Detailing chat

MANSFIELD · 05-04-2018 01:56PM

Methylated spirits will remove that sticky residue too.

vectra · 05-04-2018 05:26PM

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

For this exact job I always use a product called Sticky Stuff Remover. That or something similar can be bought at any hardware store.

You could use tar remover but the strong smell isn't something you want in the car. Cleaning with glass cleaner afterwards will reduce the smell but it'll be there for a little while.

Unless you use Carpro TarX
No real chemical smell of that.

Duff · 05-04-2018 06:24PM

Similar problem as above only on the boot. the '520d' badge on my car was missing the 5 so I removed the 20d badges earlier and was left with a mixture of felt-like residue and what looks like hard white super glue. I've tried both white spirits and sticky stuff remover from Halfords and I just can't seem to get rid of it completely. The sticky stuff remover helped get rid of a fair bit but you can still make out the shape of the badge on the boot. Anything else I can try or is my only option a new badge to cover it?

Curran · 05-04-2018 06:43PM

Duff wrote: »

but you can still make out the shape of the badge on the boot. Anything else I can try or is my only option a new badge to cover it?

Thats due to wash / UV damage to the paintwork that was uncovered around the badge.
Polishing it will match the surrounding areas to the badge covered areas - you might get result by just hand polishing

high horse · 05-04-2018 09:31PM

bazz26 wrote: »

lads, quick question for you.

I removed the old tax/insurance disc holder from the windscreen that the dealer put there, it was difficult to remove and left some adhesive marks on the windscreen. What would you suggest using to remove the remaining adhesive?

What I find to be effective in removing glue residue is to put sticky tape on the glue and then remove the tape straight away. This will need to be repeated a few times. Any kind of sticky tape will do, sellotape, duck tape, etc. I would try to avoid using solvents inside the car

bazz26 · 07-04-2018 11:51PM

I ended up buying this and it worked a treat:

https://www.homestoreandmore.ie/detergents/hg-sticker-remover-300ml/invt/060176

Noccy_Mondy · 08-04-2018 01:56AM

Will have the loan of a numatic wet vac soon. Want to shampoo the interior of the fleet. Seems to be a decent wet vac, it's blue, like George but without the eyes....

Anyway... What shampoos would be recommended...

And, proper procedure, want to do floors, mats and seats.

Cheers.

h3000 · 08-04-2018 09:34AM

Is the Auto Finesse iron fallout product any good? I’ve a bit of unexpected free time and I’m out of IronX.

EPAndlee · 08-04-2018 09:42AM

h3000 wrote: »

Is the Auto Finesse iron fallout product any good? I’ve a bit of unexpected free time and I’m out of IronX.

I find it does the job well but the triggers on the 500ml bottles are horrible

Sexual Chocolate · 08-04-2018 09:54AM

It's being 4 weeks since the side of the car was sprayed. Should I be okay to get it washed today ?

punisher5112 · 08-04-2018 11:02AM

Sexual Chocolate wrote: »

It's being 4 weeks since the side of the car was sprayed. Should I be okay to get it washed today ?

Yes and wax or polish etc...

moby2101 · 08-04-2018 12:12PM

Quick question guys

My wife spilt a cappuccino in her car last week. She was telling me how the bad the smell was so I told her I would take a look today.
Holy fcuk... it smells like someone died in there .
What’s the best way to tackle it other than a febreze type of product

micks_address · 08-04-2018 12:28PM

moby2101 wrote: »

Quick question guys

My wife spilt a cappuccino in her car last week. She was telling me how the bad the smell was so I told her I would take a look today.
Holy fcuk... it smells like someone died in there .
What’s the best way to tackle it other than a febreze type of product

My daughter puked in mine last week.. Fabric seats disaster.. Puked into the vent at back of yeah arm rest to.. Cleaned it best I could with upholstery cleaner.. I've read baking soda helps neutralise smells if you make a paste with water cover the area and wipe clean.. I dosed mine all week after with chemical guys stripper scent.. Its fine now but few days after car sitting in the sun could smell it in the evenings.. Cleaned out the vent with cotton buds..
I miss leather for cleanup... Was much better for times like that.

punisher5112 · 08-04-2018 02:11PM

moby2101 wrote: »

Quick question guys

My wife spilt a cappuccino in her car last week. She was telling me how the bad the smell was so I told her I would take a look today.
Holy fcuk... it smells like someone died in there .
What’s the best way to tackle it other than a febreze type of product

Wet vac would do wonders and likes of washing machine powder or liquid.

White distilled vinegar and water to neutralize or as mentioned baking soda.

On the sick one it would be best to remove seat and get in all around and under plastics.

moby2101 · 08-04-2018 07:31PM

Car has been febreezed and baking soda ed to death ...
Doors are open so hopefully time will sort it out!

punisher5112 · 08-04-2018 08:16PM

moby2101 wrote: »

Car has been febreezed and baking soda ed to death ...
Doors are open so hopefully time will sort it out!

Febreeze will only mask for a very short time.

padyjoe · 09-04-2018 11:08AM

I have to replenish my stock, used up all the IronX, I had and not impressed by the AG tar remover. So I'd need fallout and tar remover and a decent glass cleaner. Any recommendations? (IronX was ok, no idea what to get for the other 2.)

