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STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,866 ✭✭✭cute geoge


    I have a mulberry stove and the grate is after disintegrating .It is the grate with a circular part that swivels to stoke up the fire .I have disconnected this part from the bar that works it in the front.I was just thinking of replacing with a ordinary grate .Is it a big job to remove old grate from the stove and replace with new grate


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,152 ✭✭✭limnam


    Water John wrote: »
    There is a load bearing lintel over each fireplace to the front, same as over windows and doors. Prestressed concrete slab.
    Inset stoves slide in under this. If you have two fireplaces back to back, the two lintels take the load weight of the chimney stack. IWT a stove like Boru 1600 might fit. You'll have to check with the tradesman who'll be installing.


    Ah,


    I'm with you now. What I'm looking to do is take the whole breast out and stack of both rooms and have a large double sided slot in the new gap between the rooms



    Would I be able to have the slab you mentioned rebuilt above the new stove to take the weight from say the 1st floor cieling upwards?


  • Registered Users Posts: 21,133 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    Out of my league. I think you'd have to strip down the chimney and rebuild.

    Beaware, watch Builder O'Reilly Fawlty Towers, with the load bearing wall.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,576 ✭✭✭Squatman


    Hi folks,
    what is the maximum distance a stove with back boiler should be away from the hot tank without eating into its efficiency.
    our open fire is approx 18 meters away from the hot tank, and im afraifd that the pipes may be rattly and temperature inefficient.
    is there a rule of thumb around this?

    tHanks all


  • Registered Users Posts: 605 ✭✭✭upupup


    Squatman wrote: »
    Hi folks,
    what is the maximum distance a stove with back boiler should be away from the hot tank without eating into its efficiency.
    our open fire is approx 18 meters away from the hot tank, and im afraifd that the pipes may be rattly and temperature inefficient.
    is there a rule of thumb around this?

    tHanks all

    The movement of hot water from the stove to the hot tank is called gravity circulation so any length of vertical distance will work but the futher you travel horizontally,the worse your system will be.
    There is no max distance as every house is different but if it does not circulate properly it may become dangerous and overheat as you can not turn off a stove quickly.

    18 meters is a lot...1 or 2 meters is the preferred distance for a trouble free system


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,767 ✭✭✭dzilla


    Hello all. I am having difficulty picking a stove KW output for an open plan are. The space is double height. So the living dining area is 2.4m height and 26m² the kitchen is 20m² but the curling is faulted so it's 2.4m and then closes into a triangle that is 4.4m².

    So it's quite a large space.

    We are putting a stove in and we have been told by some that we only need 7kw as we have 2 radiators in the space aswell. The stove installer is saying we should go for 12kw. However I genuinely think it might be too much. We are only heating the room no back boiler.

    Would it be best to go for middle of the road size or the large size. I genuinely don't want to be melting in the space and opening windows etc


  • Registered Users Posts: 19,613 ✭✭✭✭Muahahaha


    Can't answer your question for sure but you should check out the nominal output of the stove when making a decision, it is often a few KW below the headline figure quoted in sales brochures.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,298 ✭✭✭jmreire


    Has anyone have any experience with a Charnwood Country 16 B Multi-fuel stove?? It's for an older house, and will have to heat 7 rads ( two will be small rads though, towel warmer and toilet rad )
    Thanks for any info.


  • Registered Users Posts: 599 ✭✭✭batman1


    Hi,

    We currently have a stratford ecoboiler 12HE inset boiler stove .
    While it heats the radiators, they're not 'hot' and the room where the stove is in is not as warm as we would perhaps like. We've had it in for 8 years but between the heat output and the passing of time, we are thinking of changing.

    We hope to open up the fireplace and fit a freestanding boiler stove instead of the insert one and up the power to see if the room heat improves. The Mrs would like the stove to be 'hot', as in nice to stand beside it and warm up....! Our current one doesn't give that type of heat.

