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New warmflow oil condenser boiler keeps cutting out

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    #62
    John.G
    Registered Users Posts: 3,466 ✭✭✭John.G


    Don't think it has tripped on the hi limit stat, the boiler only runs for a few minutes and then cuts out, the op was shown how to vent air from the boiler by opening its PRV, it might point to faulty pump or maybe a faulty stat even with a new boiler.
    Normally a oil fired boiler doesn't have pump overrun on shutdown so if/when all zones shut down while the boiler is firing, the boiler and the pump both stop, the water temperature will rise due to heat soak but will not reach the hi limit stat setting of ~ 110/113C.


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    #63
    corkgsxr
    Registered Users Posts: 3,404 ✭✭✭corkgsxr


    meercat wrote: »
    Where’s the pump actually connected to. My money is that’s it’s only pumping when the boiler is firing causing the high limit stat to trip on shutdown. Either way get the installer back out as others have said

    That's a very good point.


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    #64
    John.G
    Registered Users Posts: 3,466 ✭✭✭John.G


    Yes, it would be foolish to discount any possibility, even if the pump was wired to run only with the boiler, in the morning with a cold start it shouldn't make any difference as the boiler will run continuously for 20 or 30 minutes before cut out, it would certainly make a difference after this as the boiler (and pump) would then only re fire depending on how long it took for the boiler temperature to fall by ~ 10C due to radiation and/or maybe some gravity circulation depending on the system pipework.
    It will be interesting to see the cause.


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    #65
    CoBo55
    Registered Users Posts: 8,769 ✭✭✭CoBo55


    John.G wrote: »
    Yes, it would be foolish to discount any possibility, even if the pump was wired to run only with the boiler, in the morning with a cold start it shouldn't make any difference as the boiler will run continuously for 20 or 30 minutes before cut out, it would certainly make a difference after this as the boiler (and pump) would then only re fire depending on how long it took for the boiler temperature to fall by ~ 10C due to radiation and/or maybe some gravity circulation depending on the system pipework.
    It will be interesting to see the cause.

    He would feel the rads heating up during the warm up and he has said repeatedly that high limit stat hasn't been tripped when he checks. Pump is kaput or there's a bad connection to it. Simply putting his hand on it would let him know if it's still running ( as was said earlier).


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    #66
    needtoknowasap
    Registered Users Posts: 45 ✭needtoknowasap


    Pump seems to have been the problem it has been replaced and flying since. Thanks for all your help.


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    #67
    John.G
    Registered Users Posts: 3,466 ✭✭✭John.G


    Glad to hear you are sorted, for future reference. do those 3 indicating LEDs (still) go out a few seconds after pressing the mode button?.


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    #68
    CoBo55
    Registered Users Posts: 8,769 ✭✭✭CoBo55


    needtoknowasap wrote: »
    Pump seems to have been the problem it has been replaced and flying since. Thanks for all your help.

    Thanks for the update, glad you're sorted. Some ball ache from the missus when there's heating problems, a warm house is a happy house :D:D


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    #69
    needtoknowasap
    Registered Users Posts: 45 ✭needtoknowasap


    John.G wrote: »
    Glad to hear you are sorted, for future reference. do those 3 indicating LEDs (still) go out a few seconds after pressing the mode button?.

    It was replaced with a different brand pump so doesn't have the lights


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    #70
    corkgsxr
    Registered Users Posts: 3,404 ✭✭✭corkgsxr


    Top job. I reiterate not a fan of dab


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    #71
    John.G
    Registered Users Posts: 3,466 ✭✭✭John.G


    If mounted above the boiler like the previous pump then it will be a good test for it, whatever make/model, as the temperature up there on my admittedly 15 year old Firebird is 70/90C whereas at the side of the boiler where I have the pump mounted is 30/35C.


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    #72
    CoBo55
    Registered Users Posts: 8,769 ✭✭✭CoBo55


    John.G wrote: »
    If mounted above the boiler like the previous pump then it will be a good test for it, whatever make/model, as the temperature up there on my admittedly 15 year old Firebird is 70/90C whereas at the side of the boiler where I have the pump mounted is 30/35C.

    It definitely seems to be a very strange way to place a pump.


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    #73
    corkgsxr
    Registered Users Posts: 3,404 ✭✭✭corkgsxr


    John.G wrote: »
    If mounted above the boiler like the previous pump then it will be a good test for it, whatever make/model, as the temperature up there on my admittedly 15 year old Firebird is 70/90C whereas at the side of the boiler where I have the pump mounted is 30/35C.


    I always mount them at the back or side. Put a vent on top then


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    #74
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,213 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    MI's have it on top.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



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    #75
    DGOBS
    Hosted Moderators Posts: 3,496 ✭✭✭DGOBS


    Lot of the system boilers have it there too.


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    #76
    John.G
    Registered Users Posts: 3,466 ✭✭✭John.G


    Are these fairly new MIs? because all the older type oil boilers (heat pacs anyway) had the flow and return coming from the side of the boiler (where the water is!) and then turned down before exiting the heat pac.


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    #77
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,213 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    John.G wrote: »
    Are these fairly new MIs? because all the older type oil boilers (heat pacs anyway) had the flow and return coming from the side of the boiler (where the water is!) and then turned down before exiting the heat pac.

    I haven't come across one of those yet.
    I have however came across an odd one with circulator on top. Not sure but I think they had an insulation panel between it and boiler top, similar to what you find in walls of kabin Pacs

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



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    #78
    corkgsxr
    Registered Users Posts: 3,404 ✭✭✭corkgsxr


    I'd say it's more put there as nowhere else to put it without blocking access panels.

    Firebird and grant have space at the back


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    #79
    John.G
    Registered Users Posts: 3,466 ✭✭✭John.G


    That Dab 2 states max environmental temperature of 40C & max liquid temp of 110C & temp class TF 110
    Grundfof state 55C/95C & temp class TF95


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    #80
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,213 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    John.G wrote: »
    That Dab 2 states max environmental temperature of 40C & max liquid temp of 110C & temp class TF 110
    Grundfof state 55C/95C & temp class TF95

    Everyone seems to be putting in a get out clause now. 40 degrees even in a hotpress is a ridiculous limit.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



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    #81
    John.G
    Registered Users Posts: 3,466 ✭✭✭John.G


    Heat Pacs get fairly cosy though, I suppose all one can do is install them in the coolest place possible as they are the only show in town now.


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    #82
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,213 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    John.G wrote: »
    Heat Pacs get fairly cosy though, I suppose all one can do is install them in the coolest place possible as they are the only show in town now.

    https://touch.boards.ie/thread/2057522449/1/#post97732871

    Here's a post from when I measured the temperature inside the casing.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



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    #83
    John.G
    Registered Users Posts: 3,466 ✭✭✭John.G


    The ABV (used in conjunction with pump overrun) shown in that attachment raises another problem because of these "smart" circulating pumps, it was relatively easy to set them up with the traditional circ pumps as the pump head rose/rises with reduced flow but all the smart pumps don't work like this because even fixed speed mode (constant curve) on these maintain a constant head for a portion of their so called constant curve mode. I wonder has anyone fitted a normally open motorised valve like a Honeywell 4043B which would be wired to the zone valve end switches orange wires, it would then close when any zone valve opens and would only open when all zone valves shut off.


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