The "Today I did something to my bike" thread

CaptainR · 08-03-2017 05:56PM

TeaBagMania wrote: »

Wait, what? when did they get rid of the one and two centers?

A year ago maybe? They're still legal tender and that but the banks don't give them out anymore and all the prices that were 2.99 are 3.00 and the ones that were 2.97 are 2.95.

frozenfrozen · 09-03-2017 02:37PM

Reviving my dead battery, the charger wouldn't turn on without the battery having at least 3.7V so used a separate power supply to trick it,

currently sitting at 10.3V and going up slowly, hopefully it holds the charge..

new batteries look very $$$$$

frozenfrozen · 09-03-2017 04:56PM

How it was with the separate power supply attached, 12V 1A for a few hours yesterday and all today.

It's after passing the 90 second test and back into normal charging mode, currently being charged at just under 14V and 3 bars out of 4.

I'm not sure what I did was good for the health of the battery but it looks like it may have worked anyway

TeaBagMania · 09-03-2017 05:20PM

Best of luck Frozen, the old beemer battery would hold a charge long enough to get it started... once and then it was dead again.

CJhaughey · 09-03-2017 07:12PM

Those Dynavolt are supposed to be decent enough though, AGM as well might stand to it. How long was it flattened for?

stewygriffin · 09-03-2017 08:29PM

Got my race seat foam in from the Uk today.
Cut it with a stanley knife and moulded/sanded it down with P80 sandpaper to create the shape of the rear of the S1000rr to make a seat bump pad.

Mr Sheen! · 09-03-2017 10:09PM

stewygriffin wrote: »

Got my race seat foam in from the Uk today.
Cut it with a stanley knife and moulded/sanded it down with P80 sandpaper to create the shape of the rear of the S1000rr to make a seat bump pad.

Ah your exhaust doesn't seem as good anymore :pac::pac::pac:

https://youtu.be/zLhVL2OpmFI

frozenfrozen · 09-03-2017 10:10PM

CJhaughey wrote: »

How long was it flattened for?

it was flat about a month so very very flat

CJhaughey · 10-03-2017 10:41AM

frozenfrozen wrote: »

it was flat about a month so very very flat

Mmmmm.... It'll be interesting to see if it is recoverable.

frozenfrozen · 10-03-2017 10:50AM

Looking very promising after last nights charge

Going to leave it unplugged for the day and try again this evening to see if it has held the charge.. if it has then back into the bike it goes

stewygriffin · 10-03-2017 12:16PM

Just popped into Gary @ Mototuning.
Busy mapping road and track bikes as is usual.

frozenfrozen · 10-03-2017 05:45PM

Put the battery back in the bike and the dash lit up and no alarm going off, will turn over but not fire which is grand because there's **** all petrol in it

I have a big list of stuff that I think needs doing

New spark plugs
Clean out fuel tank
Clean fuel filter / fuel pump
valve clearances?
sweep up those leaves and pressure wash the patio again
throttle body sync?
throttle position sensor(it's set to the default which is way too high to start fuelling)
Check the high idle and see if it's working properly
install HEL brake lines front and rear
new brake fluid and maybe refresh all the seals on the calipers at the same time as doing the SS lines
remove this bastarding alarm system before it leaves me stranded somewhere
get to riding the ****ing thing

I have the new PR4 front tyre waiting that needs to go on.

first things first I need to buy a nice set of 3/4" tools and security torx for the TPS adjustment.

and I need to download the haynes manual to figure out the story with valve clearance check..

Richard tea · 10-03-2017 07:40PM

Well technically its something ill have to do. Just copped today ive done 25k since I changed the front pads. Unfortunately one of the pads is worn right down and has worn groves into the disc. I shopped around and have ordered a disc and pads for €130 form louis.de. I knew from the last service I would need new pistons so I have ordered them from wemoto. $22 each:( I clock up so many kilometers I should really set reminders on an app or something. I ordered new tyres the other day but ill keep that for my tyre fitting thread. On the up side it gives me an excuse to use the blackbird

Wonda-Boy · 10-03-2017 08:23PM

You wore the pad into the disc!!!! Did you not feel the change in braking or any feed back at all......

Richard tea · 10-03-2017 08:30PM

Wonda-Boy wrote: »

You wore the pad into the disc!!!! Did you not feel the change in braking or any feed back at all......

I haven't had time to have a good look. Ill do it after work tomorrow. There is no difference in braking performance or odd sounds. Only thing I can think of for now is that my caliper is single piston sided. So pressure was uneven from one side. The outer side of the disc is fine. The inner side has a ripple effect when I run my finger along the face. There looks to be a small bit of pad left. I wonder if some grit or similar got stuck between the pad and disc.

blade1 · 10-03-2017 08:47PM

Pads wouldn't have to be fully gone to put a ripple in the disc.
Better off changing before they get thin though.

frozenfrozen · 11-03-2017 05:12PM

tankless job but somebody has to do it

found out there's still loads of petrol in the tank, i'd say just under a gallon... going to have to siphon it out

stewygriffin · 11-03-2017 05:22PM

[QUOTE=frozenfrozen;102885935]tankless job but somebody has to do it

found out there's still loads of petrol in the tank, i'd say just under a gallon... going to have to siphon it out[/QUOTE]

Richard tea · 11-03-2017 09:22PM

blade1 wrote: »

Pads wouldn't have to be fully gone to put a ripple in the disc.
Better off changing before they get thin though.

