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Detailing chat

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,690 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    You might consider adding Carpro Erasor, Give the whole van a wipedown prior to application of reload ?
    Also
    I notice you ordered Carpro Perl?
    Excellent stuff for engin bay. Interior plastics. ( I would dilute if using on dash )

    Do NOT use it on the tyres. Get something else for those.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,747 ✭✭✭traco


    Carpro Perl, I was going to use that on the bumpers and side trim. Its black plastic / rubber and seemed to be the product to protect it also unless there is an alternative?

    Do I need both Reset and Erasor? What about the de Iron stuff, is that fall out remover the same or should I replace that with one of the Iron X products? Are you better staying with a single brand for all in terms of optimizing compatibility or does it matter?

    There's so many products that I could really do with an idiots guide to this stuff.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    CarPro IronX Snow Soap is pretty much a once off application through a lance, so will work out very pricey.
    Korrosol is a very good product also - getting a bit more for your money too.
    Maybe change the CG's Chubby Microfiber to a Microfiber Madness Crazy Pile, a bit pricey, but its quite large, and Id cut it into two sections, and it will be perfect for buffing the Reload.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    traco wrote: »
    Are you better staying with a single brand for all in terms of optimizing compatibility or does it matter?

    There is no need to stick to product from the same brand when doing things like washing, de-tarring, de-ironing, claying.
    But when applying products in layers, for example; hand polish, glaze, wax, then, as a rule of thumb, its best to stick to one brand, as they'll have been designed to work well together. Mixing products here may not work so well; maybe someone else has tried it in the past and works well, then by all means, but so as not to cause a possible issue, stick to the same.

    In your case, washing with Reset, will ensure the surface isnt going to have any additives, so the Reload will work without issue as you arent layering anything underneath.


  • Subscribers Posts: 6,408 ✭✭✭conzy


    I went mad doing the CarPro stuff on the car to the point that I have used dlux and reload in the arch liners and calipers :D

    Big update coming soon in the other thread


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,747 ✭✭✭traco


    Cool - changes made. Good to go??
    detailshed02_19-07-2016_zpswevya37l.png


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Remove the Chemical Guys Chubby, unless you plan to use it for buffing the PERL on the plastics or similar! ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    conzy wrote: »
    I went mad doing the CarPro stuff on the car to the point that I have used dlux and reload in the arch liners and calipers :D

    Best get on top of it when you can, while the car is fresh! Good work!

    How are you finding the products? I suppose you'll only be basing the decision based on prep and application; and further down the line when the benefits become more apparent would be a better time to ask!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,755 ✭✭✭ianobrien


    Curran wrote: »
    Yes, there would be no issues with graphics or coloured plastics, nor glass, perspex, etc.

    Reload offers very good hydrophobic properties, better than the Collinite. Cant give personal feedback on Reload, as I only applied it recently to my car, but they say up to 6 months - even if it were only 3-4 months, its so easy to apply, it would only take a matter or minutes to top it up. Also, it can be applied to a wet car...so the other day when I used it, I finished washing it, and used it almost like a drying aid. A tip Id give, if you go for it, is to have two buffing cloths - one for lifting the initial product on the panel, and a 2nd to buff it to a perfect finish, as it can leave slight hazing if buffed with a cloth that has become quite saturated with the product. And best to wash it with a shampoo with no gloss enhancers, etc, such as CarPro's Reset.
    Purely for ease of application, even if durability wasnt quite up to Collinite (though I would say it will be similar) it is worth giving it a try. And a little goes a long way. Literally a misting is all that is needed.

    Thanks. I reckon I'll give it a try when I've the bottle of Collinite used.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,690 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    conzy wrote: »
    I went mad doing the CarPro stuff on the car to the point that I have used dlux and reload in the arch liners and calipers :D

    Big update coming soon in the other thread

    LOL
    I did the same
    Arch liners
    Plastics in engine bay and boot
    Well worth it though.
    Arch liners never seem to stay dirty.
    Must give the engine bay its first blast down this week actually.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,747 ✭✭✭traco


    Curran wrote: »
    Remove the Chemical Guys Chubby, unless you plan to use it for buffing the PERL on the plastics or similar! ;)

    Done and I will use it for the external plastics, not worth worrying about €5 in the overall context of the order.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,677 ✭✭✭ronnie3585


    vectra wrote: »
    I notice you ordered Carpro Perl?
    Excellent stuff for engin bay. Interior plastics. ( I would dilute if using on dash )

    Do NOT use it on the tyres. Get something else for those.