I have had the chance to clean the car for month bar the occasional soft brushing with flowing water. And I think it's time to get a capable power washer too which I'd like to use for the patio floor and pathways.
Thank you!

MetzgerMeister · 09-04-2018 11:36AM

Fallout - Bilt Hamber Korrosol/Gtechniq W6

Tar - CarPro Tar-X/Gtechniq W7

Glass - Gtechniq G6 + AutoGlym Glass polish (they do have some good products) for interior glass.

padyjoe · 12-04-2018 04:27PM

I'm sorry, I might not been clear enough. Could you, lads, recommend me a decent enough power washer as well, please? I'm open on going down either a 2nd hand or a brand new way. There are so many to choose from, gets my head spinning. Thanks!

punisher5112 · 12-04-2018 04:33PM

Some on here bought the nilfisk and say it's good. I bought a karcher k4 there last year and find it great.

MetzgerMeister · 12-04-2018 05:17PM

I bought a Karcher K5 a few years ago for around €450. They've come down an awful lot since then and I've never had any issue with mine having had cheaper models previous to that and the motor went in all of them after a year or two.

padyjoe · 12-04-2018 05:26PM

Yes, my worry is 'few years ago'. I suspect the build quality is not as great as used to be, hence selling them cheaper. If I got an expensive one, still not 100% sure that it will last.

Ryath · 12-04-2018 05:35PM

Nilfisk C130 models up have induction motors so will last a lot longer. I have a one nearly two years paid €160 in argos and amazon often have offers on them but none at the minute. Cheapest in argos is a c135 for €184.

Good price here @ €138

MetzgerMeister · 13-04-2018 10:45AM

padyjoe wrote: »

Yes, my worry is 'few years ago'. I suspect the build quality is not as great as used to be, hence selling them cheaper. If I got an expensive one, still not 100% sure that it will last.

Why wouldn't it be? End of line stuff is always reduced when it's about to be replaced with a newer (more expensive) model.

DaveyDave · 13-04-2018 04:31PM

I used BH Autowheel for the first time today, it smells rancid! Does a great job though, didn't need to use the wheel brushes. Just used them when the snowfoam was settling to get behind the spokes and I could have left it if I wanted to be lazy.

Intended on using Tar X also but the spray nozzle doesn't seem to fit the bottle :P

Duff · 14-04-2018 02:27AM

Going to head to Halfords tomorrow to pick up stuff to tackle the oxidised paint on the bonnet. Just double checking I need to get a cutting compound, a polish and a sealant?

punisher5112 · 14-04-2018 10:02AM

Duff wrote: »

Going to head to Halfords tomorrow to pick up stuff to tackle the oxidised paint on the bonnet. Just double checking I need to get a cutting compound, a polish and a sealant?

Look up detailingshed.com.

Curran on here has a place to get all the gear also.
Pm him I'm sure he could help.

Curran · 14-04-2018 11:57AM

Duff wrote: »

Going to head to Halfords tomorrow to pick up stuff to tackle the oxidised paint on the bonnet. Just double checking I need to get a cutting compound, a polish and a sealant?

Yes, you'll need compound to remove oxidization. Compound is polish and in terms of machine polishing, compounding its a heavier cutting ability than polish (which is often refereed to as the medium cutting ability). So Compound > Polish > Refine

But Im assuming you will be polishing by hand, so any sort of hand polish will restore the gloss you are looking to achieve. Other steps pre polishing help with the overall appearance. Ensuring the paintwork is fully decontaminated (removing bonded contamination that regular washing cant remove) will help too; what sort of contamination? An obvious one is tar, and less obviously iron/fallout, which is microscopic but when it builds up, detracts from the overall appearance.
A wash, tar remover, iron/fallout remover, claybar is the decontamination procedure. Then the paintwork will already look vastly improved. A once over with polish and then protect it a wax or sealant and the job will be a good'un!

padyjoe · 14-04-2018 12:39PM

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

Why wouldn't it be? End of line stuff is always reduced when it's about to be replaced with a newer (more expensive) model.

Conspiracy theories.

Duff · 14-04-2018 04:40PM

Curran wrote: »

Yes, you'll need compound to remove oxidization. Compound is polish and in terms of machine polishing, compounding its a heavier cutting ability than polish (which is often refereed to as the medium cutting ability). So Compound > Polish > Refine

But Im assuming you will be polishing by hand, so any sort of hand polish will restore the gloss you are looking to achieve. Other steps pre polishing help with the overall appearance. Ensuring the paintwork is fully decontaminated (removing bonded contamination that regular washing cant remove) will help too; what sort of contamination? An obvious one is tar, and less obviously iron/fallout, which is microscopic but when it builds up, detracts from the overall appearance.
A wash, tar remover, iron/fallout remover, claybar is the decontamination procedure. Then the paintwork will already look vastly improved. A once over with polish and then protect it a wax or sealant and the job will be a good'un!

Excellent advice. Thanks alot. Took me nearly 5 hours to do and I now have delts Arnie would be proud of, but it's completely transformed the car. Delighted with the results. Must invest in a machine polisher, though :pac:

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