STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

Bass Reeves

Joe-Bloggs wrote: »

It heats the house fine, just looking for options at the moment. I'm getting tired of the mess and work it causes with the ash dust, dirt from wood and turf and having to get the turf to the house ��. Looking for something simpler as I get older

Turf is neither the cheapest or cleanest fuel. I burn mainly wood and a small bit of smokeless coal. However you need dry wood. Woodpellet stoves while vey efficient and clean are not exactly cheap run. As a room heater expect to pay about 1500 minimum for one and about 1-1.5k to fit. That presuming no major structural work is required to install the stove.

Pellet stoves cost a bit more to run as the expected reduction in the cost of pellets never materialised. As well you will have annual maintenance costs and parts cost long term. However I can understand the thinking behind your choice. One other thing to be aware of is that if the electricity. Goes out you will not have a source of heat in the house.

JCDUB

Hi all,

Very informative thread, thank you!

I couldn't see a list of installers anywhere, although I'm not sure that's allowed.

I need a 4/6kw wood burning stove fitted.

Can anybody recommend a fitter please?

PM's welcome, thanks in advance.

Irish Gunner

Irish Gunner wrote: »

Ok reading through the posts to try and find answers which I am sure is somewhere, still searching

We got a Henley CAMBRIDGE 5kW - Black installed in the summer and only beginning to light it recently

https://mcdhomeandgarden.ie/stoves/16-henley-cambridge-5kw-multi-fuel-stove-freestanding.html

Got 10 bags of Kiln Dried Logs from Monahans and just using these.

So kindles and Firelights to get it started and I am not a twisted Firestarter but learning

So get it started and leave door ajar to get it lit up and then leave air vent open at the bottom and the leaver a the top to the right then once lit up add Wood but leave vents as is.

Anywho the glass regularly picks up heat and goes black.

So do we need to leave vents open to stop this or anything different we should be doing to become a Firestarter twisted Firestarter and prevent glass going black?

Thanks

So a few things that might help you here:

1. You always start small with a stove fire and built it up gradually over the first hour. So kindling, fire lighter, 1 small log- that's it.

2. Open the vents all the way and CLOSE THE DOOR- modern stoves are designed to work with the door closed, not open. A recent tragic fire cost the lives of two elderly people because they kept their stove door open.

3. Keep the vents fully open for a good 15-20 minutes until there's a good glow to the log and the flames are dying down. Then 1/2 close the vents.

4. Add another log (small) to fire and keep doing this every 20 mins or so- but NEVER overload the stove.

After about 1.5 hours, your stove will have built up a lovely mound of glowing fuel- this is when you can consider closing down the vents even further and place a larger log onto it which should burn slower than the previous ones and give lovely gradual heat.

Depending on the logs, you may need to temporarily open up the vents again, but just until flames appear- then close them back gradually.

Always check the size of the logs you've purchased with the size of your stove- some logs will be too big to fit in to a small stove or will just barely fit, resting close to the window- again, this will invariably create the blackened window. You'll also do damage to the door seals over time.

The black window happens for a number of reasons, but mainly:

Overloaded fire and/or Logs too close to the window

It does take practice to get to know your stove but consult your manufacturers guidebook to learn about its particular vent controls.

I've had mine about 18 months now and i've greatly reduced the amount of fuel i use by knowing what the stove needs and when but it took time-

limnam

limnam wrote: »

I've heard wiping with ash can cause small scratches that make the glass weaker over time.

Must look into it a bit more as it is a handy way of cleaning it

Don't know how true that is but it's how i clean my window every time i clear out the stove.
I use a slightly wet/damp bounty kitchen towel (they're practically indestructible) dip it into the ash, and rub the window. then dry off with dry kitchen towel- glowing window every time.

Vittu

I use oven cleaner, spray and after 1 min every thing wipes off spotless.

misc2013

Currently researching the possibility of installing an insert pellet stove into an open fireplace.. Would prefer one flush with chimney breast but apart from pricing the stoves themselves, have no idea what cost is involved to do this or is it a lot more expensive than placing a more regular stove in the fireplace area as such. Any ideas? How economical are they to run? We also have a back boiler but it's 30 yrs old and wouldn't be v effective but then we've never had anything done with it ie "serviced it" if that's a thing to do. We've OFCH and planning to upgrade the heating system with new boiler and thermostat rad controls.

Bass Reeves

misc2013 wrote: »

Currently researching the possibility of installing an insert pellet stove into an open fireplace.. Would prefer one flush with chimney breast but apart from pricing the stoves themselves, have no idea what cost is involved to do this or is it a lot more expensive than placing a more regular stove in the fireplace area as such. Any ideas? How economical are they to run? We also have a back boiler but it's 30 yrs old and wouldn't be v effective but then we've never had anything done with it ie "serviced it" if that's a thing to do. We've OFCH and planning to upgrade the heating system with new boiler and thermostat rad controls.