    Any reason you advise against this? There are some glowing reviews online of layering 1:1 Perl/water on tyres.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Vectra had an issue where his tyres turned brown after they got wet. CarPro acknowledged that there was a slight change in the formulation that after testing did produce a browning discolouration, and were working on changing the formula to resolve this, or go back to the original. After my own research, I'd seen a few cases of it occur, but in Vectra's case, it was the most extreme change I'd seen.....dont blame him for not wanting to use it on the tyres again, as it was pretty bad. However, Ive also seen plenty of glowing recommendations for it as a tyre dressing.
    This reminds me to follow up with them to see if the formula has since been revised!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,677 ✭✭✭ronnie3585


    Thanks for the info! I'll stick to the Megs Endurance:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,845 ✭✭✭Noccy_Mondy


    While ye're on about arches, anything else good for them, mine always look brown, even after apc. Take from the finished look


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Turns out CarPro went back to the old formulation 3 months ago! Happy days....can go back to recommending it to folk, when the new batch arrives, as Id avoided recommending it on tyres, based on Vectra's experience!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    While ye're on about arches, anything else good for them, mine always look brown, even after apc. Take from the finished look

    Any dressing will darken them - the thing is, unlike tyres, they wont suffer sling - so you can use anything really, from water based, gel based, etc. The only thing is you'd want something fairly durable give the abuse the arches take!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,845 ✭✭✭Noccy_Mondy


    Yeh, I'd say i've tried everything on them, rain or a puddle takes everything off.

    That said, found some old demon shine wet look tyre stuff, put it on the arches Sunday, still good! Then again, there hasn't been any rain..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Chemical Guys Bare Bones might be for you! ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 853 ✭✭✭edburg


    Curran whats the line up of products per department for car pro??

    I know couple are obvious but I keep seeing delux being mentioned for everything from wheels, tyres rubber window bits etc etc and couple detail sites have it as one product covers all to.


    Just when I had quick smooch about there website it didnt come across as easy to identify which product was what to me, but it was a quick smooch through.


    i.e

    panel wipe down/IPA = CarPro Eraser
    Wax/sealant =
    Polish =
    Interior =
    etc
    etc
    etc


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    edburg wrote: »
    Curran whats the line up of products per department for car pro??

    So the CarPro products are as follows, and the difficult ones to categorize, Ive discussed separately.

    Shampoo – ‘Reset’
    Fallout Remover – ‘IronX, IronX Paste’ (for areas needing extra attention)
    Tar Remover – ‘TarX’
    Drying Towel – ‘Fat BOA’
    Regular MFs – ‘BOAs’
    Snowfoam / Shampoo – ‘IronX SnowSoap’ which can also be used as a Clay Lube
    Clay Lube – ‘Immolube’
    Panel Wipe – ‘Eraser’
    Polish – ‘Fixer’ (cutting) / ‘Reflect’ (finishing); Fixer works by change the cutting ability of the pads
    Water Spot Removal – ‘Spotless’
    Glass Polish – ‘CeriGlass’ used with the ‘Rayon Discs’ if polishing by machine
    Glass Protection – ‘Flyby30 / Flyby Forte’ – Flyby30 the water runs off the windscreen at ~30mph, Forte at ~50mph, but is more durable
    Wheel Protection - 'DLUX', or any of the spray sealants will work too, just not as effective
    Plastics / Trim – ‘PERL’ (Plastic, Engine, Rubber, Leather – is what it stands for), or DLUX (nano protection)
    Interior Cleaning – ‘Inside’
    Fabric Protection – ‘Fabric Coat’
    Leather Protection – ‘Leather Coat’
    Air Purification – ‘SO2Pure’
    Windscreen Fogging Prevention – ‘FogFight’

    Protection of paintwork…
    ‘CQuartz / CQUK’ – nano coating, good for 24 months
    ‘Reload’ – Spray on, buff off protection, good for 6+ months
    ‘HydrO2 / HydrO2Lite’ – Spray on, power wash off, car is protected, good for 3+ months
    ‘HydrO2Foam’ – Snowfoam or Shampoo, power wash off, car is protected, good for 3+ months

    Difficult to categorize.....

