Labour Saving and General Guntering

patsy_mccabe · 22-05-2019 5:24pm

Isn't this clever;

https://www.donedeal.ie/fertiliserspreaders-for-sale/post-driver/21486195?campaign=3

renandstimpy · 29-05-2019 8:09pm

From this unused gas cage ..

To this.... anyone fancy a guess for its next use ...

Say my name · 29-05-2019 9:16pm

A frame to put a half ton bag of fertilizer on and back your spreader underneath.

renandstimpy · 29-05-2019 9:24pm

Yup ... didn't have any girder suitable to hang one from and didn't really appeal to me . so this is best option for me .. â‚¬100 for cage and a bit of time cutting and welding .

patsy_mccabe · 03-06-2019 1:20pm

Changed the diesel filters on my old David Brown today. Now, there are 2 flat rubber seals and 2 o-rings. The top o-ring sits under the very top of the head of the bolt that holds on the filter. I have never changed this o-ring as either the engine exhaust manifold or the filter housing has to come off. I thought it was time to replace it.
Rather than risking a leaking connection, I tried to take off the engine manifold. Got 5 nuts off, all that I could see, and no way would it budge. Onto the internet and did a search under engine manifold removal. Nothing on tractors, but on a mechanics chatroom, one guy suggested to double check all nuts were off as some can be well hidden. Low and behold, 2 more nuts hidden in behind. Off with the first but the last could not be taken off without ........removing the diesel filter housing.:mad:
Back to plan B - off with the filter housing. Only had to open one diesel pipe connection and little enough bother after that. God the old o-rings were as flat as pancakes. Amazing they never leaked. Could be in there over 15 years.

Now, the question I have is - of the 2 smaller o-rings, which one should I have used. I used the smaller of the 2, but it had to be rolled up the bolt.

Muckit · 03-06-2019 2:14pm

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Changed the diesel filters on my old David Brown today. Now, there are 2 flat rubber seals and 2 o-rings. The top o-ring sits under the very top of the head of the bolt that holds on the filter. I have never changed this o-ring as either the engine exhaust manifold or the filter housing has to come off. I thought it was time to replace it.
Rather than risking a leaking connection, I tried to take off the engine manifold. Got 5 nuts off, all that I could see, and no way would it budge. Onto the internet and did a search under engine manifold removal. Nothing on tractors, but on a mechanics chatroom, one guy suggested to double check all nuts were off as some can be well hidden. Low and behold, 2 more nuts hidden in behind. Off with the first but the last could not be taken off without ........removing the diesel filter housing.:mad:
Back to plan B - off with the filter housing. Only had to open one diesel pipe connection and little enough bother after that. God the old o-rings were as flat as pancakes. Amazing they never leaked. Could be in there over 15 years.

Now, the question I have is - of the 2 smaller o-rings, which one should I have used. I used the smaller of the 2, but it had to be rolled up the bolt.

Good work Patsy. Great when things eventually work out.
To answer your question. Is the one you have on it now sealing? If so isn't that all you want? Keep checking it for the next few days. And keep the other o ring just in case.

Muckit · 03-06-2019 2:40pm

My own trials and tribulations this weekend revolved around replacing a broken back window in tractor (shear grab mast won out)

Refitted rubber, closing catch and tubular frame to the anew glass. Easy.
To take off the rear hinges (still on tractor) involved loosening and lifting the roof to get at the countersunk bolt heads, 2 on each. 3 opened lovely. Last one not a budge. Tried belting in different screwhead sockets no avail. Decided then to drill out. Worked grand. Off with hinge but couldn't get rest of bolt out with vice grips so cut off, drilled out and decided to retap. All this while having the 4yo young lad kneeling on drivers seat looking out at me asking 100 questions, rearranging my socket set and spare parts and finding the minutest pieces of glass even though l had used shop vac on it.
Anyways all was still grand until l decided to use tap in the drill. It threaded in grand but you guessed it, snapped in the hole. I was fit to be tied.

Had to come away from it before l did someone or the tractor harm!:D
Resumed yesterday with a plan B and got all back on tractor.

All is well with the world again!