Physically similar to install as an ordinary stove. You need a power supply. Price of pellets have remained high. You can get them with a boiler so they could connect into you back boiler plumbing. They take as long as an ordinary stove to get started. They vary a lot in price. Expect to pay 2k+ for an ordinary insert pellet stove. I consider opening up the fireplace and installing a free-standing one

The world over

Just looking for a small bit of advice. Just done a recent kitchen/living area extension and going to put in a solid fuel standalone stove with no back boiler. The all in one kitchen/living area room is quite large at 50 sq metres. Would anyone have any general advice or recommendations on what to buy.

misc2013

Bass Reeves wrote: »

Physically similar to install as an ordinary stove. You need a power supply. Price of pellets have remained high. You can get them with a boiler so they could connect into you back boiler plumbing. They take as long as an ordinary stove to get started. They vary a lot in price. Expect to pay 2k+ for an ordinary insert pellet stove. I consider opening up the fireplace and installing a free-standing one

Are you quoting based on back boiler or not?
Either system, do you need a power supply to the chimney?? Really know nothing about this. We were hoping to modernise our living room with one of those flush insert stoves fitted into existing chimney but not at a ridiculous price either.

Lenny lynch

misc2013 wrote: »

Currently researching the possibility of installing an insert pellet stove into an open fireplace.. Would prefer one flush with chimney breast but apart from pricing the stoves themselves, have no idea what cost is involved to do this or is it a lot more expensive than placing a more regular stove in the fireplace area as such. Any ideas? How economical are they to run? We also have a back boiler but it's 30 yrs old and wouldn't be v effective but then we've never had anything done with it ie "serviced it" if that's a thing to do. We've OFCH and planning to upgrade the heating system with new boiler and thermostat rad controls.

Recently installed a multi fuel insert stove into an old open fireplace, great heat out of it and burns very little wood. To be fair it’s not a big room 14ft x 11ft. Considered putting in a free standing stove but you’d only fit a tiny one into the opening and wanted it flush with wall so went with bigger insert

misc2013

Lenny lynch wrote: »

Recently installed a multi fuel insert stove into an old open fireplace, great heat out of it and burns very little wood. To be fair it’s not a big room 14ft x 11ft. Considered putting in a free standing stove but you’d only fit a tiny one into the opening and wanted it flush with wall so went with bigger insert

Would you be able to post a pic please with cost? Our living room is similar size.

Lenny lynch

misc2013 wrote: »

Would you be able to post a pic please with cost? Our living room is similar size.

Not too sure on cost as we did other work too, slabbed the walls and new floor, how do you dm pics?

Bass Reeves

Lenny lynch wrote: »

Not too sure on cost as we did other work too, slabbed the walls and new floor, how do you dm pics?

You have to have a minimum number of posts before you can put up photos

pumpkinpie86

Having some problems with a stove we've installed ourselves, hope someone can help...

Old 50's built cottage, previously had an open fire in the room, no central heating. We took out the fireplace and put a Henley stove in - just a few feet of pipe up to a ceramic lined chimney pipe. Doesn't seal with the liner, and the pipes have also been put in with the joins upside down because of the reducer not fitting. Metal cowl on top of chimney outside.

Tar has been dripping down the pipe, and today now water/condensation seems to be pooling behind the stove too.

It's a rough job, and I'm aware of that, but the hope was that it would be okay for a few months, as the house has no heating and needs a new roof (hopefully this summer) so would be sorted out properly then. Not sure what to do...flexible flue liner? A different way to connect the pipes? Is the metal chimney cowl causing problems?

Bass Reeves

A liner should sort it. Use glasd fibre wool to seal and vermiculite around the liner. You may need to seal the bottom of the flies with concrete board.

If the chimney is in the middle of the cottage and it is build of stone it may be taking up a lot of room in the cottage. You should remove it completely. You can install a new chimney using metal studs and concrete board. You can wrap the liner in a fiberglass sheet. This will take up way less room of a traditional chimney in the cottage

Car99

The world over wrote: »

Just looking for a small bit of advice. Just done a recent kitchen/living area extension and going to put in a solid fuel standalone stove with no back boiler. The all in one kitchen/living area room is quite large at 50 sq metres. Would anyone have any general advice or recommendations on what to buy.