    ‘Essence’ – it’s a fine abrasive polish, with semi-permanent fillers and has Quartz in it….in short a Gloss Enhancing Protection product. It is stand alone protection but also the perfect base for either Reload or CQUK. Given its able to work stand alone, you can polish, fill and protect all in one step….usually with detailing products, All-in-One type products, generally don’t perform too well, as its better to do each step separately but this one is in a different league.

    'DLUX' - Yes, this product is capable of being protection for Wheels, Plastic and Trim. Its durable for 12+ months. Its probably a bit counter intuitive to think that a product that darkens and protects trim, is capable of going onto a wheel and not change how it appears....but it does it!


    If someone asked me to only work with one range for the rest of my days, Id have a tough choice between CarPro and Bilt Hamber. CarPro dont do the traditional type paste waxes, etc, but their products are amazing. Bilt Hamber make superb products but dont cover the whole detailing range, such as trim dressings, interior products, etc, they are more about anti-corrosion, rust treatment and protection of painted surfaces. Based on that CarPro would be the range of choice - easy to use, with some very clever products that, even with just two hours to spare every few weeks, you can keep your car looking amazing. Reload, for example, 15 minutes after a wash, like a quick detailer, leaves your paint shiny, hydrophobic and protected for 6 months....simples!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,690 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    Curran wrote: »

    'DLUX' - Yes, this product is capable of being protection for Wheels, Plastic and Trim. Its durable for 12+ months. Its probably a bit counter intuitive to think that a product that darkens and protects trim, is capable of going onto a wheel and not change how it appears....but it does it!

    Something I hadn't thought about as my dlux is beading away fine and appears to be still doing its job.

    If I were to re do them soon as the 12 month mark is coming up.
    Would it be a simple case of
    Clean them
    IronX
    Detar
    Rinse
    Erasor
    dlux ?

    Or should I need to polish off any remaining dlux ( However that would be done??? )


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Well given that you've likely taken extremely good care of it, it could be still good for a few more months, though, given the winter is coming, maybe in the next few weeks is the right time to top it up....as last thing you want is the middle of January for it to show signs of deteriorating.

    Id go through the decontamination steps, wash, wipedown, ensure 100% dry....you know yourself, ideally indoors or a bit to ensure no humidity / moisture will effect the re-coating. Two light coats to ensure that the coating is level when it dries!!

    If there was an easy way to do it, a polish would be ideal (in the same way you'd polish paintwork), but there shouldnt be any issue given that whats on the wheel currently performing well, when you re-apply, you are locking that in so it cant be effected so will continue to perform well. Obviously with paintwork the coating would show signs of perhaps a little wash damage so a polish would be adviced to re-enhance the surface, but wheels wont have the same issue! ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,920 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    Curran wrote: »
    given the winter is coming

    17ob1v.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,880 ✭✭✭shietpilot


    Just looking at the Ford badges on my car, I might give them a quick polish with a 4" pad. They look quite dull and it might improve them a bit :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,845 ✭✭✭Noccy_Mondy


    shietpilot wrote:
    Just looking at the Ford badges on my car, I might give them a quick polish with a 4" pad. They look quite dull and it might improve them a bit


    Ford are, were anyway, replacing worn badges with goodwill on some of the newer stuff ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 853 ✭✭✭edburg


    Curran wrote: »
    So the CarPro products are as follows, and the difficult ones to categorize, Ive discussed separately.

