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How to fix hole in wall around double plug

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  • 14-11-2020 3:50pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 6,935 ✭✭✭


    20201114-142813.jpg

    I had an electrician come and install a new 2-socket plug in the wall recently. He had to do a bit of digging which I expected, but it's been left like pictured.

    I'm presuming I can get some sort of Polyfilla or similar to fill the gaps above and below but don't know about the bit between the two sockets.

    Any suggestions about that part, but also what filler I should use?


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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 81,243 ✭✭✭✭Atlantic Dawn
    M


    I'd put masking tape all over the edges of the sockets and then use polyfiller. For the piece between the 2 sockets using a thin metal edge like a ruller run between the existing wall above and below it should allow you to smoothen it out.

    It's a poor way he left it and I'd even say dangerous.


  • Registered Users Posts: 28,081 ✭✭✭✭looksee


    That's a disgraceful piece of work, but while you might finish off with Polyfilla (or similar) you can't just fill into that void, even the bit over the brick will take a couple of applications to get it level. You need to put in some sort of support level with the front edge of the brick then fill forward, but I can't see how you can do a decent job without switching off the circuit and lifting the socket away from the wall so that you can fill to just under the edges of the socket. Maybe cut a template out of strong card or thin ply to create a base to plaster on. A fiddly and not all that easy job if you are not a diy-er.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,333 ✭✭✭J.R.


    I would turn off power to the circuit and disconnect both sockets.
    You can then position the back boxes correctly and level and screw some battens and plasterboard on and fill in around and between both back boxes.
    Then you can plaster over the gaps .
    When dry reconnect the two sockets.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,220 ✭✭✭✭Lex Luthor


    as Roy Keane would say, "Sloppy...!!!"


  • Registered Users Posts: 19,690 ✭✭✭✭Cyrus


    Did he use a spoon ??


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 651 ✭✭✭440Hertz


    That's basically walking off and leaving something half finished. It's a total mess.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,055 ✭✭✭UrbanFret


    Did he give you a cert for that abomination?


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,266 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    UrbanFret wrote: »
    Did he give you a cert for that abomination?

    You would hop around alot of different jobs in the day if you can leave the likes of that behind.
    I wouldnt expect an electrician to leave it perfect but i would expect it left in a condition that would allow a painter to quickly finish it with a quick run of filler.
    Powder joint filler i find great for filling. It sets as fast as you would use it so no hanging around if second hit of filler is needed.


  • Registered Users Posts: 73,384 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    I’d be cutting out a big square of that plasterboard and cutting new holes for the sockets.

    Banging in a load of filler isn’t going to go well. Support the joins with some timber behind it.

    That’s a shocking job and it would make me question the parts of the job that you can’t see.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 651 ✭✭✭440Hertz


    Is that even safe to leave like that - boxes aren't necessarily finger proof behind.

    I'd consider reporting it to Safe Electric / RECI.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,559 ✭✭✭DJIMI TRARORE


    Hope u haven't paid him, that's shocking no pun intended


  • Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I'd fill the bulk of it out with someone hard setting like skimcoat or even sand&cement then finish with something you can sand. Easyfill 60 is my favorite at the moment.


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,280 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    That’s ridiculous, what kind of horse did he arrive on?

    Complete cowboy, hope you didn’t pay him. Don’t see how rust could be signed off.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,387 ✭✭✭glynf


    Really half arsed job.. The fact the front plate of the socket is not supported-especially on the RHS means every time you plug/un-plug you're moving the T&E about (if he didn't wire it in wet string :rolleyes:); I doubt there is a grommet on the box-so over time with movement of the cable there is a good chance you would score the outer insulation, then the core causing a short of tripping the RCD at best.

    I would be giving him a call OP, and insist he sorts it or else you will register a complaint with safe electric.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,201 ✭✭✭Man with broke phone


    Find the two joists eaither side of it and run a stanley down the centre of each of them. Cut out a section and replace the slab.

    Replace with a new section of slab screwing to the joists. Fill the small gaps between old slab and new section with filler. Paint.

    Lad that did that was in over his head.


  • Registered Users Posts: 425 ✭✭Boxcar_Willie


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    I’d be cutting out a big square of that plasterboard and cutting new holes for the sockets.

    Banging in a load of filler isn’t going to go well. Support the joins with some timber behind it.

    That’s a shocking job and it would make me question the parts of the job that you can’t see.

    Good advice .


  • Moderators, Regional Abroad Moderators Posts: 5,374 Mod ✭✭✭✭aido79


    Cyrus wrote: »
    Did he use a spoon ??

    A spoon of dynamite maybe...

    I'd be embarrassed to ask for money if I did a job like that

    OP....What type of wall is it? It looks like red brick with plaster on it. Is that right?
    The circuit will need to be turned off and sockets will need to be taken off to get any kind of proper finish on it and then replace when dry as said already.


  • Registered Users Posts: 33,648 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    My reading of this is you wanted another double socket next to the original double socket on the right .

    This fella absolutely destroyed that job. It's dangerous work leaving it like that . Why ? Because someone has to disconnect all of the ****e he did to fix it. That's not how electrical work should be done.

    I'd have ran him out the door with a fiver. There's no way someone can be remotely proud of that. looks like a lad with no tools and no clue.


