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Today I did something to my bike thread...

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Comments

  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 52,390 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    maybe some iced coke.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,288 ✭✭✭saccades


    Just keep adding penetrating oil, do you have a vice?

    Put a sacrificial saddle on, put that in the vice and use the frame as gentle leverage.

    Might need to remove the wheels if your shed is small.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,360 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    Weepsie wrote: »
    No vice, saddle is end of life so no problem with damaging it. It's nearly the correct height anyway, so I'll probably just leave it as is until I don't need the bike in a couple of weeks.

    stillson and a long steel pole, lay the frame flat on the floor and get someone to hold it down. Leverage is your friend and a saddle wont offer enough of that if it's really stuck.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,780 ✭✭✭Pinch Flat


    Had neglected the commuter a lot lately, mostly due to time pressures and being away a few weekends on the trot. Bike Was starting to creak and groan and a lot of small jobs needed doing. Missed my chain and cassette replacement, so Picked up a new chain and cassette, new brake pads and changed out a jamming gear cable on the front derailleur.

    Took apart the rear brake, it was sticking and full of gunk. Full strip down, clean, regrease and reassembly and put back. Bike running like new again.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,665 ✭✭✭Trekker09


    I'm going to attempt a Di2 installation on Sunday, there will be many questions coming!

    How did that go for you? Curious as I might be going down the same road soon.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,240 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    Trekker09 wrote: »
    How did that go for you? Curious as I might be going down the same road soon.

    I opened the box with the brakes - the only bit I don't have and they were 6800 rather than 8000 (which I ordered and paid for) so have sent them back and waiting for the new package to arrive. I'm not doing it until I have everything


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,382 ✭✭✭cletus


    Today I 'ave mostly been...installing bar end plugs


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,691 ✭✭✭triggermortis


    Weepsie, Plus gas is better than WD40 for loosening seized parts. It’s a spray so should be easy to get to where it’s needed


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,655 ✭✭✭secman


    Weepsie, I had and still have a siezed seat post, it's Alu on an Alu frame. Tried all sorts of penetrating oil sprays, coke, heat. Managed to damage frame using leverage. Rode it without clamp , it's well seized. It's. Marginally too high,
    Winter hack, just accepted the fact,


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 15,904 Mod ✭✭✭✭smacl


    Put new pinned flat pedals on my old hack MTB which were feeling like the business heading up Cruagh road today until one of the feckers fell off! To add insult to injury, turns out my trendy little ratchet bike tool set doesn't have an allen key big enough for pedals so no roadside fix option. Walked home and got the pedal back on ok though the first couple of threads on the crank arm look stripped. Dithering now between getting new crank arms, a whole new group or going large and just getting a new bike. Going to waste half an hour on the bike sites now to alleviate the frustration of missing my lunch time spin.


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  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 52,390 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    just finished giving the bike a wash, which i'd been meaning to do for a week or more, but worth noting that there were spots of rust on it in places you don't expect to see rust, e.g. the cassette - must have been the salt being spread on the roads in the last few weeks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,288 ✭✭✭saccades


    just finished giving the bike a wash, which i'd been meaning to do for a week or more, but worth noting that there were spots of rust on it in places you don't expect to see rust, e.g. the cassette - must have been the salt being spread on the roads in the last few weeks.

    Loads and loads of it. Car is filthy in a day when it's damp, before the frost it looked ok for over a week.


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 52,390 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    also worth mentioning - disc brakes had gotten very squealy (though OK when warm), even in the dry.
    on the offchance it was just salt, i soaked them in boiling water and a little degreaser, and it seems to have done the trick, with an important caveat that i haven't tried them in the wet.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 36,170 ✭✭✭✭ED E


    Just put a bit of degreaser on my hivis to try and remove some drivetrain crud from my sleeves. Will see in a bit if I've f#cked the jacket or not.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,561 ✭✭✭Eamonnator


    ED E wrote: »
    Just put a bit of degreaser on my hivis to try and remove some drivetrain crud from my sleeves. Will see in a bit if I've f#cked the jacket or not.

    please let us know, how it works out.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,235 ✭✭✭✭Cee-Jay-Cee


    Had an annoying buzzing from the internal rear brake cable in the top tube so I bought rubber tubing with a 2mm ID and removed the cable and fitted a new cable and fitted a 30cm length of the rubber tubing over the cable inside the TT. Bounced the bike several times to ensure the buzzing noise was gone before cutting the cable and crimping on the cap. Job done, bike silent once again.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 221 ✭✭BrianHenryIE




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 755 ✭✭✭Sandwell


    I've been using an old wheel on the turbo for the past couple of months. I put a new cassette on it so that I could switch back and forth with minimal hassle. However, when I tried switching back to my outdoor wheel just now there seemed to be a problem with the gearing. The crank was extremely stiff to turn even in the lightest gear. The wheel itself would spin freely so there was no obvious obstruction there. When I switched back in the trainer wheel it turned smoothly. The cassettes are the same as far as I can tell - they're both 10 speed 105 - and I didn't have to reindex when I started using the trainer wheel. Could it be that the chain has adapted to a new cassette and won't engage correctly with the old one any longer? I'm at a loss and would appreciate any ideas. For now it looks like a long turbo session instead of my planned jaunt around North County Dublin :(