    After speaking to the supplier, he recommended putting in a 20Kw stove, specifically the Henley Druid 21Kw. Has anyone experience of these? I noticed they have bricks inside. Does this mean regular replacement/cracking etc?

    A friend says the Boru Carrag mor 20Kw is good also.

    Stanley reginald also seems to fit.

    Any advice is much appreciated


  • Registered Users Posts: 186 ✭✭rpmcs


    batman1 wrote:
    We currently have a stratford ecoboiler 12HE inset boiler stove . While it heats the radiators, they're not 'hot' and the room where the stove is in is not as warm as we would perhaps like. We've had it in for 8 years but between the heat output and the passing of time, we are thinking of changing.

    batman1 wrote:
    We hope to open up the fireplace and fit a freestanding boiler stove instead of the insert one and up the power to see if the room heat improves. The Mrs would like the stove to be 'hot', as in nice to stand beside it and warm up....! Our current one doesn't give that type of heat.


    Hi. The 12he would be a far better stove than the druid in my opinion.
    But when you say bricks. Where did you see the bricks?
    The main reason you are not getting good heat to the room is because the stove is not getting the system up to temperature. So getting a freestanding stove that has more output than 12kw to the water is probably what u need
    Bit get a plumber in and see how many rads you have and what output they would require and then when u get that right the out put to room should improve.
    If that makes sense?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 737 ✭✭✭Forge83


    batman1 wrote: »
    Hi,

    We currently have a stratford ecoboiler 12HE inset boiler stove .
    While it heats the radiators, they're not 'hot' and the room where the stove is in is not as warm as we would perhaps like. We've had it in for 8 years but between the heat output and the passing of time, we are thinking of changing.

    We hope to open up the fireplace and fit a freestanding boiler stove instead of the insert one and up the power to see if the room heat improves. The Mrs would like the stove to be 'hot', as in nice to stand beside it and warm up....! Our current one doesn't give that type of heat.

    After speaking to the supplier, he recommended putting in a 20Kw stove, specifically the Henley Druid 21Kw. Has anyone experience of these? I noticed they have bricks inside. Does this mean regular replacement/cracking etc?

    A friend says the Boru Carrag mor 20Kw is good also.

    Stanley reginald also seems to fit.

    Any advice is much appreciated

    You would be mad to change the Stratford for inferior models. I would look at the volume and quality of fuel you are using. Or consider fitting a heat hero to improve stove boiler performance.
    No boiler stove gives massive room heat.

    Henley Druid boiler stove doesn’t have bricks either, only the room heater models.


  • Registered Users Posts: 599 ✭✭✭batman1


    Maybe the one he showed me was a room heater model. Definitely had bricks in it.

    So would sticking to Stratford be the way to go long term? Maybe their freestanding stoves in a bigger size?

    Any other manufacturers which would be considered good for freestanding stoves?

    We will need to change the flue liner before next winter as its got slight damage from an unknown source (dodgy chimney sweep). In order to replace the liner the fireplace has to come out to gain access to the top of the stove. When the stove went in, the fireplace surround cracked as it was a cheapy put in by the builders, so we were told it would need replaced whenever the next time it comes out.

    Therefore, if we are doing all those jobs we may as well change the 8 year old stove and fit a bigger one, freestanding that hopefully wouldn't need major surgery to change the liner in the future.


  • Registered Users Posts: 737 ✭✭✭Forge83


    batman1 wrote: »
    Maybe the one he showed me was a room heater model. Definitely had bricks in it.

    So would sticking to Stratford be the way to go long term? Maybe their freestanding stoves in a bigger size?

    Any other manufacturers which would be considered good for freestanding stoves?

    We will need to change the flue liner before next winter as its got slight damage from an unknown source (dodgy chimney sweep). In order to replace the liner the fireplace has to come out to gain access to the top of the stove. When the stove went in, the fireplace surround cracked as it was a cheapy put in by the builders, so we were told it would need replaced whenever the next time it comes out.

