Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

1179180182184185200

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 747 ✭✭✭Forge83


    GY A1 wrote: »
    You buy the stove €
    Flexi flue and fittings €350
    A half day - full day work for an installer
    Max = €300
    That’s provided fits in existing fireplace and no major alterations required.

    I put boiler stove in recently
    Insert boiler stove €850
    Flexi flue kit € fittings €350
    New dual cylinder €250
    Plumbing parts & pipe €400
    Plumber 3 days € tbc
    But prob 450
    Also required some tidy up and plasterboard
    And plasterer also €200

    I think you are in for a surprise with your labour costs.
    Stove and liner Install from a qualified installer will cost somewhere between €450-€650. Maybe even more depending on where you are located.

    3 days plumbing labour for €450.... must be the cheapest plumber in the country! PM me his number, I will use him every week at those rates.
    Would be expecting to pay a qualified plumber a minimum of €30 per hour. More if he has a labourer with him.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,404 ✭✭✭✭vicwatson


    GY A1 wrote: »
    You buy the stove €
    Flexi flue and fittings €350
    A half day - full day work for an installer
    Max = €300
    That’s provided fits in existing fireplace and no major alterations required.

    I put boiler stove in recently
    Insert boiler stove €850
    Flexi flue kit € fittings €350
    New dual cylinder €250
    Plumbing parts & pipe €400
    Plumber 3 days € tbc
    But prob 450
    Also required some tidy up and plasterboard
    And plasterer also €200

    The one I was talking about is not a back boiler stove, but a multi fuel insert stove


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 832 ✭✭✭harvester of sorrow


    Will house insurance cover you if your stove has been fitted without a flexi Liner?
    I'm hearing alot of conflicting arguments....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 703 ✭✭✭PaddyCar


    Anyone happen to know the make/model of the stove in attached pic?? Moved into new house and can't locate a badge anywhere on the stove. The controls aren't working properly so looking to source spares. Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 747 ✭✭✭Forge83


    PaddyCar wrote: »
    Anyone happen to know the make/model of the stove in attached pic?? Moved into new house and can't locate a badge anywhere on the stove. The controls aren't working properly so looking to source spares. Thanks

    Looks like a Saey. Really really old model so parts will be very hard to find.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 747 ✭✭✭Forge83


    Will house insurance cover you if your stove has been fitted without a flexi Liner?
    I'm hearing alot of conflicting arguments....

    If the tradesmen says it needs a liner and you don’t install a liner, then yes it’s possible a claim against a chimney fire in the future could be void.

    If the tradesmen says the chimney is in good condition and doesn’t require a liner, then no.

    In short, it’s the professionals decision, not yours.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 820 ✭✭✭Triboro


    vicwatson wrote: »
    Anyone got a ballpark figure to have insert stove fitted with flexi liner, two storey house with cowling, etc etc?

    Had a new henly insert fitted recently with new fireplace surround,hearth and granite back.
    Fitters supplied 9m flue liner kit,vermiculite(?)insulation around it and 2 new rain cowls on chimney.
    Plastered around new fireplace and made good.
    2 men for 4 hours.
    €1000
    Happy with that for job done right and those flue kits are dear!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,579 ✭✭✭Mickiemcfist


    Triboro wrote: »
    Had a new henly insert fitted recently with new fireplace surround,hearth and granite back.
    Fitters supplied 9m flue liner kit,vermiculite insulation around it and 2 new rain cowls on chimney.
    Plastered around new fireplace and made good
    2 men for 4 hours.
    €1000
    Happy with that for job done right and those flue kits are dear!

    That sounds good, where was that? If in Dublin would you mind PM'ing their details? Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 820 ✭✭✭Triboro


    That sounds good, where was that? If in Dublin would you mind PM'ing their details? Thanks

    Tipp


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 856 ✭✭✭rebeve


    I had a Henley Opollo 5kw insert fitted abt 3 years ago , Center section of grate is badly warped . Would that be normal for that type of boiler .


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,821 ✭✭✭dzilla


    When using the peat briquettes in the stove do ye use the primary or secondary air draught for controlling the flame? Should I treat them like coal or wood ?


  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,761 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    dzilla wrote: »
    When using the peat briquettes in the stove do ye use the primary or secondary air draught for controlling the flame? Should I treat them like coal or wood ?

    I would have thought coal(so you want the air coming from below.)

    I could be wrong though.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,137 ✭✭✭adocholiday


    Hi all, I have an 8kw bilberry stove and have some questions.

    Firstly it's multi-fuel and I burn a mixture of pine logs, briquettes and smokeless coal. I have no bother getting a fire going in it but the heat it outputs can vary a lot. There are 3 controls on it: a top switch for regulating heat which I keep fully open at all times, a rotating steel plate that regulates the air coming in which I leave open fully until the fire is burning well then close almost all the way to maintain the fire. The third I'm not sure about and have no manual to reference. It's a bar at the base of the unit that can be pushed in or pulled out but no matter what it doesn't appear to impact the fire or the heat output. It's not the lever that moves the grate to drop the ashes. Anyone have any idea what that might be and if it might affect the heat output?