I removed the pads this evening. There was barely 1mm left on one pad. Can't see what caused the abnormal grooves in the disc. To be fair the caliper was in a state. Full of dirt and sh1t. I reckon over the winter months I should remove the caliper once a month for a cleaning.

Any other all year round commuters have any experience with keeping the brakes clean and tidy?

blade1 · 11-03-2017 09:31PM

Richard tea wrote: »

I removed the pads this evening. There was barely 1mm left on one pad. Can't see what caused the abnormal grooves in the disc. To be fair the caliper was in a state. Full of dirt and sh1t. I reckon over the winter months I should remove the caliper once a month for a cleaning.

Any other all year round commuters have any experience with keeping the brakes clean and tidy?

Dirt,heat,thin pads.
Any or all of the above really.
Also clean out the buttons/bobbins the hold the disc in place.
Use brake cleaner and turn each button to keep it free.

Richard tea · 11-03-2017 09:34PM

blade1 wrote: »

Dirt,heat,thin pads.
Any or all of the above really.
Also clean out the buttons/bobbins the hold the disc in place.
Use brake cleaner and turn each button to keep it free.

Yep I'm going to give it a propper clean and fresh grease when parts arrive. My own fault for neglecting it in the first place. With no engine braking it really is tough on the pads.

stewygriffin · 11-03-2017 09:46PM

Lads,the R1 is giving me some hassle.

When hes hot at about 95c and the fans come on,I cant get the neutrel light to come on and the bike wont start when shes in neutrel.
When shes cooled down the problem goes away and normal service is resumed.

Im stumped.

Any ideas?

TeaBagMania · 11-03-2017 10:01PM

frozenfrozen wrote: »

tankless job but somebody has to do it

found out there's still loads of petrol in the tank, i'd say just under a gallon... going to have to siphon it out

Awesome view, looks like a nice place you have there

Wonda-Boy · 11-03-2017 10:05PM

Richard tea wrote: »

Yep I'm going to give it a propper clean and fresh grease when parts arrive. My own fault for neglecting it in the first place. With no engine braking it really is tough on the pads.

Dont use grease on the bobbins Joe, use a PTFE spray on the bobbins on the disc if you have them (semi floating) basically its a dry lube that wont creep.

frozenfrozen · 12-03-2017 01:38PM

got a mouth full of petrol trying to siphon out the last couple of drops of petrol from the tank.

only a tiny amount of rust bits in the tank, talking 7-8 flecks is all I can see. And it's coming from the little bracket which holds the petrol level indicator type thing which looks to not be stainless (for some ****ing reason)

I have the fuel pump out and have made attempts to drain it before I'll take it open for a quick peak at the filter, I'm guessing it'll be perfectly fine but while I have it out I may as well.

Just going to leave the bits of rust in the tank because I have no idea how I'd drain the rest without getting another mouthful

had 3 pints of water and a little mars bar and the taste has just about gone away :pac:

blade1 · 12-03-2017 02:13PM

stewygriffin wrote: »

Lads,the R1 is giving me some hassle.

When hes hot at about 95c and the fans come on,I cant get the neutrel light to come on and the bike wont start when shes in neutrel.
When shes cooled down the problem goes away and normal service is resumed.

Im stumped.

Any ideas?

Does it need an oil change?

stewygriffin · 12-03-2017 02:40PM

blade1 wrote: »

Does it need an oil change?

Was gonna do an oil/filter and coolant change in the next month on her anyway.

Been googling the problem and it seems that it could be either a failing starter motor or else a dodgey gear position sensor.

GPS is a much cheaper and easier fix,so hope its just that.
starter motor for a 14B crossplane R1 engine isnt exacly cheap,even 2nd hand off ebay.:pac:

frozenfrozen · 12-03-2017 03:06PM

pump out

inside of the tank is perfectly rust free bar some from the level sensor thing

lots of stuff stuck in under the filter

and on the filter

that's most of what I scraped out of everything

Only about 5 steps in dismantling the pump would highly recommend doing it on a decently old bike, there is bound to be loads of stuff there from over the years..

Now a question.. in the first picture there, you see the two little spouts, one had petrol piss out of it when I turned the tank the wrong way and the other has had nothing come through and is full of rusty looking ****

What should the rusty one be doing and where would I go about pushing a pipe cleaner through from the other side and should I replace the hose that connects to that on the bike as that is full of rusty **** too?

blade1 · 12-03-2017 03:28PM

frozenfrozen wrote: »

pump out

inside of the tank is perfectly rust free bar some from the level sensor thing

lots of stuff stuck in under the filter

and on the filter

that's most of what I scraped out of everything

Only about 5 steps in dismantling the pump would highly recommend doing it on a decently old bike, there is bound to be loads of stuff there from over the years..

Now a question.. in the first picture there, you see the two little spouts, one had petrol piss out of it when I turned the tank the wrong way and the other has had nothing come through and is full of rusty looking ****

What should the rusty one be doing and where would I go about pushing a pipe cleaner through from the other side and should I replace the hose that connects to that on the bike as that is full of rusty **** too?

One is an overflow and the other is a breather.
There should be be a hose on each one.
Can you blow through it to see if it is free?

TeaBagMania · 12-03-2017 03:34PM

stewygriffin;102893102
Been googling the problem and it seems that it could be either a failing starter motor or else a dodgey gear position sensor.

Obviously something to do with thermal expansion, my money is on the gear position sensor or the wiring too it.
How does the starter motor sound\work when the engine is cold, strong and healthy?

The "Today I did something to my bike" thread

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