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1967 VW Variant.

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Comments

  • #212
    kadman
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Consider it done...


  • #213
    kadman
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Fratello wrote: »
    Are those hubcaps hard to find? They seem to be the type with the raised centre.

    Hard to find in good condition. New old stock would be expensive.

    And new repro caps would be crap,

    But I might have some;)


  • #214
    ohnonotgmail
    Registered Users Posts: 40,122 ✭✭✭✭ohnonotgmail


    is it just my imagination but is it what you would imagine a 911 estate from that era would look like. assuming one were to be made. it is the headlights and bonnet that are making me think that.


  • #215
    Jeff2
    Registered Users Posts: 6,980 ✭✭✭Jeff2


    How will you get rid of rust.

    Sandblasting. ?


  • #216
    kadman
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Jeff2 wrote: »
    How will you get rid of rust.

    Sandblasting. ?

    What rust??

    You must be confusing this with some other car


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  • #217
    kadman
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    On the surface rust issue.

    Thats easily dealt with by a number of methods. Chemical stripping, mechanical stripping

    or blasting. Not sandblasting, it does too much damage. Media blasting.

    I made a few preliminary enquiries on the media blasting. I was quoted 100 euro a panel.

    2 doors , 2 boot lids, 4 wings. 800 euro total. Media blast machine is 1800 euro. I dont know what the hire

    rate would be. DIY option is DA sander and the appropriate discs for all the panels. I have plenty of time,

    as I am basically forcibly retired. Who wants to employ me at 65 years of age. Nobody only the missus,

    and the wages are miserable:D:D


    and she is a tough boss to work for :eek::P:P


  • #218
    kadman
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Before i get stuck into the variant in a big way, I have some small issues with my own fastback.

    So I need to clear the decks on that first. I dont really want 2 cars on the go at the same time.

    My drivers door on the fastback basically had no bottom rail, it was completely rusted out.

    So these not being available, I had to make a new one. At the time the body was not completed , so I had to make and fit this on the
    fly , so to speak.

    Consequently the bottom corner of the door flicks out for about 10 mm, about 200m horizontally along the bottom rail.

    Solution is to partially cut the new bottom rail, realign, and re weld.

    As it is a type 3 as well, if you want me to post details and pics , I can. Or leave this thread to 67 Variant.

    Your call chaps.


  • #219
    jozi
    Registered Users Posts: 5,391 ✭✭✭jozi


    I've had good success with bilthamber detox gel. You apply the gel and let it do it's thing, I used to cover with cling film to prevent it from drying out over a few days. Rinse off to reveal nice shiny fresh metal.

    A tub of it is 20e or less and covers quite a bit. I did typically run a wire wheel over the surface rust first to lift most of it and then apply the gel.

    Great thread, was following the other thread and now this one. Fantastic to see it's in good hands and phenomenal pace! I wish I had the dedication and drive like you to finish my own resto (E30 BMW).


  • #220
    LollipopJimmy
    Registered Users Posts: 5,429 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    I'm a daily lurker - amazing work by all involved.

    On the threads it is ultimately your call Kadman, however I would love to see separate threads so I don't get confused as to what work is being done on which car


  • #221
    murfman53
    Registered Users Posts: 34 ✭murfman53


    kadman wrote: »
    Just got a heads up from an observant viewer to the last vid, that the left brakelight does in fact work:D

    Now that John spotted that, he can fix the one that does not work:P




    At One and Sixpence................. you'll have to do better than that.

    And remember, I can only do the job on a Saturday afternoon......... Double Bubble, Tax free, Cash in hand. (Luvly Jubbly).
    John.


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  • #222
    kadman
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    jozi wrote: »
    I've had good success with bilthamber detox gel. You apply the gel and let it do it's thing, I used to cover with cling film to prevent it from drying out over a few days. Rinse off to reveal nice shiny fresh metal.

    A tub of it is 20e or less and covers quite a bit. I did typically run a wire wheel over the surface rust first to lift most of it and then apply the gel.

    Great thread, was following the other thread and now this one. Fantastic to see it's in good hands and phenomenal pace! I wish I had the dedication and drive like you to finish my own resto (E30 BMW).


    Bilthamber has great reviews alright, but I have never used it.
    For rust treatment I have used Vertan, Vactan and jenolite.

    I found the jenolite has the same qualities as bilthamber. I too wire wheel off the loose rust, and then jenolite gel on the rust. Rinse and repeat if necessary.

