Labour Saving and General Guntering

Nekarsulm

Hagimalone wrote: »

Drum of a pz mower

Should last for ever, just waiting for the inevitable "safety" comments...

Limestone Cowboy

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Should last for ever, just waiting for the inevitable "safety" comments...

Safer than the bean tins the originals were made out of.

TheFarrier

Finally finished the forged gate that’s been taking up space in the shed with the last 12 months and got it hung

The Rabbi

TheFarrier wrote: »

Finally finished the forged gate that’s been taking up space in the shed with the last 12 months and got it hung

Beautiful job.Any chance of a close up of the rivits(front and back)and how they were done.I have a gate here that could do with some tidying up.

Lime Tree Farm

TheFarrier wrote: »

Finally finished the forged gate that’s been taking up space in the shed with the last 12 months and got it hung

Very nice. I would like to see a close up of your gate hanger.

My pair of front gates have sagged and are not lining up and closing properly. The heel plates have worn down and can’t be easily accessed as they are under the tarmacadam. I had pieces welded into the front of the top hangers to prop them back, which raised them slightly upwards, this worked until recently.

Your type of hanger may be a solution to my problem.

TheFarrier

The Rabbi wrote: »

Beautiful job.Any chance of a close up of the rivits(front and back)and how they were done.I have a gate here that could do with some tidying up.

No photos of the finished rivets unfortunately I had hoped to get some before I delivered it but forgot. Will try to get some next time I call there.

To make the rivets all I did was hammer the ends of bits of round bar that were placed into a kind of jig or former I made in the photos below. Then released the bolts and freed the rivets.
To fit them then they were just put in place hot and the protruding end hammered till it swelled.

For the gate hanger lime tree I failed a few times to forge one so I welded a loop of 10mm round onto a bit flat and heated it the forge and hammered the weld to make it look the part. This was then rawlbolted into the wall. The heel of the gate was merely sat into a hole in the concrete step

Muckit

Is it missing a vertical bar nearest the hinged side?

TheFarrier

Muckit wrote: »

Is it missing a vertical bar nearest the hinged side?

Kind of.

There was never any plan or drawing it was most definitely a seat of the pants operation that grew organically.

The twist in the crossbar prevented the proper spacing so I reckoned it was easier leave it and the space be wide than include it at a tighter space and still be wrong...

Lime Tree Farm

TheFarrier wrote: »

For the gate hanger lime tree I failed a few times to forge one so I welded a loop of 10mm round onto a bit flat and heated it the forge and hammered the weld to make it look the part. This was then rawlbolted into the wall. The heel of the gate was merely sat into a hole in the concrete step

Thank you. The original top holder was neatly incorporated into the blockwork.

It will be a matter of hacking out the original hangers and attaching replacements.

MickeyShtyles

One of the wheelbarrows at home was a bit worse for wear....
Grinder and a few nuts and bolts and this is what we have.
Handy for cutting the grass.

patsy_mccabe

MickeyShtyles wrote: »

One of the wheelbarrows at home was a bit worse for wear....
Grinder and a few nuts and bolts and this is what we have.
Handy for cutting the grass.

Great idea and it won't rust either.

MickeyShtyles

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Great idea and it won't rust either.

Cheers Patsy.

Cavanjack

Anyone know what centers the spikes on a bale lifter should be for the ducks feet/paddles to work? Anyone ever make their own paddles?

Suckler

MickeyShtyles wrote: »

One of the wheelbarrows at home was a bit worse for wear....
Grinder and a few nuts and bolts and this is what we have.
Handy for cutting the grass.

I'll be stealing that idea!

MickeyShtyles

Suckler wrote: »

I'll be stealing that idea!

Steal away.
One thing I will say is, maybe don’t cut it as diagonally as I did. Think ya might get a bit more capacity with it.

9935452

Cavanjack wrote: »

Anyone know what centers the spikes on a bale lifter should be for the ducks feet/paddles to work? Anyone ever make their own paddles?

On a double we have them at 40 inches.
I made a single at 36 and its too narrow at that.
For the paddles i used 2.5 inch fot the main part and 1.5 inch pipe for the outside ring.
Found blue band better than brown band for bending as the brownband kinked

Cavanjack

9935452 wrote: »

On a double we have them at 40 inches.
I made a single at 36 and its too narrow at that.
For the paddles i used 2.5 inch fot the main part and 1.5 inch pipe for the outside ring.
Found blue band better than brown band for bending as the brownband kinked

Thanks, how you find them? Do they do the job?