I've got a 60sq m area kitchen/ living/ sunroom and for the last 13 years have a stanley Erin non boiler stove that's lit at about 5 every evening in the winter. Its burns a bag of smokeless stove coal in about 5 days ,one full scuttle an evening put in at 5 then dont have to look at it again and it's still has flue temp of 300deg at midnight. It's nearly too hot at that we leave all the doors in the room open to spread the heat around the house. Fantastic stove in my experience. I reseal it every couple of years and this year I rebuilt it fully new bricks, rope , bolts , fire cement, and a few other bits for €200. Still as good as new. I bought it second hand in 2008.

limnam

The world over wrote: »

Just looking for a small bit of advice. Just done a recent kitchen/living area extension and going to put in a solid fuel standalone stove with no back boiler. The all in one kitchen/living area room is quite large at 50 sq metres. Would anyone have any general advice or recommendations on what to buy.

Have you looked at soapstone stoves?

Would work well in that size of space

https://www.tulikivi.com/en

You basically heat the stone and stone gives out radiant heat for about 24 hours.

amber2

Vittu wrote: »

I use oven cleaner, spray and after 1 min every thing wipes off spotless.

A Used tea bag works a treat to clean stove glass.

Dempo1

amber2 wrote: »

A Used tea bag works a treat to clean stove glass.

I've seen that trick, I used to use Dr Muscle oven cleaner but found it quite caustic. Did a a quick Google search for ideas and discovered using a damp rag and some fresh ashes (small amounts) hey presto, job done and free. I normally do this when glass warm as opposed to hot.

pumpkinpie86

Bass Reeves wrote: »

A liner should sort it. Use glasd fibre wool to seal and vermiculite around the liner. You may need to seal the bottom of the flies with concrete board.

If the chimney is in the middle of the cottage and it is build of stone it may be taking up a lot of room in the cottage. You should remove it completely. You can install a new chimney using metal studs and concrete board. You can wrap the liner in a fiberglass sheet. This will take up way less room of a traditional chimney in the cottage

Thank you - got a couple of people giving me quotes to line it this week, decided it's best to get a professional in.

Yeah, it's a massive chimney breast really, debating taking it down when we get the new roof done.

The world over

Car99 wrote: »

I've got a 60sq m area kitchen/ living/ sunroom and for the last 13 years have a stanley Erin non boiler stove that's lit at about 5 every evening in the winter. Its burns a bag of smokeless stove coal in about 5 days ,one full scuttle an evening put in at 5 then dont have to look at it again and it's still has flue temp of 300deg at midnight. It's nearly too hot at that we leave all the doors in the room open to spread the heat around the house. Fantastic stove in my experience. I reseal it every couple of years and this year I rebuilt it fully new bricks, rope , bolts , fire cement, and a few other bits for €200. Still as good as new. I bought it second hand in 2008.

Thanks a mil for that Car99, Jez your getting savage wear from that stove. Have you any idea of it's k/w output? Also have you it sitting on the ground or is it sitting up a certain amount from the ground?

The world over

limnam wrote: »

Have you looked at soapstone stoves?

Would work well in that size of space

https://www.tulikivi.com/en

You basically heat the stone and stone gives out radiant heat for about 24 hours.

I'd never really come across those soapstone stoves. They look very good, lovely features. I will do some research on them. Thanks for the heads up.

Bass Reeves

The world over wrote: »

Thanks a mil for that Car99, Jez your getting savage wear from that stove. Have you any idea of it's k/w output? Also have you it sitting on the ground or is it sitting up a certain amount from the ground?

I put in a Stanley Eirn back in 1992. It lit every evening. It has a back boiler. It sends 28k btu( approx 8.5KW) to the boiler and 12k btu (4kw) to the room. I cut my own timber and use smokeless in it. This year I got nuggets( about 500 kgs) 200 euro and I cut 4 car trailers 1.9mX1.2m 300 mm butts on trailer. Trailer would be well full but not stacked as I have 10 miles to travel with a load. Timber is well dried but a mix of everything from leylandi type wood to ash sycamore and whitethorn. 50% is the leylandi type wood.

It is lit at a out 5pm most evening and is going to about midnight. We burn about 1000litres of oil every year. House is 2k sq feet dormer ,I subcontracted the house myself and put in a very high standard of insulation for the time. At a guess it was only when regs were changed in 2011/12 that the regs exceeded the standard Installed

Bass Reeves

The world over wrote: »

I'd never really come across those soapstone stoves. They look very good, lovely features. I will do some research on them. Thanks for the heads up.

The problems with technology like that is that it can be very expensive. It hard to beat a good straight stove for cheap heat. A friend is getting seasoned pine for 75 euro for a large ton bags collected. He usually collects two at the time. He traveles about 20 miles to collect.

The world over

Bass Reeves wrote: »

I put in a Stanley Eirn back in 1992. It lit every evening. It has a back boiler. It sends 28k btu( approx 8.5KW) to the boiler and 12k btu (4kw) to the room. I cut my own timber and use smokeless in it. This year I got nuggets( about 500 kgs) 200 euro and I cut 4 car trailers 1.9mX1.2m 300 mm butts on trailer. Trailer would be well full but not stacked as I have 10 miles to travel with a load. Timber is well dried but a mix of everything from leylandi type wood to ash sycamore and whitethorn. 50% is the leylandi type wood.

