Today I did something to my car (volume 2)

JJJJNR wrote: »

Would replacing the gearbox oil regularly increase the life of the clutch. I've done three drain and replace oil changes on mine and the clutch seems fine. It feels like I should have had some huge bill at this point (touch wood) but everything seems to be fine.

It would have zero effect but the gearbox will love it

I bought an Impreza 2.0R for winter use. It’s an 06 car with less than 90k miles on it.

There were a few known issues when I was buying it which helped lower the price.

First of all the rear drivers side door wouldn’t open from Inside or outside. I managed to remove the door card with the door closed and figured out the problem and had it all sorted and back together within 30 minutes. The door now opens and closes and I can lock it by flipping the button on the inner door handle but it won’t lock with the key/central locking for some reason. I do t really care TBH so long as I can open and close the door, it’ll do.

Secondly there was a constant belt squeal when the engine was idling or below 1500rpm. I bought a new alternator belt, fitted it and voila, no more noise.

There was anafternarket double din unit fitted in the car which suddenly stopped working yesterday so I removed it and luckily sourced an OE unit which I’ll hopefully have on Monday and get fitted.

I also replaced the 5w number plate light bulbs with LED bulbs as the originals were very dim and barely lit the plate at night.

Next week...timing belt. Not relishing that job but it needs to be done as there is no record of it having been replaced previously as so with 90k in the car I do t want to leave it too long.

Out with the old in and in with the new, the youtube video I watched said this was a 30 minute job... it turned into a 3 and a half hour job in the end. Stuck torx bolts that I almost stripped stopped me in my tracks. A lot of cursing and wd-40 and I managed to break them free. But done now, and it looks well, the paint is a pretty good match. The car depsparatly needs a clean which should help things!

Before... it's been like this for a year and half or more!


During:


After:

Alanstrainor wrote: »

Out with the old in and in with the new, the youtube video I watched said this was a 30 minute job... it turned into a 3 and a half hour job in the end. Stuck torx bolts that I almost stripped stopped me in my tracks. A lot of cursing and wd-40 and I managed to break them free. But done now, and it looks well, the paint is a pretty good match. The car depsparatly needs a clean which should help things!

Before... it's been like this for a year and half or more!

Want to fix the rust on the wheel arch

My trusty always on the button Bora PD130 let me down the other day when I went out to it. Everything working except not a sausage turning the key to start. Had a cursory look at a few fuses and eventually after looking at a few yootoob videos decided to check if I had power going to the starter. Pulled out the battery and battery tray for access and immediately could see the cable coming out of the solenoid was broken down to maybe one copper strand and it broke completely as soon as I touched it. Was relieved it wasn't anything more, got a spade connector onto the cable and back on the solenoid and everything back together and it's back on the button again.:)

Going by one of the videos I'd watched it seems it's not an uncommon problem on these mark 4s.

First read I thought you had a V8 e36 you were getting rid of. I was thinking to myself you should scrap the missus

Well, not my car, or car for that matter but nonetheless... Some small jobs carried out on the Santa Fe over the weekend.

• Replacement gearbox + transfer box
• New turbo
• Timing belt + wp
• New crank pulley
• Fluids/aux belt/oil + filter etc etc etc

Very easy to remove the engine, just make sure you can tilt it on the way out to leave more room to manouver. Transfer box also wants to snag on the subframe

I also have utilized some old trickery on the turbo + manifold (no fancy software, no pictures!), it pulls harder low down for longer now. Fueling next when I get a chance. Whomever replaced the belt before had it a tooth out at the cam, essentially leaving the engine advanced slightly. Not that we were complaining, it explains why it's far more powerful than a lot of other Santa Fe's... Only the belts were ever changed it seems, the idler pulley was heavily pitted and was a hoor to remove! There were also missing bolts/incorrect bolts and cobbling (gear cable end held on with a piece of wire for example) that were also rectified

I have piss all pics as this had to be juggled along with normal tasks, but you get the idea. In the garage on the Friday evening, drove out on the Sunday. Immediate next: modify the clutch slave cylinder...!

wotzgoingon wrote: »

Did you leave it with advanced timing or change it back to stock?

I left it advanced, I would have advanced it myself if it wasn't!

Maybe they dont fit but that looks very like those universal fittings.
https://www.amazon.fr/TING-Étanche-Electrical-Connector-Marine/dp/B00BYNKUSE

Eric Cartman wrote: »

tried one of those, sadly too big and too much of a 'waterproof' seal on those.

Would have been too easy :P

They look like AMP Econoseal connectors, do you have any dimensions?
Kojaycat, Polevolt, Easternbeaver all have these but with proper dims you have a better chance of finding what you need.

fancy pigeon wrote: »

This was done on Saturday. What was happening was the clutch would slip in 4th and 5th, from 2500rpm to 3k rpm. Naturally unacceptable...

We discovered there was a restriction piece in the slave, to help with smooth clutch operation. A load of horse excrement if you ask me. It's a simple collar on a spring (see diagram below)

Duly placed in the bin

Slave on, clutch as normal once again

Its funny that manufacturers are fitting these restrictors in the slave cylinders, Honda have done the same to improve clutch feel with the same problems.

vintagevrs wrote: »

I have a 320ci parked outside and it is throwing a code that the MAF is faulty. p0102 Mass Airflow (MAF) Circuit Low Voltage Input. I picked up another MAF from a breakers and still same problem. If the MAF is unplugged the car starts and drives fine. If the MAF is reconnected the engine stops striaght away. If I start the car with the MAF hooked up it starts and then dies straight away. I checked the MAF is getting 12v no problem with a meter and car has a new battery too.

Any other ideas?

Thanks

Any corrosion on the connector?

Did the control arm bushes on my vw cc today, very straight forward. Bit of work getting the bush off but all in all did both in about an hour. I did manage to over tighten a bolt and snap it but I got it out easy enough, you live and learn.

Well chuffed with myself only ever done brakes and change oil.

The Real B-man wrote: »

Finally Serviced herself's /my old Mk2 Tdi Leon it was only 8k over a service! 1litre of oil was drained capacity is 4.3!, fuel filter and housing gunk!, air filter was ok, all replaced with new filters and fresh oil, im surprised it hasn't blown up yet nearing 300k and it's a BXE engine regularly serviced on time when i owned it so possibly why it's still going strong even on 1 litre of oil!

Wouldn't it be beneficial to do it again after 5k to flush out any excess gunk from last time due to being overdue?