    Therefore, if we are doing all those jobs we may as well change the 8 year old stove and fit a bigger one, freestanding that hopefully wouldn't need major surgery to change the liner in the future.

    Removing the liner will be a dirty job if backfilled with vermiculite.
    Stratford would be regarded as the best boiler stove brand. Nothing wrong with the other brands you mentioned either, just a notch down from Stratford.
    Henley & Hamco would be the 2 mid range I would advise if you are set on changing. Where you based and I can point you in direction of a good genuine stove specialist.


  • Registered Users Posts: 599 ✭✭✭batman1


    Forge83 wrote: »
    Removing the liner will be a dirty job if backfilled with vermiculite.
    Stratford would be regarded as the best boiler stove brand. Nothing wrong with the other brands you mentioned either, just a notch down from Stratford.
    Henley & Hamco would be the 2 mid range I would advise if you are set on changing. Where you based and I can point you in direction of a good genuine stove specialist.

    I was actually questioning the need for a liner at all.

    Based in Donegal


  • Registered Users Posts: 737 ✭✭✭Forge83


    batman1 wrote: »
    I was actually questioning the need for a liner at all.

    Based in Donegal

    Try Devlin Fireplaces in Bridgend. Those guys really know their stuff.
    Shaun Devlin is the guy to speak to there.


  • Registered Users Posts: 599 ✭✭✭batman1


    Forge83 wrote: »
    Try Devlin Fireplaces in Bridgend. Those guys really know their stuff.
    Shaun Devlin is the guy to speak to there.

    Good guys . It was there where I was asked whether I really wanted a flue liner as they don't bother them much anymore due to hassle changing them.


  • Registered Users Posts: 9 vtecdec


    Seen the Heat Design Vitae 9kw Cassette Stove recently in a Stove/Fireplace showroom.
    Looks to be a very tidy stove alright?
    Anyone here have one of these Vitae 9Kw stoves. Any comments/feedback whether good/bad would be quite useful as I plan to purchase at the weekend.

    Thanks in advance.


  • Registered Users Posts: 737 ✭✭✭Forge83


    vtecdec wrote: »
    Seen the Heat Design Vitae 9kw Cassette Stove recently in a Stove/Fireplace showroom.
    Looks to be a very tidy stove alright?
    Anyone here have one of these Vitae 9Kw stoves. Any comments/feedback whether good/bad would be quite useful as I plan to purchase at the weekend.

    Thanks in advance.

    Very popular stove, decent quality, Irish brand. Made in China but wouldn’t worry about it as decent quality.


  • Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭try


    Is there any difference in appearance between Schiedel TecnoFlex plus 316L and 904L flue liner? Is the grade stamped on the liner?

    I’ve ordered the 904L and want to make sure I’m getting what I pay for


  • Registered Users Posts: 737 ✭✭✭Forge83


    try wrote: »
    Is there any difference in appearance between Schiedel TecnoFlex plus 316L and 904L flue liner? Is the grade stamped on the liner?

    I’ve ordered the 904L and want to make sure I’m getting what I pay for

    If it’s a wrapped roll of flexi it will be labeled before it’s opened.
    I think it will be wrapped in black plastic if memory serves me right.

    Once opened only someone in the industry would be able to tell the difference by feel.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,767 ✭✭✭dzilla


    Do cassette stoves need back stone cladding or tiling on the wall around it? I am looking at putting one in a square space about 2ft from ground level on a wall I have. My stove fitter is mentioned that the walls could crack with the heat however the majority of pictures I see of the cassette stoves have painted walls behind them.

    This is the look I want I don't want cladding or tiling or a mantle piece. Is this achievable?