    The other thing is I've read about cleaning creosote from the flue at the stove level on a regular basis but the installer set my stove into the fireplace and bricked it up so I can't actually access the flue at the stove level. Is this something that he shouldn't have done? Or is there access to this from inside the stove itself? Cheers


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,968 ✭✭✭blindside88


    Hi all, I have an 8kw bilberry stove and have some questions.

    Firstly it's multi-fuel and I burn a mixture of pine logs, briquettes and smokeless coal. I have no bother getting a fire going in it but the heat it outputs can vary a lot. There are 3 controls on it: a top switch for regulating heat which I keep fully open at all times, a rotating steel plate that regulates the air coming in which I leave open fully until the fire is burning well then close almost all the way to maintain the fire. The third I'm not sure about and have no manual to reference. It's a bar at the base of the unit that can be pushed in or pulled out but no matter what it doesn't appear to impact the fire or the heat output. It's not the lever that moves the grate to drop the ashes. Anyone have any idea what that might be and if it might affect the heat output?

    The other thing is I've read about cleaning creosote from the flue at the stove level on a regular basis but the installer set my stove into the fireplace and bricked it up so I can't actually access the flue at the stove level. Is this something that he shouldn't have done? Or is there access to this from inside the stove itself? Cheers

    I’m a novice but might be able to help you out a little but someone else will probably be along with better info. Is the third control to keep the glass clear? If you close this off does the stove glass blacken up?

    In relation to reaching the flue from stove level, you can remove the bricks inside the stove to access the flue, just remember the order in which you took them out so as that you can get them back in correctly


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 708 ✭✭✭mrtom


    Smoking issue with stove
    I have a Fireline FX 5W stove that smokes when I open it to refuel. The chimney is fully lined and is cleaned twice a year yet the issue persists. The baffle is correctly fitted & I have fitted a spinning cowl, yet no difference.


    I have attached a pdf manual with full schematics of this hi efficient stove with its primary, secondary and tertiary air controls for the experts here that understand such.
    Also a dropbox link to a short video showing the problem. Here you can see that despite a strong draught it still smokes.


    I welcome any ideas out there that would help !

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/4td09aw4epo237b/stove%20smoking%20.mp4?dl=0


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 747 ✭✭✭Forge83


    mrtom wrote: »
    Smoking issue with stove
    I have a Fireline FX 5W stove that smokes when I open it to refuel. The chimney is fully lined and is cleaned twice a year yet the issue persists. The baffle is correctly fitted & I have fitted a spinning cowl, yet no difference.


    I have attached a pdf manual with full schematics of this hi efficient stove with its primary, secondary and tertiary air controls for the experts here that understand such.
    Also a dropbox link to a short video showing the problem. Here you can see that despite a strong draught it still smokes.


    I welcome any ideas out there that would help !

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/4td09aw4epo237b/stove%20smoking%20.mp4?dl=0

    Could it be lack of ventilation in the house?
    Have you a wall vent in the room?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 708 ✭✭✭mrtom


    Forge83 wrote: »
    Could it be lack of ventilation in the house?
    Have you a wall vent in the room?


    yes, issue also with windows open, good point though notice strong draught at air intake on the video clip.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 747 ✭✭✭Forge83


    mrtom wrote: »
    yes, issue also with windows open, good point though notice strong draught at air intake on the video clip.

    Windows open will not help as they can pull more air out than in.
    Technically the room has to have a permanent open air vent in the room.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,760 ✭✭✭✭Muahahaha


    Wondering what is best to use to clean ash from the interior firebricks of a stove, is there some sort of brush that is best to use or just any kind of wire brush


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 747 ✭✭✭Forge83


    Muahahaha wrote: »
    Wondering what is best to use to clean ash from the interior firebricks of a stove, is there some sort of brush that is best to use or just any kind of wire brush

    Don’t use a wire brush as you will damage the bricks.
    A normal fireside brush is all that should be used.
    Another alternative would be an Ash Vacuum.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 87 ✭✭t8010789


    I’m interested in putting a wood burning stove into my front room. The house is a 1950s semi d and we have recently finished modernising it with wet underfloor heating, windows, electrics and internal insulation. The house is not airtight but it’s far better than when we bought it. I have seen stoves with full or partial external air, would this sound like a safer/better option? It would require a bit of work to get a pipe to the external wall but doable, I also think the chimney will need to be relined.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 605 ✭✭✭upupup


    mrtom wrote: »
    yes, issue also with windows open, good point though notice strong draught at air intake on the video clip.