  • Registered Users Posts: 28,081 ✭✭✭✭looksee


    Re-slabbing the section of wall with plasterboard would be the way to go, but I don't think that is a plasterboard wall, so not likely to have handy studs. You might be able to chip it squarer though and if the plaster is thick enough, use a piece of plasterboard to fill it and plaster over?


  • Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    You'd be long time looks for joists on a brick wall.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 33,648 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    looksee wrote: »
    Re-slabbing the section of wall with plasterboard would be the way to go, but I don't think that is a plasterboard wall, so not likely to have handy studs. You might be able to chip it squarer though and if the plaster is thick enough, use a piece of plasterboard to fill it and plaster over?

    Plasterboard cutoff and a can of plasterboard spray foam adhesive


  • Registered Users Posts: 724 ✭✭✭Timfy


    That is a ridiculously poor job. As stated above it is a danger to small fingers and what's the point in having a sparks connect it up if the homeowner / decorator has to disconnect everything anyway!

    You will have to remove the socket (which the "electrician" didn't even match up with the existing ie radiused corners v square). Fill the large gaps with tightly balled up mesh or chicken wire, ensuring an overlap with the existing brickwork. Then, finish the job with one of the many available fillers as recommended by the tradesmen above.

    As a final step, rip his name out of your phonebook and destroy it with extreme prejudice!

    No trees were harmed in the posting of this message, however a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,323 ✭✭✭JustAThought


    shocking job OP. Is it affixed to anything at all so that it dosn’t pull away every time you olug in & out something?

    I’d be worried about the work you cannot see tbh.


  • Registered Users Posts: 601 ✭✭✭tvjunki


    Get the socket disconnected by a qualified registered electrician.. Remove the box. Cut out a section of plasterboard around by 40cmx40cm. Fit the piece of plasterboard leaving the cables sticking out through a small hole at the centre of the new socket. You will be able to finish the plasterboard with a bit of filler. Then get your electrician to cut the socket out neatly and fit.

    Do not use a non registered electrician as this will affect your house insurance.


  • Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    tvjunki wrote: »

    Do not use a non registered electrician as this will affect your house insurance.

    Not entirely true

    Minor Electrical Works generally involve the “like for like” replacement of switches, sockets, lighting fittings and/or additions to an existing circuit. The work must be in compliance with the National Wiring Rules. See document CER/13/147 for a definition of Minor Electrical Works.


  • Registered Users Posts: 174 ✭✭mr_cochise


    SuprSi wrote: »
    20201114-142813.jpg

    I had an electrician come and install a new 2-socket plug in the wall recently. He had to do a bit of digging which I expected, but it's been left like pictured.

    I'm presuming I can get some sort of Polyfilla or similar to fill the gaps above and below but don't know about the bit between the two sockets.

    Any suggestions about that part, but also what filler I should use?

    My suggestion from a similar experience.
    Turn off power
    Spray expanding foam to about 1 third to half of depth. Allow to expand and set, probably for a day.
    Next day, cut back any excess foam. With a filling knife, fill with polyfilla generously above level. Leave for another day.
    Sand back filler flush with wall.
    Wipe off dust.
    Paint.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,935 ✭✭✭SuprSi


    Thanks for all the suggestions, I really appreciate it. This is our first house, and this is the first time I've had to pay for an electrician to do any work. He's already been paid, and to be honest, I just assumed that, as he's an electrician, he does the wiring and if some work needs to be tidied up as a result of my ask, it's up to me. I'm disappointed to learn that's not the case and he should've done a better job!

    To answer some of the questions, it's red brick with plasterboard. The left-hand box is not affixed to anything on the right-hand side, which was the bit I was most surprised with immediately afterwards, so it's difficult to plug something in and out (takes 2 hands basically). He is a registered electrician, the work-buddy of the actual electrical I hired who was doing a different bit of work in the house at the same time.

    The guy I hired is due back in a week or 2 to do something else so I'll show it to him and ask his thoughts before I do anything. Thanks again.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 651 ✭✭✭440Hertz


    What I don't get is how anyone, with even a basic concept of how to use tools, could make a hole that big in plasterboard.

    You can neatly cut and drill a box into plasterboard without any fuss at all. There are even tools to do it.

    I'm not an electrician, but I installed boxes for my home network and other things without any kind of disruption to the wall. You just drill four points very neatly and use a small saw to open a perfect rectangle, exactly the size for the box.

    What did he use? A sledge hammer?!

    Also in plasterboard, the box normally used actually is designed for a neatly cut rectangle. It slots in and clamps to the back of the plasterboard as you tighten the screws.

    It shouldn't have been difficult to identify there was a cavity either, all he had to do was remove the other socket and check what was behind it.

    Not only that, but a socket is quite cheap and he left you with two mismatched wall plates.

    Anyone with any kind of aesthetic sense would have put in a matching pair - not that it matters much with the state of that job!

    I find the continental approach to this problem -- sooooooooo much easier! The back boxes are all round. For a double socket, there's just two round back boxes with a linkage.

    To drill the holes, you have a back box core drill bit that cuts a perfect hole everytime without any messing.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,104 ✭✭✭Tails142


    As above, there is no need to disturb the plasterboard like that. I have used a simple oscillating tool to cut a neat rectangle in the plasterboard.

    The fact the back box isn't even held on the right hand side means this isn't even a safe install. There shouldn't be any movement in the socket. I'd be questioning what the wiring looks like.

    Cut the power and screw off the two screws on the faceplate, fold it down and take some photos of the wiring for us. I bet it's rough.


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