It is lit at a out 5pm most evening and is going to about midnight. We burn about 1000litres of oil every year. House is 2k sq feet dormer ,I subcontracted the house myself and put in a very high standard of insulation for the time. At a guess it was only when regs were changed in 2011/12 that the regs exceeded the standard Installed

Fair play Bass, good to get good feedback on the Erin stove. I have an oil boiler for the rest of the house but strongly thinking the just the solid fuel standalone stove for that living/kitchen room. I would have access to some timber too and then can go with the smokeless coal.

Car99

The world over wrote: »

Thanks a mil for that Car99, Jez your getting savage wear from that stove. Have you any idea of it's k/w output? Also have you it sitting on the ground or is it sitting up a certain amount from the ground?

14.7Kw , our is about 11 inches off the ground in an opening in the chimney breast just over 3ft wide and 5ft high giving about 2.5ft of exposed cast iron flue from top of stove. The flue itself gives out a fair bit of extra heat. I dont think stanley sell the cast iron flue extensions anymore but I could be wrong.

bog master

Boiler stove-Is it me, stove, system???

Having to use Blacksmith Bellows boiler stove as oil system kaput. Dual system, boiler outside with pump etc, stove with pipes into hot press, stat on pipe and stat on immersion and 2 motorized valves.

Using smokeless ovoids, light fire w kindling and few ovids, 30 minutes a decent fire then add 2 shovelfuls on. Start to get a decent bed of glowing coals by 60 minutes. 2- 2.5 hours later, another few shovels after a good bit of gurgling and hearing the water in the boiler heating up, rads heat up say the top 3 inches for 10 minutes then tepid to cool. Only after another 2 hours will I start to get the whole rad heating for awhile. At 4 plus hours start to get rads reasonably hot for 15-20 minutes. Is this normal? Its costing me a fortune, using 3 40kg bags a week and certainly not toasty!!!

The world over

Car99 wrote: »

14.7Kw , our is about 11 inches off the ground in an opening in the chimney breast just over 3ft wide and 5ft high giving about 2.5ft of exposed cast iron flue from top of stove. The flue itself gives out a fair bit of extra heat. I dont think stanley sell the cast iron flue extensions anymore but I could be wrong.

Thanks for that Car99, great insight.

Widescreen

We had a stove installed just over 8 years ago by reputable local company.
Working perfect all along. It is a Henley Insert stove which was fitted in existing fireplace.

About a month ago just by chance I noticed what looks like a burn mark on the chimney breast (external chimney)running up side of house. Around the centre of the burn mark the pebble dash feels hollow when you tap it and there are two hairline cracks in the dash.

I got company to call, they cleaned the chimney which wasn't dirty and pushed a camera up. Said there was small crack possibly in flue but not major damage.

Investigated further and was advised that due to the installation methods back then foam had been used around the pipe exiting the stove and what appeared to be happening now is that soot collects around the pipe and can then ignite and cause a fire. He believes that is what happened in my case.Thus the burn mark.

So that explains I think that every time I get my chimney cleaned the guy says the chimney wasn't that dirty!

I was told the fire would keep repeating when sufficient build up of soot happens again.

Obviously I would like to get it sorted.

Firstly, does anyone know if my chimney could be swept with a fitting that would be suitable to sweep that extra soot that accumulates?

If that isn't an option can anyone recommend someone to rectify my issue, i.e. fit a liner and re install the stove properly to conform with the current regulations. Thanks

Car99

Widescreen wrote: »

We had a stove installed just over 8 years ago by reputable local company.
Working perfect all along. It is a Henley Insert stove which was fitted in existing fireplace.

About a month ago just by chance I noticed what looks like a burn mark on the chimney breast (external chimney)running up side of house. Around the centre of the burn mark the pebble dash feels hollow when you tap it and there are two hairline cracks in the dash.

I got company to call, they cleaned the chimney which wasn't dirty and pushed a camera up. Said there was small crack possibly in flue but not major damage.

Investigated further and was advised that due to the installation methods back then foam had been used around the pipe exiting the stove and what appeared to be happening now is that soot collects around the pipe and can then ignite and cause a fire. He believes that is what happened in my case.Thus the burn mark.

So that explains I think that every time I get my chimney cleaned the guy says the chimney wasn't that dirty!

I was told the fire would keep repeating when sufficient build up of soot happens again.

Obviously I would like to get it sorted.

Firstly, does anyone know if my chimney could be swept with a fitting that would be suitable to sweep that extra soot that accumulates?

If that isn't an option can anyone recommend someone to rectify my issue, i.e. fit a liner and re install the stove properly to conform with the current regulations. Thanks

How far from the ground in the burn mark?