    You have a very good draught.
    There is info in the pdf about the tertiary air system which requires a seal to be removed when burning wood.When burning smokeless coal the seal needs to go back in.I dont know anything about this tertiarty system but its worth checking out.
    Have you tried burning smokeless coal?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 87 ✭✭t8010789


    t8010789 wrote: »
    I’m interested in putting a wood burning stove into my front room. The house is a 1950s semi d and we have recently finished modernising it with wet underfloor heating, windows, electrics and internal insulation. The house is not airtight but it’s far better than when we bought it. I have seen stoves with full or partial external air, would this sound like a safer/better option? It would require a bit of work to get a pipe to the external wall but doable, I also think the chimney will need to be relined.

    Photos attached


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,760 ✭✭✭✭Muahahaha


    Forge83 wrote: »
    Don’t use a wire brush as you will damage the bricks.
    A normal fireside brush is all that should be used.
    Another alternative would be an Ash Vacuum.

    Thanks Forge. Had looked at ash vacuums but they all seem to be pretty big units that I dont have the storage space for. Hopefully something smaller comes on the market at some stage. A friend used their normal vacuum last year and completely knackered it by hoovering up ash, doh!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 708 ✭✭✭mrtom


    upupup wrote: »
    You have a very good draught.
    There is info in the pdf about the tertiary air system which requires a seal to be removed when burning wood.When burning smokeless coal the seal needs to go back in.I dont know anything about this tertiarty system but its worth checking out.
    Have you tried burning smokeless coal?


    I do use smokless Ovoids, the tertiary air system "injects" air down into the fire from the back to ignite the unburnt gasses.

    At this point I'm beginning to suspect the issue is the design of the stove. The "door" being the entire front of the unit. I contacted the UK company that supply the Irish market and they suggested I use the top exhaust rather than the rear exhaust which in my case would be too destructive for my fireplace.
    I'v had "qualified" engineers look at it with various suggestions about low pressure zones, spinning cowls & raising the chimney however when they measured the draught with specialized vacuum tools and find the draught is strong (which negates these solutions), they are stumped!

    I was hoping this forum may have something to add.

    Thanks for taking the time to read the pdf upupup!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,062 ✭✭✭Uriel.


    mrtom wrote: »
    I do use smokless Ovoids, the tertiary air system "injects" air down into the fire from the back to ignite the unburnt gasses.

    At this point I'm beginning to suspect the issue is the design of the stove. The "door" being the entire front of the unit. I contacted the UK company that supply the Irish market and they suggested I use the top exhaust rather than the rear exhaust which in my case would be too destructive for my fireplace.
    I'v had "qualified" engineers look at it with various suggestions about low pressure zones, spinning cowls & raising the chimney however when they measured the draught with specialized vacuum tools and find the draught is strong (which negates these solutions), they are stumped!

    I was hoping this forum may have something to add.

    Thanks for taking the time to read the pdf upupup!

    I've same issue with my Riva 55
    The installers called out 3 times to look at it, fitted a chimney/flu extension. Huge draw in it when grate open fully, like it's about to take off and yet every time you open the door to refuel you get a waft of smoke back into the room. Whether windows or opened or not. The experts are completely stumped and tried a number of things. Unfortunately we just have to live with it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 687 ✭✭✭steamsey


    Hi - just checking if anyone has experience with a Heat Design Vitae 6kw? Hadn't heard of the brand before.

    Also in terms of fitting costs - I'm being quoted (ex VAT) - 530 liner (2 storey house), 170 building materials and parts, 600 labour. In greater Dublin area. Sound OK? Standard fireplace opening.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 747 ✭✭✭Forge83


    steamsey wrote: »
    Hi - just checking if anyone has experience with a Heat Design Vitae 6kw? Hadn't heard of the brand before.

    Also in terms of fitting costs - I'm being quoted (ex VAT) - 530 liner (2 storey house), 170 building materials and parts, 600 labour. In greater Dublin area. Sound OK? Standard fireplace opening.

    One of the best selling stoves in the country.
    Standard 2 storey with ladder access?
    Is the Flexi 316 grade or 904 grade?
    Labour cost is reasonable for Dublin.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 687 ✭✭✭steamsey


    Forge83 wrote: »
    One of the best selling stoves in the country.
    Standard 2 storey with ladder access?
    Is the Flexi 316 grade or 904 grade?
    Labour cost is reasonable for Dublin.

    Standard 2 storey, good ladder access. No idea about the flexi, which should I be asking for?

    Thanks


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 747 ✭✭✭Forge83


    steamsey wrote: »
    Standard 2 storey, good ladder access. No idea about the flexi, which should I be asking for?

    Thanks

    Ok. So I would assume the cost doesn’t include a hoist if good ladder access.
    If the Flexi price is for 904 grade it’s about right. If it’s for 316 grade it’s very expensive. Should only cost around €380-€450, especially if other fitting materials are included in the €170 for building materials.

    But as I said, he could have charged you less for materials and asked for €800-€900 for installation and still been fair for a Dublin installation. So overall it’s about right.


Advertisement