Today I did something to my car (volume 2)

blackbox

CJhaughey wrote: »

What do you use to fill the T-box ? I found it to be an awkward job until I got a cheap oil syringe.
I could never get the little bottle high enough to properly empty it.
What about the Diff oils?

Lidl oil pump is perfect for filling gearboxes and diffs. Never actually used it for engine oil yet!

vintagevrs

New cabin filter....hardly qualifies for this thread but hey ho

challengemaster

Taking advantage of the FIL being a mechanic these days...



Air filter, oil + filter, cabin filter, fuel filter + left front ABS sensor all changed. Was well overdue a decent service anyway...

Gave it a clean up yesterday afternoon. Not perfect, but a hell of a lot better

After months looking for the source of a rattle I finally got it.
Literally hours spent on it,
Nut on the top of the rear shock was a fraction loose.
If you are a rattle I will find you,and I will kill you!!!

blade1

BrownFinger wrote: »

After months looking for the source of a rattle I finally got it.
Literally hours spent on it,
Nut on the top of the rear shock was a fraction loose.
If you are a rattle I will find you,and I will kill you!!!

Hahaha
I'm like that as well.
I had a squeak going over bumps in an A4 before.
Got driven around in the boot until I found the cause.
It was a loose nut holding on the rear bumper! :pac:

Yea I had the missus driving around with me in the boot!
We were sure it was coming from the interior,I found the clock spring in the seatbelt retracter was unwound and was sure that was the source.
Nearly cried yesterday when it wasn't .
Need a new retracter before I can reassemble the interior.

vintagevrs

I spent some time in the e30 boot at 50kph. Was a complete was of time. Later found that a brand new shock was to blame. Exhaust sounded well from there though

Wise Old Elf

I've a similar noise from the front of my focus, must check the nuts at the top of the mount, just in case!

vintagevrs

Did a bit more to the f31 today. New air filter first, very simple job, two clips just. The replacement filter comes in its own housing and drops in.

Then went to flush the brake fluid ahead of new discs arriving next week. Two rear wheels off first and pressure bleeder set up on reservoir. However couldn't get more than a drip at the caliper. Called local mechanic who said computer is needed for that job. Diy videos online show it being done traditional way, but who knows. Gave up on the brake bleed. Cleaned wheels when I had them off.




Had a little help moving them

Interslice

vintagevrs wrote: »

Diy videos online show it being done traditional way, but who knows. Gave up on the brake bleed. Cleaned wheels when I had them off.

Were the wheels on the ground in the videos by any chance?

Id normally bleed back brakes with the wheels on the deck to open the brake balance valve, on my old traditional vehicles

vintagevrs

Yeah I think that might be what was against me as the rears were up and fronts down. Never had an issue before though but can't remember how the car was sitting last time. Different car too. Just changed the fuel filter. Bit of a prick of a job lying on my back, and the plastic undertray has so many feckin screws holding it. The metal retaining clip that is used at one end of the filter needed a lot of persuasion to go back on too. Think its easier to pay a pro for this ****. All done now though so happy days.

CJhaughey

Changed Air, Pollen and Fuel Filters, they were pretty manky.
Fuel wasn't too bad but I have no pic due to diesely hands.
Fuel filter is easier on the CW3 than the CN2 due to easier access the down side is you need an 88mm 15 flat filter remover to get it off.
Honda genuine filters are actually cheaper than many spurious ones.
https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=460049&stc=1&d=1535747487
https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=460050&stc=1&d=1535747487

The Real B-man

Oil and filter change on the Tiguan finally got myself a oil extractor really impressed!

fancy pigeon

Bit more relaxed of a weekend, so had time to take pics... Sort of.

W126: Rad change. Badly needed!


A new rad cap will be ordered next, along with a viscous coupling

607: Understanding why the heater fan doesn't work. Cause: a complete brain dead gobsh*te bodged it :rolleyes:


This is meant to go into the resistor which was a lump of tape and a matchbox. I ceremoniously stamped on the bodged lump of tape/box and kicked it into the weeds


Cut the loom from another car. Pins nicely slide out


Old + replacement


It still doesn't work as I ran out of time chasing why there is no power getting to the motor (could be a fuse, knackered control unit, more monkey wiring etc) Gimme an evening at it

And here I am still cleaning up after some other **** f*ckery... Why can't people even attempt to do things right!

Cass

Nothing fancy today just some cosmetic stuff, cleaning, and a new set of tyres for my "project" car. Its a 2004 Passat B5.5, 1.8T.

• Started with a headlight restoration
• Stuck on Heko Wind deflectors
• Wire brushed and sanded the hubs & the back of the alloys
• All calipers removed and painted (not sure why i went with blue, but it'll do)
• New 16mm wheel spacers and elongated bolts
• New set of 225 tyres all around
• New set of VW logo centre caps
• New VW tailored floor mats (not pictured)

Coupled with the previous work (installing the fogs, heater core, clutch, interior trim and accessories, brake pads, discs, and that only leaves the exterior bodywork. I've some sanding and spraying to do, but also a serious detailing job ahead.

After that it'll leave only the four shocks and a full service and she should be good to go.

Noccy_Mondy

Always loved them passats, still holding well!

vintagevrs

I had a slight vibration when braking from higher speeds. Also think the car was on its original disks, although fresh pads were put in by previous owner recently enough.

