paulireland wrote: »

Just a thought-do you need a separate ammo safe as well as a gun safe.Saw something about new EU regulations

I bought a small safe out of woodies or somewhere, less than 50 sheets, its as good as you need unless you are storing cartridges by the ten thousand.

Hi OP, why Miroku if I may ask? Miroku are Browning really. Miroku actually make all of Brownings guns in Japan for Browning and then some of the higher grade Brownings are sent to Browning in Belgium for hand finishing but a new 525 Sporter One is essentially a new MK38. Both newer models are multichoke. Browning comes in a case and the Miroku comes in a cardboard box. Miroku are beautiful guns as are Browning, but functionality wise they are the same really.

As you move up the models of Browning you will find a comparable Miroku model. You will find it much much easier to find and buy a new Browning in the South compared to a Miroku. You may even have to import a Miroku because I dont really know any Miroku dealers. My club is in Leinster and Ardee Sports Company is where I buy alot of my guns/kit. They are a Browning stockist but they dont sell Miroku.

I bought a new 525 Sporter One this year from Ardee and I have the brochure in the house. In the Browning brochure there is a 2 page section for Miroku. Further shows just how in bed Browning are with Miroku. Outside of the name, you are buying the same guns.

One thing I do like about Miroku is they do a Teague Choke version and their guns are marginally cheaper than Browning.

I have a 525 about 15/16 years. Shoots well for me and I do a bit I’ve everything. The only thing is with the 525/Miroku the pins will need replacing sooner or later, aside from that the actions are bombproof.
As for the difference between browning and miroku .. well they’re both Miroku. Browning is only a brand name,the Belgian guns are a bit different In design. There is also a browning fishing brand and that stuff is not very good at all.

How much ?
Just out of nosiness ..

Not bad
Pity about import fees

paulireland wrote: »

Under €1900

Thats not bad Paul. Are you getting a left hand one?

paulireland wrote: »

They dont do left hand in Europe

Thats lunacy, discrimination to 10% of the population. Really surprised to hear that.

paulireland wrote: »

Sorry is it the other way around

Yes, it goes from centre to right normally.

It's not difficult to use your left hand, it just needs a slight repositioning of the hand position which isn't required for a right hand user.

Rosahane wrote: »

Enjoy, and best of luck with it. Come up to Hilltop some Weds evening and put it through its paces.

How much is Pat charging for a round of clays ?

paulireland wrote: »

Hi all
Some practical questions on cleaning and storage
Is WD40 good for cleaning the bores as its less aggressive than some solvents
Do you store the gun dis assembled in the safe
If assembled is it best to store it barrel down
Any thoughts from you experienced chaps

I wouldn't use WD40 as it's not a lubricant and attracts dust. Better to get a dedicated firearms cleaner. I like the CLP (Cleans, Lubricates, Protects) types such as Breakfree CLP, MPro7 or Brunox.

Important not to touch the metal parts of the gun after cleaning as the acid in your fingers can cause a rust mark - hold with a cloth when putting away.

Use a smear of decent grease on the hinge pins.

After use I run a bore snake through the barrels and wipe over with a mildly oily rag as I put the gun in the case. I usually do a full clean later and definitely before storing for a period.

The reason for storing barrel down is to stop excess oil seeping into the woodwork. Don't leave excess oil on the gun!

Lastly, it's probably better to store the gun in its case as safes have a nasty habit of hitting nice wooden stocks and marking them

paulireland wrote: »

Thats OK snippy
Miroku come in a cardboard box so looks like assembled then:):)

You can get aftermarket cases ranging from plastic ones with eggbox foam through aluminium with cut out foam to nice ones like this:https://fineshootingaccessories.com/product/leather-shotgun-case/

Couple of answers for you Paul:

1) Buy a proper Bore/Barrel cleaner, oil based nitro solvent is good. You need a good bore cleaner to remove gun powder, plastic etc from the bore after EVERY shoot.
2) Buy a good gun oil, liquid or spray is fine but i have a little zip bag with a soaked oil rag that I wipe the gun down with after cleaning.
3) Buy a good gun grease, this is very important. After each clean and before you store the gun, put the grease onto all of the moving parts and parts where metal rubs metal, like the hing pin, ejectors etc.
4) Optional to buy a walnut oil for treating the stock and fore-end. I use this when the wood gets wet.
5) Dont forget to clean the chokes and use a good choke grease when inserting them back into your barrels. You will be fine with 1/4 and 1/2 for 99% of all clay shoots.
6) Buy a barrel cleaning kit, with sticks etc. You need to run these through your barrels with the barrel cleaner, and then push kitchen roll through after to remove the gunk.
7) Store the gun assembled when cleaned in the gun safe with the recoil pad on the ground.
8) Snap caps are optional on today firearms, (i use them) but DONT buy the plastic crappy ones. Leave them in the gun when it is stored away.
9) Buy a decent Skeet Vest.
10) Buy a gun slip for transportation and make sure you have a trigger guard on the gun at all times when it is not in use. You will also need a lockable box separate to the gun for your cartridges. (ONLY during transportation of cartridges)

You have been given the trust to own and use a firearm, best to do things right