    Not so much dedication, but loads and loads of time at my disposal:)


  • #223
    kadman
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    murfman53 wrote: »
    At One and Sixpence................. you'll have to do better than that.

    And remember, I can only do the job on a Saturday afternoon......... Double Bubble, Tax free, Cash in hand. (Luvly Jubbly).
    John.

    If you shape up and punch in the hours, you might get 2 bob:D


  • #224
    kadman
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    There is already a thread covering some work I have done on the Fastback,

    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=112241451

    Perhaps I should keep putting any more white fastback pics there.:)


  • #225
    thereitisgone
    Registered Users Posts: 427 ✭✭thereitisgone


    I think keep it all here, easier to follow if its in one post
    Great work by the way


  • #226
    Tow
    Registered Users Posts: 6,391 ✭✭✭Tow


    kadman wrote: »
    Perhaps I should keep putting any more white fastback pics there.:)

    With a few more VW repair videos you will be able to rival Mustie1: https://www.youtube.com/c/mustie1/playlists ;)

    When is the money (including lost growth) Michael Noonan took in the Pension Levy going to be paid back?



  • #227
    kadman
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Tow wrote: »
    With a few more VW repair videos you will be able to rival Mustie1: https://www.youtube.com/c/mustie1/playlists ;)

    Yeah....he got lessons from me....:P:P:P:P:P


  • #228
    jozi
    Registered Users Posts: 5,391 ✭✭✭jozi


    kadman wrote: »
    Bilthamber has great reviews alright, but I have never used it.
    For rust treatment I have used Vertan, Vactan and jenolite.

    I found the jenolite has the same qualities as bilthamber. I too wire wheel off the loose rust, and then jenolite gel on the rust. Rinse and repeat if necessary.

    Not so much dedication, but loads and loads of time at my disposal:)

    That sounds like it's similar. It's been years since I looked into the various options when I went with bilthamber gel.

    I never liked the idea of those rust converters which leave the converted rust on the panel. To me it seems like there's potential for it not to penetrate enough and leave rust. I like how the rust dissolves and washed away with bilthamber.


  • #229
    kadman
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    jozi wrote: »
    That sounds like it's similar. It's been years since I looked into the various options when I went with bilthamber gel.

    I never liked the idea of those rust converters which leave the converted rust on the panel. To me it seems like there's potential for it not to penetrate enough and leave rust. I like how the rust dissolves and washed away with bilthamber.

    I agree, the only way to deal with rust, is chemically remove it down to shiny metal. Or cut it out and replace with shiny new metal.:)


  • #230
    kadman
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Is bilthamber available nation wide?

    I must get some, and compare it to Jenolite


  • #231
    kadman
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    I spent the day on repairing the door of my white fastback. It was rotten on the bottom
    part of the door, both the door skin and door frame bottom.
    Beetle door bottoms are readily available, but type 3 are not.

    Only hope is a good door which is also rare, or a bottom cut from a good door.
    Or make your own door bottom, which is what I did, and welded it on, when
    I was doing repairs on the fly, and it did not work well. The door corner ws flicking out.

    So I had to make vertical door pattern templates, and bottom templates from the good passenger door.
    So I had something to work to. I was then able to discover that I had to take a 15mm wedge cut out
    of the bottom face of the new panel I made, and reweld it to suit.

    Here are the template pictures,

    Dzb53Xz.jpg

    eiSQcox.jpg

    Here you can see the bottom flicked out

    n1Jsx8G.jpg

    And existing weld that has to be cut, spaced and rewelded,

    FKvoLrz.jpg

    And the cut

    95CpBHx.jpg

    Moved in and rewelded

    xOYUoaU.jpg

    Here is when it was tacked, and you can see how far in the bottom left hand edge is.
    This is why a wedge needs to be cut, to allow this edge go back towards the door panel

    5UHWbDV.jpg

    Here is the door bottom marked for the cut,

    sxtpPdt.jpg

    Cut done

    vp9Cblp.jpg

    Bottom now repositioned , welded and ground,

    s7LYN1k.jpg

    Just have to infil corners ect.
    Glad this is done.


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  • #232
    jozi
    Registered Users Posts: 5,391 ✭✭✭jozi


    kadman wrote: »
    Is bilthamber available nation wide?

    I must get some, and compare it to Jenolite

    I see it available from some detailing shops but I can't recommend any from personal experience. Opieoils do it, I've ordered from the bolt hamber sure to but that's many years ago.