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,235 ✭✭✭✭Cee-Jay-Cee


    Sandwell wrote: »
    I've been using an old wheel on the turbo for the past couple of months. I put a new cassette on it so that I could switch back and forth with minimal hassle. However, when I tried switching back to my outdoor wheel just now there seemed to be a problem with the gearing. The crank was extremely stiff to turn even in the lightest gear. The wheel itself would spin freely so there was no obvious obstruction there. When I switched back in the trainer wheel it turned smoothly. The cassettes are the same as far as I can tell - they're both 10 speed 105 - and I didn't have to reindex when I started using the trainer wheel. Could it be that the chain has adapted to a new cassette and won't engage correctly with the old one any longer? I'm at a loss and would appreciate any ideas. For now it looks like a long turbo session instead of my planned jaunt around North County Dublin :(

    Swap cassettes between the wheels to rule out chain/cassette wear but I’d be more inclined to think either the bearings or pawls in the freehub are causing the problem.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,012 ✭✭✭route66


    I serviced my rear Shimano 6800 wheel yesterday to address a 2mm lateral movement when mounted on the bike.

    YouTube was handy, but I couldn't find anything exactly like my wheel - the closest was a 6800 hub service which has different internals.

    I removed the axle and ball bearings on the drive side. On the non-drive side the balls were in a cage behind a seal which I didn't want to remove.

    I cleaned up everything and applied loads of grease to the cup, cones and to the loose and caged balls - and fiddled around with the bearing tension before putting it all back together.

    Success! The wheel rotates freely and smoothly and no play. Particularly chuffed because I've never touched wheels before.

    I fitted these new 4 years ago and they have about 11.5K kms clocked up. Other than this bearing service they have never been touched and are in perfect nick. I'd describe them as bulletproof.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,691 ✭✭✭triggermortis


    My commute/ winter bike has started making awful creaking noises the past few days so I removed the crank and BB and cleaned and greased it all. Had to use an ezy-out on a crank arm bolt as it rounded off. Not a good start.
    Back wheel had some play in the bearing so sorted that out and back brake was really ineffective so removed and cleaned that, and put new pads in.
    As the sun is shining, I took off the awful mudguards to reduce the rattling and general awfulness of the whole experience. Looking forward to my commute later, but probably jinxed the weather....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 548 ✭✭✭barrymanilow


    I converted my partners road bike into a 1x8. She never uses the big ring and the deraileur just rubbed the chain . Involved removing a few links of chain , removing the front deraileur and its cables , then replacing the front ring with a bashguard and putting a dog fang chain catcher on the seat tube. The bashguard and chain catcher are probably overkill but better safe than sorry. It's made for a simplified bike that is very straight forward for a novice to use.

    46652907444_a851809655_c.jpgIMG_20190314_093319


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,594 ✭✭✭Deano12345


    I converted my partners road bike into a 1x8. She never uses the big ring and the deraileur just rubbed the chain . Involved removing a few links of chain , removing the front deraileur and its cables , then replacing the front ring with a bashguard and putting a dog fang chain catcher on the seat tube. The bashguard and chain catcher are probably overkill but better safe than sorry. It's made for a simplified bike that is very straight forward for a novice to use.

    I like that! Really clean, did you reuse the original chainring to did you have to swap it out for something else?

    The steady stream of parts arriving in for my cheap tri bike means I was able to put together the bars tonight. Not cabled yet though, that’s not a 10pm job! Will get it all set up over the weekend!

    It’s a Temani Base bar, Cane Creek Levers, Temani tri bars and DA shifters for anyone interested!

    (Didn’t want to upload an image directly as it’s from my phone and not resized so it’s massive!)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 548 ✭✭✭barrymanilow


    Hi , Yes I kept the original inner chainring. I was considering switching it out for something single speed specific or a narrow wide but someone on the interweb told me that the inner ring on a road double already has a profile that would suit using it for a 1x so there was no need


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,594 ✭✭✭Deano12345


    Hi , Yes I kept the original inner chainring. I was considering switching it out for something single speed specific or a narrow wide but someone on the interweb told me that the inner ring on a road double already has a profile that would suit using it for a 1x so there was no need

    Interesting! Wasn’t aware you could do that! Thanks!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,240 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    Just a big clean and a couple of cable tweaks. Gave itva layer of the wax linked below. Really happy with how its turned out

    http://www.detailingshed.com/waxes/56-chemical-guys-pete-s-53.html


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,594 ✭✭✭Deano12345


    Wanted to paint my new build but I baulked at the cost of having a carbon frame painted!

    Decided to give Plasti-Dip spray a go. Put the first coat on tonight, just did the fork so far to see how it comes up. Looks okay so far and should look pretty nice with 4 more layers to go!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 575 ✭✭✭bsb1971


    Will you post pictures when you have the frame sprayed, be interested to see how it turns out. Have a frame I want to respray myself.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,594 ✭✭✭Deano12345


    bsb1971 wrote: »
    Will you post pictures when you have the frame sprayed, be interested to see how it turns out. Have a frame I want to respray myself.

    Sure will, Hoping to get a full coat on the frame tomorrow morning...once the weather stays decent! :o


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,594 ✭✭✭Deano12345


    Slightly delayed by other commitments, I dodged the rain showers tonight to get a first coat on the frame.

    I’m reasonably happy so far since it was cheap and required zero prep,! Another few coats this weekend and it’ll be right, right now the carbon still shows through in spots, which isn’t a bad look I don’t think!


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