’t imagine the rope would only be for the straight edges... Its likely just that we’re used the more air getting in before and burning up that bit more. But it’s a bit of a pain at times needing to open the grate door of fire starts smouldering. Only started after I did the rope. No chimney issue from what I can tell.
ebayissues wrote: » Hey All, What modern stove would guys recommend? I have been looking at the scandi looking ones but being told it's not that effiicient and was recommended fireline/vitae 6kw. Could I get a PM for a reliable supplier & installer? Cheers
Summer2020 wrote: » Would appreciate a pm for a reliable supplier and installer in Dublin too also. Presently have a gas fire which I don’t use with an open chimney, awful draughty and find the room very hard to get warm with the radiators. Will a stove fix the draught issue? Do stoves essentially block up the potential for heat to escape from the room up the chimney? Thanks
Car99 wrote: » If its installed correctly yes they do stop the draught to a great extent. I presume you want an insert stove to go in the fireplace . I have a stanley cara non boiler insert stove and I find it good for my requirements mostly to block the chimney draught.
Summer2020 wrote: » Yeah if it’s an insert stove that will stop the heat escaping from the room. To be honest the stove itself would only be occasionally used. It’s mainly to “block up” the chimney and stop the heat loss.
Skippy along wrote: » I'm in the same situation have a Henley arklow insert stove flue installed 3 years ago just had chimmey swep its flexi lined and filled with vermiculite the morning after the chimney breast downstairs and in my bedroom upstairs has a warm feel to it and is still there now even at 6.30 haven't lit it yet.. Must admit had a belter of a fire going last night..
whodafunk wrote: » Hi All, I recently purchased a Stanley Cara insert stove. According to the instructions it's 6.5KW output. I used it to mainly burn peat briquettes and wood (good quality). To be honest even after playing about with the controls I don't find that it throws out huge amount of heat - primary air supply open (for max heat) and secondary air supply (open) and spin valve fully open - to give best heat output but also burns quicker. Any ideas am I doing anything wrong? Should I be burning stove coal for better heat output or is it just a case this it a low output stove? Really hoping this is not the case. Thank you
Bass Reeves wrote: » The more air that goes into a stove the more heat that goes up a chimney. After a stove starts to burn it should be closed down to minimum air intake. This achieves a static burn that throws out heat.
cathy427 wrote: » One bar on the grate of my henley apollo has burnt away leaving a gap. Everywhere is sold out of the replacement grates at the moment - is there any kind of generic temporary product I could slot in?