  • #233
    kadman
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    jozi wrote: »
    I see it available from some detailing shops but I can't recommend any from personal experience. Opieoils do it, I've ordered from the bolt hamber sure to but that's many years ago.

    This is jenolite after 3 minutes 1/2 spoonful and tooth brush.

    -Hs2BmlT.jpg

    This is it after 10 minutes and wipe off with scotchbrite pad.

    jSX0KhF.jpg

    fkLwzCT.jpg


  • #234
    kadman
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    After 12 hours with the jenolite, we have this,

    2tgTup1.jpg

    And a drop of water and scotchbrite, and we have this now,

    oOXAlLj.jpg

    Not too bad, but any pin craters will have to be properly cleaned,

    possibly a wire fine brush, but I can experiment with that when we get that far.

    Media blasting the panels would do it, but I would still have the same hurdle with

    the roof, as I wont be entirely stripping the shell.

    Small problem, that will be solved fear not:)


  • #235
    welder
    Registered Users Posts: 191 ✭✭welder


    jozi wrote: »
    I see it available from some detailing shops but I can't recommend any from personal experience. Opieoils do it, I've ordered from the bolt hamber sure to but that's many years ago.

    Reflect have a limited range of it, have bought from them often and find them great to deal with.

    https://www.reflectautocare.ie/index.php?route=product/search&search=bilt

    Tow and restore have more on their website but I've never used them.

    Bought BH UB from Opieoils recently and it arrived to ParcelMotel very quickly. Went for the brush on this time and it goes further than the aerosol !

    No connection to any of the above apart from a satisfied customer of 2 of them !


  • #236
    kadman
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    This is the corner of the white fastback door that I am working on today.

    HCkpYjc.jpg

    And the bottom corner,

    62pFR3o.jpg

    And the cardboard template for the corner

    hAWStLl.jpg

    And these are the tools for hammer forming the little infil piece,

    XVbH8UD.jpg

    Test fit for infill piece

    F9JTlKI.jpg

    Welded in and ground down,

    X6UiR9V.jpg

    DyaI1GU.jpg

    Now onto the next corner, and all the other little bits and bobs on this door.


  • #237
    kadman
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    To the hinge area of the same door now.

    Here you can see a large repair thats needed.

    PRVbRD3.jpg

    Here you can see in better details the large amount of filler thats been
    shoved in here.

    E7lYp8V.jpg

    Look carefully here and you can see a ball of masking tape shoved into the
    hole to support the filler.Horrible repair

    0MW4xx8.jpg

    Same procedure for this type of repair. Cardboard template to get a rough size
    of the repair metal needed.

    Q8bvaQ8.jpg

    Rough shape of the required piece needed.

    5Tcf1vf.jpg

    And piece formed, just needs welding in. This will be a 2 piece repair here.



    Hammer formed inner piece.

    FwbFGuv.jpg

    Complete repair will be posted tomorrow.



    Thanks for checking in.


  • #238
    JabbaTheHut
    Registered Users Posts: 1,211 ✭✭✭JabbaTheHut


    That's some metalwork, Kadman. Fair play to you. I hate rust repair. It's really time consuming and requires a good deal of patience, something I lack quiet regularly.


  • #239
    kadman
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    JabbaTheHut wrote: »
    That's some metalwork, Kadman. Fair play to you. I hate rust repair. It's really time consuming and requires a good deal of patience, something I lack quiet regularly.


    Small bits are very awkward alright. But it has to be done, as good doors are hard to get for these type 3's. So some sort of repair is needed.

    This door in particular is in a rough state, and its been well patched up with filler and masking tape. And this probably takes longer than a fabbing a bit of metal.

    It will be strong and respectable looking when I am done, and thats as much as i can get from this door.

    The 67 Squareback door is in great order in comparison to the white one. They need a small bit of work, but nothing like whats going on here.

    But I'll keep tipping away, until the jobs done.:)


  • #240
    kadman
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    I managed to find a good source for car body resto products.

    And he seems to stock a all the Eastwood products as seen on youtube.

    I bought a gallon of top industrial standard stripper for the variant. This might be an option
    instead of 100 euro a panel to media blast it.Probably take a few gallon too.

    So I will check that out over the next couple of weeks, and see how that fairs out.


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  • #241
    kadman
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Moving on with the white fastback door repair before I get stuck in to the 67 Variant.

    More nasty filler, where there should have been metal,here is a lorry load of it

    AnQbR6q.jpg

    Second filler piece

    6Wq8oD0.jpg

    Filler piece tacked in.

    Bx9uwfG.jpg


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