    Shampoo – ‘Reset’
    Fallout Remover – ‘IronX, IronX Paste’ (for areas needing extra attention)
    Tar Remover – ‘TarX’
    Drying Towel – ‘Fat BOA’
    Regular MFs – ‘BOAs’
    Snowfoam / Shampoo – ‘IronX SnowSoap’ which can also be used as a Clay Lube
    Clay Lube – ‘Immolube’
    Panel Wipe – ‘Eraser’
    Polish – ‘Fixer’ (cutting) / ‘Reflect’ (finishing); Fixer works by change the cutting ability of the pads
    Water Spot Removal – ‘Spotless’
    Glass Polish – ‘CeriGlass’ used with the ‘Rayon Discs’ if polishing by machine
    Glass Protection – ‘Flyby30 / Flyby Forte’ – Flyby30 the water runs off the windscreen at ~30mph, Forte at ~50mph, but is more durable
    Wheel Protection - 'DLUX', or any of the spray sealants will work too, just not as effective
    Plastics / Trim – ‘PERL’ (Plastic, Engine, Rubber, Leather – is what it stands for), or DLUX (nano protection)
    Interior Cleaning – ‘Inside’
    Fabric Protection – ‘Fabric Coat’
    Leather Protection – ‘Leather Coat’
    Air Purification – ‘SO2Pure’
    Windscreen Fogging Prevention – ‘FogFight’

    Protection of paintwork…
    ‘CQuartz / CQUK’ – nano coating, good for 24 months
    ‘Reload’ – Spray on, buff off protection, good for 6+ months
    ‘HydrO2 / HydrO2Lite’ – Spray on, power wash off, car is protected, good for 3+ months
    ‘HydrO2Foam’ – Snowfoam or Shampoo, power wash off, car is protected, good for 3+ months

    Difficult to categorize.....

    ‘Essence’ – it’s a fine abrasive polish, with semi-permanent fillers and has Quartz in it….in short a Gloss Enhancing Protection product. It is stand alone protection but also the perfect base for either Reload or CQUK. Given its able to work stand alone, you can polish, fill and protect all in one step….usually with detailing products, All-in-One type products, generally don’t perform too well, as its better to do each step separately but this one is in a different league.

    'DLUX' - Yes, this product is capable of being protection for Wheels, Plastic and Trim. Its durable for 12+ months. Its probably a bit counter intuitive to think that a product that darkens and protects trim, is capable of going onto a wheel and not change how it appears....but it does it!


    If someone asked me to only work with one range for the rest of my days, Id have a tough choice between CarPro and Bilt Hamber. CarPro dont do the traditional type paste waxes, etc, but their products are amazing. Bilt Hamber make superb products but dont cover the whole detailing range, such as trim dressings, interior products, etc, they are more about anti-corrosion, rust treatment and protection of painted surfaces. Based on that CarPro would be the range of choice - easy to use, with some very clever products that, even with just two hours to spare every few weeks, you can keep your car looking amazing. Reload, for example, 15 minutes after a wash, like a quick detailer, leaves your paint shiny, hydrophobic and protected for 6 months....simples!

    Cheers, couple of them were bugging me doing different things. Once I get through my current load of products I thinking moving on to these.

    Bilthamber does rock I agree, be using alot of there anti-corrosion stuff on my resto project.

    Post saved to computer :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,880 ✭✭✭shietpilot


    Ford are, were anyway, replacing worn badges with goodwill on some of the newer stuff ;)

    Available for cars 10 years old or newer! Nice I might investigate into it although I'd say the local dealership is bored of me coming there. At one point I was buying brake bulbs there :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,880 ✭✭✭shietpilot


    Curran, is there any possibility of showing the container sizes on Detailing Shed to see how many litres/millilitres you're getting? I'm looking at Korrosol now and I'm wondering - is it a 1 litre or 500 ml bottle?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,845 ✭✭✭Noccy_Mondy


    shietpilot wrote: »
    Curran, is there any possibility of showing the container sizes on Detailing Shed to see how many litres/millilitres you're getting? I'm looking at Korrosol now and I'm wondering - is it a 1 litre or 500 ml bottle?

    That's a litre bottle


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