New pads, disks and sensor fitted this evening. Followed a bedding in process I found online and so far so good, vibration seems to be gone.

challengemaster

Little teaser for something in the works...

MetzgerMeister

challengemaster wrote: »

Little teaser for something in the works...

Alanstrainor

challengemaster wrote: »

Little teaser for something in the works...

Replacing the rust with carbon fibre? Nice!

challengemaster

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

Sadly, no... not an RX7. I wish

MetzgerMeister

challengemaster wrote: »

Sadly, no... not an RX7. I wish

Not what I was hinting at

Bottom left of your pic looks like a headlight washer cover anyway.

colm_mcm

Changed the front pads in the civic tonight as the squeal was happening. Still a bit left on them which is amazing since I haven’t changed them in 6 years and 160k

Turns out it was the rear pads squealing on the back left which had a sticking calliper about 5 years ago, don’t think it’s sticking now but it’s much harder to do the back than the front because of the handbrake. Bah.


Still it was no harm doing the front ones. Probably should do front discs too.

punisher5112

Car was running so bad since yesterday, it was down on a coil so got 2 new ones and fitted as had replaced the other 2 about 2 years ago.

Had a set of platinum spark plugs so done them also.

The ones in it were ok but one was quite well covered in carbon I believe.

Running much sweeter now.

It was like driving a car with kangaroo petrol or just like my ma use to drive.... :-)

eringobragh

colm_mcm wrote: »

Changed the front pads in the civic tonight as the squeal was happening. Still a bit left on them which is amazing since I haven’t changed them in 6 years and 160k

Turns out it was the rear pads squealing on the back left which had a sticking calliper about 5 years ago, don’t think it’s sticking now but it’s much harder to do the back than the front because of the handbrake. Bah.


Still it was no harm doing the front ones. Probably should do front discs too.

Are they the original discs? Hers were like soup dishes at 130k

If your doing them, do yourself a favour and follow this to save time and effort with those cuntish retaining screws

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5632095&postcount=12

replaced mine with allen bolts same pitch size coated with some anti seize to make the next lads job a bit easier

colm_mcm

eringobragh wrote: »

Are they the original discs? Hers were like soup dishes at 130k

If your doing them, do yourself a favour and follow this to save time and effort with those cuntish retaining screws

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5632095&postcount=12

replaced mine with allen bolts same pitch size coated with some anti seize to make the next lads job a bit easier

I don’t know if they’re the originals, they haven’t been changed as long as I’ve had it, but they may have been changed in the first 80k. Don’t have any record of them being done.

Cass

Having spent so much time on the Passat i decided it was time to turn back to the Vectra.

All the talk above about trim got me thinking about my own so i decided to tackle it. The trim around the wing mirrors, the pillars, grille, etc. was all clean but starting to fade.

I've seen videos on using heat guns to bring out a great finish, but for me it seems counter productive. Heating the trim to bring out the oils will do just that, but i believe (and i've no proof of this) that it'll eventually lead to the trim being dry and brittle. So i looked for alternatives that did not use Back to Black or other "wetting" substances as these are only temporary.

I found a video about a method of oiling the trim (you've all probably tried or heard of this, but i'm behind the times) and decided to try it out. I mixed Johnson's baby oil and a generic mineral oil in a 50-50 ratio. I cleaned the trim, well, with rubbing alcohol and dried with a MF towel. I then applied the oil mix to the trim, fairly heavily, and liberally with a cotton patch. I dabbed it on and faced the car towards the sun. I then left it it in the direct sunlight for over two hours.

After the two hours i wiped all the excess oil off. The trim has gone back to its original dark tone, it's hydrophobic and does not simply wipe off.

The trick to this method is a warm/hot day and let the oils "soak/bake in". Fairly happy with the results, but now the car needs a good wash to remove the baby oil streaking down the bodywork (it's harmless, but messy looking).










Then i decided to "scratch an itch". For the longest time i've wanted a centre console armrest. Was looking at various aftermarket ones and the only one i found that i liked is no longer available so i gave up on it.

In the scrap yard today getting parts for my Sister's car, and i see a 2007 Vectra. Only arrived in. Front end damage that has it written off but the interior is spotless. Low and behold the full armrest console, in perfect condition (albeit without air vents, but mine is not set up for them). Took about 15 minutes to strip it out (three screws, four bolts and some patience not to crack the plastic clips) and out she came. Took about the same to install, but it changes the feel and look of the interior of my own.

Here is how she was (not great picture)




Here she is now:




So a fairly productive day. Funny how the smallest things can be the best.

MetzgerMeister

That will eventually come off with washing and the elements. Best option with black trim is either Gtechniq C4 or CarPro DLUX applied with a cotton pad every 2 years.

Cass

I know it'll eventually come of, but not as quick as the "detailing" stuff i've seen. and used previously. They didn't last a week.

I'll check out the stuff you mentioned.

punisher5112

Cass wrote: »

I know it'll eventually come of, but not as quick as the "detailing" stuff i've seen. and used previously. They didn't last a week.

I'll check out the stuff you mentioned.

Car pro dlux is amazing.

Makes the job look easy.

Do the prep work right and it lasts even longer.

I done the heat gun but eventually the plastic is destroyed and loses all colour, black to black as soon as it rained it destroyed the lovely job done on the paint so a ceramic coating is the way to go.