SuperTortoise · 03-06-2019 2:42pm

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Changed the diesel filters on my old David Brown today. Now, there are 2 flat rubber seals and 2 o-rings. The top o-ring sits under the very top of the head of the bolt that holds on the filter. I have never changed this o-ring as either the engine exhaust manifold or the filter housing has to come off. I thought it was time to replace it.
Rather than risking a leaking connection, I tried to take off the engine manifold. Got 5 nuts off, all that I could see, and no way would it budge. Onto the internet and did a search under engine manifold removal. Nothing on tractors, but on a mechanics chatroom, one guy suggested to double check all nuts were off as some can be well hidden. Low and behold, 2 more nuts hidden in behind. Off with the first but the last could not be taken off without ........removing the diesel filter housing.:mad:
Back to plan B - off with the filter housing. Only had to open one diesel pipe connection and little enough bother after that. God the old o-rings were as flat as pancakes. Amazing they never leaked. Could be in there over 15 years.

Now, the question I have is - of the 2 smaller o-rings, which one should I have used. I used the smaller of the 2, but it had to be rolled up the bolt.

If an O ring is sliding over a bolt then i would use the tightest fitting of the two, theory is you can leave space on the outside of the ring for the rubber to expand into when the bolt is tightened, putting on a loose fitting O ring and there's a good chance it will crimp or double over itself when you tighten it and you'll have a leak.

vincenzolorenzo · 04-06-2019 12:13am

Muckit wrote: »

My own trials and tribulations this weekend revolved around replacing a broken back window in tractor (shear grab mast won out)

Refitted rubber, closing catch and tubular frame to the anew glass. Easy.
To take off the rear hinges (still on tractor) involved loosening and lifting the roof to get at the countersunk bolt heads, 2 on each. 3 opened lovely. Last one not a budge. Tried belting in different screwhead sockets no avail. Decided then to drill out. Worked grand. Off with hinge but couldn't get rest of bolt out with vice grips so cut off, drilled out and decided to retap. All this while having the 4yo young lad kneeling on drivers seat looking out at me asking 100 questions, rearranging my socket set and spare parts and finding the minutest pieces of glass even though l had used shop vac on it.
Anyways all was still grand until l decided to use tap in the drill. It threaded in grand but you guessed it, snapped in the hole. I was fit to be tied.

Had to come away from it before l did someone or the tractor harm!:D
Resumed yesterday with a plan B and got all back on tractor.

All is well with the world again!

How did you get the broken bit of tap out?

Keep Sluicing · 04-06-2019 12:29am

vincenzolorenzo wrote: »

How did you get the broken bit of tap out?

He used large quantities of colourful language

Muckit · 04-06-2019 7:48am

vincenzolorenzo wrote: »

How did you get the broken bit of tap out?

I'll let the next lad worry about it

there's probably special toughened bits that could drill it out... but l don't have them. Drilled a new hole alongside. All my messin is hidden under the lip of the roof now!

patsy_mccabe · 04-06-2019 9:24am

Not being smart Muckit, but do you know how to use a tap? There's kind of a knack to it. You work it back and forth, removing and cleaning a few times. Cutting paste or fluid helps too. I'll run for cover. :rolleyes:

Parishlad · 04-06-2019 9:31am

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Not being smart Muckit, but do you know how to use a tap? There's kind of a knack to it. You work it back and forth, removing and cleaning a few times. Cutting paste or fluid helps too. I'll run for cover. :rolleyes:

Ah Patsy, how hard can it be to use a tap....just turn it one way and the water comes out....turn it the other and it stops.....simples!

patsy_mccabe · 04-06-2019 9:46am

Anyway, quickly changing the subject - does anyone know what make these are. Saw them in Shannonside Galvanising, Limerick last week.

Muckit · 04-06-2019 9:59am

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Not being smart Muckit, but do you know how to use a tap? There's kind of a knack to it. You work it back and forth, removing and cleaning a few times. Cutting paste or fluid helps too. I'll run for cover. :rolleyes:

Try it when you've a 4yo old breaking ur melt aswell!

Any recommendations on how to remove a broken tap!!??

patsy_mccabe · 04-06-2019 10:17am

Muckit wrote: »

Try it when you've a 4yo old breaking ur melt aswell!
Any recommendations on how to remove a broken tap!!??

Have you tried tapping it out sideways with a chisel?