    See link for reference -
    https://goo.gl/images/tvYoyF


  • Registered Users Posts: 21,133 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    There is a heat resistant board you can put on the chimney breast and plaster with special plaster. Maybe 20mm, you won't notice it. We did it putting in a new gas fire, would recommend it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,768 ✭✭✭youngblood


    vtecdec wrote: »
    Seen the Heat Design Vitae 9kw Cassette Stove recently in a Stove/Fireplace showroom.
    Looks to be a very tidy stove alright?
    Anyone here have one of these Vitae 9Kw stoves. Any comments/feedback whether good/bad would be quite useful as I plan to purchase at the weekend.

    Thanks in advance.

    Lovely Stove, no real problems since installing 3 years ago
    Only thing I've had to replace is the baffle- The brick that hangs in the center of the stove
    I've had to replace it twice
    First covered by the shop, second one this year brand new was 80e


  • Registered Users Posts: 93 ✭✭Orchids


    dzilla wrote: »
    Do cassette stoves need back stone cladding or tiling on the wall around it? I am looking at putting one in a square space about 2ft from ground level on a wall I have. My stove fitter is mentioned that the walls could crack with the heat however the majority of pictures I see of the cassette stoves have painted walls behind them.

    This is the look I want I don't want cladding or tiling or a mantle piece. Is this achievable?

    See link for reference -
    https://goo.gl/images/tvYoyF

    We have this and didn’t put anything around the stove as I wanted the same look as you, we have stove in 3 years and had some very small cracks that were barely noticeable, I sanded them down during the summer and painted over and it turned out perfect


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,767 ✭✭✭dzilla


    Orchids wrote: »
    We have this and didn’t put anything around the stove as I wanted the same look as you, we have stove in 3 years and had some very small cracks that were barely noticeable, I sanded them down during the summer and painted over and it turned out perfect

    Hey, thanks for getting back to me, we went to a different stove company who advised we would not need the cladding. thanks for letting me know that you have the same setup always good to hear something has been done already :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 223 ✭✭CantThinkOfANam


    Hi all,

    Just in the process if buying a new build house.

    The house in question is heated by gas central heating and has an energy rating of A3. It has no chimney so obviously no wood burning stove, or electric fire in the sitting room.

    We really want to put a wood burning stove into the room, purely for comfort and effect. I’ve got a engineer to check if it’s possible and there’s no problem with an internal flue going up along the inside wall.

    The problem is, we are worried the room might be too warm with the stove running as a few people have mentioned this.

    The room is 23.7m2 or 66.3m3.

    Has anybody any opinion on this? We looked at electric fires but still not the same as a wood burning stove. And we have viewed some other new builds with smaller sitting rooms that have a stove in place.

    Cheers.


  • Registered Users Posts: 21,133 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    Be sure the radiator in the room is on a thermostat. Would think stove needs to be 5Kw or less, engineer should spec it. Would the stove need an external air source?


  • Registered Users Posts: 223 ✭✭CantThinkOfANam


    Yes I was speaking to someone in a store today and they said there would need to be a copper pipe put through the wall for an air source.


  • Registered Users Posts: 223 ✭✭CantThinkOfANam


    Sorry my mistake, it’ll obviously need more than a copper pipe air source from outside.

    Am I mad to do this on an A rated house?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 34 greenbamboo


    Would ye recommend the 6.5Kw Stanley Cara insert stove or should I go for the Stanley oisin 6.4kw freestanding. A lot of people telling me il get much better heat from oisin but surely the cara will have the room just as warm if nearly the same kw? The cara looks very nice and neat for a sitting room in an existing curved Lombard fireplace. any opinions are appreciated. Thanks

    https://www.countrylife.ie/shop/product/Stanley-Cara-Insert-Stove-Non-Boiler/9042200?gclid=CjwKCAjw96fkBRA2EiwAKZjFTdjMwWjGBUvejZGwNuB1Ru4g_Bts3YJldraqZ2wHdh9vQVpuAFOmnBoCig0QAvD_BwE


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