9935452

Cavanjack wrote: »

9935452 wrote: »

On a double we have them at 40 inches.
I made a single at 36 and its too narrow at that.
For the paddles i used 2.5 inch fot the main part and 1.5 inch pipe for the outside ring.
Found blue band better than brown band for bending as the brownband kinked

Thanks, how you find them? Do they do the job?

We like them .
The paddles are normally easier to get under bales especially when they start going flat.
More support for the bale too.
You carry them closer to the tractor than a trip bale handler so easier for a small tractor.
They can tip bales over too.
And also can be used as a spike for the winter .
If you are planning on using it as a spike put an extra tine bush somewhere in the centre .it makes it easier to lift bales with an extra tine
Downside is keeping the tines tight.

9935452

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/352699487442

An interesting pto driveshaft cover 😊

Reggie.

9935452 wrote: »

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/352699487442

An interesting pto driveshaft cover 😊

It works

Cavanjack

9935452 wrote: »

We like them .
The paddles are normally easier to get under bales especially when they start going flat.
More support for the bale too.
You carry them closer to the tractor than a trip bale handler so easier for a small tractor.
They can tip bales over too.
And also can be used as a spike for the winter .
If you are planning on using it as a spike put an extra tine bush somewhere in the centre .it makes it easier to lift bales with an extra tine
Downside is keeping the tines tight.

Do they just sit over the tines or are they held in place. I presume they have to be able to rotate freely?

9935452

Cavanjack wrote: »

9935452 wrote: »

We like them .
The paddles are normally easier to get under bales especially when they start going flat.
More support for the bale too.
You carry them closer to the tractor than a trip bale handler so easier for a small tractor.
They can tip bales over too.
And also can be used as a spike for the winter .
If you are planning on using it as a spike put an extra tine bush somewhere in the centre .it makes it easier to lift bales with an extra tine
Downside is keeping the tines tight.

Do they just sit over the tines or are they held in place. I presume they have to be able to rotate freely?

Nut and bolt and big washer
Yes they need to turn

Zoom in on the pic and you will see it.
https://www.donedeal.ie/otherfarmmachinery-for-sale/bale-lifters-spikes-ducks-feet/19944356

Donald Trump

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Hagimalone wrote: »

Drum of a pz mower

Should last for ever, just waiting for the inevitable "safety" comments...

You'd want to be careful. If it's not weighted evenly the driveshaft/pin at the top could just shear off after a while due to stress. And I'd say that it would be near impossible to have it weighted properly.

Aravo

Any recommendations for a hydraulic toplink for general use, bale handler especially. One with a check valve.

Reggie.

Built a set of lights for the mower a few weeks ago. Kverneland wanted €380 but I'm too mane to pay that. Cost about €80

valtra2

Reggie. wrote: »

Built a set of lights for the mower a few weeks ago. Kverneland wanted €380 but I'm too mane to pay that. Cost about €80

Jesus Reggie they were no need to put lights on that.

cute geoge

Reggie. wrote: »

Built a set of lights for the mower a few weeks ago. Kverneland wanted €380 but I'm too mane to pay that. Cost about €80

What is the spring with the wire near the drive shaft at the back of the mower for
??
How easy is that mower to put on tractor

Reggie.

cute geoge wrote: »

What is the spring with the wire near the drive shaft at the back of the mower for
??
How easy is that mower to put on tractor

I think it's to put tension on the bed so it doesn't flop all over the place.

Mower isn't too bad to put on once you get the hang of it. Putting it on level ground is the biggest thing

Panch18

Reggie. wrote: »

I think it's to put tension on the bed so it doesn't flop all over the place.

Mower isn't too bad to put on once you get the hang of it. Putting it on level ground is the biggest thing

Reggie I notice that you have taken the mower off with the flotation chain still on, we normally take it off but I’m not sure if that’s right or wrong

Buford T. Justice XIX

Necessity is the mother of invention.

I would normally buy a handful of clips in Woodies and clip them on the gate to stop it opening but now I just squeeze a staple together a bit and does the job well.

Just make sure not to use the barbed staples....