Muckit · 04-06-2019 11:18am

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Have you tried tapping it out sideways with a chisel?

No it well broken inside in it. No room to work a chisel or even a centre punch

Muckit · 04-06-2019 11:57am

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Anyway, quickly changing the subject - does anyone know what make these are. Saw them in Shannonside Galvanising, Limerick last week.

Did u get that crush gate galvanised in the end? Pretty penny ld say but worth it.

Muckit · 04-06-2019 12:01pm

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Have you tried tapping it out sideways with a chisel?

Just watching AvE there on youtube. Tis a tricky one. Learn something new everyday.
Seems l need to get me some cutting fluid and some carbide bits ...... for again.

patsy_mccabe · 04-06-2019 12:23pm

Muckit wrote: »

Did u get that crush gate galvanised in the end? Pretty penny ld say but worth it.

Waiting on a call back from them. The channel I used had paint on it. Spent a couple of hours removing it with paint remover and wire brush, only to be told it had to be further sand blasted before galvanising. :mad:
So no, it won't be so cheap now.

MfMan · 04-06-2019 12:23pm

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Anyway, quickly changing the subject - does anyone know what make these are. Saw them in Shannonside Galvanising, Limerick last week.

Could be Major. Often see a few heading south on a trailer on the M17 from Tuam to be galvanised.

patsy_mccabe · 04-06-2019 12:29pm

Muckit wrote: »

Just watching AvE there on youtube. Tis a tricky one. Learn something new everyday.
Seems l need to get me some cutting fluid and some carbide bits ...... for again.

It's common enough. I remember the cursing from the floor when lads would break a tap. Not easy remove from a blind hole. I think they used drill them out, if they could. I watched a video there and one guy suggested using an engraving tool and vibrate it out. It would want to be fair loose for that.

patsy_mccabe · 04-06-2019 12:36pm

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Anyway, quickly changing the subject - does anyone know what make these are. Saw them in Shannonside Galvanising, Limerick last week.

MfMan wrote: »

Could be Major. Often see a few heading south on a trailer on the M17 from Tuam to be galvanised.

Would it be Rossmore? Mudguards look the same.
http://rossmoreeng.ie/index.php/farming-equipment/tankers/recessed-vacuum-tankers/1800-gl-tanker/

have2flushtwice · 04-06-2019 1:18pm

Ice paint on a wall this 20 years or more. I tried to powerwash it off and no joy. Petrol powerwasher.

I then got a scrubbing brush and white spirits, rubbed it on and left it for a half hour, no joy with the powerwasher again. Any ideas?!

blue5000 · 04-06-2019 1:19pm

Muckit wrote: »

Try it when you've a 4yo old breaking ur melt aswell!
Any recommendations on how to remove a broken tap!!??

If it is big enough try a long nose pliers or long nose junior vise grips down into the hole into where the filings are supposed to come out. Take it slowly and use oil.

blue5000 · 04-06-2019 1:26pm

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Anyway, quickly changing the subject - does anyone know what make these are. Saw them in Shannonside Galvanising, Limerick last week.

I'm guessing Rossmore by the light brackets

Gman1987 · 04-06-2019 8:32pm

have2flushtwice wrote: »

Ice paint on a wall this 20 years or more. I tried to powerwash it off and no joy. Petrol powerwasher.

I then got a scrubbing brush and white spirits, rubbed it on and left it for a half hour, no joy with the powerwasher again. Any ideas?!

Sandblast?

enricoh · 04-06-2019 8:52pm

have2flushtwice wrote: »

Ice paint on a wall this 20 years or more. I tried to powerwash it off and no joy. Petrol powerwasher.

I then got a scrubbing brush and white spirits, rubbed it on and left it for a half hour, no joy with the powerwasher again. Any ideas?!

9" angle grinder with the knotted wire brush head, dust mask and goggles. Id only do an hour at a time, aul arms get sore!

Nekarsulm · 04-06-2019 9:18pm

Stronger power-washer.
A good PTO one will cut into concrete.
Also, get a rotary head for it, really gets into nooks and crannies.

have2flushtwice · 04-06-2019 10:08pm

The grinder is the most feasable option for me, thanks!

Labour Saving and General Guntering

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