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Great advice there. With H iron prices approaching €10 per foot a few first thinning spruce trees are looking very tempting for a shed.
I know they won't last forever, but at least the replacement trees will be growing in the meantime.
Was half thinking the same myself - have some larch trees that feel and are lying in the yard...
Plan was to make posts of em, but when they are fine line straight trees, you’d wonder if you should do something like a shed with them
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Dinzee Conlee wrote: »Was half thinking the same myself - have some larch trees that feel and are lying in the yard...
Plan was to make posts of em, but when they are fine line straight trees, you’d wonder if you should do something like a shed with them
We have a shed roof done in straight trees, the ends were exposed for a long time but no real signs of rot in any of them. one needs replaced because of flashing coming off but still not gone far enough to threaten to collapse. They've been up since the 70's.
I know posts in the ground would have more exposure but a decent whack of any sort of treatment and protecting the joint if they are set in concrete will have them standing 20 years easy at a guess. One idea I saw was to put up block piers say 60-90cm's, have a plate made to fix to the block (or concrete) and the wood. Keeps it up out of the ground and easier to keep an eye for any rot.0 -
We have a shed roof done in straight trees, the ends were exposed for a long time but no real signs of rot in any of them. one needs replaced because of flashing coming off but still not gone far enough to threaten to collapse. They've been up since the 70's.
I know posts in the ground would have more exposure but a decent whack of any sort of treatment and protecting the joint if they are set in concrete will have them standing 20 years easy at a guess. One idea I saw was to put up block piers say 60-90cm's, have a plate made to fix to the block (or concrete) and the wood. Keeps it up out of the ground and easier to keep an eye for any rot.
I have a few old telephone poles lying around as well, so was half thinking I could use them as the uprights.
But, won’t be done this year anyways...
Next year... always next year 0 -
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The genuine european larch will last as long as oak, but anything planted since the 50's is likely to be Japanese larch or a hybrid between the 2. We bought some when a local coilte wood was being cleared, 10 years is all the untreated strainers are lasting.
Have some other genuine european larch in a bog from a tree that was knocked in the 1970's and they're still good. That timber lay on the ground for 30 years before I made stakes out of it. I split it along the trunk instead of sawing it, supposed to be a better way of doing it to help it last longer.
So if you have european larch it will see you out, Japanese larch is crap and should never have been let into this country.
Ours is European - but, the posts are sawn.
Tell me how did you split the tree lengthways?
Edit : I don’t know if it’s so old as planted in the 50s, I would have said 60s or maybe early 70s...
But was always told it was European larch, as the wood was specifically planted for stakes...
Now that’s planning 0 -
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Dinzee Conlee wrote: »Ours is European - but, the posts are sawn.
Tell me how did you split the tree lengthways?
Edit : I don’t know if it’s so old as planted in the 50s, I would have said 60s or maybe early 70s...
But was always told it was European larch, as the wood was specifically planted for stakes...
Now that’s planning
Cut it first into 6 ft lengths, then used wedges and a sledge. Stakes ended up sort of triangular shaped. Got some sawn before and there was a cross grain in some of it and the stakes just split themselves. It's like as if the tree was going around in circles as it grew.
This lad is doing oak, you only need 2 metal wedges, wooden off cuts from pointing a strainer will do as intermediate wedges too once you get it opened up. Takes a bit of time, but the big advantage is you are following the natural grain of the timber instead of cutting through it. This gives you a stronger stake, but it does look as rough as a bear's ar5e.
Will try get you a few pics of the stakes in the bog later on.If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.
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Maybe a car boot sale. Head of a hatchet would do, but wear safety glasses as chips can fly off the head when you hammer them.
Top two pics are larch stakes made this way about 15 years ago. They're in a cutaway bog so would have water lapping around them the odd winter.
Bottom photo was a broken sawn larch stake with a cross grain at 45 deg.If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.
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Was replacing a few posts there earlier, on a fence that was put up maybe late 80s/early 90s
Found a larch post - would have been the top of a tree, with bark on, probably 5 inches or so in width...
Looks shook, but was still sound - drove it again anyways. It’ll last another few years... 0 -
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Dinzee Conlee wrote: »Was replacing a few posts there earlier, on a fence that was put up maybe late 80s/early 90s
Found a larch post - would have been the top of a tree, with bark on, probably 5 inches or so in width...
Looks shook, but was still sound - drove it again anyways. It’ll last another few years...
We've larch post and rail that was put up in the sixties and fencing posts from the seventies.0 -
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